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Showing results for tags 'tires'.
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Looking for advice on a small cut on my Dunlop Elite II D491 front sidewall. New set of tires last year, only about 2500 miles on them. Just noticed small cut on the sidewall. Doesn't look very deep at all, almost like it was just shaved back...I can see a white color underneath....but doesn't appear to be cut into that. Trying to decide if I should replace it before a 2000 mile trip. It really doesn't seem bad at all, but then again if I'm laying across the highway somewhere I'm gonna be wondering why I didn't just spend the $200 to get it replaced! Any advice or experience with this kind of cut?
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I am looking to replace front and rear tires on my 84 Standard. Currently running Dunlop D404's. I think they handle fine, but I am wondering if anyone else has anything great to say about another brand. Looking for mileage and decent price. American motorcycle tire will deliver a front and rear D404 to my house for $134. -
I have Metzeler ME880 Marathon tires on the front and the rear of my 1984 VR. These tires are not very old and have alot of tread left on them. I have owned the bike for a year and know that the tires may be 3 years old based on info from the previous owner. Now to my question. I noticed on the rear tire about half way up the sidewall a wavy thin crack extending about 4 to 6 inches aong the tire. This pattern continues around the tire in the form of a black line for maybe 20 inches. I am do not know the construction of these tires. Do I need to be worried about this tire blowing out on me while riding? I would appreciate some advice as I do not want this tire to cause any problems while riding.
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I'm getting ready to get rid of my bridgstones. They moan and I don't think they handle all that great and I didn't get that good of mileage on them. Question is when should I replace brake pads. I've got close to 6000 miles on the bike and with the new tires I could get at least 6k or more. Any advice here? Thanks, Bob
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Demonstrate types of tire wear that indicates when to change your motorcycle tires. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3Yq7DMRwbw]YouTube - When to Change Your Motorcycle Tires[/ame]
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They say you cant fight City hall! The industry is moving toward Nitorgen filling of tires and Im gonna buy the machine for my Tire business. Even though for normal use I do think its kind of excessive there are a few benefits we can use here. Funny thing is a while ago I was against it but recently with new data Ive been kind of swayed in some cases. Nitrogen filling of tires will help us in one case. It expands and contracts far less than regular air so you tires will stay a more constant pressure on your bike. We know handling will vary by pressure this can help keep it more consistant. Nitrogen will also (If properly installed) contain less water then regular pump air so it will help reduce the corrosion of wheels on the inside. Also since its a larger molecule and also an inert gas your tires in most cases will hold their inflation better. Im not saying that you will not lose any air and you should still check it regularly but all these things can help us. If you get a leak or need to ad air on the road you can just mix it. Just when you get a chance purge the air and refill. To do a passenger tire right now the cost is in the area of $10 a tire Ill keep all you posted on how this goes.
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Tires..beat it to death
Ride2much posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
The new Elite 3 vs the 491 Elite 11 what is the big difference? I expected a higher price for the 3's but here is what I found? Both from the same company ,same add??? Dunlop Motorcycle Tires ELITE 3 MU90B16 REAR #4079-95 ELITE 3 Dunlop Motorcycle Tire. BIAS TOURING TIRES Price 113.00 Dunlop Motorcycle Tires K491 MU90B16 RWL ELITE II REAR K491 Dunlop Motorcycle Tire. Price 130.52 -
I just recieved my Avons this week & picked up my tire changer/mc adapter. How about some suggestions or better yet, pictures of how you balance the tires once you get them mounted? I've had a couple of suggestions but some pics would help. Thanks, Curt
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New tires built after 2000 will have a time stamp in the serial number. Example 1506 means the tire was mfg the 15th week of 2006. Good info to know when buying off the shelf tires.
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Who owns who? Does it really matter? :confused24: http://www.tirebusiness.com/subscriber/databook/whoownswhom2007.pdf
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I need to replace the tires on my 83 Venture Royale any suggestions on make and models .
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Thought I'd start a helpful thread on where to buy tires. It seems that prices are all over the board and if we can convince some retailer that there are 2000 members here that will buy on price we may have some results. Personally I don't mind if a retailer makes some money on what they sell, that way I know they will be there for service when I need it and will also be there when I need more stuff, but sometimes I see a ripoff happening and then it's time to put some competition into the mix. So when you post here, let us know where you bought your tires and for how much, including shipping or what ever else you paid. Bought 2 Avon Vemons A41 and A45 for $500.00 mounted and balanced, Brantford ON 2006
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Kicking around the Harley dealer today, saw several bikes with run flat tires. I guess the police use them but are available for retail puchase. First time I have seen these on a bike. There must be some drawbacks or most bikes would have them. Any experience anyone?
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Anyone have any experiance with this?
