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I'd like to have my tail light(s) come on when I put the key in the ACCES position. Sometimes at night I pull over for whatever reason and don't want to keep my headlights and everything else on but want to have some lighting on. Most of my other bikes had a "PARK" position where the taillight would be lit. How can I accomplish this without hacking up too many wires? I'm thinking that I would have to relay off the radio as it is the only thing (I think) that is powered up in the ACCES position. What I don't know is what negative affects this could have once the bike is running. -
I've seen a couple of posts lately where 2nd gen owners have reported ignition coil failures. I think that both of those bikes were under warranty so you bet I would let Yamaha replace them. For those who are out of warranty though, there is an alternative. Dyna, same people who make the Dyna 2000..now 3000...ignition module also sell coils. If and when I ever need to replace my coils or wires, I will try the Dyna units. I know that Dyna makes quality products and I like the fact that the wires are not molded into the coils so you can change the wires when you need to. I'll never understand why Yamaha molded the wires into the coils on these bikes. Makes no sense at all to me.
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hi all, hope someone can help. i have a 89vr 1300. The stator went out on me i bought a new one. took housing off unplugged wires , replaced stator, replaced battery. went to start the bike and i got nothing. when turning the key on lights come on when hitting the start button lights go out. thats all it will do. Anybody got any idea's what could have happened? Yes i plugged the wires back in, yes i replaced the oil, yes new battery has a full charge.yes kill switch is in on postion, bike in neutral.
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Installing a Dyna 3000 module in a Royal Star Venture Thanks to Scott (Tartan Terror) for this great article. Remove seat form bike. After you do this you will need to remove the battery. Remove the cables first then remove the strap hold down. Be careful not to touch terminals together or they may spark. Also be careful to make note of where any accessory wires you have installed are routed. http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image002.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image004.jpg Remove the battery tray next. You will need to remove the two 12 mm bolts in front of the tray. Remove the positive and negative wires from the clips that hold them and gently lift the tray out of the way. For those of you that have other items behind the tray be careful not to pull that out and lift the tray out. With the tray out of the way you will see the module standing vertical held by two nuts against the front wall of the battery compartment. Loosen the wires so you can lift the module up and out. http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image006.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image008.jpg Next get your new module ready to install. The Dyna 3000 module has many settings so read the directions carefully and select the setup that suits how you intend to use it. I set mine to setting 3 and set the Rev limiter to 7250. This is done by setting the small white switches to the appropriate on and off pattern. Setting the switches will change the advance of the ignition and raise the rev limiter to a higher level. Stock is 6000 rpm but this is far below the Red Line. http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image010.jpg After Setting the switches remove the old module by removing the three connectors and plugging them into the appropriate sockets. You can’t mix them up as they will only go one way. http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image012.jpg Bolt the new module in the location that the old one came out of and put the battery tray back in. Once again remember to put your cables and wires back the way they came out and then install the Battery. Place the seat back on and you are ready to go. One thing I noticed is that after the new module was in I needed to adjust the idle as now it seemed to rev higher. If you need to this the knob is on the right side of the bike near the back carburetor under the tank. Now all you have to do is Ride it like you stole it.
