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Reserve lighting unit?


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You were calling a relay so I was confused.

 

Never ride faster then your angel can fly. I am as free as the wind on my face.

You're confused? Hahaha you haven't seen confused yet! I'm seeing plugs and wires and diagrams and handlebars and batteries in my sleep. But, I haven't given up! I certainly hope this solves my problem so I can CTFW soon! I did replace my clutch springs, my radiator and my clutch slave by myself and haven't got to get it on the road yet to make sure everything's good. I'm learning. You guys are great teachers! Many sincere thanks and the most appreciation I can show you without spending any money!

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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Try tapping with the handle end of a screw driver on the turn cancelling relay. Wonder if it's stuck or just plain bad.
It's got a nice little pigtail on it but I can let it tap against the edge of a counter or something. Maybe it'll jiggle loose with all that motion instead of laying on the counter getting whacked. Hey if we ever meet, feel free to give me a punch in the shoulder or something for being such a hard head if you like.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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I've got to head home for a while and make sure my phone is charged. I got a strange phone call last night from a woman who I helped after her surgery last year. We kind of had a moment and there was definitely mutual attraction but at the time it wasn't good for either of us. Because she's 1 out of only two women that I've been attracted to that are age-appropriate in about 10 years I figure I better at least check it out. I didn't answer because it came in restricted so I didn't know who it was but she said she try me again today. It was almost 10 when she called, maybe I missed a booty call? But she should know I'm not that kind of man. That and my hands are killing me from unplugging and plugging all that stuff.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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Cooling fan did not come on. Nearly to the bottom of the red line on the temp gauge and it looks like I'm going to have to pull the cover off of my clutch slave that I replaced and see where this oil is coming from. It looks like that dreaded drip over the kickstand which is weird cuz that's new gaskets and all. It is oil not brake fluid. It was only brake fluid before I replaced the slave unit

Also I have some leaking around my radiator cap. But it's coming out from under the cap not from the Overflow tube joint. Are radiator caps radiator caps?e301d2921827e8acb7dd5524e35efe5b.jpg4ce495daba9367bfadce51f88ead84f0.jpg287aa44571e92bc503806d2fccb1efef.jpg4537c45a7ae020af3465beed796da5a5.jpg

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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I know we talked about the outer bearing on the pin that the clutch slave engages with but there is no evidence of leakage there before. I think it has to do with the cover. What do you think?

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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Did you have the stator cover off?

If so what did you do to seal the stator wires?

I did not remove the stator cover. In one of my posts I put pictures of the wires coming out of the stator inside the other cover and somebody mentioned to me that they look fine and not to worry about it. I'll send that photo if I can find it again right now I couldn't find it in my phone. I'll have to go through my other posts.

 

It's a pretty good drip when it's running.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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I did not remove the stator cover. In one of my posts I put pictures of the wires coming out of the stator inside the other cover and somebody mentioned to me that they look fine and not to worry about it. I'll send that photo if I can find it again right now I couldn't find it in my phone. I'll have to go through my other posts.

 

It's a pretty good drip when it's running.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

I also have the radiator cap that was sent with to me with this radiator but it was dry and the rubber parts seem a little crispy so I use this one. I'll start her again after a while and see what happens.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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Did you have the stator cover off?

If so what did you do to seal the stator wires?

I don't believe I've put many miles on it since we installed the stator cooler upgrade. (Professionally, not by me.) That would put more oil in there correct? But it didn't leak before I did the slave.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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Are you sure that it is not a valve cover gasket leaking and running down there? Take a good look above that to be sure the leak is not above the 2 side covers. There is also the twinkie at the bottom of the V that is a popular leak.

Did you check for oil in the air cleaner box?

I like to be sure before I disassemble stuff.

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Are you sure that it is not a valve cover gasket leaking and running down there? Take a good look above that to be sure the leak is not above the 2 side covers. There is also the twinkie at the bottom of the V that is a popular leak.

Did you check for oil in the air cleaner box?

I like to be sure before I disassemble stuff.

Valve cover gaskets are new, professionally installed. I do have gas leaking under my # 2 carb black boot is wet and there seems to be a pool in the middle of the engine between the cylinders but the first trip when I get it running as to take it back to the mechanic to get that fixed. He's aware of that and wants it back. Of course by then he'll be 12 weeks deep in work... I don't know what a Twinkie is. But I am glad Twinkies are back on the shelves! I checked the air cleaner the last time I started it up after I changed the oil, because I did get it a little too full and haven't drained it out yet. I'll pull the cover off again tomorrow and let you know. After restringing my harness and putting my Dash back together I'm ready to walk away for the evening.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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Cancelling unit showed up in the mailbox today. Plugged it in no more blowing fuses. I need to follow advice and clean my headlamp and turn signal switches. It's still giving me a headlight warning signal and I have to flip back and forth from high to low manually. I thought that's what the RL you was supposed to take care of so you didn't have to flip it. We'll see if that fixes the rlu problem or if there really is an issue with the rlu.

