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Showing results for tags 'valve'.
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well, i lucked out while mounting my tires, and i've got metal valve stems.. problem is i can't measure the pressure in the tires because all of my pressure tools don't have long enough depressors to check the pressure. any ideas? i'm toying with the idea of seeing if they simply screwed the schrader in too far, or replace the schrader with a longer one, but i'm not positive that'll work.
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I have finally got my 1987 replacement engine taken apart to install the Vmax cams. I decided to pull the heads and do a valve job. The seller said it had about 40k miles on it and it looks very good inside. The manual says to install new valve oil seals when reinstalling the valves. These little guys are almost $12 each and there are 16 of them! Anybody have experience or opinion about reusing these oil seals?
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Ok.....I'm at that point. Got all my other stuff done and pulled the valve covers to replace the seals and gaskets due to a seep on the rear head and check the valve lash. Thought I was being the bright guy and removed the "hard" one first. The front. Only had to remove the bolts from the radiator and pull it ahead a bit. Pretty much slid out except for a little drag across the chain sprockets. Then the "easy" one....the rear.....oh yeah! Not so easy. Hung up pretty good on the sprockets and was a bear to work out of there. (Should have done this when I had the gas tank out) Now I got the covers all cleaned up.....got the 2nd gen gaskets sealed into the covers....got all 16 of the plugs on the bolts replaced. So.....any advice on what else I can do to give myself a little more room to work the covers back into place without scraping the gaskets back off? Bike is naked.....fuel line and overflow lines are out of the way. Do I need to pull the coolant lines to the heads? Maybe take the coolant hose off the top of the radiator to give me more room? Suggestion? Just trying to avoid a fist fight with my sweety. She does give me a hard time now and then. LOL! Thanks Mike -
For the last year the rear air pressure in my '87 would leak from 40lb down to 20lb in about 1 day then on to near 0 in another day or two. Sometimes faster, sometimes slower. Each morning I would pump it up with my 0-60lb gauge hand pump from Progressive. Reading aroud here mostly about 2nd Gen shock leaks someone mentioned putting in some tranny fluid into the air fill line to swell the seals some. I did not have any tranny fluid laying around, but I did have some power steering fluid with leak stop additive. No idea if it hurts or hinders long term but I did not have much to lose so I put in about 1 ounce with a veterinarian syringe and surgical tubing section I had. Now 3 days have gone by including a hour of two-up riding with the nice weather we had today. It has held steady at 40lbs. Crossing my fingers it holds for a long while. I did not have a valve stem removal tool handy either. Rebent a small cotter pin from the junk pile so the ends were the same lenght. Fits perfectly either side of the valve stem. A pair of pliers and it was out quickly. -
I replaced front disc pads - and naturally, front brake lever has no resistance whatsoever now. I'm reading out here about "reverse bleeding" using a syringe or something - I take I'm supposed to remove bleeder valve, and squirt dot 3 into the opening with a syringe or something similar. Does that sound right? I'm assuming dot 3 will eventually overflow out...then what? Put bleeder valve back on and see if pressure builds up? Or try bleeding it normally? Reservoir on handlebar is full. I wanted to change out rear pads, but my saddlebag on that side does not want to come off and I don't want to force it. It's almost as if the key lock isnt working right. Doesnt seem to be enough room to pull that caliper off with saddle bag on. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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Hi All, any ideas on how to get rid of the discolouration on my valve covers (and some other engine pieces)? I have seen a suggestion that paint remover and steel wool be used, but that seems awfully aggressive on these soft aluminum parts. Any suggestions?
