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Showing results for tags 'tube'.
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I'm rebuilding a set of forks for the 89 VR. The online parts fiches are pretty sketchy on the slide bushing that goes on the inner fork tube. The one that presses into the outer tube is known as 3JJ-23125-00-00 METAL, SLIDE 1. Anyone have the part number for the other one? Thanks! -
I bought a pair of the Diamond R swinging pegs for my passenger. To install, the rear floorboard bolt needs to be removed. The left side one was very tight, but it came out. The right side one is beyond tight. I was using the bike toolkit since I wanted to install them at lunch and surprise her after work. The L-shaped "allen wrench" didn't move it, so I used the tube to make a breaker bar. No joy. I don't want to damage the bolt, so I stopped. Is the bolt really that tight? Should I use penetrating oil? Ideas? Dave
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When installing the new progressive springs at what point in the procedure does one refill the fork oil (13.5oz.) into each tube? I will be changing seals and all. Thanks -
Stopped by Honda of Jax today to buy a tube of moly 60 paste. They had only one left and it was resealed sloppily with tape, the cap covering the tube was askew and there was grease marks on the tube. I asked if they had any more in the back as I know this is a standard ploy to only display something they want to get rid of before they put out the good stuff. They said no. One of the mechanics came over and said that sometimes they might run out of their stock in the rear and might open up a tube and take a "dab" from it then reseal it. Told them that i wasnt too comfy paying full retail (15.99) for an open and obviously used package. They just shrugged their sholders and I walked out. Now im pretty sure that there was nothing wrong with the grease itself, but I sure didnt like the way the dealers retail staff handles their product and customers. Sorry guys, but im no idiot.
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My '85 muffler tips rusted out and since the rest was solid, I scored a major hit! Not knowing what I would find, I sawed off the rusted out tips up to a 3/8" from the seam at the widest point of the bell. To my surprise, I found a very thick, recessed end baffle (that has a nice look) with the exhaust tube comming through all the way to the end of the original tip. I cut the tube off even with the new opening and recessed it about 1/2" back into the mouth and painted the whole interior of the opening with a high temp black paint. You wouldn't believe how sharp it looks! Clean and racey. So, before you trash your mufflers, chop'em! What could you lose?
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I have the forks off a 82 XJ 650 & using a 8mm hex sosket on the bottom of the lower tube, and a 12mm hex socket with all my extentions down the upper tube, both seem to turn (spin) but will not loosen the dampning rod. Any ideas? Need to remove dampning rod to replace the fork seals. H E L P Thanks :canada:
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Maybe! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbvOmqfK2Y8&feature=related]YouTube - best idiot of the world[/ame]
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A lot of years ago, I bought some chrome fork tube protectors for my '83. I thought they were made by RIVCO, but I see they don't list them on their site. Now I need another set--does anybody remember who makes (or made) them?
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i recently pulled my carb diaphragms out. i noticed that the "bottom section", of the tubes, were pretty scratched up. the FIX, is to take the "tube" in one hand, press the diaphragm end into your other palm, twist the tube. this re-orients the "tab" in relation to the scratched tube! i do not believe the rubber coated part is actually "glued " to the insert and washer. i believe it is merely a close press fit. some one correct me, if i'm wrong, here. just jt:banana:
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Bought CarbTune & Tachometer. Right now all set up, engine warmed up enough so fan running on radiator. Found idle at 1550. No problem do initial syncing of carbs - just to find right adj. screws. My problem is I cannot get bike to idel at 1100 - it stalls. If reving, smooths out then stalls. Minimum is 1150, still pins on carb tube move so violently hard to adjust. Why won't this bike idle at 1000. WOn't even run at 900 at book says. New fuel filter, new iridium plugs, etc. Please advise.
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I have little to no vaccum on one cylinder on the 86. It will not read on the carbtune, althou you can feel a little on the tube at manifold and if you take the restrictor out the rod will move up about an inch and bounce. I did a compression check this evening and all cylinders were around 200 plus or minus 4 lbs., which the manual says 199 is the high side with 142 being minumum and 171 standard. I have tried spraying WD40 around the carb boots with no rise in rpm. I checked the tube at manifold with a torch cleaning tip and felt no obstructions. All this was advice from Muffinman, Jeff I rechecked the compression on 1 and 2 only turning it over 3 times and the front cylinder read 150 and the rear 90lbs. Any one else have any suggestions?????????
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Was tracing out the overflow tube (Fuel Breather Tube) on my 06RSV from the gas tank to see which of the tubes under the bike corresponded to that tube. Anyways, I noticed under the seat the tube has what appears to be an inline filter before exiting out the bottom & venting to the ground. Is there really a filter inline? If so, why on an overflow tube? Just wondering...thanks!
