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New Fuse Box Help


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As I am somewhat electrically disadvantaged....I'm hoping there is a good write-up somewhere or someone can give some guidance.

I'm looking to replace the glass fuses with a "blade" type fuse box, I'd also like to add a switched circuit for a lighter and a set of driving lights. Now I know a member on the site sells a complete kit, but I have access to all the parts at cost, so all I need is a good "walk-through" set of directions...."Is anyone aware of a past write-up?" Really, I'm just confused about the wires that attach to the screws at the top (toward the front of the bike) of the old fuse box...where do I attach these?

Thanks in advance

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Those are the AUX circuit. and are powered from the fuse directly below them just follow the wire it is about 3 inches long. One screw is positive from that Fuse and the other is negative/ground. That is where Yamaha intended that you connect all electrical accessories, on that nice cute little 5 amp circuit.

 

If you are replacing the fuse panel anyhow, forget about those and make 2 new terminal blocks. I screwed my 2 new terminal blocks to the top of the air cleaner, just leave enough slack in the wires to allow servicing the air cleaner. these 2 new terminal blocs are set up with one as switched power and the other set up as battery power. the power to each block is run through a 20A fuse for the switched power and a 40 A MAXI fuse for the battery power. This gives a nice clean way to install new toys down the road.

 

I don't think you are real far away from me, let me know if you need help, I like playing with wires. :240:

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If you are replacing the fuse panel anyhow, forget about those and make 2 new terminal blocks. I screwed my 2 new terminal blocks to the top of the air cleaner, just leave enough slack in the wires to allow servicing the air cleaner. these 2 new terminal blocs are set up with one as switched power and the other set up as battery power. the power to each block is run through a 20A fuse for the switched power and a 40 A MAXI fuse for the battery power. This gives a nice clean way to install new toys down the road.

 

let me know if you need help, I like playing with wires. :240:

 

 

Most people I've noticed tend to recreate the old fuse block when they put in a new one but actually everything in my decaying old original fuse block gets 12v on the left side of the fuse when the key goes to on. OK, maybe I didn't look closely enough at the ACC position, I guess CLASS is only available there.

The burning question for me is whether one can't just get a fuse block with a power bus and just take the right side wires from the other side of the new fuses. One, maybe two, possibly three connections for power in under different switch positions and then the eventual recipients of those after providing safety through the fuse. Battery, Switched ON, and Switched ACC? It seems like you maybe have done it this way, does that sound about right? I just want to be sure I'm not missing a situation where two circuits need damping or isolation between them, even though they both appear to just get +12v when the key is ON.

 

Please answer as soon as you can, I just finished a longish list of front end rebuilding but am unable to ride because of my crumbling fuse block.

 

:bang head::depressed::doh::confused07::puzzled::confused07::doh::depressed::bang head::bang head::bang head::bang head::depressed::doh::confused07::puzzled::confused07::doh::depressed::bang head:

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No you do not want to just buss one side of the fuse block

there are some of the fuses that are bussed together to the switched power head, ignition, signal, fan (key in on), but there are separate power feeds for the parking lights (Key in park or on) backup (hot to battery), Audio (key in on or accy), Acc (key in on or accy)hazard (hot to battery),

 

I wired my new fuse block just like the original so the fuses are the same values and locations as stock. The terminal blocks that I added are in addition to the stock wiring and only have non stock things connected to them.

 

If you really wanted to you could connect the one whole side of the fuse block to switched power, but you will lose the ability to retain radio stations, lose the ability to turn on just parking lights, lose the ability to have hazard lights with the key off, I am not sure what the ramifications of using class while moving would be. I would/did wire it just like it was.

 

Yes everything but acc is hot with the key in on, But when the key is in other positions (acc, park off) some stay hot and others turn off depending on key position.

Edited by Flyinfool
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Thanks for the reply, I had computer trouble and couldn't see your response this morning but I found a five position ATC fuse block at O'reilly's for $11.50 and bought a dozen fully insulated female tab connectors while I was there for $4.00 more. I ended up doing it just like the original as well, instead of the larger more complicated fusebox design I was considering. The original wires seemed a little short and made for a tight fit but it worked. Psychologically it worked to write the connection info on each tab connector with a sharp sharpie. I didn't get confused but it helped me to know I wrote notes on the connectors anyway. Pictures to follow tomorrow.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 years later...

Hey Don,

I'm not sure what's going on with the link, but here it is again!

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?139140-First-Gen-VR-(1983-TO-1993)-Fuse-Box-Upgrade-Kit!

 

If this link doesn't work Don, then please feel free to contact me at skydoc17@gmail.com

The kit is still available, and I would be happy to chat with you about it.

You can always PM me thru this forum as well.

Hope this helps,

Earl

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