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Thread: coolant blowout

  1. #16
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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    Here's a part breakdown. Find the p/n, google it. You'll find what you are looking for.
    https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oe.../radiator-hose


    or the Master Part Breakdown
    https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oe...-xvz12tk-parts

  2. Likes Patch liked this post
  3. #17
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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    Quote Originally Posted by luvmy40 View Post
    I'd venture to say the problem is 37 year old rubber heater hose. You said your temp gauge was in the normal range and the blowout did not burn you severely. I'd replace the T-stat just because and all the rubber hoses, cause they're old, ya' know.

    $0.02 YMMV
    well I got the old hose off, but I think I have a problem. I was working the hose clamp up using a pair of needle nose while a friend was holding the light for me, he reached down and pulled up on the hose and if came off with a really thin piece of either aluminum or copper where the hose was clamped still attached to the hose. Now there is just a hole in the top of the head with no place to clamp the new hose. Did I break off a piece? Capital Yamaha didn't have that particular hose and said they couldn't order one. Nobody has it anymore and they told me to just take the old on down to an auto parts store and have them cut me one. Are you familiar with that part of the bike or that piece.

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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    Quote Originally Posted by luvmy40 View Post
    I'd venture to say the problem is 37 year old rubber heater hose. You said your temp gauge was in the normal range and the blowout did not burn you severely. I'd replace the T-stat just because and all the rubber hoses, cause they're old, ya' know.

    $0.02 YMMV

    I got the old hose off but I think I have a problem. while I was squeezing the hose clamp with a pair of needle nose my friend pulled up on the hose and when it came off there was a really this piece metal that the hose was clamped around still. now there is just a hole where the hose was clamped and nowhere to clamp the new one. i'm hoping maybe there is some kind of piece that screws in there and the hose then clamps to it. Are you familiar with that part at all.

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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    Quote Originally Posted by SpencerPJ View Post
    I agree with Cowpuc, and he is one of the master mechanics of these machines, rides them to 250k miles before retiring them. But personally I would still simply top off radiator, fire up, and watch as it gets hot. The cap is easy to get at, and I'm not sure the overfill will be enough to get you started. Next I would pressure test, Autozone rents these simple kits. My extreme limited mechanical knowledge has me thinking a stuck thermostat and the system built up pressure. But in reality, it could be as simple as a split in a hose.
    I was able to undo the back part of the frame and get the tank out of my way but then I was holding the hose clamp together with a pair of needle nose and when I pulled up on the hose a really thin piece of metal came with it and still stuck to the end of the hose. Now there is just a hole in the top of the head with nowhere to clamp the new hose to. it was getting dark when I got it off so I couldn't see if there are any threads down in there, but it has me worried. is there some kind of piece that may you thread into it and clamp the hose to the end of that? I spent hours looking over the service manual and I didn't see anywhere that it says anything about replacing that hose.

  6. #20
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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    From here it sounds like you are referring to a "barb fitting" of sorts? Can you post a picture..

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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    Yup a picture OR at least look at the part breakdown links from above and give us a better clue. I wouldn't be surprised to find a broken off piece, especially if plain water has been added over the years, corrosive. Even the case, they make self tapping inserts etc, and parts are readily available for these machines. And you are correct, nothing magic about the hoses, but if you can find the correct one, it will have pre-bent corners etc, they do work much nicer. If you can get to a regular size computer screen, looking over the parts diagrams is much easier than if you are on your phone.

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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    A trick I use on old hoses is to work a hooked pick between the hose and nipple to break it loose before I pull or twist on it. I know I'm a little late with this but it could save some trouble in the future.
    Faded Blue is the fastest.

  9. #23
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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    Sounds to me like you pulled the hose nipple from the casing and it is still in the hose? Pictures would help.. If hose connectors are not threaded and screwed in place, IMHO, it is not uncommon for them to be "smudge" fit and fairly easily removed when tugging on hoses.. The simple fix is to take a knife and slice the old hose (unless you are going to reuse hose - in your case you are replacing with new) to remove nipple.. Clean nipple and area in case where nipple was removed. Smear a light coat of YamaBond 5 or other sealant to area on nipple that will meet the wall of the case opening. Start nipple into hole by pushing down on nipple with finger being careful to not get it crooked.. Tap the nipple till you feel it bottom out with a plastic hammer - be careful not to damage it - use finess.. The smudge fit is common in places like carb, petcock and case fittings and as amazing and hard to believe as this sounds,, I have replaced many of them back into thier homes and never had a problem with them leaking and actually very seldom use a sealer when replacing em.. Does any of this make sense
    TIP AND PUC'S MILLION MILE VENTURE adVENTURE FOR OUR adVENTURES AND REPAIR ADVICE SEARCH YOUTUBE: PUC PUC AND TWEEKS