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Just replaced my tires yesterday. The front was, I believe, the original brick & the rear was a 404 replacement & it was worn to the "nubbs". I bought my RSV used with 5800 miles on it. I now have 12000 miles on it. There was a tube in the rear tire. The shop that replaced my tires were out of the valve stem that fits the RSV so back in went the tube. It seems to ride & handle much better than before. Probably because of the new tire up front. Question is, is a tube in the tire okay or what? Thanks, DNB
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I dont really care for the manual's float adjustment for 1st Gens I have the carbs off is there a way to measure the float without the tube of fuel. Can measure it when your inside the carbs?
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I installed Avon tires today and decided to check the splines on the drive shaft,.. There was a little grease in there, but I stuffed some moly on for insurance. I installed the pumpkin back on as per bulletin and finished putting everything back together. Once off the lift I went to put the bike in gear and heard a strange crunch/clank noise.. bike stalled. I tried repositioning the pumpkin a number of times now and got the rear diff lined up good.. but here's the strange thing.. I can spin the rear tire even if the bike is in gear. I've been reading all the posts here and am thinking that the shaft isn't pushed into the tube all the way.. When I push the drive shaft into the tube is it suppose to seat and not turn? I can't get it to mesh with anything,.. it sort of spins. Do I need to pop the rubber boot off the top of the drive shaft tube (if I can find it) and get the drive shaft to mesh with the gears using the coat hanger hook trick.. ???
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Evening all, I come in search of knowledge and advice. I'm rebuilding the forks on an 89 MkII and I've run into some oddities. Quick background, someone previously has been into the bike who shouldn't have. When I went to take the handlebars off, both pinch bolts were backed way out. There are other things like this with the bike. So, I create a tool to disassemble the forks (worked well, cheap, write up to follow if anyone is interested.) and got things separated. The bottoms of these forks have been beat to death! The hole in the bottom that the allen bolt should come out of was so mangled that judicious use of a dremel tool was necessary to get the bolt all the way out. Once everything was apart, it appears I have some issues. 1. I appear to be missing the tapered spindle, part #26H-23173-00-00 from one side. What the heck? I've looked everywhere, don't THINK I could have lost it, but maybe. 2. And this is where I could use some guidance. There are still some parts "stuck" in the bottom of the upper fork tube. I can see and feel what looks like a white plastic notched or "castellated" washer type part, and there appear to be some parts "above" that. I've tried some judicious tapping with an appropriately sized socket to drive them out, but don't want to use too much force on these parts. 3. Neither fork as, as far as I can find, the two washers #26H-2319L-00-00 or the single valve spring #26H-2319M-00-00. I'm wondering if the forks could have been assembled improperly, and now those parts are jammed in the bottom of the fork tube. 4. The fork springs that were in the bike are about 75% of the length of the Progressives I'm replacing them with. I'll post pics, but the difference is ridiculous. The forks had absolutely no pre-load on them whatsoever, even with some gargantuan spaces made out of electrical conduit. So, should I continue to try to get the parts out of the bottom of the upper fork tube, or are they supposed to be where they are? I'm really thinking they need to come out, but would like other opinions. Thanks everyone! Paul -
I was looking at some highway pegs and was going to order but wasnt sure what diameter the engine guard on my 85 vr is. It looks like 1 inch tube but would like to be sure before I order. Any experts got this off the top of their heads? Thanks in advance, Brian:think:
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I need some help figuring out what is wrong with my bike before I decide to dig deep into it. I have an '86 venture that has 74 K miles and has an unknown history for most of those miles. Here are some recent repairs: new plugs 1/2 yr ago, new cables & caps this year, new diaphragms last year, carbs synced last fall. My scoot has been underpowered for some time and is getting worse. Tonight I was out looking trying to rule some obvious things out. One thing that is new and significant is that I found a small amount of emulsified oil and what appears to be radiator fluid in the air box (see picture). It seems that it is coming from the engine breather tube that is feed back in to the air box. After the engine is warm you can see a steady stream of smoke/vapor coming out of this tube in the air box. I also do not know what that chamber does that is mounted between the "V", it appears to have both cooling and the engine breather tube. I can't seem to find good documentation on this thing . . . So . . . Do I have a blown head gasket, needs a valve job, or could this be caused by something else?? This site is awesome and very friendly! Thanks for your help! Mike -
I seldom go on You Tube, but a friend flagged this to me. It is an intersection car/cycle crash where the car obviously ran a red light. This is not for the faint at heart as the biker took a bad hit. But, on a lighter note, there are many more short videos attached near that are down right funny and it is amazing how stupid some people are. RandyA [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a68i-NDjdlc[/ame]
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On the upper front engine mount there is a guide tube between mounts with the solid mounts does this guide tube still fit in between with the solid mounts it doesnt seem like it? -
Hello all: I have a '90 VR and noticed that the accordian-style fork tube cover boots have tears in them. Any suggestions in repairing these to keep dirt, etc. off the fork tubes and keep the boots looking good? Thanks for your help. Grayghost.
