Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'wheel'.
-
Will the rear wheel off a 2005 RSTD fit on a 99 RSV?Part numbers are different,but will it fit?
-
After replacing my tire on my '83 venture, i think i reinstalled my rear wheel incorrectly. If you are looking at the rear from behind, in which order should the washers go on? When i installed them in the order i thought they came off, the wheel would barely turn. Should there be a washer between the caliper bracket and the swing arm? At this time i do not have a washer between the swingarm and caliper bracket, but im afraid it may be wrong? It drives fine, but i want to be sure incase the brakepads are missalligned. -
So i keep my bike outside due to no garage or shed. In the winter I will be keeping it under the cover all week till my polar bear rides on sundays. I have noticed a few problems and wonder if anything is serious. My starter button needs to be hit a few times before it angages. no click . its just that the switch. i will dissasemble and clean and lube. the front wheel has been making a lobing squeak. noticeable at a gas station when doing 5 MPH squeak squeak squeak. faster as I go faster. i didnt think anything of it until I got into a heavy lean last night where I didnt want to accelerate anymore and I heard no squeaking but an undescribeable sound comming from the wheel when I turned right. Could this be my wheel bearings going or do they need to be lubed. There was less noise when leaning to the left and nothing when going straight down the road except for the SQUEAK SQUEAK SQUEAK -
I had to pull the rear wheel again because the dealer didn't clean the rim good enough so the tire was slowly leaking. Anyhow i realized that i didn't grease the pins the last time so I had another reason for taking it a part again. Anyhow, the pins were pretty rusty. I cleaned them up with some fine sandpaper. Anything else to do other than moly paste? Do you or can you clean out the bushings? thanks, Larry
-
Finally got the bike and trailer all checked out and ready to pack for tomorrow. I have noticed for a bit that the wheel seals may have been leaking, as there is grease on the inside of both wheels. I pulled the caps this afternoon, just to be sure everything is ok. Well both wheels are still full of grease, but the seals are worn. I think that is because the seal surfaces on the axle was never polished. I can still feel the tool marks where it was turned down. When we get back from Vogel I think I'm gonna make a warranty claim against H/F, for a new axle. Just wondering if any of you with H/F trailers have run into the same thing?
-
Just changed the rear tire and confused about the assembly of the spacers on the rear wheel. I read the posts on the tech pages about the spacers but I have a thick spacer not shown in those photos. I've highlighted it below. Where does it go? (I have the nut and washer for the other side) http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/gaillarry/VentureAxleSpacers-1.jpg
-
Just bought an 06 VMax front wheel for the bike. It will somewhat match the rear VMax design (rear needs painted this winter) Whadda ya think. I am over the top yet?? 1st picture, as it sits now. 2nd picture is new rim, I think I will use the red rotors. 3rd is of rear rim style as it sits now. Gary
-
Hi; I am putting a new rear tire on my 86VR. I have the repair manual and am following its' directions. I removed the 2 bolts from the caliper mount and am unable to remove the caliper. It rotates freely on the rotor when I spin the wheel but it will not lift off. Have I missed something? As ussual I apreciate any and all help -
I took my 06 RSV to have the rear shock inspected a couple of weeks ago just before the warranty ran out. I mentioned to the mechanic (who I have come to trust over the years) that after I installed my rear wheel with new tire mounted it seemed like the rear brakes were dragging but I hadn't really paid any attention to it before removing the rear wheel. This first thing he asked me was if I had marked the axle location (referring to rotation) before removing it. I said no I never do. He said that he had a customer one time that complained about a noise after having a tire installed somewhere else out of state. He knows about the pins needing greased, etc. and noticed that the axle was bent so he ordered a new one from Yamaha. When the new one came in it was bent also. So he called Yamaha and they said "Yes, that's the way they are. You need to install the axle and rotate it noting when the wheel spins free or tight and then tighten it at the best place." The mechanic said that did indeed fix the problem and he now always checks and then marks any axle he does in relation to the swingarm so he doesn't have to check it the next time he works on it. I have an appointment this week to have the rear shock replaced and I told him that I want the dragging brakes checked. I intend to ask him what he means by "bent" because we have a machine at work that we use to straigten precision ballscrews for our positioners and I could have it straightened. Has anyone else ever heard of this condition? I didn't think I had ever seen a post about it.
