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Showing results for tags 'valve'.
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I want to do my first valve adjustment this winter. However, I cannot find the special tool (YM-33961). Does anyone have one I could buy or borrow? I'd be happy to pay the shipping costs. Thanks,
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Out of all of the maintenance/repair/mods that I've done to my MK11 (which includes just about all of them) I've always dreaded the Valve Shim adjustment Task. And now I know for good reason. To me this maintenance task requirement is one on the biggest negatives of the Yamaha V-4 engines. I've read all of the articles and manuals written about this task and had a good general understanding of the process. But, having studied up on the subject, the task really struck me as a major PITA for several reasons. My first reservations were about work space access to do tedious micro measurement task in a confined area with my ageing eyesight and fat clumsy arthretic fingers. (And my seemingly constant lack of suitable and locatable lighting source issues.) Visualizing the task, I just could not imagine it being physically possible to actually do. But, of course it is. In fact, as RandyR (who graciously agreed to help me) and I discovered my fears were unfounded and the factors I feared the most were actually quite easy. Thats not to say that the job was without it's obstacles and did in fact turn into a major PITA, as I first suspected but, for very different and unforeseeable reasons that I never would have imagined. The first problem that presented itself was a tool issue. The feeler gauges needed for the measurement of the valve/shim clearences needed to be within certain ranges for the intake and exhaust shim specs. We discovered early that the offset or bent gauges made access easier than the flat ones. Then of course the set I had on hand was not that type and had the measurement markings rubbed off...... Of Course. :doh:So we jumped on the bikes:7_6_3[1]: to ride around the corner to the nearest Advance auto parts store to remedy that situation. Four Hours, fifty miles and multiple stops at every,Auto Zone, Napa, Pep Boys and Northern Handyman retail locations we could find we eventually discovered that each of them sells several different type sets but no one set contained all of the gauges we needed in the exact sizes we needed..... Of Course.:doh: We finally settled for having to buy multiple sets which we adapted to satisfy our needs. At least it was a nice day for a ride. That problem solved, the next wrestling match was mental due to a counterintuative issue resulting from the tightening of the valve from wear rather than loosening (as Randy explained it to me and one might imagine). Or more specifically how that translates mathmatically (Not my long suit) for the proper replacement shim selection. Being somewhat mathmatically challenged at that stage of the day, I left all the mathmatical calculations, converstions and contemplations to Randy who seemed to be good at it and really getting into it. But evidently, it was a long day for both of us because after completing the clearence measurement for each valve, the out of spec shim removal and installation of the "correct" replacement shims we remeasured the valve/shim clearence on the replace shims to check our work. To our dismay the "corrected" clearences were ten times more out of spec then they were before we "Fixed" them. Apparently, when doing math calculations decimal point placement is critical. Who would have thunked it? After all, who really spends a lot of time mentally dealing with decimal points and metric converstions unless your like ah counting money. :mo money:There are probably a lot of people like Randy that are good at and get into that sort of thing. I myself, am more of a generalist. I know it, I admit it. Upon that realization, we decided to call it a day and regroup for the next. The next day, being armed with the mathematical truth of the error of our ways we jump into the appropiate corrective action with fresh minds and energy. Note to self: When things appear to be going smoothly, it would be prudent to pay extra special focused attention and proceed with extreme caution. I'm not sure if the foregoing concept is one of the reconized "Murphy's Laws" or not, but, if not it should be. Half way through the secondary corrective-corrective action shim replacement, we find for no explicable reason, a stubborn valve shim that refused to be removed from it's shim bucket....Of Course. After repeated failed attempts Randy gives up in frustration so that I get a chance take my shot at it. Being the adaptive,suedo-mechanical engineering master mind that I think that I am, I immediately decide that it is another tool issue and decide to apply a jeweler's screw driver to the problem. Finding the smaller blade more accessable to take purchase on the shim it apparently lacked the tinsel strength necessary to be used as a pry bar. As I soon found out. Suddenly there was a barely audible snap sound as I noticed the end of the screwdrive bit had broken off. But, where did it go? Could it have fallen down the open spark plug hole into the cylinder directly below? If so it has proven to be unretreavable thus far using a telescopic magnet. Or could it have flipped over and fallen down the space along side of the timing chain down into the dark oiley bowels of the engine inevitably destined to be the perverbal "monkey wrench in the machinery". If I ignore it's disappearence and relocation. So far it is nowhere visually or magnetically apparent within a six foot radius in all directions that I can tell.:bang head: The only recourse I can think of after days of searching is to start a disassembly process on the bike until I either find it or hear it hit the floor. 