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Showing results for tags 'wire'.
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I'm uncertain if the throttle wire should go on the outside or inside of this axle. [ATTACH]69540[/ATTACH]
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I'm considering rewining my stator since it does not seem too complicated. I have examined a XZ550 (Vision) stator that have the same number of coils (18) but is smaller. The copper wire has a diameter of 1.1 mm. Does the XVZ have the same wire size? Here in Europe I can't find high output stators. Probably because the XVZ did not sell in great number here. In UK the Electex company sells replacement stators for 90 £ (140 $) including VAT: http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eelectrexworld%2eco%2euk%2facatalog%2fOnline_Catalogue_Stator_Kits_424%2ehtml&WD=xvz&PN=G08%2ehtml%23aG8#aG8e They also have RR that seems up to date; http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eelectrexworld%2eco%2euk%2facatalog%2fOnline_Catalogue_Regulator_Rectifier_206%2ehtml&WD=xvz12&PN=RR36%2ehtml%23aRR36#aRR36 I have read about the cooling kit but it's perhaps a bit overkill here in Sweden (not being so very hot...)? So back to my first question; the size of the copper wire on the oem stator, please! -
Did this on the Wing so posting here ... The dilemma I was facing was how to put together a nice, clean, somewhat out of the way wiring connection for the trailer. Different hitches might present a different way of doing this but the design of the Rivco hitch doesn't offer much for possibilities. So, I figured I could install a "flush mount" type round plug underneath the trunk, next to the side bag and trunk release levers. As I had already installed a trailer wiring isolator kit designed for plug-and-play at the back of the bike, it was just a matter of taping into the wiring coming out of the isolator. Here's pics of my install... Product Used... [ATTACH]68744[/ATTACH] Backing Plate... [ATTACH]68745[/ATTACH] Wire Routing... [ATTACH]68746[/ATTACH] Marking for the holes using the metal template... [ATTACH]68747[/ATTACH] All cutout and ready for the plug... [ATTACH]68748[/ATTACH] The plug from underside of trunk bellypan... [ATTACH]68749[/ATTACH] The inside of the plug waiting for wires... [ATTACH]68750[/ATTACH] All wired up (had to use same color wire coz I didn't have others but that's no problem) [ATTACH]68751[/ATTACH] Finished Product ... male connector yet to wire up. [ATTACH]68752[/ATTACH]
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I removed the teardrop passing light / turn signals off of my RSTD. The LED's did not seem to attract the other drivers attention well enough and I had multiple situations of people cutting in front of me. Scary. So I got the Yamaha passing lights and put those on. I had already installed a relay, seperate small fuse panel, etc. so the passing lights are working. I must have accidently touched a wire to ground and blew the headlight fuse. I haven't replaced that yet, but the reason I blew the fuse was I was pecking around for the wire for the parking lights in the front. I have the turn signal part of the bulb wired and they work. I thought the black / white wire with the dual connection in the headlight bucket was the parking light wire. But I got nothing out of it. Is there a fuse panel other than the one behind the left side cover? Do I have the wrong wire? -
This is how I fixed my broken windshield bracket tabs on my 2004 RSV. I used a wire tie around the speaker boss and wrapped it around the windshield bracket. i cut a piece of rubber off the windshield bracket so the wire tie would be flush. -
I was adding some acessories and needed to move some wires around near the battery, when this one broke off. The wire comes from the accessory side of the OEM fuse box and goes into what looks like and EOM retangular male/female plug and the single wire is white with a red stripe. The broken piece fell down and I've not been able to get it out yet. The wire from the Accessory side of the fuse box to the connector was spliced and a couple of what looked like a 2 inline resistors were added. the thin wire that connected the two inline resistor broke. The added resistor could not be OEM for it was crimped on. Anyone have any ideas as to why these 2 Resistors were added. And then maybe I don't need it? -
Got this geared motor at work today from one of the other engineer's. There may be a couple of more available. I don't know what it was intended for. 12V motor, not a servo motor. Only 2 wire input. What can this motor be made to do on a Venture. Really, you know me, I may just try the best ideas. Gary
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My '83 Royale with cruise fried the plunger on the brake light switch. I mistakenly ordered the two wire switch, when,of course, I NEED the four wire switch. Given that the four wire switch is several times the cost of the two wire switch, is there some way to use the two wires for the brake light, and do something else with the other two wires to fool the cruise into working? Possibly tying them together to complete the circuit, or applying 12V to one or the other? Any help greatly appreciated!
