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please help, what would you do?


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Okay, now that I have the bike running and not stalling on me, I have a couple more issues to address:

1st the gas tank gauge. I have seen the bars a few times but then they disappear. How do I fix that?

the 2nd issue has already been answered and I just have to find the time to tweak, bike is running rich.

 

 

Check and verify that the grounds are clean. If that doesn't fix it , pull the float assembly and make sure the wiper and coil resister make good contact through the full range of motion. I've had to solder an isolated ground wire on the float assembly on other bikes before.

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Check and verify that the grounds are clean. If that doesn't fix it , pull the float assembly and make sure the wiper and coil resister make good contact through the full range of motion. I've had to solder an isolated ground wire on the float assembly on other bikes before.

Will do, thanx

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Something to report! I took the bike out yesterday and we had high winds around 20-30 mph. This was my first experience riding this bike in high winds. As big and as heavy as she is, I was bullied around pretty easily by the wind. Now it could be that i am not used to the bike but i was just surprised at how easily she swayed.

thoughts?

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Okay, now that I have the bike running and not stalling on me, I have a couple more issues to address:

1st the gas tank gauge. I have seen the bars a few times but then they disappear. How do I fix that?

the 2nd issue has already been answered and I just have to find the time to tweak, bike is running rich.

 

In addition to what Luv said, follow the leads from the float rheostat to the CMS (Computer Monitoring System). Clean and check any connections, including the main connector on the CMS. Failing to find any inconsistencies in the connections and wiring harness, you must suspect the CMS circuit board.

 

cmu plug.jpgLCD display reverse.jpgPICT5655s.jpgfuel sender unit .JPGfuel sender unit rusted.jpgFuel sending unit bad.JPG

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Is this the air/fuel mixture screw? Where my little screwdriver points back in the hole is a little brass screw. I'm trying to sync and turning the screws does not change the dials on my sync tool.

 

Yes, that is the pilot screw (air/fuel mixture) but, that is not the synchronization screw.

 

The synch screws are here:

Synch adjustment screws right side.jpgSynch screw adjuster, left side.jpgSynchronization ProcedureCarb .pdf

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Okay, now, the pilot screws should be 2 turns out from lightly seated , correct? and if its running too rich, do i turn all the pilot screws in 1/4 turn to lean her out.

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Okay, now, the pilot screws should be 2 turns out from lightly seated , correct? and if its running too rich, do i turn all the pilot screws in 1/4 turn to lean her out.

 

Generally, we consider 2¼ to 2¾ turns out as a baseline.

Yes IN equals leaner, OUT equals richer.

Read the pdf I attached to my previous post.

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What should my gas mileage be? I get around town would be less but what about highway mileage?

That's a very loaded question. Running around local and playing with the power I get as low as 31 mpg. Touring and riding like somebody acting my age I'll get up to 41-42. Two up and pulling the trailer with luggage I drop to 28-29 running 75-78 on the interstate.

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Okay, Can anyone clarify the crankcase breather mod? I'm thinking the setup I have is not helping my gas mileage. Here is my setup which the po did.

Both holes capped on airbox. A clear tube running from crankase with a small air filter on end of tube. This tube runs into the cowling on right side where it is not getting much air since the air vent (one facing forward) is blocked off with cardboard.

I read somewhere that skydoc had a kit for this.

Any thoughts on this and should the little filter at end be exposed to outside to get sufficient air to breath?

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I just found this:

 

"For those of you with early Ventures that had the air box drain hose that went to the ground, Yamaha did a design change and issued a tech bulletin. Basically to tee the drain hose back into the breather hose so that oil could eventually drip back down the breather to the crankcase. Here is the fix...

 

The bulletin its M84-017 issued 4/6/84.

On the breather hose from crankcase to air box, cut the hose 35 mm from the crankcase end. Install a tee fitting Yamaha part # 90413-12017-00 between the 35 mm hose and the remaining breather hose, and use 2 clips Yamaha part #90467-14015-00.

Shorten your air box drain hose to 360 mm, by cutting off the bottom end and discarding the inline filter., Reuse one of the clips from your inline filter on the drain hose to install it into the tee you installed on the breather hose."

 

 

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Old Coots like me remember the old cars that had a vent pipe that vented the engine base to the bottom of the car to atmosphere. I remember my old chevy V8s having a large tube that connected at the rear of the engine that was routed down. My old $100 59 Chevy developed a head gasket leak or something and water vapor would come out that pipe. When emissions concerns came about, they vented the base of the engine to manifold vacuum and used clean air downstream of the air filter to supply the engine base to complete the engine base purge.

