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Brake Pad Break-in


cwtart

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Just rebuilt a pair of R1 goldspot calipers to be added to my 2008 RSV. Used EBC FA252HH Double-H Sintered Front Brake Pads.

 

Question #1 : what do I do to prepare the rotors for the new pads? Cleaning, etc.?

 

Question #2 : many opinions on the internet about bedding or breaking-in new brake pads - what are the general recommendations from you guys on break-in?

 

Thanks.

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Cleaning the rotors just before pad install is always a good thing.

Break-in time will greatly vary with how grooved the rotors are. It would be nice to resurface the rotors every-time but I don't think that happens all that often on bike, although on cars it seems to be the norm to install new rotors with new pads. Somethin don't make much sense there eh? So to answer your question though, I would expect braking wouldn't be the same for at least 100 miles with lots of braking and some good hard braking toward the end of the trip(s).

Same goes for new tires, they need to scuff up some to be safe.

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Most rotors tend to develop a shoulder along the outside and inside edge, usually around 1/8" to 3/16" wide. This can keep the pad from fully seating against the main face and will reduce braking until it wears in. I have actually had it so bad that breaking was less than 50% until the pads were broken in How I deal with it is to grind a bevel along all four corners of the pads. Just enough for the pad to clear the raised shoulder and fully seat against the rotor. Initial pre-break-in braking is much better and actual break in time is reduced significantly. Keep in mind that rotors also have a minimum thickness specification.

 

Also contrary to some beliefs never burn your brakes in with doing hard stops. All this does is overheat and glaze your pads and even the surface of your rotors, as indicated by blue spots or worse a mirror like finish. Just let them wear in through normal riding and breaking. The time frame difference is barely noticeable and you avoid unnecessary overheating of your pads.

 

The only exception to this is racing pads and rotors as they are designed to function at extreme temperatures and some actually need to get good and hot first to perform to the best of their ability. Obviously not recommended for street use since street riding does not generate the same operating temperatures as racing does. In other words don't fall for the idea that if its good for the track it has to be better for the road. NOT always true. In actuality just the reverse is often more likely. You need to use the pads and rotors that are designed and matched to the riding conditions.

 

Another consideration is if your pulling a trailer a lot you may want to give some thought to a higher temperature rated set of pads. Keep also in mind that pads which last longer also tend to introduce more wear on the rotor as well as reduce braking power until they warm or even heat up. I have even come across pads that where almost useless in the rain until they where warmed and dried up first through a few brake applications when you 1st hit the road.

Edited by saddlebum
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