Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'wheel'.
-
Can anybody point me in the right direction to find a chrome front wheel for my 2006 RSTD? I sent mine off to be chromed and it seems to have been lost ???????? Or so I am told. In the mean time I am in search of a place that sells the wheels already chromed and would sell me one without doing an exchange. Or does anybody maybe have a front wheel for sale that I could buy and have chromed. Thanks, Jerry
-
just want to make sure I have the right size tire for the front wheel . What is the size for the front tire going smaller i'm ordering
-
I was wondering just how hard it is to replace/repack the front wheel bearings on a front wheel drive car. A 95 Chrysler New Yorker to be exact. I am not mechanically gifted, but I have done a lot of work on my cars in the past 30 years including bearings on rear wheel drive cars. Just wondering if this is something that I could do myself or should I take it to a garage to get it done? Thanks in advance. Wayne
-
Well I finally got up the courage to watch the video of Leslie's funeral. I think that's the hardest thing I've ever had to do in my life. I know it seems like a weird thing to do, to video a funeral, but since I wasn't able to attend in person I needed to be able to see it for myself. The next day I went to the cemetery to visit the grave site. I think watching the video made going to the cemetery a little easier but not much. Today I went and looked at my bike for the first time since the accident. I don't know how I managed to survive this. The front wheel is pushed back into the radiator. The gas tank is almost flat on top. The G2 bars are bent. The windshield is gone. The headlight, passing lights and turn signals are gone. The fairing is toast. What a mess.
-
Hi guys. Well, the old girl developed a clicking sound coming from the rear wheel. I only put around 6000 miles on it since reassembly. I put it on the center stand and turned the wheel and it clicks once per revolution, always at the same place. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions before I tear into it this weekend? 87VR Don
-
When doing maintainance on the rear wheel hub assembly, is it okay to use "white lithium" grease, on the splines and hub pins,or is there another type to use? I know that some people have complained about the lack of grease in this area, the white lithium looks like it may be too light for the job. I had to pry the hub out of the assy using a pry bar, it was rusted in there good, no sign of any grease from the factory. I cleaned of the pins with a wire wheel and cleaned the bore's out with a .20 gauge smooth bore barrel cleaning tool, you know what I mean the copper brush thing, lol. Yes ay info on what type of grease to use would be helpful. Cheers Keith.
-
Has anyone purchased one of the bike haulers that mounts in the receiver of a car or truck trailer hitch and secures the front wheel allowing the rear wheel to ride on the road? If so, what has been your experience?
-
Last week I had a rotational knocking sound between 5 and 10mph and a wobble on hard acceleration.Well I took the rear wheel off today to find the problem and I found that the wheel bearing at the differential was Gone and the drive cog in the differential was loose. Would a second gen still have gotten me home from a 300 mile run at 80 to 90 mph? Here are some pics of what I found and what the parts should have looked like The bike was still pulling strong and had very little symptoms. Jeff
-
How many of find that it is way too easy to lock up the rear wheel on the newer Royal Stars with the four piston caliper, especially in an emergency stop? I know that now when I think about it is way easier than any other bike I have owned, not scientific but seams that way.