-
About to buy some wheel bearings on line. 83-93 are the same bearings aren't they?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330556005707&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
-
I have debated over the last 2 weeks whether to write anything about this, but I realize the discussion might save someones life or prevent serious injury. Long story short- I blew a front tire on the highway going 75 miles an hour. I didn't crash and it is not because I was so skillful. I was fortunate/lucky whatever. First I heard something that sounded like the truck in front of me was having trouble with a tire. Next, my bike was sluggish with steering. Then the tire wall collapsed and I took off to the left across a lane of traffic. Honestly don't know what I did, but got it going back to the righ across another lane of traffic. Somewhere in all this I pulled the clutch and had the presence to not touch the front brake. The front wheel was violently shaking back and forth and it seemed like the front wheel was going to catch at a 45 and body slam me into the pavement in the front. It slowed down enough that I got it off the road on the inside of the highway. What would I like to accomplish with this post? 1) Educate people on what to do with a front tire blow out. I honestly don't know what to do I just know what I did. Hoping some others with better skills than I might know. 2) Understand the steps we can take to prevent the situation from happening. I ride on Avon Venoms. A couple smart people on this site say it is the right tire and that is enough for me. This is my 2nd Venture and I bought it last year. Was riding a front tire that had adequate tread, but I don't know how old it was. This was mistake number 1. Secondly I was putting in the tire pressure posted on the tire and not the bike. So I was at 44 psi and the Venture says its front tire is 36 psi. It was 103 degrees the day I was riding. Thought we were supposed to be going by the tire and not the bike, but I am told this might not be correct. 3) The tire is a 130 instead of a 150. I asked a guy on this site who I respect about the safety of a 150 vs. a 130 if it goes flat. My reasoning is that the wheel is the same width regardless of the width of the tire. If the tire is flat I would think that a wider tire would not wobble as much. He didn't think this was a factor and I respect his opinion, but I wonder. So, let's educate each other. What is the best way to ride these blow outs out and what can we do to prevent them? Thanks, Bob
-
It has come to my notice that some jobs on our much beloved (and very fast) classic Ventures, just are not hard enough already. You 2nd Generation folk may skip the rest of this thread. Your bikes take longer to complete their journeys, so y'all don't have time for the extra work we need to indulge in! So easy are they that folk are feeling the need to invent a few steps not envisioned when the Workshop Manual was written. So let's examine a few common problems: Removing the Spark Plugs .... Indeed it is fortunate that this operation rarely has to be performed because it is next to impossible without first removing the engine. Rarely has it been my misfortune to encounter spark plugs so difficult to remove, if you discount the one right around the back of the motor of my Ford Windstar. Whose idea was a V4 anyway? So .... engine beautifully balanced on that upturned bucket I found in my shop, and the plugs come out in a jiffy. Why didn't Yamaha think of that? Changing the oil .... This one is dumb. Surely you changed it when you had the engine out to remove the spark plugs! No? Well then you need a hoist. Having removed the idiotic piece of plastic hiding the oil filler from all but the most "investigative" of our membership, and having somehow found just the right sized wrench that will get off the filler cap, because it was too easy to put it somewhere ... you know ... reachable, then all you need do now is hoist the bike, spin it over and the oil will run right out. Or you could remove the drain plug. Nah! Too easy. Shimming the Valves .... This one is tricky. The Workshop Manual describes the process, because it's a Workshop Manual, and that is it's reason for being. It's a simple process although even I will admit that "shims and buckets" sounds more like a Harry Potter spell than a mechanical procedure. There is a fiddly, and very expensive tiny bit of metal that needs inserting where no metal should ever be inserted. For God's sake please don't forget to remove it when you are done! Getting hold of one is hard. It involves a PM to Skydoc_17, and a promise to return it. Thanks Earl Much easier to remove the cams, having carefully measured all the gaps. Oops! Where did that chain go? There are reasons to remove cams, but shimming the valves is not a good one unless, of course, there are other reasons why you may want to spend more time in the shop. Removing the rear wheel .... Here we have a situation where the very best in "Shade Tree Mechanics" do actually beat the pants off the manual. Start by removing the front wheel. Yes, you heard right, to remove the rear wheel one first removes the front. I know, it's crazy. Having removed the front wheel, and tied the center stand to prevent it flipping up, you can then lower the bike onto it's fork ends tipping the back end up so high it gets a permanent snow covering. Handy! Rear wheel is now a no brainer. There endeth the lesson. Meet here next week for "How to adjust the drive chain" ps ... Don't get upset, my tongue is firmly attached to the inside of my cheek!