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Hi there, I am in need of the "roving" valve shim/tool kit... does anyone know where it might be and how I might get in line to use it?? Thanks very much Gary
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As I slowly get to the end of my restoration, I find another thing here or there that causes my project to slow down... I got the carb and ignition issues worked out! Replacing the diaphragms fixed the "lean" condition. Cleaning the plugs fixed the ignition issues as I had to use the enrichener to keep the engine running before fixing the carbs. However, I now noticed some very nice cracking in the rubber "half-moons" plugs on the valve cover gaskets. I also have noticed a little oil on the engine...not much, but enough to know that the valve cover gaskets are going. What parts do I need to replace when doing the gaskets? What components do I need to remove to access the valve covers? I already have ALL the plastic off. I will also be removing the carbs (again) soon to replace the carb mount boots (very tiny leak found). I've heard that 2nd Gen valve cover gaskets will work on 1st Gens. Is this accurate? Thanks in advance! WHCC -
OK, so winter has its icy grip on me. Time to install the Shindengen voltage regulator I bought from Dano in the group buy and adjust the valves on the 86. The Shindengen regulator was first on the list. When it was first talked about on this site it was said that this replacement voltage regulator is far superior to the old one but not the same dimensions. This poses a problem for the mounting. The Shindengen is too wide to mount in the stock position. I found that it would hit the muffler and not let the muffler be mounted. Mounting it here seemed detrimental to me because of the heat factor also. So an alternate site has to be found. You have to give credit to the Japanese for this bikes compactness of its various components. The Shindengen regulator was mounted in the left air-duct on Saltydog 83 std. This to me sounded like a excellent place for mounting with one exception. I was worried about any high frequency interference in my radio being that it would be mounted under it. I for one like my FM radio. Like a local station says in its promos "There's no weather warnings on a I-pod". So my choice was the right side air-duct. The installation was tight but do-able. I started it after buttoning it up, no radio noise and it works just like it was explained. Ramping up slowly,perfect. So far so good. The valves have never been done on my 86 to my knowledge it has roughly 38,000 mi. So I start to line up the necessary gaskets, shims and tool. The gaskets and shims are no problem. The tool thats a problem in itself. Seems nobody stocks this tool. Unless your willing to spend bu-ku bucks for it. I'm cheap. I know it. So that being said, I started to make my own. It started out life as a 13/16-7/8 box end wrench that was modified earlier for some past job. The box width was pretty close to what was needed. Randy R contributed pictures of what the tool actually does. Which helped to get a mental pic of the valve tools dimensions. Plus Dingy posted a PDF file of a original tools dimensions. The total thickness of the 13/16 wrench wasn't enough to depress the shim buckets. So after welding the outside some to build it up and grinding it flat the appropriate thickness was achieved. The size 13/16 didn't fit the cam hex at first so some filing was done until it did. It worked like a charm! Total time involved in making the tool was roughly 2-3 hours. It isn't pretty but it works. Valves done. Thanks to everyone for the great writeups on the Shindengen voltage regulator and valve settings. Also the PDF charts and pictures about both. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=39671&d=1262284449
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Attached is a Microsoft Excel 2003 spreadsheet that can be used as an aid in selecting replacement valve shims. This should work for 1983 through 2009 models, I did not see any variances in the sizing charts in the service manuals. 1st sheet in file is in Metric format. 2nd sheet in file is in Inch format. I expanded upon the valve clearance charts that are in the service manuals to include the shims end in 2 and 8. The reason for this is that these shims can be reused in the bike if available. I don't believe you can buy the --2 and --8 sizes. Screen shot below shows cylinder 2 area. The only cells that are selectable are the "Shim in Now" & "Measured Clearance" data fields. The "Shim in Now" field will only accept valid shim sizes. There is a pull down menu for valid sizes or size can be keyed in. The only other value that is accepted as input is a zero. I included this to set chart to neutral setting. The "Measured Clearance" field has no error checking built in. Use millimeters on Metric sheet or inches on Inch sheet. The decimal point needs to be entered, the "mm" or "in" does not need to be entered. Below the "Measured Clearance" field is a calculated field for "Shim Needed". This field will display the correct shim size to set valve clearance to the high end of acceptable range. Next is "Expected Clearance" field. This is a calculated field to show what valve clearance should be with the shim size shown in "Shim Needed" field. Next is "2nd Choice Shim" field. This field will display the next larger size shim that will work. This shim may be selected due to "Shim Needed" is an odd size or not available. This shim