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1984 ( old goats bike )
chuck6121 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hello , First off let me say that I believe that Old Goat is a stand up guy and that he told me everything he knew about the bike good and bad ... Question #1 I put some seafoam/gas into the bike started it up so the seafom would get into the carbs to maybe help out .. It ran for a bit and noticed the temp gauge didn't move .. the fan never came on ... then I noticed the the antifreeze come from underneath..(over heating ).. so i pulled the knob located next to the ignition.. the fan came on.. I have removed all the plastic from the bike ... where the temp gauge is there is a green/red stripe wire ,a black wire and a brown coming from the back of the temp gauge .. I tracked the green/red striped wire to the sending unit it was hooked up.. where the sending unit screws in there was a black wire with a male end that was screwed into the piece that the sending unit screws screws into was not hooked up.. I looked around and found another black wire (same gauge wire) with female end . ( the male end and the female looked factory) should these be hooked together ? Is this the ground for the gauge? also there was a blue wire that came out the same place as the green/red stripe wire .. it is hooked to a black wire ( not factory i don't think ) that goes to the knob i pulled to start the fan.. If i plug the black wires together will this make the temp gauge work? And is there a way I can test without starting bike ? Question #2 if you were standing at the side of the bike looking at the engine .. Between the back and the front set of cylinders there is a oblong piece of metal (don't know name ) That has hoses running to it.. On this piece of metal looks like a metal tube sticking up from it nothing attached ... Right above it is a hose (seems to be 3/8 ) that looks like it should attach to it ... Should these two be attached ? ... I'm going to replace all the hoses and clean all contact points .. since i have it this far apart.. I will have plenty of more dumb questions for you in time .. A big thanks to all that take the time to respond.. -
This morning about 6:00 AM my daughter was driving her car headed to her job on a two lane road just outside of the city. This is a fairly busy road during the day but not so much at the time of morning. She was doing about 55 mph and heard a scraping noise and the car jerked to the left and slid into the oncoming lane. She couldn't control the car as she slid. She ended up sitting on the edge of the road (no shoulder there) on the oncoming side. She got out to find both front tires flat and a rear losing air. There was a LOT of barbed wire caught under the car and wrapped up in the front suspension. She called 911 as she was alone on the road and no one had come along yet. The Sheriffs Dept responded in good time and helped her contact a friend of mine and made towing arrangements. They got her car safely off the road and to the shop. So a tow bill, three new tires and daughter is okay. Car will survive with a few minor repairs. So... stuff happens on the rural roads right? Stuff falls off trucks, farmers drag stuff out of the fields, and all that. BUT.... come to find out tonight this is the third time this has happend to drivers in the last 6 days in that same area in the early mornings. What the H***? Does this sound like a mishap? An accident? Not to me. The tow driver said he cut off almost 75 feet of barbed wire off the car. It looked like the wire had been looped around a tree trunk as the bark had been scalped off. Me.... I'm just sitting here smoldering figuring out how to make a slip knot for a noose out of barbed wire. I'm thrilled my kid is ok and unharmed but a bit scary for myself also. I run that same road on my bike about every Sunday morning headed out for my Sunday ride. So what are the odds of catching the fool doing this? Probably not very high. Not good at all. I just have this thing about justice. This joker needs to be caught and damned fast before some one gets killed. I'll shut up now..... I need to practice on my knot. Mike
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Head set wiring for speakers.
KIC posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
So I have a little project I would like to complete. I bought 2 male pigtails that fit into the standard tank plug. My goal is to just wire a 3.5 female stereo plug into the end. This should allow me to plug in my normal stereo plug into the tank plug and listen to the radio through my existing helmet setup. I currently listen to my Jimmy Buffett though a small music stick. QUESTION: Why can't I hear the music by just hooking the #5 (right speaker wire) and #3 (left speaker wire) wires to the female plug and then plugging my existing stereo patch wire into the 3.5 plug ? Do I need a different female receptor than a normal 3.5 female ? I have check the continuity in the wires and they are OK. I have tried it and it just doesn't work.. -
Here’s my question. Why have a relay for the driving (passing lights). My front fairing is still apart and I can change my wiring easily. I bought the Kuryakyn Master Cylinder switch and have the hot connected to the Red wire with yellow strip (power on all the time when key is turned on). One of the switch wires I connected to the driving lights. The hot wire to the switch has a 30 amp fuse and the wire going to the lights has a 10 amp fuse. There is power to the switch when I turn the key on and I can toggle the driving lights on and off with the switch. If I ever forget to turn them off, the power is cut as soon as I turn the key off. I don’t know a lot about electrical draw and amps, but was just wondering why I needed to put in a relay. Other than the fuse being in the fairing, is there any problems with the way I hooked it up? Thanks Melvin -
Finally finished installing a Alpine amp, and speakers. And i am pleased with the results it nice to cruz down the inter state at 80mph and here the radio nice and clear with out all that distortsion. Speakers are Alpine SPS-400 140watts peak - 45 wattsRMS and the amp is a Alpine KTP-445 45W RMSX4 It took some doing but finally have it in and working. Its only 2.5"WX1.75"HX7"L so it fit nicely in the front farring. It comes as a plug in to the Alpine stero so i had to cut off the plugs and Hard wire it. And that was the worst part of it.No wire diagram for the amp. A 2hr job that took 4days.