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After changing out my clutch with the Barnett Pressure Plate and Barnett Carbon Fiber Friction Discs, I also found my clutch release point was very close to the handgrip. As soon as I bled the system, all was back to normal. I decided to post the 2nd Generation Clutch Bleed to help anyone who needed it. First off, I put a brick under the kickstand to get my bike near level...then i gathered the tools needed. 5mm Alan Head (Hex) Bit, 8mm wrench, phillips head screwdriver, and a vacuum pump (not necessary but very helpful if you're doing it solo. [ATTACH]51703[/ATTACH] Next step is to remove the left rear cylinder side cover. three 5mm bolts hold this in place. [ATTACH]51714[/ATTACH] Unscrew and remove the resevoir cap and diaphram carefully. Cover your paint with a towel (I was probably a little overdue for a fluid bleed...) Suck out the old fluid from the resevoir using the pump (or a turkey baster) and refill with new DOT 4 brake Fluid (or DOT 3 or DOT 5.1) [ATTACH]51706[/ATTACH][ATTACH]51707[/ATTACH] Attach a plastic tube to the clutch bleeder valve, set up your vacuum pump, and loosen the valve using an 8mm wrench. [ATTACH]51708[/ATTACH] Now, get to pumping...watching the level in the resevoir as to not let it suck any air. When the fluid coming out of the valve is clear, the system is flushed. (NOTE: if you are doing this by hand, (1) loosen the bleeder valve, (2) squeeze and hold the clutch lever, (3) tighten the valve, (4) release the lever...then repeat 1 through 4 about 50 more times being sure to watch the fluid level in the resevoir) Once you are done, close the valve to 4.3 ft/lbs and refill the resevoir. Then replace the diaphram and resevoir cap. [ATTACH]51709[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]51710[/ATTACH][ATTACH]51712[/ATTACH] Put the rubber cover on the bleeder valve and re-install the left rear cylinder cover. Check the fluid is at the appropriate level... [ATTACH]51713[/ATTACH] ...Then fire her up and go for a test ride! Hope this Helps! -Motorpig-
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Quick question... Can you install the Speedbleeders WITHOUT draining the reservoirs? It seems like there would be enough vacuum from the reservoir being closed...that once you remove the old bleeder valve, you might get a little leakage...but that shouldn't drain the reservoir...should it? You expert opinion would be greatly appreciated!
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I have been looking for the valve tool and dang they are expensive. Does anyone have one to sell me or rent one? I have seen some sell for 25$ and that is reasonable, but 75 is way out there. I know there has to be someone out there that has made their own tool. Please show me some more options on how you removed the shims. I seem to just miss all the good deals on the tool and shim kits. Can anyone help? Am I correct that the 1st gen Ventures use a 25mm valve shim?
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I am going to put new 90 degree valve stems on the front and rear of my 06 midnight star venture.....Do they take a special size........And where is a good place to get them....Thanks in advance
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83 fuel petcock valve
DesertRider posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I changed out my fuel filter this morning - hate lining up that set-screw that holds the clamp to the fuel tank. When I went to open the fuel valve back up, the little plastic square knob on the fuel shut-off valve shattered like glass. As a temporary measure to get the gas turned back on so I can use it, I'm going to try to jb-quick weld a make-shift knob onto the sheared off plastic that's fairly flush with the metal valve body. If that don't work, anybody got any other ideas ? Also - when I cut the gas off, the indicator in the knob was vertical for on. I think I turned it one/quarter turn to the left to turn it off. Before I put any turning pressure on a glued on know, I wanted to ask if anyone with a working petcock can check and make sure that as you face the valve from the right side of the bike, that the valve needs to go 1/4 turn to the right (if it was a screw that would be the tightening direction to turn it on). Anybody got a petcock valve for sale ? -
Someone was looking for a valve last night. Here is entire thing. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1983-Yamaha-XVZ-1200-Venture-rear-brake-master-cylinder-/370425478537?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item563f143d89
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Had a nice thing happen to me today (not), the valve stem on my front tire separated. I am curious however other than losing all my air is there any symptoms prior to all out failure I should have noticed? It had only been a few days since my last air pressure check. Joe
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OOPS I am in trouble now While installing my rake for the Trike I broke off an air schrader valve on the top of a fork.:mad: I really don't think there was any air in it/them, but that isn't the problem. The problem is where to find just the schrader valve. Does anyone have one that is in their tool box that some how came up as a spar,,, In short HELP !!!! I know Dumb Ass Move?!! but if you knew the hassle I have had with this triple tree you would understand. Mill work, and fit of this new design sucks.