-
My 06 RSV came with Bridgestones and I’ve put 13,000 miles on them. I bought new Dunlop OEM model (but in white wall) tires via the web (OK, my wife did, because she’s the web shopping guru). I’ve read a lot of posts about tire preferences and handling and mileage life and opinions are all over the map. I figured I would try the Dunlops and next time, probably the Avons and after that the Michelins, etc. until I had my own opinion based on how I ride. Anyway…I’ve got a torque wrench, lift and Carbon One’s adapter and I plan to remove the wheels and take them to a tire place (not a MC dealer) that will break off the old tires and mount the new ones, then I will reinstall the wheels (replacing brake pads and greasing the rear splines like I saw at Freebird’s Maintenance Day and tightening the fork head) utilizing the combined knowledge of 3000 experts/mechanics/advisors/family that is VentureRiders. Some specific questions though: 1. The tire mounting shop prefers I remove the rotors – do I need to reinstall the rotors in the exact same (hole for hole) position as they come off? Torque requirements? Tightening sequence (like lug nuts)? 2. The tire mounting shop has no means to balance a MC tire – how much does this really matter? 3. I know the tires are directional. The rear wheel can only go on one way, so I only need to confirm that they mount the tire so the forward direction results in the rotor mounting on the right side (facing forward). The front tire is also directional, but does it matter how they mount it on the wheel? 4. I know the brake pads on the rear wheel are exchangeable (inboard to outboard), but are they the same configuration for the front wheel (a pad is a pad is a pad)? 5. I have come across several threads that I’ve copied for procedures for rear wheel removal, greasing the splines, tightening the fork head, etc. I hope they will be as helpful when my hands are covered in grease “in the moment” as they appear to be sitting at the computer. Not sure if I have all the right wrenches and socket sizes for the various tasks – I have the “normal” sizes 17mm and smaller. Anyone have a list of “special” sizes or tools needed for these tasks (or substitutes, like Crescent wrenches)? Thanks in advance for all who contribute. David -
While changing oil today I decided to run the rear wheel, with the engine, while I had it jacked up. I got a lot of noise from the rear drive train in every gear. I am thinking that it was from not having any resistance on the rear wheel because I get no noise while riding. She's as smooth as silk when I turn it by hand. Any thoughts on this one?
-
How often do you replace them? Do you go by the service manual? Or do you replace them each time you replace the tires? and will regular wheel bearing grease work or a special kind of grease? -
Attached is the tech artical from Yamaha for how to fix the noise in your rear wheel and how to align your rear axle . It also tell how to grease the fingers in your rear wheel the right way. Hope this helps everyone. Don if you want you can add this to your tech section for thr VEnture and the RSTD. Later -
I posted this before...tried a couple things..problem still exists. First of all, it ain't the woman on the back coz I've had 3 different ones and I really can't believe they all squeal exactly the same and at exactly the same time! Here's the problem... when doing a tight right curve such as one of those you'd find in a freeway on/off ramp at a good clip (around 100 km/h), I get this squealing/whining sound. It only appears under this condition and it seems that if I'm not leaning quite enough or leaning too far, it goes away. In other words, while making the corner, I change the lean angle of the bike and the squeal goes away...put the lean angle back to what it was and there's the squeal again. This doesn't happen in a left curve. It's also less obvious without a passenger (but still exists). It also doesn't happen doing the same curve at a slower speed. Here's what I've done... changed both front and rear wheel bearings. Changed rear rotor. Cleaned and re-greased rear wheel. All internal components in rear wheel appear in good shape. Anyone experience this and/or have any clue what might be causing this? Thanks.
-
Looking for some help with a strange noise I heard this afternoon on the way home from work. It sounded like metal grinding or a bearing spinning. At the same time I heard the noise the bike pulled to the left and slowed down. I did not hear the noise with just the bike running so I think it is coming from the wheels or drive train not the engine. Does anyone know what a failed front wheel bearing might sound like? Any thoughs? I checked the front wheel for side to side play and there was none. I put the bike on the center stand and ran the back wheel up to speed but I could not duplicate the problem. Any and all thoughts would be appreaciated.
-
Where's the best place to get wheel bearings for the Venture,any body go with auto part store bearing ? buddy
-
I removed the rear wheel and put grease on the drive shaft and wheel splines. I could not get the hub off I removed the retaining clip but still could not get it to come off, I did not want to pry on it for fear of damaging the hub or the rubber seal. Any ideas? Dale
-
I took the rear wheel off to check the placement of the caliper bracket, the washer looked to be in the wrong place. The collar was missing, I sure could use one if any one has one they could part with it. Some one put a new tire on looks to have put no collar, caliper bracket, washer then forced the swing arm over to keep the wheel in place. I would like to know the order of the parts to put them back. Collar,Bracket,Washer.
-
I know most of us don't ride around without our hands on the handle bars, but on occasion when I am riding with one hand or if I let go of the stearing my front wheel will start to shimmy. Once I grab on it will go away. Has anyone else exeperianced this? Is there something that I sould look into or is this normal?