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i just got the gloves for christmas and wore them 4 times a total of maybe 16 hours with the heat on. Just thursday I thought the heat wasnt working. i blamd it on the bitter cold and kept riding anyway . Saturday i noticed the light on the rocker switch was blinking . The switch looked great when i oppend and inspected. the gloves work well plugged directly into the power source. has anyone else had a problem with the switch. It has been used for 5 rides tops, The sloder joints look good but the bpower cuts off when moving the wire. Can the wire have broken inside the insulator so soon?
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http://www.jpcycles.com/product/3300773 You will also need to get hose at your local auto shop I used vacuum line get 5 Feet the inside die was just enough to be able to push the two wires through. [ATTACH]64242[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64243[/ATTACH] Get 5 feet of whatever hole you want, I use vaume hose [ATTACH]64244[/ATTACH] remove the 8mm nut [ATTACH]64245[/ATTACH] make SURE you have the bottom nipple down and drill at the top [ATTACH]64246[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64247[/ATTACH] Break all of the old lens out (watch your eyes) [ATTACH]64248[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64249[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64250[/ATTACH] I used this type sander to make my surface flat Your just removing the outside edge lip. [ATTACH]64251[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64252[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64253[/ATTACH] Now cut your hose in half 2.5 feet, spray WD 40 inside the hose on both ends and pust the wire through. it will go with no problem. [ATTACH]64254[/ATTACH] IMPAORTANT: Make sure you have your wires through the back plate then then run the wire through the hose see photos. [ATTACH]64255[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64256[/ATTACH] Clean off the left over WD40 with cleaner [ATTACH]64257[/ATTACH] Now peal off the 3M backing and I used GOOP and file all around inside and up around the black vac line. [ATTACH]64258[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64259[/ATTACH] Then clamp together, wait about 30 minutes and your ready to use. [ATTACH]64260[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64261[/ATTACH] Run the hose at the same area as the front brake hose is routed. and up to the the wireing in the front cowl.. I will most tie into the cowl area you could also tie into the running lights area as well. [ATTACH]64262[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64263[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64264[/ATTACH] Use a hose of your chioce that the wire just will fit into. [ATTACH]64265[/ATTACH] LET THERE BE LIGHT. Any Qustions feel free to email or PM me. Enjoy, Jeff -
Word of warning, before reading this, if your drinking anything, put it down before starting, if you don't you will be wearing it instead. I cant take responsibility for this, it was sent to me by Ken Deret aka 1 Up, he sends me the funniest stuff. If you have ever used an electric fence or know someone who has one you should read this. The language used is a bit salty, but 'he tells it like it is' without cursing. If you don't laugh hysterically at this, CHECK YOUR PULSE... This is funny... And true. This was sent by a retired dentist. We have the standard 6 ft. Fence in the backyard, and a few months ago, I heard about burglaries increasing dramatically in the entire city. To make sure this never happened to me, I got an electric fence and ran a single wire along the top of the fence. Actually, I got the biggest cattle charger Tractor Supply had, made for 26 miles of fence. I then used an 8 ft. Long ground rod, and drove it 7.5 ft. Into the ground. The ground rod is the key, with the more you have in the ground, the better the fence works. One day I'm mowing the back yard with my cheapo Wal-Mart 6 hp big wheel push mower. I notice that the hot wire is broken and laying out in the yard. I knew for a fact that I unplugged the charger. I pushed the mower around the wire and reached down to grab it, to throw it out of the way. Now I'm standing there, I've got the running lawnmower in my right hand and the 1.7 giga-volt fence wire in the other hand. Keep in mind the charger is about the size of a marine battery and has a picture of an upside down cow on fire on the cover. Time stood still. It seems as though I hadn't remembered to unplug it after all. The first thing I notice is my pecker trying to climb up the front side of my body. My eyes crossed