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VR Assistance

  1. How do you remove the TCI from an '86 VR. I think I have a moisture problem as it is stumbling and running like it's missing part of the time. I went through some pretty heavy thunderstorms this summer and drown the bike pretty good 3-4 times. Can't think of what else it would be. Got new plugs and the warmer the engine gets the better it runs. Do you have to remove all the front end plastic? I've removed the battery and box and it looks like the whole front of the bike has to come off to get at the TCI screws/bolts as they are somewhere underneath the battery box crossmember. Hope I'm missing something and there is an easier way...
  2. Been struggling with a no spark condition the last couple of weeks. Bought a TCI off of eBay, didn't fix the problem. I initially had spark on all but cylinder #4, then while working in the area, wrestling the battery around, and swapping the TCIs, nothing. Pulled the ignition and pickup plugs, all resistance reads as it should (114-119 on pickup coils, 3.2-3.5 on ignition coils). The TCI is getting power, bike is in neutral and the kickstand is up. As I was getting ready to unleash some words no child should hear, I decided to check the boost sensor. When getting no reading between the + and - terminals on the TCI, I tracked back to the sensor itself. During my mangling process, the cover of the sensor was broken - enough that there is a hole in the top. I know the boost sensor helps adjust timing, if the circuit is damaged can it shut off spark entirely? If so, any way to fool the TCI into running - even poorly - long enough to shake out any other gremlins?
  3. My tach has always been slow on my 86. This was nothing to be very concerned about but it was always on my mind that it could be this way because of something electrical about ready to fail. What with the tach receiving its signal from number 2 coil which in turn runs it through the TCI box then on to the tach. I have always read anything on this site that was tach related in hope of pinpointing what it was that made mine run slow. I have been told that my TCI could be faulty, my #2 coil faulty, bad ground to maybe just a boggy tach. Well the search is over! After running the diagnostic check of the wiring to the TCI. NOT IT. Check of coils. NOT IT. Adding a second ground wire. NOT IT. The problem was the tach itself. I removed it from the housing to look it over and clean it using some electrical contact cleaner. My brother-in-law was here when I took it out and he said that it just looked as if it needed lubed up to free it up. He grabbed the can of Sili-kroil and began to ever so lightly lube the needle mechanism while moving it toward redline and letting it go. After five minutes of this. THAT WAS IT! It is now free as the RPM it reads. Upon further inspection it seems that on the backside of the instrument cluster box that houses the tach and speedometer, on the tachs side of it. There is a unplugged hole that looks as if it should hold a light but there is no provision for one there. Being a 86 this hole has let moisture and the elements into the tachs cluster for 22 years a very unnecessary and troublesome hole that is now plugged. More than enough time to gum up my tach. So if your tach is boggy don't rule out that all it might need is a good clean & lube.
  4. The #4 cylinder on my 83VR isn't firing. I verified the ignition coil works by swapping the plug-in with the #3 coil. Went to the back of the bike and swapped wires on the pickup coils to confirm that wasn't the problem. The #3 ignition coil when hooked to the #4 pickup sparked without problem. Before having this much fun, I checked resistance throughout the ignition system. Here is what I found: Pickup Coil #1 119.7 Ohms #2 122.2 Ohms #3 118.7 Ohms #4 115.9 Ohms Ignition Coils: #1 3.5 Ohms #2 3.6 Ohms #3 3.4 Ohms #4 3.5 Ohms Resistance across the TCI +12V to ground is 392 Ohms. I pulled the back cover off to check for any major signs of corrosion or burning. Nothing nasty, and the solders look solid around the heatsinks and plug connectors. I'm wondering if the transistor that fires #4 might be shot? Any other ideas, and ways to test? Anyone know which transistor fires #4? I've attached a photo that laxman used in a post last year about his TCI.