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How To Install Your Own Hidden Garage Door Opener Have you ever come home and fumbled for the garage door opener in your pocket while trying to steer? One solution I used on my previous scoot was to velcro the opener to the handlebars. Looked kind of tacky plus I always had to remember to remove it when leaving the bike unattended. After I got my new ride ('06 Venture), I decided to make something more permanent and easy to use. Here is how I did mine. Your own installation will vary depending on where you want to locate things, but the concept is the same. You will need to split the faring for this procedure. 1) Go out and buy a small transmitter, or use a spare you might have around the house. The smaller the better, but don't go too small as it will be almost impossible to find the solder points you will need to get to on the inside. http://www.venturerider.org/garage/image002.jpg 2) Key your new transmitter to your garage door opener. Since every model is different I cannot begin to tell you here how to accomplish this. You will need to consult the manual for your particular brand. Once you have it keyed, test it. 3) Go to Radio Shack (or any electronics parts place) and get a Single Pole Momentary On pushbutton switch. The size, color and feel of the switch is strictly an individual choice. Attach 2 wires to the posts (solder is best) and shrink wrap (I shrink wrap everything). http://www.venturerider.org/garage/image004.jpg 4) Now pick a spot on the faring where you would like to have the button. Check locations when you are sitting on the bike to make sure that it is easily reachable and will not interfere with your operation of the bike. Once you have a location picked, make sure that the spot is reachable from the inside the faring. This picture shows mine under the left side. Since the button is black, it's hard to see. Look at the end of the arrow. http://www.venturerider.org/garage/image006.jpg One suggestion: Remove the transmitter battery before starting this next step. It will save you the trouble of having to explain to the neighbors why your garage is not possessed just because the door keeps opening and closing every few seconds. 5) Now open up the transmitter and find 2 contact points on the circuit board that are closed when you push the transmitter button. Solder 2 wires to these contact points and route the wires outside the body of the transmitter. I used a small round file to cut 2 notches in the case where it split to allow the wires to not get crimped when I reassembled the case. This process is what took me the longest to do, in all, about 1 hour to locate the traces and carefully solder wires to them. An ohmmeter is really useful for doing this. Once the case is reassembled (with the battery back in) you should have something like this. http://www.venturerider.org/garage/image008.jpg Test! Test! Test! If you have done everything correct to this point you should be able to touch the 2 bare ends of the transmitter wires together and your garage door should activate. If it does...congratulations!!! On to the next step. If not...go back to step 5 6) Drill a hole in the faring where you decided to locate the button and install it. A good idea is to put some silicone seal on the threads to keep the locknut from backing off. http://www.venturerider.org/garage/image010.jpg 7) Now find a convienent place for the transmitter to sit on the inside of the faring and mount it. I use sticky back velcro just in case I need to remove the thing one day. 8) Connect the two wires from the button to the two wires from the transmitter. Since this is just completing a circuit it does not really matter which wire goes to which. In my case, I just twisted them together and then shrink wrapped the connections. Tidy up the extra wire with a couple of wire ties. Test it again! Put everything back together and you're ready to go. http://www.venturerider.org/garage/image012.jpg
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I had a set of the OEM red reflectors that used to go on the rear crash bars until the bag rails were installed. Not wanting to waste them PLUS wanting a bit more light in the back (doesn't everyone?) I decided to remove the reflector part from the base (it is only double-sided taped on). Couple of plastic screws (made for plastic not made OUT of plastic! ) held them together. A little wiring from the Blue wire at the brake light connector by the battery and adding a ground finished it right up. I drilled holes in the back of the OEM reflector backing plate (not the part that hold the reflector) so that I could run the wires right underneath the bags and up under the seat. Haven't tried it at night yet but they are certainly visible in the day! 2 lights (incandescent) 'bout 8' of 16ga wiring (4' of black, 4' of red) 1 Scotchlock A bit of electrical tape to "harness" the wires together. Probably didn't spend but $10. Darn cheap and effective.