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I'm thinking the setup I have is not helping my gas mileage.

Any thoughts on this and should the little filter at end be exposed to outside to get sufficient air to breath?

 

The method of crankcase ventilation will have no effect on gas mileage.

The filter is fine where it is. Its primary job in your case is to simply filter crankcase blow by gases.

 

Personally, I never saw the need for the Skydoc kit.

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I just found this:

 

"For those of you with early Ventures that had the air box drain hose that went to the ground, Yamaha did a design change and issued a tech bulletin. Basically to tee the drain hose back into the breather hose so that oil could eventually drip back down the breather to the crankcase. Here is the fix...

 

The bulletin its M84-017 issued 4/6/84.

On the breather hose from crankcase to air box, cut the hose 35 mm from the crankcase end. Install a tee fitting Yamaha part # 90413-12017-00 between the 35 mm hose and the remaining breather hose, and use 2 clips Yamaha part #90467-14015-00.

Shorten your air box drain hose to 360 mm, by cutting off the bottom end and discarding the inline filter., Reuse one of the clips from your inline filter on the drain hose to install it into the tee you installed on the breather hose."

 

 

 

The purpose of this factory mod was to drain oil that accumulated in the airbox, back to the crankcase. On the 1983's the smaller tube from the airbox drained any accumulated oil to the ground under the left crankcase, through a small inline filter.

The larger tube between the airbox and the "twinkie" was only for crankcase ventilation, (think PCV).

If the crankcase was not overfilled with oil, there was usually no oil accumulating in the airbox. The trouble with oil in the airbox was that Yamaha specified an excessive amount of oil to be added to the crankcase after an oil and filter change.

 

M84-17 page 2.jpgM84-017 Air Box Oil Leakage .pdf

Edited by Prairiehammer
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The method of crankcase ventilation will have no effect on gas mileage.

The filter is fine where it is. Its primary job in your case is to simply filter crankcase blow by gases.

 

Personally, I never saw the need for the Skydoc kit.

 

 

okay, thanks for the info

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WOW!! This very topic caused some ruffled feathers back in 09. Found this written by Skydoc.

 

When a brother VentureRider.Org member starts a thread asking for help with their bike, I have NEVER refused them ANY information I have on the few subjects that I have knowledge about. As it was for me when I first joined this group. A portion of the members took a liken' to me and shared the information they had, walked me thru the fixes, and shared in the pride of knowing that between the two (or more) of us we were able to repair my bike or upgrade an issue that was causing me trouble.

For anyone who thinks that their 98 horse power MOTORCYCLE isn't putting enough hydro-carbons out of the tailpipes to kill off more than a few trees, or their car or truck for that matter, should live in a state where they "smog check" every vehicle, then you would get an idea just how bad vehicle pollution is. I'm sure we ALL do our fair share of destroying the ozone with the vehicles we drive/ride, the places we work, the trash we throw away, etc. This old saying comes to mind, and it goes like this: "People that live in glass houses, shouldn't throw stones!"

So unless you live in a mud hut, WALK everywhere you go, wear animal skins for clothes, and of course NEVER ride your motorcycle anywhere, perhaps you might consider confining your "politically correct" comments to some other forum and leave the repair and upgrading of motorcycles to the people who are interested in repairing and upgrading their motorcycles!

I apologize to Ken for hijacking this thread, after all the man said he had a problem with his bike, I had the same problem and told him what I did to fix it, Isn't that what we are all here for? If I wanted to "hug trees" I'd join the Sierra Club.org, not VentureRider.Org.

My name is Earl Harrell (skydoc_17) and that's how I feel about this subject.

 

Interesting! I couldn't find any pics of skydocs mod though.

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The method of crankcase ventilation will have no effect on gas mileage.

The filter is fine where it is. Its primary job in your case is to simply filter crankcase blow by gases.

 

Personally, I never saw the need for the Skydoc kit.

 

Okay, need some answers here. The oil level in crankcase is just below half as suggested by the forum. I still have the crankcase vent tube (with little filter on end) going into the right side of cowling and upon coming back from a ride I had some oil leaking from the filter down the cowling which splattered onto my pants. This is not going to work for me! I also smell the gases from this hose. Here is my question. Does the breather tube have to be facing up or can i get a longer tube and snake it back and under towards the rear shock ( but maybe that's not a good idea since oil might get on the rear tire) I think with this engine being so old, I'm going to have some blow -by no matter what the oil level is. I don't know what to do but i do know that i don't want to go back to stock setup.

Any ideas? Skydocs method seems too tricky and tedious to do.

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