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Intake boot repair


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I've had moderate success with repairing moderately cracked boots but have come to the conclusion that its a temporary repair at best. A liquid rubber product like flex seal, applied as a complete unbroken layer to the entire exterior can work, but it doesn't stop the real issue which is the boot rubber deteriorating from age and heat. It's difficult to get two things to stay bonded when one of them is literally decomposing. Ive never seen a successful repair of a completely broken boot, but maybe someone else has?

 

If you can get liquid rubber, tape off the gasket surfaces and coat the heck out of the outside, the idea is not to seal individual cracks but to essentially create a laminated outer layer so that the cracks become irrelevant.

 

In a pinch, your local hardware store probably has liquid masking tape in the electrical section, it can work well for sealing cracks. Clean the old boot really well with alcohol (not acetone or lacquer thinner) before applying anything.

 

Tim

Edited by 7 lakes
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I've had moderate success with repairing moderately cracked boots but have come to the conclusion that its a temporary repair at best. A liquid rubber product like flex seal, applied as a complete unbroken layer to the entire exterior can work, but it doesn't stop the real issue which is the boot rubber deteriorating from age and heat. It's difficult to get two things to stay bonded when one of them is literally decomposing. Ive never seen a successful repair of a completely broken boot, but maybe someone else has?

 

If you can get liquid rubber, tape off the gasket surfaces and coat the heck out of the outside, the idea is not to seal individual cracks but to essentially create a laminated outer layer so that the cracks become irrelevant.

 

In a pinch, your local hardware store probably has liquid masking tape in the electrical section, it can work well for sealing cracks. Clean the old boot really well with alcohol (not acetone or lacquer thinner) before applying anything.

 

Tim

 

Roger that Tim, this will be a temp fix due to other problems that need to be fixed also. 165 bucks for new boots that I will eventually buy after I fix my tyranny problem lol

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  • 1 month later...

I know this is an old post

 

So yes I have and have pics somewhere I can dig them up if it helps!

 

On the Yamaha I found (not my bike) broken sealing rings where the vacuum is sealed and locks barrels into position.

So for this I use a light even ring of liquid gasket applied to the upper end of barrel on the carb. This is important because all I want to do is block potential leaking not glue it in!

 

Next place of concern is the mounting base where there is a gasket or o-ring. If you have doubt that the flange is seal flat and because this is temporary; again use some liquid gasket applied to the center of the flange 1/8" diameter. Place the flange firmly to the head in one movement do not disturb the seal, finger tighten the nut then 1/2 turn with the wrench; Clean the spillage if any with a gloved finger inside the port; let it set up then tighten evenly.

 

Usually the intake tubes have 3 layers, the outer in that case really has little effect!

 

The cleaning is very important, use a clean rag with a solvent that does not leave a residue behind.

 

After she has setup spin the engine no more than 5 turns with your hand over the intake port, she should draw down and hold your hand! This can be a bit spooky to do the 1st time when you feel the strong effect of vacuum.

 

Anyways that my experience work safe

 

Patch

Edited by Patch
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  • 2 years later...

When I was repairing the intake boots on my Yamaha FJ600 , I used Permatex RTV ultra black. It binds right to the rubber and has held for a year so far without sign of failure.

 

Just be mindful of putting it on though because it is thick and cures fast so plan ahead. Once done it looks almost like a welding bead.

Edited by BlueChips84
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