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XVZ1200 Venture


larrydr

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Don't know,, Oh BTW Welcome!!! As I was saying, don't know how tall you are, but if you are over 5'10" you'll be fine. This bike can be a bit top heavy when not moving, but if it's running and tracking right, which most are, you'll fall in love with it. It's maneuverable, nimble enough, powerful and doesn't shake the bones out of the skin they're in. Repairs aren't all that hard, you just need to ask us and we'll send you in all directions,, even the right ones on occasion.

So stick around and enjoy, just remember,: We have fun!!

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Don't know,, Oh BTW Welcome!!! As I was saying, don't know how tall you are, but if you are over 5'10" you'll be fine. This bike can be a bit top heavy when not moving, but if it's running and tracking right, which most are, you'll fall in love with it. It's maneuverable, nimble enough, powerful and doesn't shake the bones out of the skin they're in. Repairs aren't all that hard, you just need to ask us and we'll send you in all directions,, even the right ones on occasion.

So stick around and enjoy, just remember,: We have fun!!

 

Well I am 5ft 6 , I have riding bike all sizes since 1964 ..Here in Manitoba we have to do full mechanical safety inspection ..I took the venture for a 10 minute spin today and found that great was running straight down the highway , but as headed back home I noticed it was a bit difficult in tight corners ... I wants to keep going straight down the road at any speed over 10 kilometers ...Reminds of an old GLWING 1000 in 1980 ...have measured an checked all measurements of steering head and chassis .. I would like to find out I missed something simple ...It seemed to work in a lean type turn , but not in a steering turn ... It does great u-turns on a parking lot ,

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You might find that the steering head bearings could use some lube and adjustment, tire pressure will also play a part in all this.

I always found that doing curves and corners went a whole lot easier by using counter-steering. It is something that needs to be practiced to get well done. Some like to lean the bike to corner, others will fight with it to point it in the direction they want it to go, and then there are those who sit back and coach the bike to do it's own thing by a slight push on the handle bars. First you need to try this on a straight stretch of road, and you need to be going faster than 10mph. Going straight in the middle of your lane, slightly push on the left handle bar and see what the bike does. You would think it would go to the right, seeing as you are trying to point the wheel in that direction, but I think you find that it has a new twist, your bike will actually go left. Now push slightly on the right bar and you'll be back to riding the middle again. In doing this the bike will also attempt to lean a bit into the side you pushing on, so you need to let it do that, don't overdo it and don't stop it, just ride with it.

I'm not saying you don't do this or to give you new information,, just thought it was a good place to remind us.

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I didn't run the 1200 but I can tell you that long distance setups do not like low speeds.

Having said that and if you riding sport then find a lot and try lulling it down and point your knee.

Keep the torque up you may be pleasantly surprised.

Also check the forks are they too stiff or soft? @cowpuc has a couple miles on those he might have a trick or 2, so do many others here they will will chime in soon..

 

Glad you found us

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These bikes do prefer to do their turns by leaning through counter steering rather than manhandling the handle bars which is one of the things I never liked about the goldwings. But once you get onto it and this includes counter balancing the bike in slow turns you will love it. With regards to fighting you in the bends and wanting to go straight I had the same issue and found the steering head bearings were adjusted to tight. you want them as free as possible but with zero bearing lash or play similar to setting up a trailer wheel bearing. If the bearings are dry or worn so that they are binding that can also give you a similar issue. I would start by resetting the bearings to proper bearing lash and if you still have an issue pull, clean and check the bearings. If they look fine repack them and re install them properly.

 

I find the best way to set up the bearings is to follow manufacture spec using a torque wrench, If a torque wrench and/or special wrench is not available, then the next best method in my book, is follow the same procedure you would when setting up tapered wheel bearings such as those used on a trailer wheels.

 

With the front wheel off the ground

1 - tighten bearing while turning handle bars left to right until some drag is felt on handle bars.

2 - back off the nut until loose.

3 - re-tighten until you just reach a point were there is zero lash

4 - back off the nut approx 1/8 of a turn (this can vary from bike to bike) this will leave a bit of lash

5 - tighten the lock nut this should eliminate any lash introduced by backing off the adjusting nut

6 - with the front wheel still off the ground grab the fork at the axle. push and pull, back and forth to feel for any free play (bearing lash) .001" to .005" which is barely noticeable is acceptable but zero lash with no binding is preferred.

 

IF - there is too much lash back off the jam nut and just add a bit to the adjusting nut then tighten the jam nut.

 

ALWAYS keep in mind that what ever you set the adjusting nut to the jam nut will add to it and this is why you do not want to remove all the lash with the adjusting nut alone or the bearing could end up too tight.

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  • 2 months later...
These bikes do prefer to do their turns by leaning through counter steering rather than manhandling the handle bars which is one of the things I never liked about the goldwings. But once you get onto it and this includes counter balancing the bike in slow turns you will love it. With regards to fighting you in the bends and wanting to go straight I had the same issue and found the steering head bearings were adjusted to tight. you want them as free as possible but with zero bearing lash or play similar to setting up a trailer wheel bearing. If the bearings are dry or worn so that they are binding that can also give you a similar issue. I would start by resetting the bearings to proper bearing lash and if you still have an issue pull, clean and check the bearings. If they look fine repack them and re install them properly.

 

I find the best way to set up the bearings is to follow manufacture spec using a torque wrench, If a torque wrench and/or special wrench is not available, then the next best method in my book, is follow the same procedure you would when setting up tapered wheel bearings such as those used on a trailer wheels.

 

With the front wheel off the ground

1 - tighten bearing while turning handle bars left to right until some drag is felt on handle bars.

2 - back off the nut until loose.

3 - re-tighten until you just reach a point were there is zero lash

4 - back off the nut approx 1/8 of a turn (this can vary from bike to bike) this will leave a bit of lash

5 - tighten the lock nut this should eliminate any lash introduced by backing off the adjusting nut

6 - with the front wheel still off the ground grab the fork at the axle. push and pull, back and forth to feel for any free play (bearing lash) .001" to .005" which is barely noticeable is acceptable but zero lash with no binding is preferred.

 

IF - there is too much lash back off the jam nut and just add a bit to the adjusting nut then tighten the jam nut.

 

ALWAYS keep in mind that what ever you set the adjusting nut to the jam nut will add to it and this is why you do not want to remove all the lash with the adjusting nut alone or the bearing could end up too tight.

Keep it Between the Lines And The Rubber Side Down

Thanks Much for this Info ...Have a Great Summer

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Well I am 5ft 6 , I have riding bike all sizes since 1964 ..Here in Manitoba we have to do full mechanical safety inspection ..I took the venture for a 10 minute spin today and found that great was running straight down the highway , but as headed back home I noticed it was a bit difficult in tight corners ... I wants to keep going straight down the road at any speed over 10 kilometers ...Reminds of an old GLWING 1000 in 1980 ...have measured an checked all measurements of steering head and chassis .. I would like to find out I missed something simple ...It seemed to work in a lean type turn , but not in a steering turn ... It does great u-turns on a parking lot ,

 

There is a little bit of a learning curve every time you hop on a different bike, but with your experience, you should have no problems at all adapting to the Venture. As a consolation, I am 5'5" and I have no problems whatsoever riding my '07. The newer SVTCs is just so easy to ride as well...ride as much as you can, to keep your riding skills up to par. :7_6_3[1]:

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