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  1. Hi everyone! So I figured that I wanted to make my first post a good one, so here it is. Pics at the bottom. I had been looking into my options for a tachometer for quite sometime and was rather unimpressed with the steep price tag and the style of the available motorcycle tach's. So I did some internet hunting and found a company based out of Michigan that makes Retro style tachometers for classic and muscle cars. You can find them at Classic Instruments. I thought to myself, oh now wouldn't that look good on my RSTD. Before I knew it, I was whipping out my cards to make a purchase online. With a lots of humming and hawing about which model to get, I ended up getting the All American Nickel 3-3/8" Tachometer and the chrome cup insert. Total $198US. Took about 4 days to ship to Canada! Not bad eh~! http://www.classicinstruments.com/images/products/AN80SHC.JPGhttp://www.classicinstruments.com/images/Tach%20Cup.jpg Once I received my new purchase I went to work right away. However, I had to really think about where to mount it, how to mount it and how to get it to work. So in case if anyone is wondering, read on. First off, where to mount it. I have a Uniq Cycle Classic speakers system (long story, I have the system but I currently waiting for a replacement amp because the first one was faulty. Not happy with those guys.) that will occupy the left and right portions of the handle bar, so that was a no-go. I decided to mount it dead-center about the speedometer display because that would give me enough space to not interfere with the windshield. Second, how to mount it. I was stumped for a while on this one. One of the problems was the chrome cup insert was far too long. If I were to mount it, the tach would stick way out over the front of the speedometer unit. I noticed that the tach itself was quite a bit shorter than the cup, so I decided to cut the cup insert down. I cut about an inch or so from the opening. I also cut down the screws (the ones that you bolt on the wiring to) on the back of the tachometer to shorten it down some more. After the trimming work I had reduced the length on the tach enough for the front of the gauge to sit flush with the speedometer unit. I spent a good amount of time trying to figure out a way of fixing the tach to the top of my speedometer without having to drill holes or welding to the pretty speedo casing. So I took an old stainless steel stirring ladle from the kitchen and went to work bending it into shape. I apologize for not taking step-by-step photos of the process, I was just... lets say... in the groove. I ended up bending the ladle with a slight arc, following the curve of the speedo casing, and a sharp 'S' shaped bend at the end. I drilled a hole in at the end of the 'S' shape and easily mounted it to the one screw that holds the speedo casing in the front (if you stand right in front of your bike and look at the speedo casing, you will see the bolt). The ladle works perfectly because it has a slight curve to it already and it follows the curve on the speedo casing. I then took the cup insert and the ladle and welded them together. I would assume that you could use some kind of adhesive or jb-weld. But since I have a MIG that I am always trying to find uses to justify its purchase, it was quick work . It was a simple one bolt job from there to permanently but non-destructively fix the tach to my bike. Third, the wiring. Not fun trying to figure this one out on your own. I will just write down what was the winning combination. Then tachometer has a 4 position selection screw on the back for calibrating. 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, 8 cylinder, 12PALT. Sorry V-Twin friends, this mod is only for us!. I basically ran a wire from the 'signal' terminal on the back of the tach to the ignition wiring. It runs with many of the wires that are located above the ignition coils. The one you want is the only wiring harness that is made up of just two wires, white and black. I hooked up the signal wire to the white wire, set the tach calibration to 12PALT and SUCCESS! For me, the 12PALT setting works. It does act a little funny at about 4000 rpm while accelerating, where the needle with suddenly retreat slightly and the advance forward. Now I know there are other ways to set up the tachometer. Classic instruments sells a multiple ignition coil adapter gadget, or there is this one that you can build yourself. I'm going to live with my setup because its totally livable in my books. I also wanted to have a nice clean look for the tachometer wiring, and didn't want any ugly wiring exposed. I tried to look for some nice 'chrome' plastic wire covering but couldn't find any. So I ended up going to the plumbing section at the local Canadian Tire and buying a 20" braided steel flexible hose. I cut off each of the screw ends and slipped the wiring through it (I bought a pack of trailer automotive wire while I was at crappy tire for the tach wiring). I slipped one end of the steel hose through the rubber grommet that is supplied with the tachometer and the other end of steel hose around the speedo unit and into the steering cover. From there you just wire up the tach + and - terminals to the auxiliary wiring harness that is located under the seat. I also jumped a wire from the + terminal to the 'light' terminal on the tach, which keeps the tach light on all the time. I will try to take some night-time pictures. From there I just bought a small tube of silicone caulking/adhesive and put it around the rubber grommet, braided steel hose, tachometer and cup, and between the bottom of the cup insert and the speedometer casing. The last one is important, it prevents the tach cup assembly from scratching the speedo casing, and it eliminates and noise from vibration. The tachometer unit does not interfere with the windshield in any way so it can be used with or without it. One thing that I did notice that when I went for a ride on a hot day, I got a bit of condensation on the inside of the gauge glass. I remedied that by drilling two holes on either side of the gauge just behind the glass. This should prevent the build up of condensation. It also allows you to use a can of compressed air to clean any condensation that may build up (and it works really well too!). All in all it was a successful modification. I am really happy with my cool retro tach, its easy to read (due to its large size) easy to see placement, and its lower price point. http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8552.