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Can't start my 83


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ok I just disconnected the cable from the relay to the starter and put battery directly to starter stud and the starter turned very slowly. so I guess I have to take the starter off and clean it up? can I get that out by just undoing those two bolts without taking the rad and header pipes off?

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I'm hoping someone can help me out. For the past couple of years my starter has been really slow but only when warm and I see by looking on here that is a pretty common problem. Yesterday I went out and it fired right up but it died because i didn't choke it in time. When i went to restart when i hit the starter button nothing happened and the neutral light and everything else electric went out. I took a multi meter and put black on neg batt post and red on the starter relay that the batt cable hooks to and had power there (still no electric anywhere) then i put the red on the other side of the relay and when i turned the key it had power. Not sure but isn't that one only supposed to have power when you hit the starter switch? And can anyone tell me what to check next if that is the way the relay is supposed to act

 

I just finished a starting issue like that ...Ended up replacing the power cable from the the battery to the start relay and the cable to the starter ...It got better but it still poor with a warm engine ... I pulled the starter and found a bad bearing at the brush end of the starter .I set the armature in penetrating fluid ( bearing) at the brush end of the starter for about 30 minutes ... The set the starter armature bearing end in light motor oil for a hour ....Problem solved .

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I still haven't been able to get the bike started to get over there and finish the van. I'm hoping I can get the starter out without having to take off the rad and the pipe, as you know I just recently got that cooling issue fixed hoping not to have to mess with it since it's perfect now. If I can i'll try what larry said or if a xvz1300 starter will fit a xvz1200 buy that

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It depends on what year the XVZ1300 starter is as to whether you want it. If you are going to buy a starter make sure it is the 4 brush starter. The one you are looking at will fit but a 4 brush is a munch better starter and will cost about the same money. Most sellers will have no clue if they have a 2 or 4 brush and if they find out they may also raise their price. everything after a certain year is a 4 brush, I do not remember exactly what year the 4 brush started.

 

But then I am cheap, I would take apart what I have and clean it out and do the ground mod and try that before I spend anything.

 

When I did my starter I was doing a lot of other work at the same time. You do not have to remove the radiator but I think you will have to loosen the mounts so you can push it over a bit, you do not have to drain it. I believe you need to remove one of the exhaust pipes but they come off pretty easy, 2 bolts to the head and 1 clamp at the bottom.

 

While you are cleaning the starter, make sure to clean the mounting surfaces on the starter and the block real good as they are your ground path.

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It depends on what year the XVZ1300 starter is as to whether you want it. If you are going to buy a starter make sure it is the 4 brush starter. The one you are looking at will fit but a 4 brush is a munch better starter and will cost about the same money. Most sellers will have no clue if they have a 2 or 4 brush and if they find out they may also raise their price. everything after a certain year is a 4 brush, I do not remember exactly what year the 4 brush started.

 

But then I am cheap, I would take apart what I have and clean it out and do the ground mod and try that before I spend anything.

 

When I did my starter I was doing a lot of other work at the same time. You do not have to remove the radiator but I think you will have to loosen the mounts so you can push it over a bit, you do not have to drain it. I believe you need to remove one of the exhaust pipes but they come off pretty easy, 2 bolts to the head and 1 clamp at the bottom.

 

While you are cleaning the starter, make sure to clean the mounting surfaces on the starter and the block real good as they are your ground path.

 

I'm pretty cheap myself I went out to pull the starter and clean it. Thought I had scrounged up enough tools around here to do the job. My tools are all in my van which I just put a piston in, but yes you do have to take the pipe off the starter bolt won't get by the thermostat housing if you don't. My allen wrenches are in my van. I got this stuff called berryman's chem dip to clean the piston I got from pick and pull, that stuff did wonders, it had a lot of carbon on it and was black as could be, but it came out looking like brand new. Do you think I should dip the starter in that stuff? If cleaning everything and doing that ground mod doesn't work I will look around for a 4 brush, but after googling for starters that one at db electric for 86 dollars is going to be pretty tough to beat price wise. I'm cheap by necessity, don't make a lot of money. While I have it out I might as well do that dingy mod (if I can find that post again) and put new cable on it. Thanks for the help. Going to get to googling and see if I can find out what year the 4 brushers started

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I would not use harsh chemicals on the armature, You do not want to damage the insulation on windings. The brush dust is not hard to get off, simple alcohol or electronics cleaner will clean it fine.

 

It has been a while since I was into a starter, I dont remember the order it comes apart, but you do want to take out the brush plate for cleaning.

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Yep.. I am in agreement with Fool on this one.. I would definitely not use Chem Dip on the starter,, I tested a bunch of carb cleaners and found Chem Dip absolutely second to none for that purpose (and like you Cappy,, also use for carbon clean up when other methods just dont work = stuff rocks) but I would strongly suggest not getting that chemical anywhere near those windings - it would probably not be real friendly to the varnish coating therein.. I always like to just blow out the amature, inner starter, brush plate really well with compressed air first as that entire area is always extremely dry any way and the removes fairly easily. For further cleaning IMHO, a nylon cleaning brush (even a clean/dry tooth brush works great) is the best route cause you really do not want to scratch the coils, again forced air to assist.. Electronic cleaner is good assist too.. I like to double check the bearings and brushes before closing it and always sneak/work some synthetic bicycle chain lube into the bearings. Also, best to replace the oring seal found on the mount nose too..

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in case you guys are wondering what happened. cleaning the starter didn't work, it was shot so I ordered the one from dgelectrics cause there web page always says free same day shipping if ordered by 3:00pm, so I ordered it like around 6:00pm thinking ok it will be same day on tomorrows before 3 list, but it didn't work that way it should finally be here later today or tomorrow. it is at least in Sacramento now, they should add that to their website huh. order before 3pm free same day shipping, order after 3pm free 1 week shipping.

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