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Clutch Slave Cylinder leaking


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Since I bought my VR last year, I've noticed it was slowly dripping oil of some type and I sorta figured out it was hydraulic fluid from the clutch slave cylinder. I started to ride it yesterday and I noticed the fluid was too low in the clutch MC. So, I tried to remove the cover. One screw came out and the other had a boogered up screw head. So, today I went on a search to find a left handed drill bit to drill it out. Ace Hardware has them on their web site but none in stock. But, there is an old large hardware store downtown that had one. So, now if I can very carefully drill out that dang screw, I'll be happy for now.

 

I looked at partzilla last night for the slave cylinder and/or rebuild kits and they have both available.

 

I just did a lot of work on my 02 F150 to get it fixed(rr axle and bearing, both front bearing hubs, 4 tie rod ends, idler arm, swaybar end link bushings, lower ball joints, 4 calipers, brake hoses, master cylinder) and now it is the motorcycles turn. My Kawasaki ZN700 that has been reliable for the last several years wouldn't start. Battery is fully charged, cables are tight and the starter just clicks sometimes, not every time I try to start it. I think the switches in the circuit needs cleaning.

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This is a common issue with the older VRs and most of us have rebuilt or replaced ours. You will also need the middle gear case gasket as you have to remove the cover to access the clutch slave cylinder. It takes a bit of wrangling to get the cylinder out of it position but it can be done, just look at it carefully and take your time and it will come out. I took this time to also rebuild my clutch master cylinder and replaced the old hoses with steel braided hose since I could hold my old ones and feel them swell with I applied pressure to the system.

Hope this helps and ask more questions if you are not sure of something.

Rick F.

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On the screws on the master cylinders covers, I found that if I used one of the Phillips head bits and held it with Vise grips from the side, I could take a small hammer and peck on the top of the bit while slightly turning it. I have had some that were in pretty rough shape, but I have always gotten them out that way. I replace the screws with Allen head screws and have never had a problem getting them out.

I remember many years ago I was trying to get a clutch slave cylinder out and after messing with it for a while, I let go of it and it fell out. There is a bit of technique, but they do come out.

Randy

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An impact driver will often get out that buggered screw.

 

Once you drill off the head of the MC screw, lift the cover off and their will be enough screw sticking out that usually you can turn out the remaining screw just with your fingers.

 

Based on the war stories that I have read, you are often better off replacing the slave with new rather than rebuild. The rebuild kit is not that much less than a new one, and from what I have read on this site has about a 50% success rate on rebuilds where the bore was not so pitted as to not be rebuildable.

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An impact driver will often get out that buggered screw.

 

Once you drill off the head of the MC screw, lift the cover off and their will be enough screw sticking out that usually you can turn out the remaining screw just with your fingers.

 

 

Thanks for that tip. I tried the impact driver. It worked when I tried it on my Kawasaki but not on the Yamaha. There was nothing left to grip. But, drilling the head off and removing the cover sounds like a great idea that I had not thought of!!:)

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I have the tool kit screwdrivers for both of my bikes. This screw was already boogered up. I managed to drill it almost completely out when somehow I managed to break off the tip of the drill bit. So now I'm screwed. For the time being one screw will have to be good enough and it seems to be.

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Rebuilt the slaves on my Vmax and MM. The cylinder bores were pretty clean and not too crapped up or damaged. So, so far so good.

But it is a bit of a pain to do the job because you have to get that middle gear gasket too.

Most folks would probably buy a new slave.

In any case, it can take a while to bleed the system and get a full clutch handle back.

Good luck.

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I have the tool kit screwdrivers for both of my bikes. This screw was already boogered up. I managed to drill it almost completely out when somehow I managed to break off the tip of the drill bit. So now I'm screwed. For the time being one screw will have to be good enough and it seems to be.

 

Be very careful with only 1 screw in the cover, just one drop of fluid leaking out and getting on the fairing will destroy the fairing.

 

To get the broken drill tip out, use a center punch gently to break it up so you can pick out the pieces.

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I have the tool kit screwdrivers for both of my bikes. This screw was already boogered up. I managed to drill it almost completely out when somehow I managed to break off the tip of the drill bit. So now I'm screwed. For the time being one screw will have to be good enough and it seems to be.

 

The tool kit screwdrivers aren't that great. Harbor Freight has a #2 Phillips that holds up great and fits JIS screws, and it only costs $1.69 now.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-x-4-inch-phillips-screwdriver-94707.html

 

Anybody thqt does any work on metric bikes needs JIS phillips screwdrivers to avoid stripping phillips heads out.

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I don't have JIS screwdrivers and yet I manage to not bugger most stuff.. so the harbor freights will fit but I don't think they are JIS (or will last too long). the worst thing about cheap Phillips screwdrivers is the blades brake and then immediately bugger the screw head.

 

The tool kit screwdrivers aren't that great. Harbor Freight has a #2 Phillips that holds up great and fits JIS screws, and it only costs $1.69 now.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-x-4-inch-phillips-screwdriver-94707.html

 

Anybody thqt does any work on metric bikes needs JIS phillips screwdrivers to avoid stripping phillips heads out.

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