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8554.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8553.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8545.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8547.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8564.jpg?t=1276000546
  2. We have the standard 6 ft. fence in the backyard, and a few months ago, I heard about burglaries increasing dramatically in the entire city. To make sure this never happened to me, I got an electric fence and ran a single wire along the top of the fence. Actually, I got the biggest cattle charger Tractor Supply had, made for 26 miles of fence. I then used an 8 ft. long ground rod, and drove it 7.5 ft. into the ground. The ground rod is the key, with the more you have in the ground, the better the fence works. One day I'm mowing the back yard with my cheapo Wal-Mart 6 hp big wheel push mower. The hot wire is broken and laying out in the yard. I knew for a fact that I unplugged the charger. I pushed the mower around the wire and reached down to grab it, to throw it out of the way. It seems as though I hadn't remembered to unplug it after all. Now I'm standing there, I've got the running lawnmower in my right hand and the 1.7 giga-volt fence wire in the other hand. Keep in mind the charger is about the size of a marine battery and has a picture of an upside down cow on fire on the cover. Time stood still. The first thing I notice is my pecker trying to climb up the front side of my body. My ears curled downwards and I could feel the lawnmower ignition firing in the backside of my brain. Every time that Briggs & Stratton rolled over, I could feel the spark in my head. I was literally at one with the engine. It seems as though the fence charger and the piece of lawnmower were fighting over who would control my electrical impulses. Science says you cannot crap, pee, and vomit at the same time. I beg to differ. Not only did I do all three at once, but my bowels emptied 3 different times in less than half of a second. It was a Matrix kind of bowel movement, where time is creeping along and you're all leaned back and BAM BAM BAM you just crap your pants 3 times. It seemed like there were minutes in between but in reality it was so close together. It was like exhaust pulses from a big block Chevy turning 8 grand. At this point I'm about 30 minutes (maybe 2 seconds) into holding onto the fence wire. My hand is wrapped around the wire palm down so I can't let go. I grew up on a farm so I know all about electric fences. But Dad always had those pieces of chargers made by International or whoever that were like 9 volts and just kinda tickled. This one I could not let go of. The 8 ft. long ground rod is now accepting signals from me through the permadamp Ark-La-Tex river bottom soil. At this point I'm thinking I'm going to have to just man up and take it, until the lawnmower runs out of gas. 'Damn!,' I think, as I remember I just filled the tank! Now the lawnmower is starting to run rough. It has settled into a loping run pattern as if it had some kind of big lawnmower race cam in it. Covered in poop, pee, and with my vomit on my chest, I think 'Oh God please die... Pleeeeaze die'. But nooooo, it settles into the rough lumpy cam idle nicely and remains there, like a big bore roller cam EFI motor waiting for the go command from its owner's right foot. So here I am in the middle of July, 104 degrees, 80% humidity, standing in my own backyard, begging God to kill me. God did not take me that day. He left me there covered in my own fluids to writhe in the misery my own stupidity had created. I honestly don't know how I got loose from the wire. I woke up laying on the ground hours later. The lawnmower was beside me, out of gas. It was later on in the day and I was sunburned. There were two large dead grass spots where I had been standing, and then another long skinny dead spot where the wire had laid while I was on the ground still holding on to it. I assume I finally had a seizure and in the resulting thrashing had somehow let go of the wire. Upon waking from my electrically induced sleep I realized a few things: 1 - Three of the fillings in my teeth have melted. 2 - I now have cramps in the bottoms of my feet and my right butt cheek (not the left, just the right). 3 - Poop, pee, and vomit when all mixed together, do not smell as bad as you might think. 4 - My left eye will not open. 5 - My right eye will not close. 6 - The lawnmower runs like a ----------- now. Seriously! I think our little session cleared out some carbon fouling or something, because it was better than new after that. 7 - My nuts are still smaller than average yet they are almost a foot long. 8 - I can turn on the TV in the game room by farting while thinking of the number 4 (still don't understand this???). That day changed my life. I now have a newfound respect for things. I appreciate the little things more, and now I always triple check to make sure the fence is unplugged before I mow. The good news, is that if a burglar does try to come over the fence, I can clearly visualize what my security system will do to him, and THAT gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling all over, which also reminds me to triple check before I mow.
