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Showing results for tags 'wires'.
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I been reading all the earlier post are audio and still confused My cass does not work, radio only on AM and CB dead dont care about CB I would like to do is pull all out.. amp tuner everything but, all those wires what do i do what them and which wires do i use? What is everyone making to fill the big hole if you pull everything out that looks nice? I like listening to FM and i guess i had to be able to down some music mp3 or ipod (haven't done that yet) What a good system to put in? and would i need a amp? My bike the only thing keeping me from a padded room and some music would really help This is 1st post hope it get to the right place. Thanks for any help and pictures would be great
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One of my harness customers found a video on YOU TUBE that recommended using the Hopkins-46255-Power-Taillight-Converter for connecting a 4 pin trailer harness to the 5 wire 2nd Gen Venture system, I reviewed the video and what info I could find on that converter and recommended that he purchase that unit as it should work. He has the Hoppy now but the color codes on his Hoppy do not match what the instruction sheet I found on line. I am sending him a harness in the morning, but I not able to help him determine which wires on the Hoppy connect to which wires on the harness. If the colors matched the instructions it would be easy, but his colors are different. Has any one else used the Hoppy 46255 on a 2nd Gen? Any help is appreciated.
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It all started innocently enough. The aluminum crank case covers look bad, so I removed them to polish them up, while I was at sea. I removed the water pump cover, clutch cover, plus the small rear one on the left side (transmission?). I couldn’t get the large front one (stator?) off at the time. While I was waiting for the gaskets to come in, I worked on the large cover. When I finally removed it a small gear fell out. I was able to put it back, hope it isn’t supposed to be in a certain way. I went to remove the screws holding the wires to the cover but no luck. I have the right size screwdriver, but they won’t move. I stopped before I stripped the heads, but I think it won’t take much force before they are striped. What is the easiest way to get these screws out? I can’t get the cover to my workbench, as it is still attached to the bike by the wires. It is free to move around as I try to break the screws free. I tried hammering on the screwdriver while twisting, but was getting nowhere. Help I don't know where to go from here. Bill
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For the most part, at anything above idle, my stock voltage gauge reads 14ish. Lately, it's been getting up there but it seemed a bit random. Tonight, I checked the wires leading to the R/R and man...did I ever get there just in time. One of the wires from the 3 prong plug had gotten so hot, it not only melted the plug, it heated up the connector enough to slide out of the crimp. One slight tug and it came completely free. I have been going over my bike and re-seating and greasing plugs as I come to them...I was planning on doing this anyway but damn...there was some serious puckering happening when I saw that bare wire. I pulled all the connectors out of the burned and melted plug, cleaned them up and plugged the wires together, without the plug, and insulating them. A quick startup showed the volts at around 14...right off of idle and steady as a rock no matter the load. Moral of the story; check those plugs. If you catch them in time, you may save yourself the time and effort of getting stranded and buying a new R/R. -
I have nothing displaying on my cmu. Not even when turning ignition on, when it should go thru each item. It was working a month or two ago, but now nothing. Is there a common power wire for the display? The display lights up with the dash lights, but displays nothing else. While putting the bike back together, I did put a small gauge black ground wire on the positive battery terminal. (lesson learned: put down the tools when talking to your 8 year old daughter) The wire melted down, and i followed it to the main negative cable. It was in a factory crimp with a few other grounds. After that, I have had to run new wires on the taillights and brake lights on the positive side, not the ground. No fuses blew, and i don't see any other fried wires. Maybe some damaged wires that I can't see in the harness some where? Time for a harness? Coincidence? sun spots? UFO's?? :confused24: -
last night i was having issues with not all cylinders running at the same time, i had no to low fire on a rear cylinder so i popped of the cap while running to see if the was any change in idle. and as soon as the cap cleared the plug i got some good zaps so it would seem my caps and wires are no good. where can i get the best replacement? -