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Anyone out there knows how to clean whitewall tires? I am having trouble finding stuff that doesn't require a lot of hard work and will properly restore the whitewall on my bike's tires. No matter what I use there is still some yellow marks, along the outside perimeter, that I can't get rid of. Thanks for your help. Hermann
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what method do you use to remove and remount your own tires. I've seen 1 article on Harbor Freight tire changer. Is this any good? What do you use to balance them or take them to a shop? Thanks -
Here's a link to a really good article on what the numbers and letters mean, for motorcycle tires. http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/tires.asp
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Motorcycle Tire Information and Conversion Charts Basic Tire Information http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc1.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc2.gif Break-In Period In order for your new tire to provide optimum performance, tires should be ridden very cautiously for the first 100 miles in order for the tread surface to be "Scuffed-In" and work properly. Directly after new tires are mounted, sudden acceleration, maximum braking and hard cornering must be avoided. This will allow the rider to adjust to the "feel" and handling characteristics of the new tire and for the new tire to be "scuffed-in" correctly in order to achieve optimum grip level. Conversion Charts http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc3.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc4.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc5.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc6.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc7.gif Tires with 2.00, 2.25, & 2.50 nominal section widths are rated for 75 mph. Remember, tire safety requires proper care and use. WARNING: Only properly trained personnel should mount tires.
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Lucky and Stupid. When you think about it, that is about the best you can hope for when stupid is part of the equation. So here's my story. I use my tires too long. Not intentionally, and I'm not proud of it, and for sure I'm not recommending it, but facts is facts. I can explain how it happened, but that doesn't make it right. Closer attention would have prevented it. The problem is that without a center stand, it is just such a pain to carefully rotate the tires and inspect them all the way around. When my tires get close to the wear bars, I THOUGHT I kept a pretty close eye on them. As some of you might know from my past posts, I ride a lot. I'm on the bike virtually every day, and I can often put a thousand or two miles on the bike between washing (when I really get down and inspect everything). So keeping a pretty close eye on the tires usually means I regularly take a look a the open part of the tread below the rear fender or on the front of the bike. I just figured that by looking at that section of the tire every few times I walk up to the bike, random chance would mean that I was seeing all of the tire within a reasonable time frame. Facts prove me wrong. Here's the condition I thought my Avon Venom rear tire was in at 14,000 miles: [ATTACH]802[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]803[/ATTACH] In these pictures you can clearly see the edge of the wear bar in the middle of the long tread groove that stretches all the way across the tire. The Venoms only have about three of these long grooves, so there are not a lot of places to check for the wear bars. Yes, I know that you are supposed to dump the tires when the wear bars first hit the surface, not when they are gone. My weakness is that I have always wanted to push them to the bottom of the wear bar. Gonna have to change that. When I had my bike in about a month ago for the shock to be replaced, the shop told me that the belts were showing on my rear tire! This was a shock to me, but sure enough, this is what I found when I put the bike on a stand and rotated the tire all the way around: [ATTACH]804[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]805[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]806[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]807[/ATTACH] So it seems that the majority of times I looked at the rear tire I either wasn't really paying attention, or I was seeing the section that still showed the wear bar! How did this happen? The answer is probably interesting, but incidental to my failure to properly inspect my tire often enough. That tire was mounted for me by my dealer as a favor to me after they had to re-do some work. It now seems to me that they mounted the tire and just left the old weights on the wheel from the previous tire. The section that was mostly worn through to the belts was about where the weights were, so the grossly out-of-balance section was being thrown harder against the road on each revolution, and the part that still showed the wear bar was the lightest part of the tire. So, lesson learned, right? Not hardly. I didn't want to let my bike sit while I waited for a new tire, so I mounted an old one that I had around for emergency use. This tire was just to the bottom of the wear bars and very flat, but I figured it was OK for a couple of weeks. And I watched it about the same as I had been watching the last tire! (Told you I was stupid - lesson not learned at all.) Well, at about the second weekend, when I was planing to change the tire, a short notice PGR mission came up, so I thought a while longer would be OK. This mission was over 100 miles away, and the return run was at high speed. All total, I guess I put close to 2,000 miles on this old tire. I'll cut to the chase here. When I pulled into my garage two days ago, I saw this showing on the back tire: [ATTACH]808[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]809[/ATTACH] Yikes! About half the tire has the center section worn through the tread layer with belts showing in a big section, and the other half just looks worn out. Bottom line is that I was very lucky that my negligence and assumptions about the tire condition could have turned very ugly but did not. I'd certainly like to think that I'll be doing closer full-tire inspections in the future, but only time will tell. I'm a bit chagrined that I wasn't watching that second tire closer after what I had just seen on the one before. I thought I'd subject myself to embarrassment and ridicule here because I survived this bit of stupidity only through sheer luck. Next time, if there is a next time for either me or someone else, that luck may not hold. If even one person looks at their tires a little closer, then this has been worth while. One last thought for you. As these pictures make completely evident, these modern tires do NOT have any rubber to spare under the last part of the tread. I have sectioned worn tires in years past, and they always had a thick layer of rubber left over the belts, but neither of these tires have that margin of safety. Don't push them too far! Ride safe, Goose
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Had a flat when I left work yesterday. Found a small whole, muscled it to Wal Mart next door to work and filled it up. Road home got up this morning and its still good. Tire was kind of Ify anyway, so I'm going to wait on the new one before I ride again. But for what its worth, if you have Ride-On in the tires and a way to inflate them when you get a puncture you can "RIDE-ON".
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