and I could feel the lawnmower ignition firing in the backside of my brain. Every time that Briggs & Stratton rolled over, I could feel the spark in my head. I was literally at one with the engine. It seems as though the fence charger and the lawnmower, were fighting over who would control my electrical impulses. Science says you cannot crap, pee, and vomit at the same time. I beg to differ. Not only did I do all three at once, but my bowels emptied in less than half of a second. It was a Matrix kind of bowel movement, where time is creeping along and you're all leaned back and BAM you just crap your pants. At this point I'm about 30 minutes (maybe 2 seconds) into holding onto the fence wire. My hand is wrapped around the wire palm down so I can't let go. I grew up on a farm so I know all about electric fences. But Dad always had chargers made by Sears or whoever that were maybe 9 volts and just kinda tickled. This one I could not let go of. The 8 ft. Long ground rod is now accepting signals from me through the permadamp Ark-La-Tex river bottom soil. At this point I'm thinking I'm going to have to just man up and take it, until the lawnmower runs out of gas. 'Holy ****!,' I think, as I remember I just filled the tank! Now the lawnmower is starting to run rough. It has settled into a loping run pattern as if it had some kind of big lawnmower race cam in it. Covered in poop, pee, and with my vomit on my chest, I think 'Oh God please die... Pleeaze die'. But nooooo, it settles into the rough lumpy cam idle nicely and remains there, like a big bore roller cam engine waiting for the go command from its owner's right foot. So here I am in the middle of July, 104 degrees, 90% humidity, standing in my own backyard, begging God to kill me. God did not take me that day. He left me there covered in my own fluids to writhe in the misery my own stupidity had created. I honestly don't know how I got loose from the wire. I woke up laying on the ground hours later. The lawnmower was beside me, out of gas. It was later on in the day and I was awfully sunburned. There were two large dead grass spots where I had been standing, and then another long skinny dead spot where the wire had laid while I was on the ground still holding on to it. I assume I finally had a seizure and in the resulting thrashing around had somehow let go of the wire. Upon waking from my electrically induced sleep I realized a few things: 1 - Three of the fillings in my teeth have melted. 2 - I now have cramps in the bottoms of my feet and my right butt cheek (not the left, just the right). 3 - Poop, pee, and vomit when all mixed together, do smell as bad as you might think. 4 - My left eye will not open. 5 - My right eye will not close. 6 - The lawnmower runs like a sum***** now. Seriously! I think our little session cleared out some carbon fouling or something, because it was better than new after that. 7 - My nuts and pecker have drawn up into my body as if they were hiding, out of fear. 8 - I can turn on the TV in the game room by farting while thinking of the number 4 (still don't understand this???). That day changed my life. I now have a newfound respect for things. I appreciate the little things more, and now I always triple check to make sure the fence is unplugged before I mow. The good news, is that if a burglar does try to come over the fence, I can clearly visualize what my security system will do to him, and THAT gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling all over, which fuzzy feeling all over, which also reminds me to triple check before I mow.
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I have a 94 Saturn SC2 with 175K miles. I'm the second owner since 50K miles. The Saturn has been receiving routine maintenance. In the last week I would feel an occasional electricial miss. Well I got new plugs and wire. It does not have a distributor cap nor a rotor. As I was installing the new plugs and wire this is what I uncovered. I replaced the plug about 30K miles ago but the wires I do not believe ever been replaced. 4 of the 2 wire where it connects to the coil/or whatever end, the wire cap was all croded really bad. The other 2 of the 4 were quite shiny. On the Spark Plug end 3 of the 4 plugs seemed fairly white rather than light tan. Maybe that is normal these days for electronic ignition. The 1 plug was all covered in oil. When I cleaned the oil off the plug looked quite clean where I was expecting it to be black with a lot of crude. Questions 1) What would cause 2 of the 4 wires to be extrememly croded at the coil end ( full of white residue). 2) What would cause the 1 spark plug to be soaked in what looks like fresh oil.