  5. I have a bike that is missing on the two back coils. I had Don test out the TCI and he felt it had a problem and he wasn't able to get the part for it. I got another TCI box from a junk yard in TX and installed it and I still have the same problem. I went to check out the pick up coils and the ingnition coils, but how to do I know which is PRIMARY and which is SECONDARY. The OHM's are different depending on it they are secondary or primary. Can anyone help me? I am getting very frustrated here!!!! This is a 1987 Yamaha Venture Royale
  6. I took off all the fairing and removed the TCI box. Put the TCI box back in about 3 weeks later and now I have these wires that I can't remember where they go. They are on the left side of the bike. Help!!!!! Thanks Coach Ron
  7. OK guys, it has been a while, I had to step away from the "Brown Bomber" for a bit, it seems work and health issues got in the way. So, I am now recovering from a minor surgery and have a couple of weeks to do some minor (light) work on the bike and need as always your trusted advise. The bike is having the same symtobs as when I left off. It will run, but only with the choke on, It likes to ideal up by itself, and then after a bit just cuts off. Here is what I have done so far Rebuilt carbs to include new dia's and choke dia's as well, and yes the small "o" ring is in place. New fuel lines, filter, and cleaned tank New Plug wires, boots, and plugs Check and shimmed valves #1,#3,#4 (140+/-) all good PSI, #2 a little weak (90+/-) (these numbers are from memory, but they should be close, main point is #2 is weaker then the other 3) Sync carbs by ear to the best of my ability Removed YCIS and Plugged all ports (except #2 for Vacumn thingy a giggy) - techo term I figured I would pull the TCI open and check it as I have read others had done and bake it. The bike has been in FL for most of it's life and I am sure the humidly has surely gotten into it by now. Is there a thread showing the location, removal and tips for checking/cleaning/repairing/drying this thing out? Any suggestions and tips on any of my symptoms would be greatly appreciated:missingtooth:
  8. I am new to this site but find it a wealth of information. Thanks to all Here's my poblem I recently got a 1983 Venture I posted the Vin# here last week and I think it is the first off the line. but thats not my problem. when I got it it had set for about 3 years. It runs OK and looks good but after my inspection I decovered no brakes on the rear. so I ordered a rear master cylinder and last night rebuilt the master. all went well lines bleed out and now have good brakes. I thought while it is in the shop I should change the oil and filters at the same time. I drove the bike in the shop it started and run good. after I changed the oil it would not fire up. It turns over good, it's getting gas I though that it may be a stuck switch so I traced all the wires to the switches sidestand, clutch, neutral switch even the emergency stop switch all check out and still no fire I removed all the fairing and checked the wiring to the TCI module all looked ok to but just no spark. as a way to test the TCI module i removed the Kill wire black/white stripe wire check power in and ground all ok . with the kill line off the bike should fire up and run. No luck on fire. It looks like the TCI module just went bad but before I spend $900 on a new TCI mod I would like to here for some of you. Is their a way to test the TCI mod to be sure if it is ok or not. Is their something that I am missing that will keep it from starting As I said it turns over ok just no spark. but i drove it in the shop any comments you have would be welcomed I need to order the TCI module before Tuesday to have it by the end of the week. Thanks for the input
  9. help , i lost my tach and a cyl. , i cleaned the tci plugs and the plug down by the seat , nope not fixed installed another tci , nope , same thing . anybody know why the tach is not working ? when i 1st start it up the tach moves a little bit but a soon as it is running no tach , help thom
  10. Need a black seat for my 83. I sent mine to be repaired, and the guy left town (i heard to get awaw from child support or something). My seat is not at his house either. None on ebay. I have the following parts available..... Rear Master Cyl. Coil packs and wires CDI / TCI exciter box clutch cover Soon will have a 1200 engine (with bad second gear) but runs good. junioratvsales@gmail.com thanks.
  11. Ok this is my first post... I got a 83 XVZ12 for free this summer and it had sat for 5 years.... real nice shape and kept inside, changed the plugs and removed the carbs and cleaned them bled the brakes and clutch drained the gas and fired her up... it has run all summer with no engine problems other than running really warm this is my first bike and i love it BUT a few weeks ago i cut the windshield down and it was running fine other than the previous day it seemed like it was running out of gas (which it was really low) or the filter was pluged (was leaking :aftermarket clear filter) so i cleaned the filter and stopped the leak got gas and then took it out for a test run and it sputtered until the rpms got a little higher then she ran ok about 5 miles into the ride the bike lost power and started running lousy rode back and checked it all over (with an awesome harly mechanic) and found a cylinder went dead.. gas but no spark the spark to the LR cylinder is there when it starts but immediatly fades to nothing or comes in at higher rpms when riding is this the TCI or a coil going? i saw other posts mentioning the TCI what is that and where is that located? i gathered that controls the coils firing... i dont have a manual yet so any help would be really appreciated... the bike had gotten uncovered a couple of times when the wind blew off the cover during a heavy rain... would baking it in the oven help? any ideas?