will set valve clearance to the low end of acceptable range. Next is another "Expected Clearance" field. This is a calculated field to show what valve clearance should be with the shim size shown in "2nd Choice Shim" field. In the upper right hand example, the lower "Expected Clearance" field is highlighted in Red. This will happen when any of the calculated sizes fall outside of acceptable range. If value cannot be calculated the "Shim Needed" field will be blank and error will display in "Second Choice Shim" field. This will happen if an out of range clearance value is entered. The two right hand charts in screen shot do not have data entered in so there are errors shown. This should print out on 8 1/2" x 11" paper very readable. This is just an aid for shim selection. Verify Clearances if you use this after shims are installed. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/valvechartclip1.jpg 39118.xls
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Attached is a Microsoft Excel 2003 spreadsheet that can be used as an aid in selecting replacement valve shims. This should work for 1983 through 2009 models, I did not see any variances in the sizing charts in the service manuals. 1st sheet in file is in Metric format. 2nd sheet in file is in Inch format. I expanded upon the valve clearance charts that are in the service manuals to include the shims end in 2 and 8. The reason for this is that these shims can be reused in the bike if available. I don't believe you can buy the --2 and --8 sizes. Screen shot below shows cylinder 2 area. The only cells that are selectable are the "Shim in Now" & "Measured Clearance" data fields. The "Shim in Now" field will only accept valid shim sizes. There is a pull down menu for valid sizes or size can be keyed in. The only other value that is accepted as input is a zero. I included this to set chart to neutral setting. The "Measured Clearance" field has no error checking built in. Use millimeters on Metric sheet or inches on Inch sheet. The decimal point needs to be entered, the "mm" or "in" does not need to be entered. Below the "Measured Clearance" field is a calculated field for "Shim Needed". This field will display the correct shim size to set valve clearance to the high end of acceptable range. Next is "Expected Clearance" field. This is a calculated field to show what valve clearance should be with the shim size shown in "Shim Needed" field. Next is "2nd Choice Shim" field. This field will display the next larger size shim that will work. This shim may be selected due to "Shim Needed" is an odd size or not available. This shim will set valve clearance to the low end of acceptable range. Next is another "Expected Clearance" field. This is a calculated field to show what valve clearance should be with the shim size shown in "2nd Choice Shim" field. In the upper right hand example, the lower "Expected Clearance" field is highlighted in Red. This will happen when any of the calculated sizes fall outside of acceptable range. If value cannot be calculated the "Shim Needed" field will be blank and error will display in "Second Choice Shim" field. This will happen if an out of range clearance value is entered. The two right hand charts in screen shot do not have data entered in so there are errors shown. This should print out on 8 1/2" x 11" paper very readable. This is just an aid for shim selection. Verify Clearances if you use this after shims are installed. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/valvechartclip1.jpg 39120.xls
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Chart below shows my valve clearances. 1983 venture, 36,000 miles Cold engine, setting on workbench. Should I be concerned due to rear head being tighter than front head. The #2 inboard intake is tighter than my smallest feeler of .0015" Should I change the ones that are just outside spec.? I have 3 intakes at .10mm,, spec is .11-.15mm ?? Next, I have seen in other threads that there is a loaner valve kit available. Who would I contact about using this?? http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/valveclearance.jpg Gary
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I've ordered a set of valve cover gaskets. The PO gave me a set of the heavy duty battery & starter cables but they were never installed. Should I put these on while I have things apart for the valve covers, and what problems can I expect to look for? I also have a new fuse block in the box.
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If anybody is looking for valve cover gaskets there is a listing for them on ebay now for a fair price and cheap shipping. It's a Buy it Now for NOS and take as many as you want. There were three left a little bit ago. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200393189413&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Just FYI.
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I blew a valve cover gasket on my 89 VR yesterday. This is my second season riding it after it sat idle for about 13 or 14 years. Do you guys think I should just go ahead and replace all of them? I don't want to be stranded somewhere. Lucky for me yesterday I was in town, if I hadn't been on call there's no telling where I would have been. Thanks for your input, Jackie
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Someone with a XVZ1300 (naked) over here asked me if I knew the valve settings. Nope, but knew where to come and ask:thumbsup2: So help away guys.......................................
