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Showing results for tags 'tool'.
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I do not have any more. Two additional members have showned interest so I'll start a 2nd Group order. Pricing will depend on the order quantity. Your posting here is not a committment to purchase but just an interest depending on the cost. Lets temporarly set 7 April as a cut off day. Please post here if you interested in one. ************************ 1) The threads that are cut on the tool to go on the Speedometer are cut to match the threads exactly so there is so very little room for grease to make its way out the threads. He took measurements of the origional coupling threads and the threads on the speedometer. 2) The tool is screwed onto the speedometer several, several, several times so the grease has a long way to travel before it could come out the coupling threads if it could get past 1) above. 3) The tool can also be screwed onto the speedometer so far that the end of the speedometer can actually seat inside the tool to the end of its thread. but it is not recommended to screw all the way till it is seated for you will want to leave about 1 full turn left to give you wiggle room in case the grease fitting nipple is pointed in the wrong direction. 4) The threads on the other end where the grease fitting screws into was cut with a flaired threading the last 3/4 of a turn so to also give more wiggle room in case the grease nipple is pointed in the wrong direction. I recommend putting lock tight on this thread. I included a procedure instructions so one can align the tool with the lock tight. Then to remove the tool and allowing the lock tight to cure before using. When I used my tool, It pumped easy at first to fill the void with grease then I felt the resistence. I'm not a real strong person but I gave it one good solid hard pump. I was squeezing so tight that my hand and arm shook before grease came out the fitting where the grease gun goes on.
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So I got the forks off and the springs removed. I cannot figure out the removal of the 10mm hex head bolt in the bottom of the forks. I can get it to turn, but not loosen. The manual talks about some special tool, but I don't see any mention in the instructions I am following. Help ??? How do I remove those bolts ????
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Stopped for speeding A rookie police officer pulled a biker over for speeding and had the following exchange: Officer: May I see your driver's license? Biker: I don't have one. I had it suspended when I got my 5th DUI. Officer: May I see the owner's card for this vehicle? Biker: It's not my bike. I stole it. Officer: The motorcycle is stolen? Biker: That's right. But come to think of it, I think I saw the owner's card in the tool bag when I was putting my gun in there. Officer: There's a gun in the tool bag? Biker: Yes sir. That's where I put it after I shot and killed the dude who owns this bike and stuffed his dope in the saddle bags. Officer: There's drugs in the saddle bags too? Biker: Yes, sir. Hearing this, the rookie immediately called his captain. The biker was quickly surrounded by police, and the captain approached the biker to handle the tense situation: Captain: Sir, can I see your license? Biker: Sure. Here it is. It was valid. Captain: Who's motorcycle is this? Biker: It's mine, officer. Here's the registration. Captain: Could you slowly open your tool bag so I can see if there's a gun in it? Biker: Yes, sir, but there's no gun in it. Sure enough, there was nothing in the tool bag. Captain: Would you mind opening your saddle bags? I was told you said there's drugs in them. Biker: No problem. The saddle bags were opened; no drugs. Captain: I don't understand it. The officer who stopped you said you told him you didn't have a license, stole this motorcycle, had a gun in the tool bag, and that there were drugs in the saddle bags. Biker: Yeah, I'll bet he told you I was speeding, too.
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Howdy Folks. Need to do some adjusting on a couple 83 bikes I just bought. Does anyone have a loaner kit available with shims and tool? I am willing to contribute. Thats what these winter days are for, tinkerin' with da tools.... Thanks much, Scott -
Bob Myers made a tool that seats the bushings and seals on the 2nd gen forks, It was decided to pass it around to the members as needed, with the last possessor paying the shipping. FLB was the first, and im the second. I just finished assembling the fork legs and in a few days ill be adding the fork oil. Once im sure its not leaking ill post the tools availability. So, if your planning on rebuilding/re-sealing your front forks on a 2nd gen, this tool is indispensable. It worked like a charm. Thanks again, Bob and Forrest.... Attached Thumbnails
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Its time to do some maintenance on the bike. I broke my leg. I have the valve shim kit, but lost my valve tool. I remember a member who sells the tool, but its not in the list of member classified listings. I'll also be looking to buy a clutch kit. Can anyone here lead me in the right direction? The pain killers are mudddling my brain. I may also need some plastic repair kit.
