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VR Assistance

  1. hey i have just one valve needle that isnt working anyone know where i can get just the one needle valve? edit: scratch that i fixed the old one
  2. I have read a couple of threads about using VMX cams in our Royal Stars. I have a chance to pick up a pair of complete heads from an 85 VMX1200 for real cheap. Will the cams and valve springs work in my 96 XVZ1300 Tour Classic? Are there better options for the cams?
  3. OK, so I rode up to Helen, GA the other day as I live about 30 min south for Oktoberfest. First time Ive ever had traffic to sit in up in the mountains which is pretty much all I ride. as I sit still at an idle, she starts to smoke. as I begin to move the smoke continues but as I ride out it goes away. Out of curiosity, I've repeated this process and sure enough, it happens just the same. I thought about rings maybe but as I'm reading through, I'm wondering about valve adjustment. I would think if it were rings, it may smoke all the time???? not sure. She's got 45,000 miles on her and if I were to guess, she's not been adjusted. Found a great write up on second gen valve adjustments but no luck finding on here about the 1st gen. sounds like a heck of a job but given my service manuals, you guys and my total disregard for digging into something I've never done before..... well I just don't see why we cant make this just work like a stinking charm! lol Anywho, any thoughts? any links to posts I've not found yet or anything else that could be helpful would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys and gals! Jay
  4. Is there a roaming valve shim kit here somewhere? I have the engine out of my 84 right now and before I put it back in I would like to get the valves adjusted. Happy to cover shipping/etc. costs. Thanks, Bill
  5. So now that winter is almost here, and the riding season has or nearly has ended for most of us, what projects do you have planned for the winter? My projects for this winter in no particular order are; Front progressive springs. Service steering head bearings. New tires. Convert driving lights to HID. Lots more lights. Upgrade stator and RR for more power for all of the lights. Replace or add to the two Bad Boys horns with an even louder horn. Build receiver flag mount. Build receiver cooler rack. Clean up some wiring that was done in a hurry last summer. Finish making my version of the valve shim tool. Check my valve clearances. New spark plugs and wires. Carb diaphragms. Center brake light for the trailer. Cooler rack for the trailer. Some of these are not needed right away so will get done on a cash available basis. Dang that is a lot of work. I better get started soon.
  6. I've seen that there are several valve shim kits floating around, like RandyR sent his kit to Bill, all I was wondering if someone had two 270s and one 285 shims, I have a bunch of 275s and 280s to swap, or are the numbers I need the ones that every else needs/used and are thus hard to get? I haven't tried a dealer yet to see if they do swaps. I don't need the shim tool either. I'm located in Milwaukee, I'm hoping to find some soon as I want to have my engine buttoned up & back in the frame over Memorial Day weekend. -Andrew
  7. Is anyone out there loaning/renting a valve shim kit? I can't verify that the PO ever checked the valves and one of the cover gaskets seems to be leaking, so I might as well pull it apart and make sure. Thanks in advance, Iz
  8. Since I have found the button to make a "new thread" I will copy what was said before I ask my next question.... chrislemon I had no back brakes and so I replaced all the cylinders in my rear caliper in the fall. Now that it is spring I see I still don't have rear brakes. Upon further investigation it looks like I am getting lots of air when bleeding the back brakes but still no pressure on the back brakes and yet the front is doing great and the fluid reservoir burbs when I apply the front brakes. When I cracked the line going into my rear calipers and apply the back brake I did not get a surge of fluid coming out. What should I check now? PS I can't seem to find where the metering valve is located either (how to get to it) bongobobny Now, chances are you probably have a plugged up proportioning valve which is attached to the rear of the rear master cylinder. The metering valve, on the other hand is attached to the frame towards the front by the battery along with another bleeder as there is a high point in the lines and air can get trapped there. Due to the fact you are saying the front brake works fine there should be nothing wrong with that as the metering valve only works with the front brakes... chrislemon Now my question is "where is the rear master cylinder"? I would think its the brake reservoir on the handlebars but I don't have anything attached to it. If it is in another location than that tells me I am also bleeding my rear brakes and filling the front brake reservoir. Sometimes its just better to leave things to a mechanic(go ahead and have a good laugh at my expense). PS When I do find this proportioning valve, do I just blow it out to unplug it? Thanks Newbie
