please help, what would you do?

Okay, I went back and shifted again through each gear and no issues. I have cleaned off some the old gaskets and still have quite a bit left to remove.

some more questions: do I oil/grease the outer surface of all bearings. Also, shop manual shows I must oil interior/ inside of bearings. What oil or grease do I use? Or do I just oil them?heres a pics of upper crankcase with old gasket removed.

There is no need to lubricate the outer race of the bearings. The outer races are not supposed to move.

Oil the inner races and balls with motor oil; that's what will be lubing them later.

There is no need to lubricate the outer race of the bearings. The outer races are not supposed to move.

Oil the inner races and balls with motor oil; that's what will be lubing them later.

Okay, I'm getting close to mating to crankcases but waiting on some more parts. I'm going with yamapartsnation but the only downfall is they take too long to ship, anyway, I have a couple more questions;

Do i apply yamabond sealant to upper crankcase only or do i apply to both crankcases. I'm thinking just upper and how big of a bead, i realize surface area changes but don't want to put too much on. Also, the manual states that i stay clear of the bearings about 2mm , so do i still attempt to place sealant around bolt holes near the bearings?

Maybe my thinking is overkill but i really want to make sure i don't screw anything up.

Thanx again.

I just watched part 8/12 video series and it shows technician applying yamahabond with finger, just a thin layer.

Yup! Think of it like caulk or a gasket. You want to keep it away from bolt holes because when the two halves compress the yamabond gets squished and it can get into the threads which will cause the bolt to bind up giving you a false torque reading and make it difficult to remove the bolt in the future. just a millimeter or less is sufficient to do this. What I am trying to tell you is if you get a little in the actual bolt hole just remove the excess with a toothpick or something. You do want the sealer around the bolt holes but not in the bolt holes.

Keep up the good work!! You will be very pleased with the performance of the bike when it is finished! Back in the day the Venture would run circles around the Gold Wing!!!

Yup! Think of it like caulk or a gasket. You want to keep it away from bolt holes because when the two halves compress the yamabond gets squished and it can get into the threads which will cause the bolt to bind up giving you a false torque reading and make it difficult to remove the bolt in the future. just a millimeter or less is sufficient to do this. What I am trying to tell you is if you get a little in the actual bolt hole just remove the excess with a toothpick or something. You do want the sealer around the bolt holes but not in the bolt holes.

 

Keep up the good work!! You will be very pleased with the performance of the bike when it is finished! Back in the day the Venture would run circles around the Gold Wing!!!

So do i just apply a thin layer to the upper crankcase only, or do I apply to upper and lower. To me, applying to both would be too much.

Yes, one surface is sufficient as the other surface will come in contact with the sealant when assembled. Some people may be anal and insist that both sides be coated to insure a complete seal but then each surface has to have a super thin application to make sure that not too much is used and it gets everywhere!

It is good that you are thinking about all of the possibilities that can happen. Just use common sense and think of what is trying to be accomplished with the task. In this case you are just making sure that the two surfaces, which are never completely flat at a microscopic level, mate up and nothing can leak past the seam...

Yes, one surface is sufficient as the other surface will come in contact with the sealant when assembled. Some people may be anal and insist that both sides be coated to insure a complete seal but then each surface has to have a super thin application to make sure that not too much is used and it gets everywhere!

 

It is good that you are thinking about all of the possibilities that can happen. Just use common sense and think of what is trying to be accomplished with the task. In this case you are just making sure that the two surfaces, which are never completely flat at a microscopic level, mate up and nothing can leak past the seam...

Okay, got it, thanks

I'm sure you know but I'll mention it anyway, when you set the cases together they should meet up flush without forcing them. Had a friend to try to pull case halves together with the bolts when it didn't seat correctly, it's a sick feeling to hear when that aluminum cracks. He didn't have something aligned correctly and broke the case bad enough to have to buy a new one.

I'm sure you know but I'll mention it anyway, when you set the cases together they should meet up flush without forcing them. Had a friend to try to pull case halves together with the bolts when it didn't seat correctly, it's a sick feeling to hear when that aluminum cracks. He didn't have something aligned correctly and broke the case bad enough to have to buy a new one.

I will be careful. What's interesting is that there is only one dowel. I checked the schematic and it only shows the one dowel which aides in lining up everything.

I will be careful. What's interesting is that there is only one dowel. I checked the schematic and it only shows the one dowel which aides in lining up everything.

A trick I use in spots like that is to thread a long stud or a bolt with the head cut off into one side to help line things up. Then just back it out once I get a few bolts started. Lined up many car transmissions that way in my younger days.

