83 carb slide

Was dumping fuel thought float was stuck like last time. Cleaned again by just spraying in a little carb cleaner. Noticed slide was not moving so pulled diaphragm and it was shot. So replaced diaphragm with new and cleaned slide. Slide still not moving. Bike actually runs ok at idle but slide not moving it will move freely with my finger. What next had a big group ride planned for tomorrow. I am at a loss?

I would look at the vacuum passage that pulls the diaphragm.

I would look at the vacuum passage that pulls the diaphragm.

:sign yeah that:

I would also make sure the slide is easily sliding in and out of its tunnel from top to bottom by moving it with my finger = making sure it is not getting hung up along the full length of its travel. It should move/slide effortlessly with only slight pressure from one finger. Also double check the seating of your new diaphram and make sure it is seated properly into the collar on the slide. Make sure when seating the diaphram into the groove on the carb body before you slip the cap over it that it is not sneaking out of the groove and that the little tab on the diaphram is resting in its home on the carb body. Make sure the little O-Ring that surrounds the vacuum passage and seals against the cap is in place. Make sure that you have the spring lined up properly on the tangs on the cover interior face as you slide the cover on and carefully watch the diaphram alignment in the groove while setting in the cover in place..

Make sense (I only ask because sometimes I dont )..

If nothing above works then just for fun, slide the slide out and remove the needle, slide the slide back in and see if it suddenly moves freely. Also make sure the slide is clocked as the others, I believe the vacuum port goes downward but fact check me on that, it's been a while since I've been into any of these carbs.

I once ran into this on my Vmax, a couple slides binding after doing some tuning, jetting and trying different needles. It turned out to be the needles, they must have been 1/1 zillionth of a turn to tight. They need only be barely snug. I backed them out, cleaned things up (again) and very carefully snugged them back down. It worked. In this case the needles were stage 1 DJ and not stock but I do recall having to be very careful when I went to the stage 7 needles. Mine worked freely only when barely snug. Play around with how snug by sliding the slide in and see how it works, easy to do before buttoning the whole thing back up. I want to emphasize the need to be very gentle with this.

In theory a straight needle assembled clean and proper should never drag, but even with brand new needles it was necessary to check this part of the assembly to get myself back to normal and free the slides.

Also check to make sure the needles are straight and true. Make sure the pieces are in there correctly and there is nary a speck of dust in there or it may cause the needle to cock or bind just a little bit, enough for it to drag on the emulsion tube and stop the slide from acting freely. Again, just snug, resist the urge to over tighten these things. The slide is old as hell and brittle, it wont take a great deal to break it. Mine have been fine for a couple years barely snug.

Good luck, I hope you get it worked out.

Also make sure the slide is clocked as the others, I believe the vacuum port goes downward but fact check me on that, it's been a while since I've been into any of these carbs.

Yes, the vacuum port should be at the six o'clock position when slide is in its bore.

Got it working thanks..

Got it working thanks..

Nice! Just out of curiosity, what was causing the issue?

I did numerous thing last time cleaned the jets where the air flows, polished the slide, tightened the cover carefully and evenly and the prayed.

Just a quick comment on what is being refer'd to as the vacuum port; it is a tuning or calibration port; not all slides have them, and for different reasons.

Note the port diameters, one has a quicker response then the other! This steadies the needle making for less wear in the long run.

You can cheat the ports or spring them with alternative spring numbers, sometimes it is preferred to do so before changing needle size.

Patch