  9. I installed Speed Bleeders ™ on the clutch and on all brake bleeding points yesterday (perhaps I shouldn't have chosen Friday the Thirteenth) and flushed all clutch and brake fluids with new fresh DOT4. Everything was going swell until I replaced the last bleed valve on the rear caliper and could not get any fluid to come out of the bleeder when I attempted to bleed the rear brake line. I replaced the Speed Bleeder with the OEM and attempted to bleed as normal and again no fluid would emit. I removed the bleeder and depressed the brake foot pedal, but still no fluid at rear caliper. I can see that there is fluid in the open port where the bleeder fits, but none comes out when I depress the pedal. I have a very firm pedal and the left front brake works. I tried rebleeding the entire system and did not encounter any air at the front or at the metering bleeder near the steering head. I removed the plastic elbow with the reservoir fill hose attached to it and drained the reservoir. I examined the two ports inside the master cylinder that are visible when the elbow is removed and noted that the orifices were open as I depressed the pedal. I reinstalled the elbow, refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid and rebled the front left, the steering head metering bleed valve and attempted to bleed the rear once again without success. Same results, no fluid and no pressure at the pistons. Applying the pedal does not apply the brakes on the rear wheel but the front left brake works fine. It seems to me that the proportioning valve mounted on the master cylinder is stuck, perhaps, but I don't know enough about the internal plumbing of the master cylinder/proportioning valve to know if this is likely. It is not an easy task to remove the master cylinder and or the proportioning valve, so I am asking for guidance towards some other cause for me to have no pressure at the rear caliper. The last time I rode the bike a couple weeks ago, the brakes seemed to work fine, even two up. I only encountered a problem after I installed the Speed Bleeders™. (Thanks to your suggestion, Condor!)
  10. Good morning all. My first post. I have purchased a 1986 venture royale that was sitting for years. It came complete with mouse nest and chewed wires. It had so much dirt and grime on it that I decided to strip it to the bones. I have every piece of plastic, faring, luggage, crome and electronic off it now and it is all cleaned up quite nicely. I am about to take care of the known issues which are spongy front brakes, almost no clutch pressure and a rear brake rotor replacement. I think I should check the valve clearances and will replace all the oils, spark plugs coolant ect. Is there any other specific things I should do or check while it is stripped. Head bearings, swing arm bearings feel good. Front fork seals are not leaking. Thanks in advance T
  11. TEW47

    Flat tire

    Here I go again another flat on the front. This is the third time on the front tire the most I have had in forty years. It is also leaking around the valve stem again. Is the stock valve stem with the nut on it the best? I am going to order a Michelin on wednesday. Two nails with a bad valve stem again another time. tew47:depressed:
  12. Really good info on the brake systems. Hoping some one can save me some time on where to start. One clue is I had some brakes not as much as I would like. When I store my bike for the winter I would lose my rear brake and linked front brake. I realize some seals must be leaking right? Does my rear master need to be rebuilt and can I get a kit.I did remove the plunger assy and took out the proportioning valve trying to understand how it works. I read a thread and now understand.I do very similar work with oil pressure ,valves ,seals ect.The seals in the valve seem to be worn can I get those seals. I love this bike and would love to stop well and still keep the bike stock if possible.
  13. So, after 2 years of having a couple of local shops (with the same migrating staff) adjust carbs for poor fuel mileage and backfiring (particularly on deceleration), I went to another shop after they couldn't seem to fix the issues. He was asking a series of different questions about valve adjustments, etc that the other shops weren't. He said he wanted to do a leak down test...One reading was a wopping 83%. So, I understand I am in for a valve job after getting jerked around with carb adjustments for 2 years to try to fix my measely 200-250 km per tank and decel backfiring. The new-to-me shop is a one-man shop, charges a much more reasonable hourly rate than others I have been going to, and has been seemingly much more knowledgeable. One question...just because I am tired of being jerked around....what does a valve job on an 03 Venture generally go for? I understand between the leak-down test, the valve job and whatever else comes into play I am looking at the better part of 2500-3K. Thanks
  14. I just had my valves adjusted as part of a 25K maintenance. There was always a little valve chatter, but now they sound like a coffee can filled with bolts. The dealer says that the valves tighten/quieten over time; seems adjusting the valves back to spec just makes them noisier. Does that sound right to you?