-
Well I finally got the Trike painted and put back together. Just need to add chrome molding around wheel well. Here are a few pictures. Hope you enjoy!
-
Started polishing the front wheel tonight. I think about 5 hours and 20 bucks will get it as close to chrome as it can be without the chrome cost. Lower part was done in about 30 minutes Used a course steelwool then a fine and finally the Diamond Brite Truck box polish from Lowes. You can see the results in the pics. I did not do the painted part and probably won't as you can hardly see it with the hub cap on.
-
Frame Front Suspension Fork springs: At the 1985 V-Daze I attended a seminar given by Yamaha Motor Corp. and during that seminar, I asked this question "why do my front forks bottom when I stop on ruff pavement?". The answer "If you have more then 24,000 miles on the bike you should replace the fork springs" I left the seminar and rushed to the Progressive Suspension both and got the last set of after market replacement springs. I have over 176,000 miles on those springs and have been pleased with their continued performance. You can find a link to Progressive Suspension's web site on the links page of this web site. Fork seals: The fork seals on your Venture are tender and if you get even a small neck in the fork tubes they will start leaking! So before you replace the seals be sure to check the tubes for nicks. If you do find nicks, feel them and if you can feel it so can the seal, with a small fine file VERY CAREFULLY smooth only the high spot of the nick. Zerk fittings This article appeared In September l988 Issue of Venture road on page 15 and In 1991 Yamaha installed grease fittings as standard equipment There has been a lot of talk about installing zero fittings on the mono shock assembly and I have heard that at least one Priority Network dealer is doing just that. I decided to start with a set of arms off the wrecked '83 I have in the garage. Although this bike only had 14,000 miles on it, I could see some wear or pitting on all the metal surfaces and after some thought, I set off for the local auto parts store to purchase a 1/4-24 tap, a 7/32" drill, 2 long zerk fittings (11/16" overall) and 3 short ones (9/16" overall). The bill was $5.35 for the lot and as I drove home I could have kicked myself for waiting so long. Procedure... With the bike on the center stand, remove both mufflers and place a board under the rear tire to take the load off the assembly. Then remove the four bolts and the two bearings at the bottom of the mono shock. (Note: There are dust caps on each side of these bearings and they are not all the same, so make a note on where they came from). After you remove and clean both arms, you are ready to get started. I took my time with the first hole between the bushings marked "A", starting with a 1/16" drill, then a 7/32" drill and keeping the tap straight, I tapped the hole and installed one of the short zerks. The bushings marked "B" were not as simple because the '83 Venture has a metal bushing about .030" thick and I felt that the zerk was too long to go straight into the arm, so I used part of the weld to gain a little thickness but a thin washer would also have done the trick. Remember to drill the holes as close to the center as possible so the drill goes through the groove in the center of the bushings. (Note: 1984-87 Ventures have the thicker fiber bushing in the "B" position, so you only need to drill and tap through the one side of the bushing so that the zerk extends a little into the fiber to hold the bushing in place). The last two bushings marked "C" are drilled and tapped through the raised portion and then counter sink the holes with a clearance drill deep enough so the zerk extends into the fiber bashing. After you thoroughly clean the bearing surfaces, re-install the arms back in the bike and use enough grease to insure an even coating. Wipe off the excess grease. Now each time you change oil, give each of the fittings a little shot of grease for a smooth ride. Fred Vogt, #01037 On later models the procedure is the same and on the "C" bushings you will notice a flat spot where it looks like a grease fitting could go. http://www.venturerider.org/pictures/swing.gif Venture Rear Wheel Service You may ask, "Doesn't my dealer do that?" NOT UNLESS YOU TELL, HIM THAT YOU WANT IT DONE. This service should be completed every tire change or 10,000 miles (16,000k) or at least every two years; but in most cases it isn't done because we don't always have a dealer replace our tires and/or we don't tell him to do the work. So if you just bought the bike or you are not sure it has been done, it would be a good time to think about servicing the rear wheel of your Venture. The procedure is fairly simple to do on bikes without a trailer hitch and only a little harder if your bike has one. Remove the rear bags, right muffler, rear brake caliper and deflate the tire; then remove the rear wheel. If your Venture is a 1983, 84, or 85 you will need to remove