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Well, I got my ignition emergency bypass switch wired in as well as the ignition relay and my relay for the driving lights (Special thanks to Dingy here!). Now, I want to install a relay for the headlight and I've run into a bit of confusion. I looked at a thread by wes0778 who did this work and he mentioned tapping into a Blue wire with a Black tracer to install the headlight relay. When I checked the simplified wiring diagram for the 2nd gen, it shows a Brown wire with a Blue tracer. I have the fairing split and have found a Blue/Black wire going into a plug from which exits a Red/Yellow wire. Now wes0778 cut the Blue/Black wire and put the "downstream" end to the 87 terminal (I assume that the downstream end is the one that goes into the plug and comes out as a Red/Yellow wire going to the dimmer switch- this is what the schematics indicate.) He then put the other end to the 86 terminal as his "switching" wire (He had a wire coming from the battery to the 30 relay already as do I). So...do I cut the Blue/Black wire or should I keep looking for a Brown/Blue wire? Anyone know? I'd hate to cut the wrong wire and wind up frying something...especially after doing all this work. Thanks Andy
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Horn Wiring Question.
GolfVenture posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
The stock horn works good. Installed a set of Stebel Electric horns on the existing wires and they work good. I installed a relay 30 to Horn 87 to Battery 85 to Ground 86 to Horn Button. When I turn the key on the horn goes off without me pressing the horn button. This is how I determined which of the origional black horn button I would hook to the horn button. I turned the key on and used a troubleshooting light and found the wire that lights up. I took that wire and hooked it to 86. After thinking about the 86 wire I asked why the horn wire is hot without pressing the horn button. I doubled check both sets of horn wire and sure enough when the key is on one wire from each set is hot. This would then activate the relay when the key is on Shouldn't that wire only be hot when the horn button is pressed? What do I look at? -
Dealer suppose to have my new tires mounted by tomorrow. Whats the best method of scuffing them in a 4inch grinder with a wire brush attachment or just some sand paper.
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I'm hooking up 2 acessories and would like to know what gage wire and fuse to use on each? Hooking up a set of 55 watt Plattieum Burners driving lights. Hooking up 4 of these horns STEBEL MAGNUM DUAL TONE MOTORCYCLE HORNS MHS-22 CHROME Also
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this thing was put on by the PO but i cant find any info on it and think ill just yank it off, instead of trying to make it work it does not have fuse in it so im afraid it will screw up something if i try, have to trace the wire but havent done it yet . it is wired to fuse box acc fuse and one wire to right horn. and another wire heading under battery to some where towards front of eng. but havent traced that one all way yet. anyway, just wondering if anyone seen on of these and what the hell it does if powered ? -
Popped a headlight fuse the other day and changed it out and things seemed ok This morning I was going to go for a ride and again it popped... Ok...looked for a wire that lost insulation and was none... Now I don't even get anything when I turn the key... Where's the main fuse????
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Hi guys, I installed a Bar Snake on my bike today and took the bike out for a 5 hour road trip and WOW.. thank you!! what a pleasure THAT was.. I suffer horribly from hand buzz on any bike, especially the left hand, very susceptible to hand buzz.. Annoying as heck.. but today, man that was the first ride in AGES where my hand didn't buzz, go numb or fall asleep.. I installed one on my bike, took me 90 minutes or so to figure it out how best to install it.. what parts needed to come off, what was the best way of doing it ect... And then installed one on my buddy's bike which took all of 30 minutes or so.. Simple easy and well worth the cost and effort to install. I'm SO impressed.. It doesn't take all the vibrations out of your handlebars but it attenuates those high frequency vibes that put your hands asleep.. done wonders for me! I ordered the HD-3L from http://www.barsnake.com Its longer than I actually needed, but that came in handy especially for installation.. The best time to install the bar snake is if you're switching from OEM grips to say something like Kuryaken ISO grips which seem so popular and comfortable to ride with.. Its best to do it at this time as you have to remove the handlebar threaded inserts that the OEM bar weights screw onto. To remove these threaded inserts, you'll find a shiny dimple under the handle bar ends. Best way to describe this is that they are soft welds that go through a hole in the handle bar and hole in the insert to hold it in place. Start with a small bit and drill a hole into this dimple, it's rather soft.. then a medium bit and then finally a larger one that takes up the whole hole to remove all the material and you'll find the threaded inserts are now free and easy to remove. If you're like me and already have the ISO grips installed and cannot remove the left one (glued on way too good) then you can still install the bar snake but will lack about 4 inches of it in the left side of the bar. Just in case someone is going to ask later, I'll add how I installed the bar snake on two bikes today.. the first one took 90 minutes and the second one easily 30 minutes since we figured out what worked and didn't work.. If you're going from