  3. I'm trying to figure out what everything is before replacing my fuse box (I ordered the kit SkyDoc sells in classifieds). I've got a couple of items that don't make sense to me and maybe you can help. First off, there's a device that's attached to both terminals. I suspect it might be a noise reducer or some such, but it would be nice if someone knows for sure. The other is a blue wire that terminates on the Batt. + and then is connected to a White/Red wire in the main harness behind (or in front of) the battery. I disconnected it from the battery and everything 'seems' to work OK. Again, I'd appreciate any input here... http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n163/coy55boy/83%20Venture%20Royale/fusepanel.jpg
  4. I got a 4 brush VMaxstarter off Ebay for my Venture. $60 with shipping. Came off a 92 with 26k miles on it. Sandblasting and powder coating will clean it up like new. 1990 and newer 1st gen VMax's have the 4 brush starter. There have been a few questions on here about this starter. It should crank better than the stock Venture 2 brush starter. Doing the grounding wire mod will be harder to do, since there is not much room on the brush plate to attach the additional ground wire. Also shown is a stock 2 brush starter brush plate for comparison. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/DSC00937.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/DSC00936.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5143s.jpg
  5. well went and picked up the bike tonight. they said they changed where they wired the passing light in from the red wire with white strip to the blue wire like the install paper said to do. They said ride for 150 miles bring it back so they can check the battery. We will see. I told them if this does not fix they will need to call Yamaha as this is the 3rd time it has been in the shop for Battery going dead.
  6. well I took the bike back in to the local Yamaha's shop for the third time. It left me on the side of the road 2 times and did at home 1 time. Battery dead again. This is all from when they put the running lights on. I looked and they hooked into the red wire with white line on it. I think that is the ignition wire. the instructions say hook up to the blue. after a new battery a new regulator now they say thats it. we will find out?We have the lemon law in this stat I wounder it goes for motorcycles?
  7. I just bought Dart trailer. It has the square 5 pin connector. Can anyone lead me to the path of righteousnous on how to wire this up to my 2007 RSV? Randy
  8. I am looking for a junk headset that someone may want to part with. I need the mic from one that goes in an open face helmet. I have a new Elite series 584 for a full face and the mic is just a wire so I need to have the boom mic so I can attach it to it for an open face. Hope this all makes sense.
  9. I have a tach that is for a 4,6 or 8 cylinder hookup. Where should I attach the lead wire (Grean for signal) from the tach? The rest of them are self explanatory its just the lead wire I am somewhat confused about. TIA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  10. I installed an AGM battery and to turn off battery warning light I just sniped off the probe and connected the wire to a positive terminal of the fuse box and it seems to work fine. I just read the mod in the First Gen tech library and the post said to use a resister in the line before hooking the wire to a positive terminal. Is there some reason a resister should be used?
  11. I am trying to figure out the problem that is been confusing me. I have had my carbs cleaned and was still having an issue so I pulled the wire off of the right rear plug and put in another and placed it to the block to check for a spark. I noticed a small spark when I turn bike over than stopped until I reached 4500rpm then recieved a big spark. repeated the same test to theleft rear and noticed no spark at all. Would this be a wire or coil issue? I have a 1985 Venture royale 1200 cc
  12. Not Bike related, but some of you may be interested. My wife bought a Humming Bird feeder last month. I hung it on a wire from a tree limb, close to the house, and never seen a bird around it. A friend told me that it has to be hung away from tree limbs. So, Saturday, I moved it and hung it on a wire from the soffit, under the rain gutter, in front of the large bay window. And this morning there was two humming birds feeding. Really an interesting sight. I didn't know we even had these birds in the neighborhood. It sure attracts them. The feeder is first filled with water, then add sugar and some red food coloring. Works like a charm. Now I've got a new unique hobby!