  10. #24
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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    Quote Originally Posted by SpencerPJ View Post
    Yup a picture OR at least look at the part breakdown links from above and give us a better clue. I wouldn't be surprised to find a broken off piece, especially if plain water has been added over the years, corrosive. Even the case, they make self tapping inserts etc, and parts are readily available for these machines. And you are correct, nothing magic about the hoses, but if you can find the correct one, it will have pre-bent corners etc, they do work much nicer. If you can get to a regular size computer screen, looking over the parts diagrams is much easier than if you are on your phone.
    ok trying to send a picClick image for larger version. 

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ID:	118389

  11. Thanks cowpuc gave thanks for this post
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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    a picture of wherre it connects to the head is needed.

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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    Quote Originally Posted by cowpuc View Post
    Sounds to me like you pulled the hose nipple from the casing and it is still in the hose? Pictures would help.. If hose connectors are not threaded and screwed in place, IMHO, it is not uncommon for them to be "smudge" fit and fairly easily removed when tugging on hoses.. The simple fix is to take a knife and slice the old hose (unless you are going to reuse hose - in your case you are replacing with new) to remove nipple.. Clean nipple and area in case where nipple was removed. Smear a light coat of YamaBond 5 or other sealant to area on nipple that will meet the wall of the case opening. Start nipple into hole by pushing down on nipple with finger being careful to not get it crooked.. Tap the nipple till you feel it bottom out with a plastic hammer - be careful not to damage it - use finess.. The smudge fit is common in places like carb, petcock and case fittings and as amazing and hard to believe as this sounds,, I have replaced many of them back into thier homes and never had a problem with them leaking and actually very seldom use a sealer when replacing em.. Does any of this make sense
    I check the links and those are the same as my local Yamaha parts store has. the hose ended up being one they don't have and can't order. it is shown in the diagram but there is no price or place to check to order either. in the pic that is one very thin metal piece and that side doesn't look like it every had any threads. haven't look down in the hole yet, going to do that after I get back from auto parts store with a hose. hopefully someone can figure out what to do then. if that is what you call a smudge nipple in the pic, can I buy a new one of those?

  14. #27
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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    Quote Originally Posted by Venture Capitalist View Post
    Pic came out fine Cap!! Definitely a smudge fit but DEFINITELY not gonna be able to reuse IMHO.. Looks in pretty rough shape.. Alternatives that I can see would be:
    - Replace what ever part the nipple came out of.. (EXPENSIVE AND TIME CONSUMING)ni
    - Find a parts bike and carefully remove nipple- install in your scoot (I am fairly confident that the nipple has never been available seperated from its mounting area).
    - Measure the I.D. of the hole where the nip came from. Pick up a pipe tap of the size you measured and a replacement nipple that is threaded from a hardware/lumberyard store.. Get copper replacement.. Carefully tap the area using grease on the tap to collect shavings as you tap it out.. Make sense?

    A couple pics of the area where the nipple went in and surrounding area would be awesome and helpful in making good suggestions..
    TIP AND PUC'S MILLION MILE VENTURE adVENTURE FOR OUR adVENTURES AND REPAIR ADVICE SEARCH YOUTUBE: PUC PUC AND TWEEKS

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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    Quote Originally Posted by Patch View Post
    a picture of wherre it connects to the head is needed.
    ok here it isClick image for larger version. 

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  16. #29
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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    Ya, I thought that's what happened after just looking at mine. Maybe one of our great members will see this thread over the weekend and have the part you need. You could try this place called Pinwall on ebay, they often have lots of our bike parts. Patch and Cowpuc might have great ideas too.

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    Default Re: coolant blowout

    My first thought was like Puc suggested which would work but you would need to flush even if you pack the pre tap.
    Very doable.

    But also with a caliper you could take a solid measure then a trip to the local parts store look for a valve cover breather, a touch bigger freeze it and insert it after prepping the port.

    I would still look thru the coolant system tho and check that pomp out before it fails you on a trip. Then I would flush the system with a descaler and add a can of stop leak.

    In the late 70s & 80s this was a common practice for all aluminium engines and worked well.

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