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FIXED! CLASS compressor is not oilless.


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You can see my earlier struggles in the replacing desiccant thread I revived. The trouble being a newb is that I don't know what to search for, but some friendly advise put me on the right track. I was having the issue of not getting the rear to put out more than 45 PSI. Found a thread that said to clean the solenoids, I did that and found some metal FOD in two of them. replaced the system and still couldn't build pressure above 40 PSI. My mind was thinking that its a week compressor considering I kept getting the E2 Error. Took the compressor apart and it was dry as a bone sans some lithium grease that probably shouldn't be in there. Oiled it up with some compressor grease and Boom! Pressure builds like I assume it should and the compressor runs much quieter. Low Med and Hi auto work now and Manual I was able to reach 81 PSI.

 

also to note, it was obvious I was not the first one to take this apart as most of the screw heads were slightly stripped. I believe the bolt head between the intake and output of the compressor is for oil, but I couldn't find any info on that and mine would not budge, to reduce further issue It was easier to take the compressor side off.

 

DAMN! I meant to Edit the Title! It's not oilless SO I THINK! I'm NO EXPERT. I JUST FOUND IT WORKS BETTER OILED.

Edited by Pasta Burner
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There is oil in the sump, where the crank connects to the piston rod and pin.

I refurbished mine by cleaning the cylinder, soaking the ring till it floated correctly, and then put a swipe of silicone grease added about 1/2 oz of gear oil reassembled and dats all folks;)

Edited by Patch
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There is oil in the sump, where the crack connects to the piston rod and pin.

I refurbished mine by cleaning the cylinder, soaking the ring ring till it floated correctly, and then but a swipe of silicone grease added about 1/2 oz of gear oil reassembled and dats all folks;)

 

 

I didn’t put near that much in, but a hearty coating of all parts and seals.

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