-
Vmax wheel on a 1st Gen?
tvking63 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
While searching I saw some talk of using a 15'' Vmax rear wheel but couldn't find anybody that had actually done it on a 1st Gen. So, can this be done? Has anyone done it? And if so, what's involved? -
I wasn't sure where to post this. It's about tires, but it's on a sidecar rig and it's got a little bit of darkside throw in for good measure. I decided to put it where I thought it might get the most eyes. I have a '83 with a California Friendship I sidecar. I've been getting about 3k miles out of a Dunlop 404 on the rear. Ideally with a sidecar rig I'd run a car tire but after doing MUCH digging, it appears that a car tire isn't an option with the 16'' wheel. So I'm looking for the meanest, nastiest, live forever tire I can find. It looks like a lot of people are running Avon Vemon's or Dunlop Elite 3's. Is there anything else I should be looking at? I see a lot of chatter about the Avon's cracking so I'm shying away from them, but the E 3's in 1st Gen sizes aren't radials. I don't know why, but I think I should be running a more modern radial tire. Any issues with running bias ply's? I even looked into swapping in a 15'' Vmax wheel but couldn't find any one that had actually done it and there is very little clearance between the swingarm and the stock tire. So even if you could get a Vmax wheel on there, I doubt that I could find a car tire that would clear. Thoughts? Comments? Rude remarks?
-
Rear wheel removal Gen 1 I need new tires for my bike. After reading many threads today on the different procedures, I came up with a process that I thought would work well for me. Basically I pulled the axle on the rear wheel, used a floor jack and removed the front wheel then finished removing the rear wheel. Everything went according to plan. I think one of the best threads that I read told me to strap the center stand. Great idea! Thanks to everyone that posts!! Ray http://www.raymondstacy.com/nowheels.jpg -
I have noticed a droning vibe when accelerating -- equivalent of what I would call a driveshaft vibration on a car. If I let off the throttle, it immediately goes away. Obviously difficult to describe in words, but let's call it a brrrr....rrrrr....rrrrr that increases with speed, but only when on the throttle (anything above a "light" acceleration). While I was changing the dogbones, I spun the back wheel around in the air, didn't feel anything loose, didn't notice any kind of looseness in the bearings (wheel mounted). From my search, I didn't note any common problems as such, so I'm looking for any wisdom on a place to start. Bike is new to me, has done it since day one for me, tires are pretty new, bike has about 32k miles and appears to have been well maintained and not abused. Thanks, Iz
-
Two questions. Has anyone loaded an RSV into the bed of a F150 (04 thru 08) with the tailgate down using a ramp ? Did the tailgate take the weight of the bike and the rider without bending if so? Is there any reason you could not tow an RSV backwards in one of those one wheel Receiver hitch things with the rear wheel off the ground?
