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Showing results for tags 'wheel'.
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I had a fairly long conversation with Jim Gooch of HMS today and one topic was the rear wheels, Jim stated that any 4-100 15x7 wheel with an offset between 38-40mm would be just fine on there, no worries of any tire or wheel rub. Being able to use a 38 or 40mm offset greatly increases the selection of wheels from which to choose. The larger the number the more to the inside the wheel moves. I also asked about the rear brake line from the rear master cylinder to the T block, it is the Yahamama stock line. I am going to replace it with a braided stainless line. Hope this helps some who may want to put different wheels on.
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I want to lift the rear end up an inch to spine the back wheel. Last night while coming home, the back wheel actually felt like, the tire was wobbling from side to side. want to but in neutral and spine the tire, and check to see, if the tire has failed -
I've seen a few different ideas for hub caps on 8" wheels. Don't know if anybody has tried this. I had a front hub cap from my semi kicking around, it measures 8 3/4" same as the outside lip of 8" wheel. There's a small gap between the wheel and the cap about an 1/8" but it's really hard to pull back off. Can't give it the acid run right now( few to many icy patches).
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Today during my ongoing 91 VR restoration project, after forks, electrical, coils, carbs., the rear end was my target and everything was peachy until I took out my rear wheel. Surprise, a bunch of metal shavings fell out of the interior of drive, after a moment of panic(thinking of a shot drive), I started to look and clean, the dried out grease and more debris, but I turned my attention to my wheel bearing and got a handful of needles and more shavings. I then took a good look at the spines because they crunched the needles to shavings. After a good cleaning the drive splines seems ok, I guess? Any comments or warnings would be appreciated. Mike -
O.K. folks, I am not a Venture owner, my son is. He bought an 84 XVZ 12 DL. Has complained about high speed stability from day one. I just returned from a short ride (about 75 mph) on I 75. The bike feels as though it's riding on rain grooves or a draw bridge grate at these speeds. I wouldn't take a long distance trip on this motorcycle if you paid me. We need some help,,, Please! A bit of background. Both my son and I are long time performance auto mechanics. Rob just mounted a set of Shenco Tour Master tires. Re- packed/ replaced wheel bearings, replaced brake rotors, removed and greased final drive splines, checked and adjusted steering head bearings ( set with a very slight drag with wheel off ground). We've checked swing arm bearings (no play) and I went over the rear frame with a flashlight looking for cracks (yes, I had my glasses on). The only way he'll ride is with the rear tire at 45 lbs. the front at 37. Though keeping the tires over inflated (my opinion) helps, this thing is almost scary. My Eleven is more stable over bridge grates. What do we do/ look for? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Hi everyone. I know the subject has been mentioned in passing in previous threads but I thought I would go over the situation again but with some photographs this time. As most riders know the removal and fitting of a 2nd Gen. Rear wheel is a real bind so after the last time I refitted the rear wheel to the cost of four stitches to my right hand when the wheel came off the splines and pushed my hand into the side of the rear fender. I thought about a better way and came up with this, I checked on the site too and it is mentioned in passing on another thread. First I raised the bike up to the top of the lift and placed the wheel under the rear fender, I then positioned it and carefully lowered the lift down to a height that I could easily lift the wheel up. I have an old axle (you could use a length of round bar) that fits first into the pumpkin and through to the swing arm. (Left to right through pumpkin) oposite to the proper axle. I had both mufflers removed as I had removed the rear end to clean and grease the swing arm bushes otherwise you would have to remove the left muffler to do it. The axle or bar protrudes from the pumpkin so that the wheel when lifted is placed on it and pushed and slightly rotated to engage the drive splines. It can then be pushed all the way through to fully support the wheel. You can then put the original axle through the swing arm and brake bracket etc from right to left and this will push the other axle out from the left side as you push the axle back in the proper place. I hope this can be of help as it made life so easy and I managed it single handed and still have all my fingers. The job is made a lot simpler. Neil. (Old Miner).