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I got the rear housing / gears from a VMax and swapped this out with mine on the 2008 RSTD. I don't have the rear wheel back on as yet as I wanted to take the time to check the drive pins before re-installing. My questions are; on the forum someone mentions two special tools required to change the drive housing. One, I assume, is to hold the coupling up inside of the fork tube to make it easier to get the drive shaft spline into it. The other is for some sort of bearing retainer? I didn't have either tool. One thing I did do was to start the driveshaft into the coupler, then push it into the housing aligning the spring, etc. Then I slid the entire assembly together and started the acorn nuts. Anything I may have missed on the rear housing end by doing this?
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Each diaphram cover has 4 screws. The upper right screw seen to take a star or allen wrench while the other 3 are Philips head. But I can't tell for the screw seems to have a center tip the stick out preventing the tool to slid into the head. Is there such a tool with a center hole?
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Ran across this tool for $105.00 plus shipping while checking out some tire info. Looks to be well made. Anyone have any experience with it? http://www.marcparnes.com/Universal_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm Andy
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Is there still a shim kit floating around? I have a 2001 RSV with 25K, it's time for the valves to be adjusted. Can anyone help me out? Is the 2nd gen tool in there too? Send me a PM. Thanks everyone.
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I have gotten my new plastics, tci (from Dingy), and getting ready to order a fork rebuild kit from buckeye and progressive springs. Now I just need to get home so I can start rebuilding Frankenstein! Also going to get a carb sync tool and check on my carbs, I do not think I am getting all of the power out of her. Scoty
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http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326924_200326924 As I needed some accessories for my Dremel for my fork polishing project I came across this at Northern Tool. Since I was already in possession of a NT 50 dollar gift card it only cost me 10 bucks!! The same stuff with the Dremel kit would cost well over 100 bucks! At 59 bucks its quite a steal. If your into any type of hobby stuff this tool is a great addition for the price.
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Amazing! I've owned this bike for two years, and just discovered where Yamaha hides the tool kit....
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I still have the original OEM tool kit in my 1990, but there are some empty pockets for sockets in the pouch. Can anyone inventory a COMPLETE, unadulterated First generation 1986-1993 tool kit and tell me what is supposed to be in there?
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Okay ... I cracked. Having used a home made manometer for some time, generally with a decent amount os success, I cracked and bought a Motion Pro Sync Tool. It wasn't my first choice, but it was available and reasonably priced. I wanted a Morgans Carbtune, but I didn't want the wait. Set up of the tool was a breeze with clear instructions, and calibrating it was equally easy. I went to this trouble because I have had some difficulty getting the bike to idle correctly after a fast run. On the driveway it is fine, but when it's very hot the revs do not want to fall below 3000rpm, 2500 after I tweaked the Idle Mixture a little. There are no vacuum leaks and the carbs are clean. Even with my manometer I was suspicious that the carbs were out of sync. It only takes one of the four to cause a high idle. So ... Tool calibrated, engine hot and tubes fitted to inlet tracts ... Whoah! One carb had vacuum so high it was almost sucking the fluid out of the top of the clear tube. A quick adjusment brought that into line. The right bank only needed a slight tweak and the two banks together weren't too bad, but got the tweak they needed. After a final adjustment of the idle speed, all seemed much smoother. I will run it later and see if the problem has gone, or at least improved, but I have to say that the whole process took less than 10 minutes once the motor was warm, and I would happily recommend the Motion Pro tool. It does seem to work decently well.
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Looking for a valve adjusting tool for my XVZ12, can anybody help!!