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Installing Harley Davidson License Plate Bracket Light Kit Submitted by Tartan Terror Anyone owning a Royal Star Venture knows full well the lack of good lighting on the rear of this motorcycle. Although I have seen may good ideas I chose the Harley Davidson license plate bracket with the incorperated taillights. Harley Davidson’s part number for this item is 68230-97A or 68230-97B. Both will work well and the only difference is that the “B” part number has a full backing behind the Plate portion. http://www.venturerider.org/hdlights/image002.jpg Step 1: Assemble the lamps onto the chrome bracket. The lamps are easily installed onto the frame and are held on by allen head bolts provided in the kit. You must also flatten the two raised nubs on the plate portion of the plate portion. After all assembled cut off the plug in connector as the Harley plug will not fit the RSV. http://www.venturerider.org/hdlights/image004.jpg Step 2: Remove the License Plate from the Venture and gently pull out the wires inside the pod behind the removed plate. Find the Blue and Yellow wires inside the pod. Next connect the Blue wire on the Harley lights to the to the Blue wire on the RSV. After doing this connect the Red wire on the Harley lights to the Yellow wire on the RSV. I connected the wires using a male female type of connector so I could take the lights off easily for repair or cleaning if need be. Note: If you test the lights after you have made these connections lights wont work. You must bolt the plate and lights to the bike to ground the lights! http://www.venturerider.org/hdlights/image006.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/hdlights/image008.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/hdlights/image010.jpg Step 3: Tuck wires into the pod carefully and Bolt plate frame to bike. Test lights at this point and if all is good you are finished! Lights will operate as brake and running lights and will add lots of great light on the rear! http://www.venturerider.org/hdlights/image012.jpg Here is the Finished product!!! (Sorry the Pic is a little dark) -
I just finish adding a trunk lid spoiler to my RSV, the installation went smoothly and I am happy as this is adding a lot of visibility to my motorcycle. The installation is straight forward but I would caution you not to follow the connection instructions, they say to open the connector and insert the wires into the female part and then put it back together. This is very risky for short and for connector damage, I would suggest removing the pins and soldering the wires on the pin then reinsert the pin in the proper slot.(see pictures)
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FAULTY IGNITION SWITCH Temporary Repair A few weeks back I stopped for gas, and when I turned the key on there was no electrical power, except for the radio. There was no lights on the dash, no headlights, or any other power, except for the radio. After checking all the fuses, which were okay, it was suggested the ignition switch could be the problem. To get to the ignition switch wires you will have to remove the seat and the top cover by the key (two Allen head bolts), and then remove the Fuel tank, by first removing the breather tube on the top of the tank, the electrical connection and the fuel line (under the tank). There are two Allen head bolts at the front on each side of the tank, and one bolt near the seat, before you can remove the Fuel tank. After removing the fuel tank there are two plastic covers on each side of the switch, which are held on by a small Phillips head screw and a plastic plug. http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image001.jpg Referring to the manual, Section 8 page 2 stated that switches could be tested for continuity. The manual states, on the main switch there should be continuity between the brown/blue wire and the red, and between the blue/yellow and blue/black wires, when the switch is turned on. I used a multi meter and started checking the wires for continuity. This should be done on the backside of the plug, to prevent damage to the plug connections. I found that I had continuity between the Blue/Yellow Wire and the Blue/Black Wires, however I did not have continuity on the Brown/Blue Wire and the Red wires. I used a 10-gauge wire and inserted it on the backside of the plug between the Brown/Blue Wire and the Red wires and then I had power on the dash and fuel pump started clicking. Therefore, I spliced the Red wire and the Brown/blue wires and connected a 10-gauge wire to the spliced ignition switch wires. I ran this new 10-gauge wire to the handlebars and connected these to a 50-amp single pole toggle switch, which I taped to the handlebars. Please note the 50-amp switch is most likely much larger than required. http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image003.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image005.jpg New Switch http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image007.jpg Wires (on new switch) http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image009.jpg When there is no continuity between the Brown/Blue wire and the red wire there will be no power, except for the radio. These wires close the circuit to the main fuse, battery, starter relay, starter motor, and the Start Switches (including the clutch, neutral, side stand, and stop switches).
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Does anyone have info on replacing the plug wires on a first gen? Can I go to resister wires and regular caps, and do I need 7, 8, or 8.5mm wires? I seem to remember a good tech article here BC, but can't find anything now. Gonna do a long trip in Sept and need to fix up the bike.