New parts still coming in. Decided to just go new with the slave clutch cylinder since it still had original. Little pricey but much needed! Old on left, new on right.

That one on the left looks pretty good really

If that's the original from '83 I bet the innards don't look as good as the outside.

That one on the left looks pretty good really

Its not good on inside.

Quick update. I did a dry fit placing lower crankcase back, shifted through the gears and all is good. Will double check gear lash but think it will be okay. Last part is arriving today , so will probably button everything up this weekend. Friday is my last day at work and will finally be on my summer break. Yes, I'm a high school teacher, 20 plus years. Love my summers since i get to do what I want to do: travel, work on bikes, etc, etc.

Anyway, will keep you posted. I'm excited to get the engine back in frame. I haven't forgotten to check the valves.

Cool beans!!! Maybe someday we will see you and the bike in person somewhere!

I think you will really like the 2nd gen trans swap and it will work ok with the flat land around Oklahoma, but I still feel the VMax final drive will really make it even better.

Here is you one for $79 +shipping and you already have the 2nd gen driveshaft.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Yamaha-Vmax-1200-Final-Drive-Gear-Differential/292225622812?fits=Model%3AVmax+1200&hash=item440a01231c:g:x8oAAOSwbUtZnu~i:sc:USPSPriority!37615!US!-1

Randy

There is no need to lubricate the outer race of the bearings. The outer races are not supposed to move.

Oil the inner races and balls with motor oil; that's what will be lubing them later.

I'm assuming i just use a syringe to oil the inner portion of the bearings? should i try to fill various channels in upper crankcase too in hopes of priming and preventing damage or will oil pump kick in pretty fast?

I'm assuming i just use a syringe to oil the inner portion of the bearings? should i try to fill various channels in upper crankcase too in hopes of priming and preventing damage or will oil pump kick in pretty fast?

If I was concerned about initial oiling, I would just fill it up with oil and remove the spark plugs and crank it over some. I don't think you need to, but if it will make you feel a little more warm and fuzzy, it's easy to do.

Randy

Well, the neutral switch basically fell apart upon install. I overlooked this part , so will get it this week, pricey too !! I can still go ahead and put case halves together. Still waiting on yamabond 4 sealant though. I'm not going to use anything else.

chow 4 now, pics coming soon.

Oh, I was in OKC this weekend, just missed the tornado that hit El Reno, Oklahoma, made the national news !

I purchased a 20-100 ft/lb torque wrench at harbor freight for a mere $80. I have a smaller one and needed a larger one for parts of the crankcases.

Thanks for keeping us updated! I bought a torque wrench from Lowes, their Kobalt label for about the same price. Seems to do a good job. Probably both are made in the same Chinese factory! Ha!

Hello everyone. New here and I have a unique opportunity. I can acquire a 1983 but the 2nd gear is out. also the owner says there is some damage to frame from battery leakage which I'm not concerned about. I have always wanted one of these bikes. It looks like its been stored inside and all parts are there. I can do a straight across trade as i have an old goldwing he wants.

what would you do. I dont want to fix the 2nd gear and can this bike ride okay without it.

thanx for your help

I rode an 89 without second for a couple years no problem.

So I am officially off from work for almost 3 months, yippee!! Then my wife gets the brilliant idea for me to remove all of our mulch from our flower beds and replace with 3 " river rock !! I unloaded almost 2 tons today! I know tomorrow I'm going to feel it! Anyway, I'm going to put the cases back together tomorrow morning. Hope all goes well!

later

So I am officially off from work for almost 3 months, yippee!! Then my wife gets the brilliant idea for me to remove all of our mulch from our flower beds and replace with 3 " river rock !! I unloaded almost 2 tons today! I know tomorrow I'm going to feel it! Anyway, I'm going to put the cases back together tomorrow morning. Hope all goes well!

later

You know... some of you guys just have to learn to say, "When I've finished doing MY project darling!"

Okay, cases are back together. Note to others, I used a small crafts type brush made of horse hair to apply yama bond. I only applied a thin layer to the upper case being careful to stay 2 mm from bearing edges. The small brush made application pretty neat and easy. Bearing retainers are in, along with oil pump and oil pan. Used new o rings , seals and of course Oem gasket which I dry fitted. Before I buttoned everything up, I made sure the transmission shifted through all gears. Gear lash appears fine with very slight movement. So far a great learning experience. I've decided to not paint any parts since most of these are covered anyway. More work planned for tomorrow!