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I have been wanting to change the spark plugs on my VR. Discovered my 18 mm deep socket would not fit in the hole. Spent most of the day browsing through the local tool shops looking for a thin walled socket without success. At the end of it all went to the dealer to see what they had with interesting results. Found out the plug socket only came with the original tool kit. Yamaha wanted... wait for the drum roll... $539.00 ... Whoo-Hoo On the other hand, they did have a Honda plug wrench for sale as a stand alone tool. Went out to see if it would fit and while rummaging around for a screwdriver to remove the side grill found that I had the OEM plug wrench already, just didn't know it. The Honda plug wrench did fit. Perhaps unfortunately, in my excitement I forgot to get the price of the Honda tool. It likely was not very expensive as it was zinc plated and not chromed like my POSH Royale tool. Thought I would pass that along just in case anyone else really was stuck without a way to remove their plugs.
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Well that time is upon me. I have rolled over 52k and want to go ahead and get this beast of a maintenance item out of the way. Not to mention the valve cover gaskets are starting to look cracked and stuff (obviously, from the outside) whether that means anything or not, I don't know. I do know that I am starting to get some seepage out of the back right cover (into the spark plug hole) and mileage wise I am a tad overdue. So I have some questions. First of all I am wondering if there is any interest in a valve adjustment day sometime in the next couple of weeks? I can host BUT I still need to order that fancy pants "J" tool and a shim kit. I am pretty sure I have the rest of the required tools (Torque wrenches, sockets, hex and torx socket attachments, etc). I also have a 2 car garage that should provide ample working space for a few bikes. That being said, I have no problem taking a little ride either if someone with more know-how and possibly the tools would be in a more convenient location (ie. NOT Lubbock) and willing to help out. While I could pay the local dealer ~$400 to have it done, I am pretty sure that I (personally) won't be happy unless I SEE it myself. I know that there are some honest mechanics out there but... well... That is how I am. So, anyone interested in a valve check get together? Anyone have the tool & shim kit and willing to let me borrow/rent it? Anyone have the know how and willing to sacrifice a day or two to help me out? If I end up hosting, I can provide food, beverages (as expected, I am sure), ice cream and ????. I have been over Goose's write up and while I am no master mechanic, I am quite confident that I should be able to git-r-done... provided I can procure the proper tools. Thanks for your consideration. Happy riding!! -
Any one near Philly Pa with a valve adjust tool I can have for a day, or where is a good place to get one on the web? thanks
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I am working on the steering column of my 96 GMC full size P/U. There are a bunch of screws in the steering column that look like a Torx BIT, but are 5 point instead of 6 point. So I need a nut driver that has 5 internal points. This screw head is about 1/8" OD. I have been looking at tool places and can not find anything like this. I have found the Pentasockets but they are for a screw head with 5 flat sides, This is a star shape more like what a Torx bit looks like.
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anyone every heard of a tool called grabit? im working on pulling the radiator on my 84 yamaha venture got some things off but need to remove the chrome plastic covers and of course there are 2 verry rounded off screws there. i tried a bigger phillips screw driver and they moved about 3 turns when that damn screw driver slipped and rounded them off to where it looks like i have to use some kind of extractor. and it looks like the grabit tool just drills and burnish then flip the tool and remove the screw. of course i have to get a cordless drill as there is no outlets in the storage unit for a elcectric one. if any one else has any ideas on removing these screws let me know.
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Tools Explained DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh--!' SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. Hope you found this informative.
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Could someone tell me or show pics of the proper clutch basket removal tool for a 2008 rsv?
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Anyone got any ideas on this 17MM tool for fork cap removal on the 1st gens? http://www.restockit.com/sunex-1-2-drive-hex-impact-socket-17mm-(sun26499).html?source=CJproduct Price seems reasonable, and I wouldn't have to create a frankenstein tool outa parts. I am a mechanical guy who would use thing quite often for other projects too, so it wouldn't be job specific to my 1st gen. Looks worth the purchase to me, unless you guys have other suggestions. Thanks. Rusty -
TWO things I wondered about today...
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
ONE: did Yamaha make a tool to fit the stator cover screw plug or am I missing a tool from the original kit? You'd think they could have put it on the end of one of the big box end wrenches. Anyways, this week I finally carved a piece of steel to fit that stupid curved slotted groove. (pics 1, 2) TWO: what is that hole for on the bottom of the rear crankcase cover? Looks to me like Yamaha guessed wrong where the shifter shaft would come through. (pic 3) Just wondering...is all.
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