the rear drive or differential and remove the drive shaft. Clean the drive shaft and coupling, then grease both ends before putting it back in (note: make sure that the shaft goes back into the u-joint. If you are not sure, remove the spring on the boot covering the u-joint and check it. Next clean the spline or gear on the rear drive and grease it with a good quality grease, personally I use a medium Moly based grease. Now find a couple of 2" x 4" and place the rear wheel spline side up on the boards. When you clean the hub and splines off you will see the spring clip or circlip that holds the hub in place; remove this clip and before you remove the hub mark the possession of the hub so you can replace it in the same holes it came from. Now clean the hub and inspect it for wear then apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip. Check the bearings inside of the wheel and check the bearing movement; if they are rough or worn replace them. Now for the mono shock pivots place a jack under the rear drive to take the strain off of the mono shock then dissemble. Clean and grease all of the pivot points and reassemble (if you have a 90 - 93 or you have had grease fittings installed, just give them a squirt). Before you install the rear wheel take the axle and put it back through the swing arm into the final drive to check the alignment. If you find that it is in a bind you will have to change the wedge shim between the final drive and the swing arm. Check the oil level in the rear drive or replace the oil if it has been 10,000 miles since it was serviced and check the brake pads for wear. You can now reassemble your bike and have another year or two of trouble free riding. Fred J. Vogt, #01037
-
I have usually changed my own tires using standard tire irons since the 70s. With this method, disk brakes don't really get in the way. However, I have recently started using a manual tire changing machine (from Harbor Freight). This works great, and the effort is much less than with tire irons, but so far I have only used it on my rear tire. Since the rear only has one disk and the wheel can be put in the changer with the disk down, it is not an issue. However, I am not sure how to deal with the dual-disk front wheel. Does any one here have experience using a manual tire changer with a dual-disk wheel? Do you have to remove one of the disks? Thanx! Goose
-
Drive shaft maint. On 1st Gen Here is a good article that was written by Mr. Fred Vogt. Fred published a lot of this type articles for the MTA's Motorcycle Roads Magazine. This service should be completed every tire change or 10,000 miles (16,000k) or at least every two years; but in most cases it isn't done because we don't always have a dealer replace our tires and/or we don't tell him to do the work. So if you just bought the bike or you are not sure it has been done, it would be a good time to think about servicing the rear wheel of your Venture. The procedure is fairly simple to do on bikes without a trailer hitch and only a little harder if your bike has one. Remove the rear bags, right muffler, rear brake caliper and deflate the tire; then remove the rear wheel. If your Venture is a 1983, 84, or 85 you will need to remove the rear drive or differential and remove the drive shaft. Clean the drive shaft and coupling, then grease both ends before putting it back in (note: make sure that the shaft goes back into the u-joint. If you are not sure, remove the spring on the boot covering the u-joint and check it. Next clean the spline or gear on the rear drive and grease it with a good quality grease, personally I use a medium Moly based grease. Now find a couple of 2" x 4" and place the rear wheel spline side up on the boards. When you clean the hub and splines off you will see the spring clip or circlip that holds the hub in place; remove this clip and before you remove the hub mark the possession of the hub so you can replace it in the same holes it came from. Now clean the hub and inspect it for wear then apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip. Check the bearings inside of the wheel and check the bearing movement; if they are rough or worn replace them. Now for the mono shock pivots place a jack under the rear drive to take the strain off of the mono shock then dissemble. Clean and grease all of the pivot points and reassemble (if you have a 90 - 93 or you have had grease fittings installed, just give them a squirt). Before you install the rear wheel take the axle and put it back through the swing arm into the final drive to check the alignment. If you find that it is in a bind you will have to change the wedge shim between the final drive and the swing arm. Check the oil level in the rear drive or replace the oil if it has been 10,000 miles since it was serviced and check the brake pads for wear. You can now reassemble your bike and have another year or two of trouble free riding. Fred J. Vogt, #01037
.thumb.jpg.4e1b3809c4633f365ba67afc212f21df.jpg){kind=avatar}