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Well I got a question, Im into Phase 2 of the Firefighter RSV and part of it is polishing the outside ring of the wheels and powdercoating the spokes the color of the bike. I think I know my answer but do I need to remove and replace the wheel bearings or can it be done without removing them. Dont really want to mess with them but If I need too I will. Scotty
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Anyone have one chrome wheel trim hub from their RSV laying around they dont need? I need the non-weighted side. This is the hub that bolts over the front brake rotor. Thanks, Jeff
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Hi. I found I have a slight leak from my rear wheel valve where it goes inside the rim. I managed to seal one on another wheel (I have two rear wheels and alternate them on new tyres) but this one is SOLID. It is a very slow leak but the tyre had lost a good amount of pressure since October when it was laid up. I managed to seal the first leak by removing the two locking nuts and cup from the valve and pushing the valve inwards allowing air to escape and clean the seating by moving the valve assembly from side to side but as I say this one is SOLID.. Firstly to find out if you have a leak spray some water/washing up liquid mixture and look for the tell tale sign of small bubbles. This leak has happened to both of my wheels now due to corrosion. Secondly I have not seen how the valve fits into the inside of the rim as I have my tyres fitted for me and I cannot find anything in the manuals that shows how the assembly fits. I PRESUME I know how but presumption can be dangerous so your excellent help would be much appreciated. Many Thanks. Neil. (Old Miner).
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Hey guys, need info/help. I'm gonna split these up in seperate threads so as to not confuse anyone (myself). #1 Other than a dealer, what would be other good places to purchase bearsings (wheel, steering, swingarm), and gaskets for my 07 Venture?
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My 83 rotors are too large in diameter for the r6 upgrade. (Found 89 forks and r6 calipers) Any recommendations on rotors that fit the 83 wheel but have small enough diameter. Current rotors are 297x8.
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For those that read every post, you'll remember that I got STUCK up in Custer, SD last weekend because I was having issues with my 2009 Venture. The rear wheel was "creaking" or "clicking" when the bike was in motion. I got several great responses here and some from friends regarding the possibilities of what could be going on back there. In the end (no pun intended), I decided NOT to chance it and called my brother in Arkansas to come after me with the trailer (only 2nd time this bike was ever trailered)...so 20 hours later...he shows up in Custer, SD. He got there at 2am on Saturday morning and we set the alarm for 530am to leave back for Arkansas for another 18 hour drive back home. Once I got home I took my bike (not to the stealer), but to my regular bike mechanic who is also the one that put on a new set of tires the month prior to my trip to South Dakota. Here's what I found out (remember I am not the most mechanically inclined person)...but evidently Yamaha sets their rear ends up differently than other bike manufacturers and their "alignment" process of the rear wheel appears to be "sloppier" than it should be. My mechanic kept saying he didn't know why they didn't use "dowels" to help in aligning the rear wheel (by the way, that's all greek to me). Anyway, he stated there is even a technical bulletin (see link or attachment below) that explains the problem and gives a solution. My mechanic also told me that his contact at one of the larger Yamaha Dealers in Arkansas told him they have even seen (heard) of this "creaking" on brand new bikes and also bikes that have never had a rear tire change. I am posting this so that others that may or may not have this problem can find it easily. I hope this helps someone else. Here is the link to the bulletin. http://www.arkansasbiker.net/Service_Info.pdf Wally
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Will RSV front rotors bolt up to a 1st gen. front wheel ?? I need a set of 298 dia. rotors for the front wheel. Gary
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My bike has been doing this for some time. When Im moving forward at any speed I hear a clicking or grinding sound comming from the rear wheel. To me it sounds like a rotor out of balance, but when I put a drag on the brake the sound is still there. Its not a noise that is constant . Maybe I can explain with this. Sounds like Im putting something in my spokes and taking it out every half of turn. I have greased everything . 19000 miles. PS.... Hey everybody its been a long time.
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Okay, I bought the Aluma MC10 to haul the Wing to distant lands. I now need the best wheel chock to put on it and protect my bike. Which one is the best? I saw a posting or ad some time ago that discussed a chock that locks the wheel securely so you just have to use straps to keep the bike from moving sideways...can't seem to find it again...not even sure if it is the best anyway. Appreciate any help you can provide.