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Recently found out my fork tubes are slightly bent, from last years deer impact. So I am ordering a set of Franks Forks, as replacements $245 pair Vs $198 each from yamaha (best price found). I am changing out all the fork bushings too. Yamaha doesn't list the upper tube bushing separately from the fork tube itself & after some searching I found racetech.com does have the bushings listed.
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Sometimes we get a nick in the metal fork tube (chrome) and it can cause a fork seal to be torn and eventually leak after replacement. You really do not want to replace that expensive tube and the good news is, you might not have to. For a nick in one of my tubes, I followed a similar procedure desribed here: First, sand the rough edges of the burr with various grits of wet sandpaper, perhaps starting with a 220 grit and going up to a 600 grit. Anything not handled by these sandpapers may need a careful touch with a fine file, just to take the high impacted (raised) metal down. The nick or pit (in the case of rust) should be cleaned of any corrosion and again sanded on the edges to eliminate roughness. Then a dab of epoxy (J.B. Weld Kwik) which sets in 5 minutes may be added to the nick. Afterwards, you can sand the epoxy level with a sanding block conforming to the tube shape. The epoxy should be sanded until it is not higher than the rest of the tube and not really noticeable to the touch even. If it is still lower (concave - needing to be filled) add another layer of epoxy after the first sanding. If you get this right, you will have a durable surface that will not leak or tear a new seal and without replacing an expensive fork tube. You might want to rotate the tube so it is not readily noticeable somewhere near the back for the best aesthetic appeal. Hope this makes someone else a happy camper too, Louie
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Fork Seal Replacement The manual will tell you to remove the fork assembly from the Bike, but this is not necessary! What I will explain is in my opinion is the fastest way to do the job. Special Tools needed Impact wrench (electric or air ) 17 MM hex head socket 8 or10 MM hex head socket (Most are 10mm but I have found 8mm) Last but not least you will need a tool to insert the seal into the fork body. Yamaha sells a tool, but it won’t work with this procedure, I made mine. See photo “tool” The rest of the tools needed come in the bike tool kit. To start: Place the bike on the center stand and a floor jack under the motor for safety. Remove as much air as possible from the front forks. { this is very important!} There is a small screw on each of the forks facing outward, this screw will let oil come out when removed and will let the rest of the pressure out, so unless you want a bath have a container ready. Remove the front brake calipers, wheel, and fender Place a container; pan something to catch the oil when you do the next step. Using an 8 or 10 MM allen socket and impact wrench remove the bolt at the end of the lower tubes. Remove the fork brace. Raise the dust cover on the first tube (small screw driver will work) Use screwdriver to remove the locking ring under the dust cover. Remove the plastic cover on the steering head and (86-93 disconnect the plug for the lights.) Remove the grills on both sides of the steering head. Remove the handlebars from the steering head (you don’t need to remove or disconnect anything just put them to the side) Remove the plastic/rubber covers on the fork tube caps. Loosen the 2, 12 MM headed bolts (or cap head bolts on later models) at the top brace on each side. NOW BE CAREFUL! Using the 17 MM hex head socket and what I call a speed wrench; stand on the foot pegs positioning your self so that the end of the speed wrench is against you shoulder when you loosen the tube caps. The caps have fine treads and are spring loaded so again be careful. Remove upper assembly & the spring on Yamaha springs or the plastic spacer and springs on Progressive springs for cleaning. Now to remove the lower tube by using it as you would the weight on a slide hammer, they don’t come off easy so start out easy and increase force until the two separate. When they do come apart; clean the inside of the lower tube be sure to note how the small pieces fit! If they are not put back the way they came out the anti-dive won’t work… Now remove the bad seal and replace it with the new one, be sure to use a little oil on the seal before installing it on the tube. Note to remove the old seal you have to remove the upper and lower bushings, silver washer, seal and gold colored washer when you put them back keep them in the same order. Reassemble in reverse of the above. You will need 13.5 oz of 10 or 15 WT fork oil for each tube. If the bike has a lot of miles or you live in hot country use 15WT Good luck and ride safe If you have a problem you can e-mail firstgen@mtariders.com or call 775-751-2169 Fred Vogt tool
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Under the bike ('06 RSTD) on the port side there are four tubes that vent stuff overboard. Starting from the first tube (closest to the front) and ending with the last tube (farthest aft), can anyone tell me exactly what each puke tube does? TIA.
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