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Repairing ignition switch


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Nothing bums you out more than purchasing a used vehicle and having it break down a week later, well 9 days. Was out for a blast down the highway last Friday, rolling down the off ramp, hit a pot hole and the bike dies, nothing working but the radio. Called a friend who showed up with some tooling. Check of the fuses showed that they were all good, and power right up to the switch, but nothing out. Trailered the bike to our shop, 3 hours later, got it going again. No problems for the next couple days, and unfortunately my computer was in for service, so no way to read up on the site about the problem. Then on Tuesday, about 15 kms from home, bike just dies, except for the radio. Check of the switch this time did not solve problem, so, trailered her home.

 

Contacted the dealer for a price check on a switch, $288.00, YOU GOT TO BE FRIGGIN KIDDING ME!!!!

 

Got our computer back the next day, straight to Venturerider, and find out that there are a few good posts on the issue. All of them explain how to prevent it, or the emergency repair proceedure to at least drive the bike home. One member even mentioned repairing his switch, but no details. So I thought I'd tackle it myself, and post the repair of the switch for anyone like me, to damn cheap to pay outragious dealer mark-up prices.

 

Started by removing the seat, tank and front frame panels to gain good access to the switch. Had previously noted the rounded off bolt heads, obviously done after assembly, as a anti-theft measure, as the steering lock is part of the switch assembly. Had puzzled over how to remove the bolts, and had read of others using dremels to cut out the weld nuts, or cut slots into the heads. I decided to take a different route, and treated them and broken bolts, and used an extractor set.

 

First - center punch and pilot drill the bolts, then drill them out to the size required for the extractor, I used a 1/4" Snap-on extractor tool. Install tool and remove bolts, I had purchased new bolts to replace the old ones, as they were obviously destroyed when removed.

 

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Second - with the switch now out, I cleaned it with electrical component cleaner. I then removed the 2 philips head screws from the bottom of the assembly. Carefully separate the switch assembly, and make note of the position of the contactor before removing it. With the switch now opened up, the problem was very obvious, the red lead solder joint had failed. I also noted that the lead was dis-coloured and the plate had small cracks around the solder points.

 

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Third - Cleaned solder point with abrasive pad, and applied flux, then re-soldered joint. After cooling, the plate was flipped over and the contacts dressed, prior to re-assembly.

 

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Fourth - Switch assembly was then re-assembled, and before final tightening, an ohm reading was taken in the "ON" position, all leads that were to have continuity did. Philips screws had lock tight applied and were tightened in.

 

Fifth - Re-installed switch onto frame, and terminated all wiring. At this time I installed the "Relay Modification" to prevent any further issues from occurring in the future. However, I did make up a "Emergency By-pass" kit, 2 leads, toggle switch, and cable splice crimps. Placed it in a zip-loc baggie and put it in the right saddle bag, tool kit area, better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it.

 

With all the repairs done, the tank, covers and seat were placed back on the bike, which fired up and ran great, and took off for a 3 hour test ride. All worked out great. Hopefully this will help others tackle the switch issue, providing the plate isn't damaged beyond use, you should be able to salvage the switch.

Edited by Freebird
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