-
Should I even worry about this for now, or just squirt some kinda spray lube on these spots (Swing Arm) ? I have 12,300 mile on my bike. I have removed the rear wheel and I am going to grease the main gears on the shaft and wheel and the fingers in the wheel (third time doing this, but finally with the Honda Molly 30 this time. Hard time finding it here). Are there supposed to be factory grease fittings on my 07 Tour Deluxe at the swing arm ? Anything else I should do while the rear wheel is off and bike is up ? I will clean and wax the hidden areas also while everything is off. Going back to garage to start cleaning the wheel and begin to grease. I am also changing oil and rear diff grease again. I have changed the rear diff grease twice already in the last 12,000 miles and three yrs and the oil & filter every 4000 miles. Be back in a little bit to see what you all think...... Update; did not see any grease fittings there in the swing arm. So maybe next yr at Freebirds Maintenance Day ??? Mmmmmmmm . Maybe just maybe the grease fitting mod would be doable. Now that would be great. Back to the garage.. *update 8:12 pm - had some company to come, got the diff oil changed and now draining the engine oil. Surprised no one has any info. The rear splines are all cleaned and greased with the Honda molly. Be back later, off to the garage again. Man I love that Bike lift. I got a steal of a buy on a new Harbor Frieght, one of the big red jacks that jack up the whole bike, sweeeeeet. Using along with the stand that I purchased from some one here a while back. Thanks in advance...... Fuzzy -
After reading all the pros/cons about lowering the RSV I bought a Barons rear lowering kit. The instructions aren't the greatest (no pics) so I have a couple of questions on the install. - relocating the brake caliper: is it necessary to remove the mufflers to take out the rear axle? - removing the connecting arms: with the rear wheel off the ground (unweighted), when I remove the bolts for the connecting arms what prevents the wheel from dropping further down or do I have to support the wheel?? Doug
-
Rear Wheel ? I broke a basic rule! I tore the RSTD down Knowing!! the Manual would get me out of trouble_____ Wrong! No measurments of bolts, spacers, washers etc....It shows the individual parts but I want to make sure it's right. Please if anyone has photos or a description of the parts from the bearings out on my 2005 RSTD rear wheel I would Appreciate some help tried to search prior to asking. Thanks in advance bf
-
I am going to take my front wheel into the dealer to get a tire put on because they want a fortune to do it. I had a quick look tonight and it doesn't look that difficult. Is there anything I should be aware of? Do I have to remove the brakes before removing? Do I need to do anything with the bearings? 44,000 Kms (26,400 Miles) Thanks, John -
I pulled the rear wheel off of my '08 RSV this morning (installing a new tire). When I flipped the wheel over (rotor side down), this spring-looking thing was lying on the backside of the rotor. It has a diameter of approx 1.25" if that helps. I'm not sure where this came from...:confused24: since I hadn't disassembled anything. I looked at the rear wheel parts diagram, and the only thing that loosely resembles this is an o-ring. Any thoughts or ideas?
-
Been riding my 09 since July, almost 9000km and noticed for the first time yesterday a wheel wobble I wasn't expecting. Tires are original and appear normal wear to me. First time I've done this so it could have been there from day one and was wondering if it is an alignment issue. Hoping someone else can try it or say its normal. Cruising along in gear at 85km/hr (about 50mph) I took my hands off the grips to close my jacket pocket and as the bike coasted and slowed down, at 70km/hr (almost 40mph) the front wheel started to wobble. Had I let it go further it could have turned into a tank slapper. Given the cold weather lately tire pressures were down a few lbs so I put more air in today (36psi front, 40psi rear, have 0psi on front forks, 40psi on rear). Tried same thing and again right around 70km/h I started to get the wobble again. Haven't tried doing it in neutral yet and wondering if it was because the bike was in gear or if it is an alignment, tire, or other issue. Comments?
-
Anyone done this? Wondering what it costs. Thanks RSTDdog
-
Yesterday I drove up to John Furbur's shop outside of Allen Town PA to get a new rear with the Vmax gears. What a nice guy to deal with. He must have 50 plus bikes in his shop and gave me the royal tour. He went through the history of almost every bike. 200 + MPH crotch rockets with turbos, his Ford 5.0 V8 bike, some special Italian sports bike that at 12 years old was a head of it's time, and of course tons of Vmaxs. He also has a RSV minus the trunk all tricked out. It is lowered, has drag type handle bars and a large diameter after mart exhaust system that only the mufflers are the slip on part. I asked him who made the pipes, but now with CRS I can't rember. Then he takes me out side, opens up a trailer and says this is what I just went to CA to buy for 2K. At first I thought it was a boat. But no a custom 2 seated body made out of aluminum, a steering wheel, 2 wheels in front and one in the rear with Vmax motor in front and Vmax rear in back. He takes it out of the trailer, starts it up and then says" take it around the block I can't fit in it until I move the steering wheel". He is a very tall/big guy. I'm sorry I wish I would have brought a camera along. Hey Freebrid any chance you could email John and ask him to send you a picture of that thing so you could post it on the site? Well hopefully this weekend I'll get the new rear installed, Also a big thank You to Freebird and Sleeperhawk for their excellent write ups on removing the rear and greasing the swing arm. They came in real handy while taking the rear end of the bike apart.