I'm going over my 87 Standard, trying to resolve this miss that the ol' gal acquired. While I'm at it, I'm changing the carb diaphragms, which has needed done for a while, small holes in the first two I changed out. (A much easier job than I thought it'd be) I got a set of replacement spark plug wires, and a set of used coils on the way just in case I need one. The coils don't seem easily accessible, and I'll need to get at them to replace the wires, and I'd like to check the coils themselves while I'm at it. Do I need to remove the entire fairing, or can I get at them by removing the battery or what? I'm sure if I do a search I'll find the checkout procedure for the coils, but if anyone knows the quick and dirty on that, please lemme know. I'll also take a look at the plug for the TCI that I've seen mentioned so much. Any info on not making more of a job of this than need be would be appreciated. Thanks. -
hello everyone my trobles still contuines i replaced the stater cover gaskit leaking real bad went to start bike will not start i did not disconect the wires to anything any ideals what to ck i pulled a plug no spark bumble bee 1999 rsv
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It appears I need a stator.. or I think I do. I changed the regulator for the new one and still no charge. When we test the stator with the bike running and the 3 white wires disconnected we get voltage across any combination of 18 to 40 or more AC depending on the RPM so we thought the stator was fine. BUT if we do a continuity test to ground each of the 3 wires are grounding to the bike which I believe they should not be doing.. So If I need a new stator (the one in is was a new one from Montreal 3 years ago) Which one should I get and from where. Skydoc is reluctant to sell me one of his because I have a Mk1 and apparently the cooling is not as efficient so it could burn out. Any ideas are welcome.. any solution would be helpful... Soon would be good as well due to it being riding season and my better half is already complaining. The bike left us stranded 500 Kms from home and it has NEVER failed us like this before. Actually had to trailer it home.. She groaned about that I'm sure Would really like to have a high output IF POSSIBLE..
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I'm helping a friend with his 83 venture, not charging, at all. At the 3 white wires from the stator, I am getting between 9-11 volts on all white wires, however, when I measure from any white wire from the stator to grd, I am getting continuity. As I understand, there should be no continuity from the stator wires to grd. Also, I have tested the diodes in the rectifier, with a DVOM on the diode test position, and I have continuity in both directions, on all diodes except 2. Again, as I understand, there should only be continuity in one direction of a diode, so that fails the r/r as well. My question is, am I right in these conclusions, or am I missing something. Also, I think this is an aftermarket r/r. It has the 3 white wires, 2 black wires and 2 red wires. Also, there is no brown wire, which I read in previous posts, this is a voltage sense wire for the factory original r/r, not the aftermarkets. All comments will be appreciated, thanks. -
2007 RSV, been mine nearly 3 weeks. All the lights worked for a while, I assume the rain might have affected something, about 1.5hrs in the rain, noticed a couple days later no passing lights, so maybe or maybe not related. The lights are good, all the fuses that are shown in the owners manual are good. I have a push button switch just left of the 12v acc. plug in the dash that I think may be for these lights, there is no toggle on the light housing like some Ive read about. I can see 2 red wires that arent in the harness going that direction, but I stopped before taking anything loose on the fairing. What is involved to look at this closer? anyone else have a setup like this?
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My '83 Royale with cruise fried the plunger on the brake light switch. I mistakenly ordered the two wire switch, when,of course, I NEED the four wire switch. Given that the four wire switch is several times the cost of the two wire switch, is there some way to use the two wires for the brake light, and do something else with the other two wires to fool the cruise into working? Possibly tying them together to complete the circuit, or applying 12V to one or the other? Any help greatly appreciated!
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Hi everyone New guy here. I have an '83 Venture Royale with factory cruise control. I need a new front brake light switch. The one I received from Yamaha has only two wires, while the existing one on the bike has 4 wires, and runs through a small block (resistor or capacitor?) before plugging into a four gang block in the headlight shell. The Yamaha dealer I spoke with couldn't find any reference to the different switch, or a part number for it. Anyone had this same problem??