 

Okay so I'm putting some pictures of the cover and the drip. I marked it couple of things that I suspect of being the leak. Look at how it looks bevelled around the Bolt holes I marked. I don't know why that one is different than all the others. It's the bottom center hole. You will see my Helicoil inserted in there. Gaskets fine. Brand new, came off real slick. Can a guy use high temp gasket sealer at the bottom area around that Bolt? The gasket for the clutch cover arrived with a line of white that looks like some kind of way to add thickness to the gasket in that specific area. I figure it was cuz of a known problem. Can a guy get ahold of that stuff?://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180331/258b7d6375ffba844255952f11ef7e00.jpg[/img]9cebb69d137c64e2004dba3f6da61f5f.jpgc1f5191eb226548e9cb0c6393d20eb80.jpg0c67c2a00c1e7239bba4f30436b7a3a2.jpga4e3eee9677f78d3f912e8e4b2d02226.jpg

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

Edited by s.tyler58
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Cancelling unit showed up in the mailbox today. Plugged it in no more blowing fuses. I need to follow advice and clean my headlamp and turn signal switches. It's still giving me a headlight warning signal and I have to flip back and forth from high to low manually. I thought that's what the RL you was supposed to take care of so you didn't have to flip it. We'll see if that fixes the rlu problem or if there really is an issue with the rlu.

 

Okay so I'm putting some pictures of the cover and the drip. I marked it couple of things that I suspect of being the leak. Look at how it looks bevelled around the Bolt holes I marked. I don't know why that one is different than all the others. It's the bottom center hole. You will see my Helicoil inserted in there. Gaskets fine. Brand new, came off real slick. Can a guy use high temp gasket sealer at the bottom area around that Bolt?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180331/258b7d6375ffba844255952f11ef7e00.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180331/9cebb69d137c64e2004dba3f6da61f5f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180331/c1f5191eb226548e9cb0c6393d20eb80.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180331/0c67c2a00c1e7239bba4f30436b7a3a2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180331/a4e3eee9677f78d3f912e8e4b2d02226.jpg

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

The third photo is the engine, the one marked is the matching hole on the cover.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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The RLU only switches automagically between high and low beams IF one of the bulbs is burned out. That way you never lose lighting on a dark and stormy night in the middle of nowhere...

 

Glad to hear the new relay solved the short problem.

 

The bolt hole at the bottom center is supposed to have a washer on it under the bolt. If there wasn't one, then that's your leak. In other words...all the little bolts go in snugly by themselves. Only the bottom center bolt has a brass type washer to keep oil from leaking out of that hole....

 

BTW, do not overtighten these covers. Around 90 to 100 inch pounds I think...about what I can twist the tool with my wrist only. About 7 to 8 ft/lbs?

 

I think this is the part....

 

Yamaha

Gasket

90430-06014-00

 

If I missed something my apologies...

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The RLU only switches automagically between high and low beams IF one of the bulbs is burned out. That way you never lose lighting on a dark and stormy night in the middle of nowhere...

 

Glad to hear the new relay solved the short problem.

 

The bolt hole at the bottom center is supposed to have a washer on it under the bolt. If there wasn't one, then that's your leak. In other words...all the little bolts go in snugly by themselves. Only the bottom center bolt has a brass type washer to keep oil from leaking out of that hole....

 

BTW, do not overtighten these covers. Around 90 to 100 inch pounds I think...about what I can twist the tool with my wrist only. About 7 to 8 ft/lbs?

 

I think this is the part....

 

Yamaha

Gasket

90430-06014-00

 

If I missed something my apologies...

Yeah I learned my lesson when I had to replace the stripped threads in the engine side with the Helicoil. Doh! I did order a new copper Crush Washer when I got the new gasket. It didn't seem to be very crushed however. I did use my quarter inch torque wrench to torque them to 96 inch pounds. Before removing the cover it was dry below the bolt but wet on the back side so I'm thinking those little bevelled dents just need a little help to seal the cover to the engine side at the bottom bolt.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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Snip...so I'm thinking those little bevelled dents just need a little help to seal the cover to the engine side at the bottom bolt.