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I've got an '83 that seems to run great when cold, but once it warms up it seems to drop a cyl.until you hit about 2500, then runs good, it seems to idle fine too. I've replaced the plugs and diaphragms. years ago I had a similar problem [i think] and it had a bad diaphragm. stumped now,think it might be valve adj? or electrical? If I just rev it up it sounds good, but on the road it doesn't matter how much I wash it, it looks like dung under 2500
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after reading on this site and deciding that im not happy with my brakes I have decided i only want to do this once so I am going to rebuild all 3 calipers and both master cylinders, does anyone have a good source for parts? also can i install a bleeder valve from a mkII in my 83 and anyone have one for sale or know where i could get one?
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I removed my tank and when I pulled the gas line off - the brass sleeve going into the the shutoff came out instead of the tube coming off the sleeve. Can I just push it back into the shutoff valve or do I need to do some repair here? HELP!! It is such a nice day and my day off so I want to ride!!
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I am sure there are a few on here that have dealt with leaky valve covers. My 83 with 122,000 miles on it have the original valve cover gaskets. I did do a valve clearance check years ago, but still used the same gaskets. Mine has gotten so bad that it was normal to have a couple of drips off the engine while parked. I also had oil residue on about everything, even my shoes. So, here is how I fixed it. One of the characteristics that was used on the valve covers was using shoulder bolts. This limits the amount of torque or squeeze that can be put on the gaskets and also keeps everything uniform. This is not a bad idea as long as the gaskets have some spring left in them. What I did was I stopped by an auto parts store and bought a buck or so of 1/32nd thick gasket material. I then removed the side covers and the plastic covers that sit on top of the valve covers. I then removed the two outside bolts on the valve cover. I put the bolts in a vice and using a screw driver, pulled the rubber seals off along with the metal washer. Using a hole punch, I made a hole in the gasket material slightly smaller than the bulge on the bolt. I also took scissors and trimmed the outside diameter about the same size as the washer. I then put the gasket on the bolt, then the washer and then the seal. After I seated the seal, I then screwed the bolt back into the valve cover hole, snugging it down, but not bottoming the bolt. I then removed the other two bolts on that side and put gaskets on them. After all eight bolts were back in place, I tightened them down until the shoulder bolt bottomed out. This actually caused oil to squeeze out around the cover gasket. After I tightened all eight bolts, I replaced the plastic cover and went to the other head. After doing this last week, I have put about 300 miles on the bike and the engine is still clean of oil residue and my shoes are also clean. This is not a hard job, costs a buck or so and it works. RandyA -
with the help of the fantastic write-up by v7goose, everything went great and nary a leak! Did find I was able to remove the rear valve cover by sliding it back, after removing the side and middle battery covers. Used dingy's xcel sheets, and was able to reuse a few shims because of it. Also transferred all hand data to new sheet and saved as new file, so I have a record of what shims are in now. Buddyrich came through big-time, lending me the shim kit/tool. Put all my 272's and other odd ones in kit, but wanted to replenish the ever popular 270's. Went to http://www.albaaction.com , and talked to Paul there. They're no longer doing a 'shim swap', but asked him about Sudco since the Yammi's were so expensive. He called back and is now set up with Sudco, so I ordered some at $6.75ea. Will add them to the kit before I send it back. Thanks again to these members and this great site!! Between the valve adj and sync'ing the carbs, she's a new (scarry fast) ride, and good for another 50K miles.
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"Brown Sugar" has decided to start leaking pretty bad on valve covers. mostly rear one. I'm going to try snugging them down but that can cause them to get worse. I know they have a shoulder on these bolt so easy does it. Question is which 2nd gen gasket is the easy to install one? Any of them? Or certain year.
