Still no fire....driving me crazy

Ignition Switch......

POSITIONS:

1, red

2, brown we know he has no power on brown but where, it feeds fuses 2,3 & 4/ 3 is ignition also feeds coils and the rest of the starting circuit and, all in series off the red/white. We know he had house volts at the coils but drops to 10ish while cranking. The brown wire after feeding to the fuse box bypasses the starting circuit. There could be a fault in a connector for the red/white wire in the large 8 pin M/F connector plug as Carl suggested. The TCI red/white pin should read house voltage as should the rest of this circuit just like the coils have.

As for the brown wire there could be a break after the fuse box? I would test it this way: remove the fuse those 3 fuses and the 2 pin (1 pin red the other brown) connector coming out of the ignition switch clip to make sure the circuit is open. Put one end of the meter to the brown pin at the rectifier connection pin, the other lead to the (this Br wire feed to) feed side of the fuse, it should read ∞.. Note this brown wire has no other connections showing in the schematics past the fuse box till it gets to the rectifier.

3, blue tail

4, red/black acc

Ignition circuits at the bottom of the page..

https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale%20TDK%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf

I have the 4 wheelers 85 (no 2nd gear either) that hasn't started since the day after I bought it. It's goin got be the winter project. I installed the ignitec ignition in it and still no joy.

What I wanted to add to this conversation is this: Just because a wire looks good (on the ends) doesn't mean it is good. Older wire can carry voltage (pass a continuity test) but won't pass current (or maybe it's the other way around?) due to green crud growing inside the insulation. Call it tarnish, call it mold, I don't know which it is.

My '65 Suburban had a head light out, got a new head light and installed it, still no light. Tested the circuit's wires from first headlight in the circuit to the one that didn't work, (2nd head light in the system; with ONE light on each side of the truck) wire tested with the meter just fine, still no light. Checked the terminals, they were fine, started to install new terminals that came with new headlight plug and saw the green stuff in the wire strands, replaced all 3 wires in this end of the circuit with new wire, the light worked fine. Now I don't know if it was mold or corrosion but I do know that the wire LOOKED fine, was CLEAN at both ends and still DID NOT work so I would replace the battery ground with a stranded (the finer the strand the better IMHO) AWG #6 or #8 using new soldered lugs.

I would clean all the switches, the kick stand, the ignition and then the kill switch. There are guides on how to do this in the tech section of this forum.

THEN I would go hunting with my test light and meter.

Good luck and please report your results; all would benefit from your exp.!