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Front tire went down 65mph two up.Slide about 200' both of us stayed with the bike until we hit shoulder.Minor scrapes & bumps totaled 07 venture. Tire had 3000 miles on it new valve stem when tire was changed.No hole in tire valve stem rubber cracked.Never thought bad valve stem but i will now.And yes i do check my tires before every ride.
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I'll be starting some winter maintenance soon and I though others might be as well. Does anyone have a Morgan Carbtune and/or Colortune for loan in Greater Vancouver? If not then I'll order these and make them available for loan. http://www.ekmpowershop1.com/ekmps/shops/carbtune/carbtune-pro-4-column-and-toolpouch-24-p.asp I also have a valve shim kit available with most sizes from 2-30 to 3-10. I have not bought the tool yet though.
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...or "you-should-do-the-things-your-mother-told-you-do" During the last meet and eat I attended my "mother" gave me a valve adjustment tool along with a bag of pads; "mother" told me to make sure I recorded everything to keep the whole process very organized. So I decided to make up this little table in MS Excel (no formulae, just a table). You can print it out and have a handy sheet to record all your values. I've found it very helpful; thanks for your advice, "Mother". This should be useful whether you own a first or a second generation Venture....IF you want to do what Mother says you should do.
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I took my '07 RSV into the dealer yesterday for a valve adjustment and to check a couple of other things. One of which was the clutch basket chirp. They ordered the new basket right away and should have it in a few days. I'm going to pick the bike up tomorrow so I'll have it to ride on the weekend and then I'll take it back in next week for the clutch install and valve adjustment. The clutch chirp has started to annoy me and I believe it is getting worse as I put on more miles. I've got about 30k on it now. Hope it helps a bit. Dennis
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I would like to send out a special thanks to Squidley for finding the issue that has for so long plagued my bike. After all of the troublshooting and head scratching, Squidley shows up and points out the fact that my rear brake fluid was no longer fluid. It is now a gel. Appearantly my rear brake has been slowly locking up on me. Thank you Squidley . He also pointed out a couple of other issues that I need a little help with. Is there anybody out there who may have a spare rear reservoir and a proportioning valve they would like to part with? My valve is no good and my reservoir is in pieces. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Clay
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Good evening all. Just came in from the garage where I was beating myself up with this problem, i.e, #2 air valve not responding to throttle whatsoever. I ensured the vacuum port was clean and clear by squirting B12 through the port and it exiting from the top of the carb; then used moderately high pressure air with the same results. The diaphragm is good, no holes, no tears and attached with no separation. The small oring was/is in place. Carbs sync perfectly creating 24 mb of hg at idle (1050 rpm). Plug is firing. Good vacuum at the boost sensor vacuum port on the carb manifold. Everything checks out except for a dead air valve. What the h....! I have two more nights to figure this out or I am left with taking my Ultra to the rally. I really won't mind doing that but I would much rather ride the Venture because it is a much better bike. Any more ideas. H______E_______L________P!!!!
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For anyone contemplating buying or putting together a valve shim kit, you won't BELIEVE this buy! I'm sure the web site is a mistake, but I ordered one anyway and got it for a total of $12.90 ($5.95+shipping)! I expected them to call me and say "no way", but it arrived today! :cool10: And now they have even LOWERED that price! Better get your order in before they change it. Order the starter kit from this page: http://www.preferredpowersports.com/eshopprod_cat_5347-19112-30104_product_736199_keyword_25mm+AND+shims.KL_HONDAYAMAHA_SHIMS.htm Goose
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My brother just bought a 1996 kawaski vulcan 500 ltd in great condition the guy says it needs a valve adjustment and i am just wondering how much work were looking at or how much the stealership would charge for it? thanks guys
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Ive been look through the 1st Gen manual to see if there is a shrader valve attached to the rear shock on my '88 VR. Thought I would throw the questions out here. Is there a rear shock shrader valve and if so where is it located? The class on my '88 doesn't work. I've installed Progressives in the front forks and would like to be able to add air manually until I get the CLASS working. Dave
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