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Rear cylinders hot


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My rear two cylinder's exhaust pipes are quite a bit hotter than the front 2 on my 2006 your deluxe with 14,000 miles. Just noticed this and wondered if it was normal for a particular reason or something else. Bike runs fine. Thanks for any info.

 

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These V4 will seem to run just fine on only 3 cyl, so maybe you are running 2and 2 halfs?

Make sure to get the temp from the same area, distance from the heads, to get an accurate reading.

Seems like you might be a bit short on fuel in the front 2, run some carb cleaner through the system, just use a 1/4 tank and a heavy dose, run and let it sit for a time and then do it again. Worst come to worst, you might have a deep cleaning job to do.

Bike doesn't have a lot of miles for it's year, so it probably sat a lot, which could mean plugged carbs, but cleaner might do it.

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These V4 will seem to run just fine on only 3 cyl, so maybe you are running 2and 2 halfs?

Make sure to get the temp from the same area, distance from the heads, to get an accurate reading.

Seems like you might be a bit short on fuel in the front 2, run some carb cleaner through the system, just use a 1/4 tank and a heavy dose, run and let it sit for a time and then do it again. Worst come to worst, you might have a deep cleaning job to do.

Bike doesn't have a lot of miles for it's year, so it probably sat a lot, which could mean plugged carbs, but cleaner might do it.

Had them rebuilt last fall. Plus I just synced all 4 just a few weeks ago. The temp im seeing is directly on the pipe itself. The fronts are way cooler than the rears. But it is the same on both sides, which leads me to believe it might be normal?

 

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Had them rebuilt last fall. Plus I just synced all 4 just a few weeks ago. The temp im seeing is directly on the pipe itself. The fronts are way cooler than the rears. But it is the same on both sides, which leads me to believe it might be normal?

 

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Syncing carbs has really nothing to do with whether it runs well or not,,, it only has to do with a balanced engine, for the syncing only helps you adjust the throttle plate opening, that's all. Now on the other hand, if the plates are totally closed at idle? then you might find cool pipes, but you would have discovered that when you sync'd them and you would find that it would be hard to start.

Now on the re-build? Not all re-builds are rebuilt, some are just hot-shot cleaned and the only one that got soaked is the owner of the carbs. Check the ignition to make sure you have constant spark, then you might even check compression, but my guess is that it's fuel related.

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Syncing carbs has really nothing to do with whether it runs well or not,,, it only has to do with a balanced engine, for the syncing only helps you adjust the throttle plate opening, that's all. Now on the other hand, if the plates are totally closed at idle? then you might find cool pipes, but you would have discovered that when you sync'd them and you would find that it would be hard to start.

Now on the re-build? Not all re-builds are rebuilt, some are just hot-shot cleaned and the only one that got soaked is the owner of the carbs. Check the ignition to make sure you have constant spark, then you might even check compression, but my guess is that it's fuel related.

I work at a vocational center teaching Collision Repair. Our auto mechanics instructor rebuilt them for me. Completely stripped, soaked and rebuilt with new kits.

 

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Then I would do a compression check, even if just to eliminate that. I would warm the engine and then pull a plug wire from the front to seeif it makes a difference, and then the one from the back to notice the difference between the two, Do that on both sides. Could be you have a restricted ignition issue.

Or you might not have the carbs sitting tightly in their boots. Often we put the carbs into their boots, check to make sure they are in place, tighten them in and close er up. but they do have a tendency to pop out on occasion, then you would have false air coming in and have a lean issue.

You could also check the air mixture screws, that might be a something to keep things lean as well.

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I have a first Gen 83 so not same model as yours, but for me, especially first fire up in spring, it can be temperamental. This spring my front right was not firing, the exhaust temp was colder colder. I took plug out, obviously soaked with gas and fouled. I then reseated my plug wire in the boot, reassembled, and fired up and ran perfect. If you are pretty sure about getting gas (and pulling the plugs will confirm that because if they are getting gas and not firing, they will be wet and need cleaning) I would reset the boots. (I'm not sure about your Gen, but mine is a simple unscrew the boot assembly, clip 3/16" off spark plug wire tip, and reassemble).

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I have a first Gen 83 so not same model as yours, but for me, especially first fire up in spring, it can be temperamental. This spring my front right was not firing, the exhaust temp was colder colder. I took plug out, obviously soaked with gas and fouled. I then reseated my plug wire in the boot, reassembled, and fired up and ran perfect. If you are pretty sure about getting gas (and pulling the plugs will confirm that because if they are getting gas and not firing, they will be wet and need cleaning) I would reset the boots. (I'm not sure about your Gen, but mine is a simple unscrew the boot assembly, clip 3/16" off spark plug wire tip, and reassemble).
The bike runs fine with no dead cylinders. But it was one of the first rides of the spring though.

 

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