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Just starting to "button" it up and only thing left is the engine guard brace. Projects this winter were : => connect Zumo 660 (with Buddy Rich cable) => add fuse block and rewire passing lights and trailer to it => connect gps tracking device => add "cigarette lighter"/accessory connection => connect battery tender quick disconnect For the Zumo... the cradle has wires that are long enough to go into the fairing. With the length of cable supplied with the Buddy Rich cable I ended up having extra wire in the fairing so put some velcro on the inside of the back of the fairing and tie wrapped the cables (with velcro) and stuck it to the backside of the fairing. The fuse block is a ganged 6 fuse ATC so it has : Stebel horn; passing lights; gps; gps tracker; accessory outlet; and trailer connected. Full already ! Slipped in behind the battery. You might be able to see in the picture I put labels on the block showing what was connected and the amp fuse to use (except for the tracker) and labelled the wires as well. In running the wires from the block to the fairing I used split tubing to protect the wires and make them look nice where visible. For the GPS tracking device, it comes with an adapter which I attached to the back fairing using velcro and slipped the tracker under the cassete deck and used velcro again to keep it from rattling/moving. The accessory connection is straight to the fuse block. I didn't use the factory connector under the seat. I might reposition the battery tender connection but for now it is easy to get to.
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DA WORK! Blinking LED Side Markers
Cougar posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Thanks to Bill aka Wanna he figured out and helped me set up the relay so that the side markers will also blink/flash , they also work with the emergancy as well. the wires hanging were for my test before I button it up right. enjoy. Jeff -
This is hopefully the last thing I have to do before getting this bike finally on the road. Looking for advice so I don't remove anything unnecessary. What all do I have to remove to get all the plug wires changed out? Thanks. -
I have a short in my light bar. (I guess that's what you call it...The chrome bar that holds the turn signals and the ?Fog lights? They are on sometimes and off sometimes. It is not the switch (which seems to be built on to the cigarette lighter. When they are working, the switch will turn them on and off; but when they are not working, turning the switch on and off several times, never brings them back online. I have removed the seat and jiggled wires and never got the lights to go on or off or even flicker. Even when they are not working, everything else on the bike works, even the front turn signals which are attached to the light bar. My next plan of action is to open the fairing and trace the wires. Just thought I would ask about this, in case there was some common problem that was known and someone could point me in that direction. Thanks dana
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My headlight has lost it's brightness. At first it was only on the dim side now both high and low beams are not working correctly. THe headlight indicator on the dash is lit also. When this first started happening I could reach in and move the wires behind the headlight and it would work now nothing. I can not see any broken or frayed wires. THere are many things I can do but electrical is not high on that list. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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My original caps did not fail internally. But had oxidized from age. And due to the high cost of the OEM caps. I replaced them with NGK caps and new copper core wires. NOW-After having ALL my NGK replacement caps fail internally with little mielage on them. Which I posted on another thread. FYI- This will happen to them all. They are junk. NOW, I am wondering if anyone has found 7mm graphite or other wires with RUBBER caps like older cars use...that fit properly on our small (in automobile terms) spark plugs??? I know we are to have some resistance in the wires or caps....thus graphite type is my 1st thought. -
I thought this might be of interest to you GL1800 0wners. Installation is fairly easy. 1 Remove the screw through the bottom of the housing. You'll need a good phillips screwdriver, the factory screw has loctite. 2 Wiggle the mirror while pulling it toward you. It will slide out eventually. On the bench the factory mirror is on the right. 3 Mirror housing with mirror removed. 4 From the front of the motorcycle, peel back the rubber boot to expose the wires and connector. 5 The wires are long enough to pull out in order to install the supplied harness. You have to lift the catch on the factory connector to disconnect it. 6 New harness connected, ready to fish through to the inside of the mirror housing. 7 Muth mirror turn signal connector protruding into the mirror housing. A little tricky to get it in there, just be patient and work with it. 8 Wires connected, I have them on top to better show them. Actual installation was with wires laying on the bottom of the housing. The extra length of wire was pulled back to the outside of the mirror housing and stored inside the fairing by the rubber boot. 9 Carefully slide the assembly into place, making sure the two tabs at the top are properly inserted into the factory bracket. Install the supplied screw. Viola!!! A turn signalling mirror.
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I'm still here!!! No Internet for three days!! How many were celebrating??? Thought you got rid of me didn't you!!! "Former" contractor chopped wires that go to phone and Sat wires. When it rained and it ran down the wires everything went out!! Phone went out,Internet went out and TV went out!!! What did we ever do before these things. I ain't telling how the Warden and I passed all that time with it cold and raining outside.... But I'm Still Here!!! Did I mention she cheats at cards???