  13. I ride an 08 tour deluxe, I keep blowing the headlight fuse. I have installed passing lights wired in according to instructions (no relay). I also have it wired for a trailer. My question is this. If i keep shorting out headlight due to driving lights, shouldnt the driving lights go out as well? They stay on, and I wasnt pulling trailer either time when it happened. Besides each trailer wire has its own fuse, unless short is in behind license plate. I am guessing pinched wire near handlebars? Just looking for ideas on where to start when it gets light out. Thanks in advance....
  14. can clearance lights "led" be wired to act as run/turn signal only ?? want to put some on side of trailer but only as run/turn, no brake. have 4 wire set up with 5 to 4 conversion on bike. any thoughts??
  15. So- I finally decided to build a bike! It may take a while, but eventually I'll get it right! Here's a pic of what I have so far: http://www.nps.gov/plants/sos/training/typicalshipment/images/Step%2001%20Empty%20Box.jpg But seriously folks, my old man has an basket case FXDWG that needs to be put together, and he's agreed if I build it, I can ride it until he sells it. So if you have any spare building materials laying around let me know! The building is done, I just have to insulate it, wire it, and do the interior walls. It won't be a Venture, but considering the pickle I'm in (identity theft, baby on the way, and return of the inguinal hernia) I'm not gonna be too picky!
  16. I bought a Street Magic load equalizer and set of 4 LED turn signals from a friend for my 2nd gen. The SM load equalizer has 4 wires; purple wire to left, brown wire to right, orange wire to positive, and black wire to negative. Everything works fine but when I turn on the CB and I turn on the left or right turn signal I get a lot of static over the speakers. The orange wire connected to the positive wire is connected to the blue tail light wire. I disconnected the orange wire and connected it straight to the positive battery post and the CB does the same thing. I took the black wire and connected it to the negative battery post and it does the same thing. I disconnected the Street Magic and of course my turn signals flash fast but the static is gone. If I get load equalizers off ebay I will need four. Does anyone know if I need 25 watt 60 ohms or do I need 50 watt 60 ohms or does it matter. Anybody have any ideas on either system??? Thanks, Harry
  17. I finally got my new to me trailer "thanks roadkill" wired up tonite and i'll say it was real easy. However when i started reading howto's by other members i thought it would be difficult. Some of ya made it way to complicated and intimidating but after a while i said screw it and did it this way... bought a "CALTERM" # 08079 tailight converter 5 wire to 4 wire spliced them in under the seat by the battery and wala i got lights. the beauty of the calterm is the converter is in the plug in where the the trailer plug goes so you don't need to get all fancy with splices and sh%& like that. so easy a caveman could do it....... "me" oh ya only $13.99 !!!!
  18. Anybody here have experience with wire welders? I am currently looking for a welder to use around our place. I just want something to use now and then for light duty repairs. I do want a welder that uses 115 volt. I see that you can buy welders that use flux core wire and they say no need for gas. Then others use gas. I don;t know enough about these to know which is best. Of course then you have the stick welders and I guess that is a whole different type. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  19. I've done sea foam twice and sync'd the carbs, installed new plugs. I rode about 105 miles or so today so next I'm going to pull the plugs to see how they look. OK...so I have the side cases off to do the carb sync and change plugs. I've just received the Plastex kit so I rode with the plastic off while I work on them. Tonight I went for a ride and kept getting a "pricking" feeling to my inner thigh. I thought it might have been a sharp end of a cable tie or a wire twist tie sticking me but after a few checks to see what it could be I realized it was the spark plug wire giving me minor zaps! (both left and right) So...perhaps a stupid question...but does that mean I most certainly need new plug wires? But I'm getting 34 mpg (US) or 6.1 L/100 km or 40.8 miles per Can. gal. and that was at least 3/4 of the time doubled up! SO....I now am thinking my bike is not doing so bad....and that it just isn't the powerhouse that SOME PEOPLE (who shall remain nameless eh Yammer Dan???) is just putting us on about these 1st gens being such an amazing powerhouse!