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One side of the caliper for my front right side brake was seized, so I took it off and cleaned it really good. I managed to get the pistons moving again. When I reinstalled it on the bike and bled the brakes, I can't get any pressure to the lever. Fluid is moving into the caliper and will shoot out the bleed valve, but I still can't get pressure. So far I've tried holding my finger over the bleed valve to use as a check valve while pumping the brake and I also pulled the line off the caliper to make sure it was getting fluid. The caliper is full, fluid is coming out of the check valve, but I still can't get pressure. What gives??? I'm totally lost. I had good pressure before and I can't see a leak anywhere. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. -
bought a 2007 with 492mi a month ago. Took to dealership last week and got registered in my name. then I decided Sunday to check on air pressure in tires and shocks. First off I need to find a guage to fit between the rotors and valve stem of front wheel , what a pain. The rear tire wasn't that bad as it has a 90 deg valve stem on it, much better to check and fill(only wish it was turned to the opposite side of the kickstand) The bad news is when I checked rear shock it read zero. I thought no problem Ill just put some in. well I did and in about 60 seconds it was back to zero. Riding without air in the shock shouldnt have hurt it ? I've put close to 400 mile on it in the last week or so. Maybe somethings loose? I checked valve stem and its tight and there isn't any preceivable air leak sound or oil anywhere???
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Ok gang, I have a question and this is the place to get lots of opinions! I have installed Vmax cams and springs in my 1987 Venture 1300 engine. Venture intake valve lash is the same as the Vmax. However, exhaust valve lash is different; Venture: .16 - .20 mm Vmax: .26 - .30 mm Which lash will be right for my Frankenstein?
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I could use a little good advice about a situation I have. I was checking my valve clearances on my 89 Venturer. Things were going pretty well. I bought the special tool and after struggling with it I was able to make a map of all the pads and their numbers. Out of 16 I had 10 that needed attention as some were minimum. I had no shims so I ordered some from Sudco at $6.55 each. I got antsy and decided to move a couple around to fix the clearances. It worked fine when it was on a pair of exhaust or intake. I repaired one and then looked for more. I had no spare shim but I thought I could take one exhaust shim out and then put it in where the intake shim needed replacing. When I rotated the crank I heard a metallic crunch. Not good. The exhaust cam chipped a piece from the lifter where the shim was removed. I was able to put the shim back in but the lifter doesn't rotate like it is supposed too. It will move up and down. I ordered a new lifter. I was trying to confirm my course of action to remedy the situation. If I take the cam out I should be able to replace the lifter. If it works then and spins like it should all should be well. If it doesn't I would use a compressor and check the springs and anything that didn't look right. If that didn't work I would pull the head and check the valve and cylinder. Am I on the right track with this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Sam
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Got the valve shims all taken care of with help from Scooter Bob. None were more than 0.06mm tight, but they are now all on the loose side of the valve clearance tolerance. I had to drill and chisel off one of the allen bolts holding one of the chrome covers since it would not release. Once I get the stud removed and the hole retapped, I will be able to put it all back together again (I hope). As of now, I have pieces and parts all over the garage workshop. It is a real mess. Not really good pictures, but this is my steed in all her naked glory. Thanks again Bob for the help today. Took hours off the time required to get this taken care of. RR
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ok, so my water light keeps comming on. I've been reading back through the 1st gen forum and i've seen 3 different positions that the valve is said to need to be at. one person said that it should have off pointed at the 5 o'clock position. another pointed out 2 o'clock, and someone said off pointing to the 10 o'clock position .. anyone know for sure? i know i'm building pressure (although i don't have the tool to measure the specific amount) and my radiator is full, as well as the bottle in the fairing being over half full. so the only areas i'm not sure about are the tubes, and if the valve is letting water through. it's been cold enough that the thermostat gauge doesn't even move, so i can't tell that way.
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I wanted to share this with you DIY guys out there. I bought this valve spring tool at a local tool discount store. It is too large for removing my VR valve keepers and I had to use the old stand-by . . . a deep socket and rubber hammer. However, it worked great for installing the valve springs. To hold the valve closed I placed a rubber sanding block under the head and in the dome. I then stacked the valve springs and top plate, set the keepers in position, and pressed the tool down on the top of the valve stem. The tool has a spring loaded pin that helps guide the keepers into position. It took a little muscle to press down, but, it worked!
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gaskets for 1984 xvz12 and is there an easy way to change them thanks Gord
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Question for you guys, didn't find anything on the forums ( but i might be blind! ) My draincock is leaking, and i see that there is an O-Ring that goes on that valve, but i have three questions: 1. is it ok to use a Viton O-Ring in there? 2. How do i get the darn thing out? 3. which position is it supposed to be in during regular opperation? the book shows you turning it to "on" for flushing the system, but does that mean that normally off is supposed to point to the left (as you face the headlight, looking at the valve) thanks again!
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