  15. Watched a brake job today. The instructor used an old Gatorade bottle and 3/16th hose as the vacuum for the job. Really worked well. The way it was set up is to take a length of hose that fits over your bleeder valve and drill a hole in the bottle cap that the hose will just slip into. Run the hose through the cap into the bottle. Then hook the free end to your bleeder valve. When you are ready to start bleeding/draining the fluid, open the cap on the bottle slightly, and squeeze the bottle. While holding the bottle in the "crushed" condition, tighten the bottle cap which will create a vacuum in the line. Open the bleeder valve and the fluid will flow. If the vacuum is exhausted before the bleed is finished, just close the valve, open the bottle cap and crush again. I was impressed with how well it worked.
  16. I have a 1999 Venture with right at 40k miles on her. My valve covers, both of them are leaking like crazy. I'm having the dealer replace them so my question is it to early to have them adjust the valves? I know they are due at 52k but I really do not want to pay twice for them to go in there. Thanks guys.
  17. Hi. I found I have a slight leak from my rear wheel valve where it goes inside the rim. I managed to seal one on another wheel (I have two rear wheels and alternate them on new tyres) but this one is SOLID. It is a very slow leak but the tyre had lost a good amount of pressure since October when it was laid up. I managed to seal the first leak by removing the two locking nuts and cup from the valve and pushing the valve inwards allowing air to escape and clean the seating by moving the valve assembly from side to side but as I say this one is SOLID.. Firstly to find out if you have a leak spray some water/washing up liquid mixture and look for the tell tale sign of small bubbles. This leak has happened to both of my wheels now due to corrosion. Secondly I have not seen how the valve fits into the inside of the rim as I have my tyres fitted for me and I cannot find anything in the manuals that shows how the assembly fits. I PRESUME I know how but presumption can be dangerous so your excellent help would be much appreciated. Many Thanks. Neil. (Old Miner).
  18. Hello, I disassembled and cleaned out the carbs last weekend per the service manual. To make sure I didn't miss something, I've been going through the forum threads and articles. "mbrood" did a Carb Overhaul write-up in Tech section. In the 3rd to last paragraph he talks about the "The factory-set needle-valve screw..." The problem is, I have no idea what he's talking about. I'm concerned that I screwed in something too tight and ruined the needle valve now. Everything I unscrewed was TIGHT, so I put them back normal tight. I understand the needle valve and float relationship. He talks about a spring loaded screw for adjusting fuel flow. I don't understand what screw he's talking about. Can you guys help? Any references in the manual pages/pictures/ID numbers would really help. Regarding float level, it never dawned on me to check or adjust for this change. I understand the principle of putting fuel in the carb and letting the float rise up to shut off flow. I don't understand (1) why fuel level is so critical in the bowl (I thought it just had to have enough fuel in there to be able to maintain flow... assuming more was better) and (2) how to know where the float is at shutoff point when the bowl cover has to be on in order to fill the bowl. How do you get the float to remain stationary so you can check it's position? I read Squidley's recent thread on float level, and understand what he's measuring, but what has to happen at that level - start compressing the float needle valve spring? Or just making contact with the float needle valve? I'm (obviously) very new to carb work and appreciate your time and input. I'm anxious to learn though Many thanks in advance!