  20. Well I just did the clutch upgrade on my '09 RSTD with about 1700 miles on it. Took about 2 hours altogether including cleanup and pulling the discs out after realizing I left the washer in there. Good thing I checked the excellent writeup on the site to make sure I was on the right track. All in all it was not to hard but I did worry when I got to the wire, was not sure how to get that out without breaking it. The half disc was hard to get out because it is in there so deep. Any way the clutch pull is a little harder as people have said. I think the friction zone is slightly larger but it engages later on in the travel. I think that is a function of it grabbing better. Any way time will tell. Not sure how you would be able to get that wire back in there if you were to go back to stock. David
  21. First of all I want to thank all the members of Venturerider.org. After 20 years of not riding a motorcycle I finally decided to start riding again. I wanted a full dress cruising machine and started looking at what was out there. I ran across a very nice 1983 Yamaha venture. I loved the look of the bike so I started researching it. I came across Venturerider very quickly and read a ton of information. After all the reading I purchased the bike. I did know 2nd gear was out when I purchased the bike and understood what was required to fix it. After riding the bike I decided I wanted 2nd gear to work. Again I read everything I could find on the subject and also everything about what engines were affected and when Yamaha corrected this gear issue. I also looked into what was involved in swapping out a 1200 engine with the newer 1300. I found only a small amount of information on the subject of engine swap. I then found a 1988 Venture 1300cc engine with only 30k miles for $350 bucks. With this find I decided it was worth trying to swap engines no matter haw much modification was required. Here is what I found out about putting an ’88 1300cc engine into a ’83 1200cc bike, Fit - the engine bolts up perfectly. Exhaust - the 1200 exhaust fits perfectly. YICS - the 1200 YICS chamber is not needed on the 1300 so leave it off Carburetors - the 1200 carburetors appear to work perfectly. I only have a few hundred miles on it now so I will continue to monitor this. Radiator - The ’83 radiator lower hose fitting is weak. It came off with the hose. I could have had it repaired at a radiator shop but I found a good ’88 radiator for 40 bucks. The ’88 has this area reinforced. Thermostat - It appears the thermostat for all Ventures are no longer available from Yamaha and I was surprised to fine no information on this on Venturerider. After extensive research I found only one thread on another site that indicated that the Napa Parts thermostat number 156 will fit like the original and works just fine. I compared the Napa 156 with the original and decided to use it. The original has a small vent hole with a weight to help bleed the air out when filling the cooling system. If it makes you fill better you can drill a small 1/32” hole to match the original. I chose not to do this. The cooling system filled fine and works perfectly. The temperature gauge now stays right in the middle. Starter – the 1200 starter fits and works perfectly. Electrical – You will need an electrical schematic for the 1200 and the 1300 to get it right. The generator lead connector and the pick up lead connector fit perfectly. The Neutral indicator wire for the 1200 bike is a single black and yellow wire. The 1300 engine has a multi wire plug. In this plug there is a ski blue wire that is the neutral indicator. I made the single wire from the bike into a spade connector and inserted it into the ski blue slot on the multi wire connector. I then sealed this complete plug with shrink tube and electrical tape to keep the dirt out. The oil level indicator connects to the only singe wire coming from the 1300 engine. I did not take the time to find out what the other wires in the 1300 multi conductor are for. I did not really care because my ’83 doesn’t require them. After swapping the engine I balanced the carbs and cleaned and adjusted everything. The bike and engine combination are fantastic – I love this bike and can not wait to put many miles under its wheels. Thanks again to all the members at Venturerider.org.
  22. Didn't have anything quite wide enough to plug the AIS, so I got the biggest tapered wire nut I had in the workshop, wrapped the outside of it a few times with duct tape to make it snug in the hole, and then duct taped over the plug after insertion before reattaching the hose. Works like a charm! Didn't do the front AIS yet, but I'll use the same thing when I do my next oil and filter change and can get to it easier. Go me!
  23. Was wondering if anyone has run into this before. I just resurrected a pristine 1984 venture 20k original miles, the bike was a mess when I got it but she's alive and kickin. I rebuilt carbs, heavily varnished. Synched ran but poorly alot of popping and poor power so I pulled the TCU and it was shot full of corrosion and water, I also noticed a homemade jumper wire going from the 3 to 4 coil, I cut but left in place, then went and bought a used TCU and it ran alot better but still not right. I then reconnected wire and it runs like a champ.. Any thoughts, I'm afraid its overdriving the drivers in the TCU, is the TCU bad, is the coils bad, is the pickups bad?. Anyone done this and why. Thanks Mike
  24. just wondering if anyone has info. on how the bike should be wired for a 5 wire flat plug. Left signal, Right Signal and ground are easy enough. I want to concentrate on the brown and blue wire and what they should be connected to on the bike. Just going over the wiring to make sure it was done properly from the previous owner.
  25. Battery goes dead in about a week of no use (rain). I was told to put a fluke meter in between the ground wire and neg post and start pulling fuses. Battery reads 12.3 volts across the post and 11.5 with the fluke meter between the ground wire and the post.No change with pulling the fuses.(switch off position) NEED HELP Mike
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