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Showing results for tags 'trailer'.
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So how much weight is safe to pull behind an 84 VR? I've seen these Aspen popup campers that are being pulled by mototcycles. I have an old Nimrod Capri that's 12" wider and a couple inches shorter. I was wondering how much of a difference there would be. I don't know how heavy it is but I can slide it side to side by myself when it's hooked to my car. I would thing it would catch alot of sidewinds and cause alot of drag. How heavy is a typical trailer anyway?
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I am getting ready to buy or make a trailer! I found one for $300, havenot looked at it yet. Has 8 inch wheels is 48" long 30" wide, Has a swivel hitch. I am looking at building one using the Harbor Frieght trailer w/ 12" wheels as mentioned here. I figure if this will run me around $300 anyways. Question, which is better 8 or 12 " wheels and why?
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Dont:no-no-no: try to load an 1100 Honda Shadow on a trailer after 4 Crown and Sevens-----Buzz
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Been looking for a trailer hitch to tow bike long distances since girlfriend only last's 2-300 miles on back of bike. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180020455266&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1 How much trouble is it to tow my RSTD with the back tire down and front up? Do I have to pull drive shaft? Any info is appreciated since I'm remoldeling house money is tight. Ride safe and God Bless. Mike
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Modulite Installation Note: The Modulite and similar units are designed for isolating and converting your trailer wiring from the bikes lighting circuit. These units are designed to go from a bikes lighting system which uses separate turn signals to a conventional trailer lighting setup that combines the turn signals with the brake/tail lights. It will NOT work if your trailer uses conventional motorcycle type lighting with separate turn signals. If your trailer uses motorcycle type lighting, you will need to purchase an "isolation" unit. There are several on the market. Bushtec sells their own unit and the Electrical Connection also sells one. Here is a link to the unit at the Electrical Connection. http://electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns-trailer.htm This installation is for the Modulite trailer wiring kit. The specific one that I used is model 18146. There is more information on this unit HERE. There are other models and brands that will also work but this just happens to be the one that I used. There are a number of places that this unit could be mounted and other ways that the wiring can be routed to the plug at the rear of your bike. This way worked well for me. This installation is on the Yamaha RSV but these units will also work great on the First Gen Venture or the RSTD. I mounted the unit under the seat. This particular model is slender and will slide down beside the battery. Here is a picture of the unit. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/moduliteout.JPG Wiring is fairly simple. Anybody can do this job if you simply follow the instructions and take your time. There are 6 wires coming out of the unit from the side that says "To Car"...or in our case..."To Bike". There is a black wire that is labeled 12V...you need to run that wire through an inline fuse and then directly to the positive battery terminal. There is also a "ground" or "negative" wire that will connect to the negative terminal of the battery. There are 4 wires that connect to the wiring harness of your bike. An easy place to splice these into the bikes harness is at the natural color connector just behind the battery. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/connections.jpg You can see that I used snap type wire splices for this but I plan to redo these over the winter and use soldered connections. I am just not a big fan of these snap splices. They will work though if you don't wish to do the soldering. The connections are as follows. There is a green wire marked "right signal" out of the Modulite. Splice into green wire at bike's connector. Yellow wire marked "left signal" out of the Modulite. Splice into brown wire at bike's connector. Red wire marked "Stop" out of Modulite. Splice into yellow wire at bike's connector. Brown wired marked "Tail Lights" out of Modulite. Splice into Blue wire at bike's connector. That's it for the wiring. Now just tape up the splices you made. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/connectionstaped.jpg These next two pictures show how I slid the unit into the space beside the battery. The first shows it about half way in and in the second picture, it is slid all the way down. I used a tie wrap to secure it there but it wouldn't go anywhere even without one. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/modulitehalf.JPG http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/modulitein.JPG All that remains now is to run the wires coming out of the "To Trailer" side of the Modulite to the hitch of your bike. I ran mine across the top of the fender first and under the trunk. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/fenderroute.jpg I then came out from under the trunk and through rubber grommet behind the license plate so that I could route the wires on the inside of the rear fender. As you can see...I also used some wiring loom to cover them at this point. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/rearroute.jpg Finally, I brought them from inside the fender about the hitch and to the connector. As you can see, I again used some wire loom and also replaced the flat connector with the round type. That is simply a matter of choice. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/hitch.jpg That is all there is to it. Pretty simple and works great. -