  19. I would like to know if anyone in Fla or South Ga. is planning on doing a valve job on their Venture. I do not need one on my bike but I have read all the posts on our site and really want to try it. I plan on learning it and then helping our members out. I have a carbtune and could teach that now and do adjustment for members. The valve adjustment is very interesting to me and so I would like to help, watch and learn. Please let me know and I will drive to the event/maintenance day or days. I also would purchase a shim kit for all to use. If anyone has one for sale please let me know as well. I am more than ready to tackle this job. Thanks to Goose for his excellent write up on how to perform this maintenance task. thanks, DanC:cool10:
  20. Wondering if I might have a couple of guys that might want to tackle a valve adjustment on the iron horse before we get into spring? I do not have any experence at it but with the write up from VGoose it looks to be fairly easy just time consuming. We could do it in my garage or at someone else's. I do not have a carbon one lift adapter but I do have a craftsman jack. Should have all the tools needed accept for the shim kit and special tool. Also would need a carbtune for after we adjust the valves. If we get some intrest maybe we could round one up from another member or I could just buy one. Let me know what you think out there. I know I have a grill that cooks some mean steaks, and the garage refrig has cold beer. Brian Shoemaker 706-635-1580
  21. Not how I wanted to spend this afternoon and tomorrow. My son Wes, on the right in the picture, complained to his landlord (me) that the hot water knob on his tub was leaking when he turns it on. Ok, simple job, remove the knob and tighten the packing nut, right? NOT!!!!!! First the Phillips head retaining screw is already stripped! Bad sign, to start with. Ok Get the handy dandy new H/F screw extractors. Didn't work, ended up drilling the head off so I can use Vise Grips. You guessed it the stub broke right off flush with the valve. Ok, just remove the valve and go to Ace for a replacement. Again, OH H@LL NO!!! the packing nut has been tightened BEYOND tight and the faucet arrangement is NOT a solid bar. There are separate valves for hot and cold with hoses running to a TEE under the faucet. SOOO, you guessed it, instead of the packing nut coming out, the whole valve turned, loosening the supply line nut, causing a bigger leak. Does this tub have an access cover? Another H@LL NO!!! SOOOO, take a look at the picture to see where I left it at 9:30 tonight.......
  22. Any members in Florida have a shim kit...or just the shim tool...that wouldn't mind loaning them out for a couple of weeks? Decided to take the plunge and check the clearance on my valve shims, and replace the ones that need replacing! Thanks!
  23. Just some little info for you all. I could not find any info on how the proportioning valve is put together and I know someone else (& it was a dealer) worked on the one I have on my parts bike before I got the bike, because the rear brakes would not release after you pump on the rear brake pedal. First I checked the rear caliper by opening the rear bleeder and then the wheel would move just fine . I checked the rear master for a pluged up return little hole but that was clean , I rebuilt the master because I had it out , so then on to the proportioning valve . Well I took it apart and found the following. The person before me put the last seal in under the spring washer which is wrong. It is to go in the end nut and then I also found out that the first seal you install DO NOT INSTALL ON THE PISTON.(which the dealer did ) and I also did the first time. The proportioning valve will not work ,the seal goes to the wrong place and will not release the pressure back to the master. You have to install the first seal by pushing it down the tube all the way to the bottom then push the piston into the seal then install the spring,spring washer and last the nut with the seal placed inside if the nut. Then I put back on my bike Everything works fine. Just to prove that even if you take it apart and put it back the way you took it apart, may be the wrong way and that is what I found out. It would have been nice to have a breakdown of it to save some time. The Yamaha service manual does not have anything on the proportioning valve except a picture for my 1986 Venture Royal. I hope this info might help others that have the same problem. Most of the time this problem is a plugged small return hole in the master but not this time.
  24. The CLASS system on my bike is acting up. I noticed it this summer but decided to wait until the winter months to tear in to it. The time has come. I thought that it just wasn't holding air due to a broken line but tonight I found that I don't have a broken air line. Here is what is happening When I turn the key to accessory, the discharge valve opens and all of the air is let out of the system. Leaving the system in the AUTO mode, I can pump up the front. When the desired pressure is reached, I get a small puff of air out of the discharge valve and everything is fine. According to the service manual this is normal. When I pump up the rear, the desired pressure is reached and then the discharge valve opens and lets all of the air out. I can immediately pump it back up but as soon as it hits the correct pressure, the discharge valve opens and all of the air escapes. Tonight I learned that the manual mode works fine. I can add or release air as needed. I also noticed tonight that I was getting a random E4 code that could be cleared by cycling the power. I never got this code during the summer. Even though the correct pressure is registering on the display, does this sound like a defective pressure sensing unit?
  25. Its time to do some maintenance on the bike. I broke my leg. I have the valve shim kit, but lost my valve tool. I remember a member who sells the tool, but its not in the list of member classified listings. I'll also be looking to buy a clutch kit. Can anyone here lead me in the right direction? The pain killers are mudddling my brain. I may also need some plastic repair kit.
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