OEM grips to ISO grips, then your work is tons easier.. Same installation process. The bar snake comes with a pull wire. The task is to pass this wire through your bars and attach the snake at one end of the wire and then pull the snake through the bar by this wire until the snake protrudes at the other end.. then you trim off the excess bar snake and that's it. But in reality, there's a little more to it.. This is how it's done with the left ISO grip in place.. Take the end cap off the left ISO grip to expose the hole in the end. Remove the right side switch cover. There are two phillps crews holding it in place. You'll have to loosen and move the brake reservoir clamp as well. (make a mark on the bar with a marker to relocate the clamp at the end of the task). Under the switch box, the wire bundle needs to be slid out of it's pinch hole. Both halves come apart and you can rest these on the bike's gas tank which you have covered with a towel or heavy blanket.. The right side ISO throttle grip can now be slid off the handle bar with ease, no need to loosen throttle cables. Inside the handle bar tub, you'll notice an insert with threads inside. This is where the OEM bar weights screw into. You will need to remove this by locating the shiny dimple near the end under the handle bar. Using first a small drill bit, then a medium then larger drill bit, you drill out the dimple which is made of softer material. Once you removed all of it, the insert will be loose and able to be removed. De-burr the resulting hold inside the handle bar to make sure it doesn't catch on the bar snake when passed through. Take the supplied pulling wire and make a small loop at the end of it, about the same size that you can slide a pencil through.. This will make it easier to pass it through the handle bar's tight bends.. Patiently thread the wire into the left side of the handlebar, being careful not to bunch it up if it hits a snag.. Starting off with a straightened wire without bends or kinks make it easier. You'll be able to feel it go through but most likely it will bind up just as you get it to the last bend of the handle bar.. and this is where the little loop at the end of the wire really comes into play.. Using a straightened out wire coat hanger with a hook at the end of it, start reaching into the right side of the handlebar to try and hook the little loop so that you can then pull the wire the rest of the way through.. Patience is a virtue here While you're doing all this, your bar snake has been soaking in VERY hot bucket of water to soften it up. Attach the pull wire that came out of the right side end of the handle bar to the end of the bar snake. One end is tapered with a reinforced hole for this task. You'll want to secure the wire so that it won't pull out or bind on it's way through.. I took a turkey baster and used it to blast about three loads of ordinary liquid dish soap into the right end of the handle bar in order to get it in deep. This is key to the task as it will allow the bar snake to pass through easily. The left end of the pulling wire is wrapped around a screw drive handle (a better grip to pull with). As one gent is ready to pull, the other gent has to lube up the bar snake with dish soap read to lube up the bar snake as it's going into the handle bar. And as one pulls on the wire at one end, the other guides and lubes the bar snake at the other end. We found it MUCH easier to pull the bar snake through if you twist the bar snake as it's being fed through. Because the bar snake is meant to be very tight inside the bar in order to do it's job, the twisting of the bar actually reduces it's diameter and makes it easier to slide in. You'll know you have almost pulled it all the way through as all that soap you squirted in comes pouring out of the left end of the handlebar, so have towels ready to catch it, and not get it on the bike or floor (slippery on the floor) As in both installation process, we found that you can pull the bar snake all the way up to the left side threaded insert, but as soon as you let go the pulling tension, the bar snake retracts on itself. What we found works best is to keep pulling on the wire, while the other gent is twisting and releasing the bar snake at the other end. The tension on the bar snake will pull in more of itself from the right side.. You'll know when all the tension is gone when you can't pull anymore from the left and no more bar snakes goes in from the right. Check it again in five minutes to make sure all that retraction tension is gone. Once satisfied that its completed, you can cut the bar snake's left end piece and put everything back together again. If you're installing a bar snake just before installing ISO grips, both threaded inserts can be removed and the bar snake can be pulled all the way through so you have some hanging out both ends.. Trim off excess at both ends and put everything back together again. Its a simple enough process, once you know the little tricks and idiosyncrasies of our bikes.. As I said, for me I feel it was money well spent and time well spent installing these. Its made lot of difference in my being able to ride without my hands going numb from hand buzz. If you need more info, drop me a line.. Cheers
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I have looked at the threads about wiring in spot lights / running lights. I will be using a relay, mounting it under the seat, fused, etc. I am thinking that the blue wire for the taillight should be in a harnass running under the seat. Would it be sufficient to power my relay from wire running to the taillight so the spot lights are only on when the key is turned on? I am also going to wire in a manual switch up front. Will this wire / circuit handle the load of the relay? Thanks. R.