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

 

Good call...I agree. JB Weld may fill in that gap and stay there. Let's hope the brain trust here can confirm or add more ino.

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Good call...I agree. JB Weld may fill in that gap and stay there. Let's hope the brain trust here can confirm or add more ino.
Neighbor fixed me up with a little Loctite hightemp and suggests a touch of gray permatex gasket sealer on the thread of the bottom bolt when I pit it back on.

 

Did you see the stator wires? Wet but no leaks around them. Thought I better seek another opinion before I go ahead and just put this back together. I sure like to do this for the last time for a while... Oh well I'm getting experience

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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:clap2::clap2::dancefool::clap2::clap2:

 

 

One by One. and it's not even April yet.

 

Glad your short is fixed. The leaks will get fixed as well. You'll be a master Gen 1 mechanic after all this....

It was 64 degrees yesterday with only a 5 to 10 mile per hour south Breeze. Then I watch that damn 50cc video between 3 and 5 this morning that somebody put up in the watering hole...

 

Today it's 25 to 40 mile an hour winds from the north. Easter supposed to be a high of 30 with snow possible. That doesn't depressed me near as much as it does my little granddaughters who had all their pretty spring Easter outfits and now they're worried about having to wear coats or long pants!

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

Edited by s.tyler58
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I believe the cover is now sealed but I have no idea where more oil might be coming from. So I'm wondering if I'm just burning off excess underneath but that should be done by now. Oil smoke not exhaust leak. I took it off the jack and I'm going to let her sit on the center stand overnight to see if anything accumulates underneath it.

 

 

...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

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  • 1 year later...

I know this is an old posting but I have also acquired a 1983 Venture with many electrical problems as well.

I too have been through every circuit chasing the "HEADLIGHT OUT " warning on the dash coming on intermittently while driving and also a very dimly lit Low Beam light. High Beam Light worked great.

Here's what I found;

1) 10.9 to 11.6 VDC at bulb

2) Same voltages coming from the handlebar headlight switch.

3) I eliminated the RLD "Reserve Lighting Device"

Now that this device is out of the circuit my LOW BEAM is gone all together, NO LIGHT. The RLD was not the problem.

Unfortunately I now also get the "Headlight Out" warning on the dash and here is why; With all the circuit tracing, I have found that The lighting circuit for the High Beam was working correctly but the circuit for the Low Beam light failed at the dashboard.

No voltage coming from the output wire for the Low Beam. I had voltage at the input wire but nothing at the output. So I used a wire to jump across the input wire to the output wire and BAMMM, I had Low Beam at the Headlight. My Low Beam had light before when the RLD was still in the circuit but it was very low even with 10.9 VDC being seen there by my meter. I know this sounds crazy but its true. Maybe it was all voltage with hardly any amperage, i did not check for the amperage. I think that I was seeing voltage coming from the RLD unit somehow and NOT from the dashboard.

4) I did not remove the dashboard circuitry to see what or how it may operate but I know that if you bypass any light circuit coming into or out of this unit you will get 2 different outcomes. if you cut the output wire from the dashboard before the jumper, so that its not connected to anything but leave the input wire from the dashboard connected to the jumper, you will loose LOW BEAM. I don't know why this is, the jumper should have directed all voltage the the headlight but it didn't. The only thing that comes to mind is that the input has a short in it too ground causing all voltage to that path.

If you leave the output wire from the dashboard connected along with the jumper wire and cut the input wire from the dashboard from the jumper wire, the LOW BEAM works but the "HEADLIGHT OUT" warning now shows.

5) If you run a 12VDC positive wire to cut input wire to the dashboard - NOTHING, warning still there.

6) If you run a GROUND wire to the dashboard input wire - NOTHING, warning still there.

 

CONCLUSION; My dashboard computer circuitry has a faulty LOW BEAM circuit. I may someday take it apart to see what is causing this but right now i'm going to just ride it.

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Cracked solder joints on the circuit board of the CMU are fairly common. I would guess that this is your problem.

The headlight wires that run thru the dash are for the CMU to be able to monitor the amps going to the headlight, once you bypass it the computer sees this a a bulb out and lights up the warning. There are some threads with good pics on how to bypass the warning on the computer board. You also may need to do the CMU bypass if you put in LED or HID headlight.

 

The CMU also monitors the High beam, Low Beam, Tail lights, and Brake lights. If you have any intention of ever going LED then you will need to jumper all of the monitors to be able to avoid bulb out warnings.

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