I like the Diamond R trailer hitch but I have a mudflap on the rea of my RSV. Has anyone installed it and how did you cut the Mudflap? Pix please. If not will the venture dad one work. Please advise! I want to make a flag holder for the PGR but need a hitch first. -
LIGHTS LIGHTS AND MORE LIGHTS It seems that every time we buy some thing new for our venture it has a light or two attached or needs 12V power to run it, and the alternator can only give so much to keep up with our demands for more power. The alternator can produce between 20 and 24.5 amps and after taking away the 10-12 amps needed for the normal operation of the bike you have about 10 amps to work with. Now when you add a trailer you tax the system even more because most trailer lights take about 2.5 amps for running lights and 5-6 amps when the brake lights come on. That doesn't leave much left for the rest of the goodies we have installed that use power so it would seem we have a problem? NO PROBLEM, it only means we need a power manager and the simplest is to have all of the lights we have installed on one or more switches so we can turn them off when there not needed. Speaking of installing lights, trailer or a sidecar the following are some tips on the best place I have found to hook up to power. Lights For lights; any convenient brown wire will supply 12V switched on by the key, but if you also wish use a power bus to supply all of the extra lights you have added, then use the large brown wire coming from the Ignition. switch and be sure to add a 15-20A fuse because this wire comes directly from the main fuse through the Ignition. switch. Then use this source to power all of the switches to control your lights. Trailers Trailers are a different story because your brake lights and tail lights are monitored by the computer and if they are hocked up wrong they can damage the sensor board in the computer. the safest place to attach trailer lights is at the rear brake switch using the brown wire for the running lights and the yellow wire for stop lights. For turn signal lights you can connect directly to the dark green wire at the right turn light and the chocolate wire for the left turn light. For those of us that all ready have trailers and extra lights it might be a good idea to check on the wiring to see that it was done the safe way. Relays I have found all sorts of uses for relays on my Venture, the following is a setup I use on my 91. The relays are from Radio Shack and are for circuit board mounting, they will carry 10 Amps and only require 160 ma to operate the coil. The wiring is straight forward "NO" is the normally open contacts, Com its the wiper or moving contact, the coil has no polarity, #5 is Bat - Frame or black wire; #10 is bat + and I used a 15 amp fuse on this wire; and for the sake of the explanation I will give the rest of the wires a function, #1 wire is connected to the brake light and # 9 wire goes to the trailer stop lamps; # 2 wire is connected to the tail light and # 8 goes to the trailer running lights, #3 wire is connected to the right turn signal and # 7 wire goes to the trailer right turn light, # 4 wire is connected to the left turn signal and # 6 wire goes to the trailer left turn light. You my ask why go to the trouble to have a relay on the flashers; Well their are two reasons #1 when you connect your trailer flashers directly to the bike you load the system and the flashers go to fast, # 2 all of the lights on the trailer are brighter because their running on full voltage. Also if something shorts out on the trailer you don't loose a fuse on the bike. I used 18 ga wire on # 5 and # 10 and 20 ga wire on the rest. The computer monitor costs over $900.00 at a dealer. http://www.venturerider.org/pictures/4relay.gif Fred Vogt 1037
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Alright folks, I know you've all scoured the internet for parts for your bikes. Lots of 'em hard to find, most of 'em you get outbid at the last second, sometimes even costing you more than the bike did by the time the auctions are over. Well, I just found this ebay store that I think may get a lot of you excited. http://stores.ebay.com/PinWall-Cycle-Parts-Inc_Yamaha-Venture-Royal-Star_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ4QQftidZ2QQtZkm 704 Items. 24 pages of 1st and 2nd gen parts and accessories. ALL OF THEM WITH BUY IT NOW!!! And from looking at the prices, looks like some really good deals. About the only items I didn't find on there were trailer hitches and Carbs. It looks like these guys are based out of Ohio too, so maybe if we ask nicely we can get Don to take that nice new trailer he got and pick up parts for us.