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Thanks to Cougar for this excellent write-up Installed the Electronic Connection AMP http://www.electricalconnection.com/audio/amp.htm The Install took about 6 to 8 hours. (with no beer) Start here and remove the seat/tank/passenger seat/front fairing/rear speakers. I had already installed upgraded speakers so I just took them off and put them there to work on. also you need to get that trunk cleaned out *LOL* remove the nylon purse thingy and that should get you ready. (MOUSE OVER THE PICS TO MAKE THEM LARGER) then mouse over again to make even larger ~S~ (bottom right) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_024.jpg (remove front of fairing) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_053.jpg (remove passenger seat) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_014.jpg (remove tank) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_005.jpg (remove driver seat) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_028.jpg (remove junk out of trunk , pad and the nylon junk holder) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_011.jpg (remove rear speakers) Then cut a "X" in that kewl rubber grommet that Yamaha Left for us to use and start running the wires like how I did if you want. (REMEMBER) THERE IS ONLY 25 FT I had 12 inches left over when finished! I used a 12 Gage High Strand Count wire for the Power and Ground they say run the ground short.. Its OK to run ground to the battery , worked fine for me. ( Phil at E/C says thats fine as well ) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment.jpg (cut a *X* hole on the grommet) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_013.jpg (start to run wires)(one at a time)(MARK THEM) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_043.jpg (wires running over the rear fender) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_018.jpg (wires running to beginning of drivers seat area) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_048.jpg (wires running under modulite and toward tank area) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_008.jpg (same) bad pic http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_009.jpg (wires starting to run from seat area to under tank) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_042.jpg (wires running under the tank area) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_030.jpg (wires running almost at front of tank now into the fairing) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_006.jpg (same pic darker) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_038.jpg (kind of not in order *oops* again running under the start of tank) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_022.jpg (12 Gage wire running back to trunk) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_045.jpg (same) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_020.jpg (wires running through that kewl hole under trunk) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_050.jpg (same) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_010.jpg (same) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_041.jpg (and up through hole in trunk) Now make sure your marking your wires with a sharpie number 1 for wire one. number 2 for wire 2 ect.. or mark black bands around them each time you run a Purple wire. (ON EACH END) run ONE AT A TIME! (then mark) the instructions are pretty clear. http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_025.jpg (same) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_016.jpg (left front speaker) #1 , the instructions will tell you How to wire these It's pretty simple! http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_040.jpg (same) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_023.jpg (solder and heat shrink) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_032.jpg (shrink) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_012.jpg (shrink more) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_019.jpg (make it pretty) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_049.jpg (now run to the trunk and find the wire you MARKED for left front speaker and do what it says on the label) I had no patients to solder all these wires. so I used the supplied connectors! http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_002.jpg speaker 3 (rear left) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_015.jpg (starting to look like a spider web or mess) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_047.jpg (get the power and ground and REM wire hooked up as well) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_029.jpg (same mess) Now for the Rest.. keep them wires nice and neat! look at the pics under the seat I have a modulite and ran a "U" shape under that then put the modulite back in it's place.. ALL the wires even the 12 Gage will fit in that Rubber Grommet. Also run the one wire it says to a Lights On Wire what ever one you pick the Unit will power on only when its hooked to a source like your lights when the key is on .. I chose this way because if I went to the AUX to power the AMP the engine isn't running and that might drain the battery pretty fast. (that wire will be the REM Wire. You will see if you decide to do this project. Place the AMP in the Trunk.. put it in any direction you wish It will run any way you wish.. I chose this way.. http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_046.jpg ( don't forget to adjust the Channels settings to about were it shows) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_037.jpg (same) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_036.jpg (make it all neat and pretty and put those back speakers in place) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_021.jpg (hook those ground and power wires up to the battery with a in-line fuse (supplied) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_051.jpg (your choice) on how you want the place the amp. If this way -remove that nylon holder thingy) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_031.jpg (I used a aluminum plate I had laying around,you could use a piece of plywood I bet) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_044.jpg (get this high power Velcro type stuff at Radio-Shack) (2 packages) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_026.jpg (start sticking) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_004.jpg (start sticking) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_034.jpg (start sticking) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_007.jpg (make pretty with the auto wire cover up stuff (3/4 Dia) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_039.jpg (keep making pretty) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_027.jpg (go go go ) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_052.jpg (damn that looks nice) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_035.jpg (wow it powered up) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_017.jpg (damn thats pretty) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_003.jpg (cut the carpet where that kewl hole for the wire were and put that back in) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_033.jpg (wow the helmets still fit in there) I removed the purse/web holder bracket and put the screws back in for the speaker pods.. them I had a aluminum plate and placed it over that part as you can see. USE THAT HEAVY VELCRO from Radio Shack.. then finish it up.. Turn Radio on and WOW.. Make sure you don't do what I did and not Adjust those dials first..(CH#1/2 - CH#3/4 ) the sound was worse *LOL* (notice in the Pic were I set mine for the Pioneers) still plenty of room left on the dial. After I did that.. Its amazing. and with the speakers I have now the Pioneers , that are pretty good. I still cant turn the AMP Watts any farther. so there is plenty of room to spare. Oh Yes notice that our helmets still fit in the trunk! (you don't need to use the black isolator on this bike there is no motor noise, popping or anything) Any Questions Feel Free to call Phil @ E/C great folks. Jeff
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