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Progressive Spring Install


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PROGRESSIVE INSTALL

1983VR

BY JACK (justjack) CHALAIS

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive06.jpg

The front suspension of my 83VR was continually bottoming out due to some very old fork springs. It was time to replace them. Following everyone's advice I decided to install Progressive springs. Here's a blow by blow description of how the job went.

Before starting put the bike on it's center stand and place something under the frame front to keep the front tire elevated off the ground.

You also need to bleed off any air pressure in the fork tubes using you class computer or Schrader valve.

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive05.jpg

This is what we needed to remove before getting to the top of the fork tubes

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive07.jpg

Step 1. Remove the center cover by prying the screw cover off.

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive08.jpg

The cover is held on by end tabs that can be gently pushed in and upward.

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive09.jpg

Unscrew the hold down screw and expose the top of the of the steering column.

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive10.jpg

The next step is to remove the grills on either side of the steering opening. Do the left side first as it is easier and will give you an idea of how the tabs snap in. The right side with the emergency switch is more stubborn, but with persistence it can be messaged out.

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive11.jpg

You do not need to disconnect the switch, just lay the entire assembly to the side.

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive12.jpg

Next remove the handle bar nut and center spanner. Hint: a 1 1/8th inch socket will fit the nuts. We borrowed this one from a neighbor. The half inch breaker bar is ours. Beats the heck out of a crescent wrench.

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive13.jpg

The compression screws also need to be loosened.

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive14.jpg

Before
removing your bars off the spline, mark both the top of the spline and the bar as a reference when reassembling. We used a spring loaded center punch, but a nail will do. If you always wanted to readjust your bars but it was too much trouble...here's your chance when putting it back together.

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive18.jpgStick the bars back onto the splines to get them out of the way and still be able to turn the front fork.http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive15.jpg

This is a picture of our secret weapon. To remove the fork caps you will need a 17mm hex key. The only place I could locate one was Sears. I cut off a piece of the long end and soldered it into an old 17mm 6-point socket, 3/8 drive. Makes life a lot easier, and helps not to strip threads when putting the caps back on. Another suggestion is to locate a 17mm by 6" bolt and a couple of nuts to jamb together on the end and use the head to remove the cap.

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive17.jpg

Here's 'the weapon' in action.

http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive19.jpgThis is what we found after unscrewing the right side fork cap. Notice the aluminum slag on the tube housing. Not a good sign. The left side was even worse. Inspect the fork caps for damaged threads, and if you find them call your local Yamaha shop to see if they have any in stock. A new plug runs about $27 bucks.http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive21.jpgNext remove the drain screw and drain the fork oil. We used plastic ice cream tubs and they worked great. It's also an excuse to go get more 'cookies and cream'....http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive22.jpgThe next hi-tech tool you'll need is this very expensive spacer and spring extractor fashioned from an old coat hanger. Works great to remove those items it was designed to remove.http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/IMGP2285.jpgWe went ahead and cut one of the spacers supplied by Progressive in half. Using one half for each fork tube. It might have made the fork a little less stiff, but we felt that we still had the CLASS to adjust the final ride.http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/IMGP2280.jpgHere's a pic of the parts you will no longer need. The OEM spacers and the OEM springs.

Later: When we tried to reinstall the fork tube plugs we ran into a bit of a problem. The plugs had been removed previously and two of three of the starting threads were in pretty bad shape. This caused a lot of problems getting them back in. To lessen the amount of pressure needed to compress the progressives we cut the PVC spacer in half. We also placed the factory spacer end fittings (washers) into the end of the PVC spacer. It just made sense to eliminate any future wearing of the spacer caused by spring action. (forgot to take a pic and I'm not pulling them out just to take a pic.) Side by side the progressives are much longer than the OEM's, and the coil is a heavier gauge. Once we got the plugs to finally re-thread, reassembling was pretty quick. We found that the best way to get the plugs to start threading was use our secret weapon, along with an 18" 3/8ths extension mounted on a ratchet and use short quick burst strokes to get the plug started. All other attempts didn't work.

Hope this helps a bit, and makes the job a little easier.

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  • 5 weeks later...

The cinch bolts were loosened...see text and pics. You can very easily strip threads off the aluminum caps when trying to screw the caps back into the steel housing of the fork. Under the pressure you need to exert on the cap in order to compress the Progressives to start the cap threads is NOT an easy maneuver. -Jack

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  • 1 month later...

OK I just installed my progressive springs while Pegirae (Blonderoots) watched "Desperate Housewives". Thanks to the great instructions jack provided (Jack I owe you lunch) I was able to remove the undersized 3" too short springs and replace them with my new progressive's in just about an hour. I just took the bike for a test ride and I can't believe the difference in the bike, I can even park it on it's sidestand :cool10::cool10::cool10::cool10::cool10::cool10::cool10::cool10::cool10::cool10::cool10:

 

I found a good used stator on e-bay, should be here anyday and that is the next project, figure it will be cheaper to try a $40.00 stator if that works then great, if not I have a good core to send off for the $280.00 rebuild.

 

Here is a picture of the old spring next to the new progressive spring.

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ALLRIGHT!! No more complainin'.....:) Just curious. Were the OEM spacers still on top of the springs? We were wondering about that because there was so little front end lift.

 

Yep the spacers were there and everything was assembled the way it was supposed to be, just the springs were 3 inches too short! :no-no-no:

 

I'm probably going to give the bike a ride to work today and see how it does but so far I'm pretty happy with the new springs.

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