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bike is stumbling at idle, dropping down in rpms, them back up. over and over. bike is warm. i replaced the plugs, relatively new wires, new to me tci. any ideas? -
I have a 91 venture royale 1300. The computerized monitor, fuel gauge, and clock along with the computer leveling air suspension system is blank and does not work. I am wondering if this is a computer problem? I have traced the wires on the leveling system and they seem to be ok. The only thing that is displayed on that is the PSI sign itself. Nothing else will show. The actual pressure of the front and rear will not display. I can not set the pressure or check the pressure with the automatic adjust on the monitor. It is separate from the cluster on the dash and that is why I am wondering if it is a computer problem? I did buy a instrument cluster on ebay, just in case mine was bad. I did not really think it was, but I got the cluster for 26 bucks and was told everything worked on it. I figured it was a good investment as I have seen them go for 100-800 bucks on ebay. As cheap as I got it for I figured it was worth it as it might come in handy some time. I am leaning towards it being a computer problem tho. Everything to do with a computer read on this bike does not work. Fuel gauge, clock, suspension psi etc. I have not gotten the cluster out yet to trace wires, but have on the leveling system. Everything else works on this bike. All electrical, gauges, lights etc. Anyone have any input on what I need to look for on trouble shooting the computer? Thanks in advance for any input. I intend on tracing the wires on the dash and repairing and fixing any wire or connections as I do, but I am thinking this is a computer problem as it effects other things related to the computer that is not in the cluster. I have this half way tore down tracing wires and it has been a nightmare so far.... -
I am gonna sue the makers of canned spray foam for not putting in bold letters that it should not be used bye idiots. I rewired my trailer to head to Vogel and the flex conduit they used was held in place with spray foam, well after running the wires I picked up a can to reset the wires and I thought I would just use my fingers to spread it out, did I mention I was on my back, so now I have spray foam all over my hands and I rolled in some that dripped on the driveway ( did I mention this stuff takes hair off better than wax) now I have hairless spots on my arms and foam on my fingers I can't get off. If only I had a brain.
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1984 Venture Royale. Picture makes it look nicer that it really is. Missing tour pack and few mounting tabs for the plastics. Also there is a medium length crack in the fairing below the mirror. Best thing is I paid $700 dollars and it only 13,1xx miles. Radio works (1 speaker), cruise works analog/digital gauges work and air suspension also. Original owner passed away 2 years ago and spent most of the time in his garage being banged up. Purchased 2 years ago by the seller I got it from and he only put 400 miles on it. I was originally looking for a gl1200 after getting rid of my Electra glide classic and road king in the past two years to play around on the cheap, but I felt the price on this bike was too good to pass up. It does not get good gas mileage and does not seem to have a lot of power or I thought it was going to feel stronger than it does. Seems to run fine, but lacks resposiveness off of idle when starting from a stop. Plugs, filter and oil were just changed by the previous owner. He has been running sea foam in the tank for the last fifty miles in preparation to sell the bike. Plug wires look bad with tape and the such so I want to change them. Almost feels like it only runs on two cylinders and the two rear header pipes do not get very hot. It got about 26.5 mpg on the first tank for me. Obviously my biggest gripe is the power and mpg. Since I will start first with plug wires, do these bikes have individual wires to plug from the coil that I can replace or are they built into the voil and require cutting? If I can just buy wires, who are the best retailers for this bike? Another gripe I have is the front brakes are inadequate. Previous owner did pads on the front and back, bake brakes are great fronts feel like they are glazed. Maybe they are glazed or is this the nature of the beast? Are new rotors available? I know the pegs are adjustable, but not enough for me. Who sells a nice highway peg so I can stretch out on long rides? This motor puts off some heat going down the road, wow was not expecting that yamaha routed the hot air to hit your legs while driving. Can the 2 holes on each side of the fairing by the rear cylinders be covered or are they required to properly cool the bike? Tks and I'm sure I will have many more questions. [img]http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p75/jurob_2006/photo5.jpg[/img]