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I changed my tires, and when putting the rear one back on, I forgot where one of the washers goes. On the right side, there is a washer that goes on one side of the brake mounting bracket or the other. Can someone tell me which side? This is a washer that goes on the rear axle, and it will either be up against the wheel on the right side, or between the swingarm and the brake mounting bracket. I put it up against the wheel, but is seems like there may be too much drag from the brake when I spin the wheel. Thanks for any help. -
I have been hearing a clunk when going over large bumps.I thought the fender or something like that was loose but a preliminary check turns up nothing loose. It really concerned me sunday after rolling through a rough part of the road.I thought something was gonna fall off. Another noise was like heard when leaning into a curve.Can't explain it but the sound was in conjunction with a feel.Are my wheel bearings dry,damaged, or could it be my neck bearings. I'm sorry this is so cryptic but I can't video tape the sound because the wind noise is too great.I am just hoping some one has an ideawhat neck and wheel bearings symptoms might be. Maybe some inspections I can preform.I csnt figure oit how to change the fork oil without removing the forks.
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Sorry I could not located the specs here. Can anyone tell me the torque specs for installation of the rear wheel. Thank you.
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not sure if I need srings or just change the fork oil, I am getting a bounce in the front end between 30 and 35, took the wheel off and re-ballanced, it was spot on, so thats not it, put a peice of card board in a clamp and set it allmost to the tire and spun the wheel, not out of round.... it is an `01 so springs are probably shot, just reaching for Ideas.. Thanks
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Ok I was cleaning my garage, a work in progress, when I came across my dremil tool. A light bulb went off as I purchased aftermarket saddlebag rails and they are smaller diameter. I did try some grommets but didn't like the look ( can you say afterthought) and they didn't work well. I decided to mark the location of the rails and with a sanding wheel remove some plastic to allow for mounting in the original position. I used the insides as a template for the radius as a starting point and a small sanding wheel to ease away the plastic. Once one sided was done and fit I placed them together to position the other half and repeated the process. -
I'm driving in the center lane of three, I look in my left mirror and see a car what seemed to be plenty of room behind me to change lanes. I believe I turned my signal on and started moving to the left when I hear a clicking sound coming from the left side of my bike. Now as I look to the left I see the car that was in my rear view mirror right beside me with my newly installed highway peg doing the chariot thing on her front wheel. Thank the LORD that HE gave me the ability to remain calm and move slowly to the right away from the car that I was sharing the lane with. She slowed down, I moved ahead of her and we made a left hand turn off the road to talk. She the driver of the car asked if I was OK (I don't know yet how I was not shaken) I said yes as I looked at my peg and realized it was somewhat OK. We then looked at her car with a few scratches in the clear coat of her wheel and missing center cap. She's saying lets just exchange info and is gesturing that I pay for her loss. So, I reply lets call the police so the blame can be appropriately charged. She replied "Are we really going to do this" and I said do what? She said she had a good relationship with her dealer and she would be reasonable and did we really want to involve the law and spend a few hours doing it. I said OK and it probably was a wise decision once I was away from the scene but, I still am wondering why she was so adamant about no police. As I reflect I was at fault because I was the one changing lanes, I almost always look over my shoulder along with looking in the mirror and this is the reason why. Again thank GOD it could have been worse.
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I am going to remove my rear wheel this weekend for a tire replacement. I have a jack and the carbon one adapter and a tire. What all do I need to remove before the wheel? The manual I have, says to remove the muffler, saddlebag guide bar (left and right) exhaust pipe, rear brake caliper, and of course the axle. This sounds like a major job. Do I need to take off BOTH saddlebag bars? And, does the exhaust pipe have to come off? I figured, I'd just remove the Right saddlebag and muffler, then remove the caliper and snatch out the axle??? I'm sure once I get into it, I will realize what has to come off. Just wanted some input, so I would be prepared. Sometimes, I spend too much time trying to "NOT" remove something that would have been easier to just remove in the first place. Thanks, for any tips that might make the job easier. dana -
First, let me introduce myself. I am Walter McGarr from Hoover Alabama. I just purchased my second RSV, a 2007 Midnight. My first RSV was a 2000 model. Rode a VTX1800 for four years after I sold the 2000 RSV. With introductions out of the way, has anyone stayed at Two Wheel Inn in Robbinsville? Heading up that way next week and was wondering what to expect. Thanks
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OK, got this noise from the rear like a wheel bearing going down, so I put her on a lift, spin the tire and its got a spot, same place every turn, like a flat spot on bearing. So I pull the axle, then spin the tire and quite as a mouse, so I take the wheel in to the shop and have both side wheel bearing and seals replaced. Came back home put it all back together, SAME THING, with axle in and while riding same noise, axle out no noise. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 2step
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I was wondering if anyone knows if the new v-max rear wheel will fit the RSV Gregg
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