  12. I really must apologize for the 1st pinout drawing that I provided as I was checking out the pinouts today and when I compared them to an opened TCI I found that some of the pins didn't match the colorized electrical schematic I have. Some of the coil numbers were incorrect so I have taken them off the pinout drawing until I have a chance to trace them on my bike which is a 1985 1st Gen 1200. You can all shoot me later. Regards DonB PS if anyone wants a larger version then email me at donb@mnsi.net
  13. Hello all Well I've been working on making a bench tester for the 1st Gen TCI's and I could use the cables/plugs that go to the TCI. Has anyone parted out a 1st Gen bike where I could get these cables? It would simplify hooking up a TCI if I had these. DonB I can be reached at donb@mnsi.net TIA
  14. Is there any difference with the TCI for a 1200 and a 1300?? I just pickied up the guts from a 1300 TCI on ebay for $14 including shipping. It's biled as an '86 up but will it work on an '85??
  15. Currently working on the TCI, wondering what the transistor specs are since the markings are gone. Appreciate any help.
  16. Hi Everyone, First I'd like to say thanks for such a great site. I've really learned a lot from many of the posts. I'm particularly impressed with the helpfulness of eveyone. Anyone care to help some more? I picked up an 83 Venture XVZ1200 from a friend and it wasn't running. The current status is I'm only getting spark from 2 cylinders (1 & 3). Thanks to this site I've tried quite a few things so I thought if anyone could point me another direction I'd be very grateful. Here's the list of what I've tried: I changed out the plugs Primary coil is within limits Spark coils are within limits I refitted the plug wires (cut about 1/4 inch at the coil and plugs and re-fitted) Pressure sensor tested within limits Cleaned all electrical connections with spray Pulled the TCI and opened the cover, it smelled like fuel, I dried it for about 20 minutes on LOW with a hair dryerNot sure what else to do although I still suspect the TCI. Any help would be appreciated. Can't wait to go for a first ride! Thanks in advance.
  17. Many times we over look the simple and expect the worst TCI failure. Most ignition failure causes are connection issues and not the TCI. Here are the steps I use to trouble shoot an ignition problem on a first gen with suspected TCI problem. 1. Remove battery and battery compartment. 2. Unplug both connectors from TCI box 3. With a digital ohm meter connect the black neg lead to the black battery cable. Do not connect to frame or chassis for a ground. Now measure with the red lead of ohm meter to a frame bolt or engine bolt. You should have O ohms or slightly higher.The ground connection to chassis is good.Now we are ready to measure TCI connectors. 4. On the smaller 6 pin connector measure the black wire. It should read 0 ohms or slightly higher. This is the gnd output from TCI to the pickup coil center taps. It may be easier to insert red test probe into the back of the connector plug to take these readings. NOTE: The ground comes from the TCI. You won't have a ground connection on the stator side with connector unplugged. The main ground to the TCI comes in on the output connector from the frame and loops through the TCI to the pickup coil input connector then through the pickup coil connector along lower frame next to stator. 5. Now measure the Orange,Gray,White/Red,and White/Green wires one at a time. These are pickup coil inputs to TCI.They should read 115 -125 ohms normal. If you don't have this or loss of one or more the most common cause is connector failure. (see white connector plug along frame above stator and clean contacts). 6. The Black/White wire is the Emergency Inhibit line. If it measure 0 ohms or has a low resistance the bike willl not start. Normally this measurement is done with the battery hooked up via jumper cables and ign switch on. Various sources through energized relays can inhibit this line. Such as emergency killl switch,side stand relay,tilt switch.clutch switch,etc. 7. With battery unhooked lets move to the 8 pin plug. measure the black wire should be 0 ohms system ground. 8. With the battery unhooked move the black lead of ohm meter to the Red + battery cable and turn on ignition switch. We are now going to measure the resistance back through each Primary Ignition coil to the battery positive lead. 9. Measure the Orange,Gray,Yellow, and White wires. Each should read 2.5 to 3 ohms ref the red battery lead.These are the induction output wires that fire the energized ignition coils, The Red/White wire is 13.8 volt supply line and should read 0 ohms.Thats it for the dc continuity test of connections to TCI. The Black/Yellow,Black/Red wires are from the pressure switch and should only be measured with engine running. The pressure sensor converts pressure into voltage which varys the timing advance with changes of pressure caused by rpm increase. These timing changes can be viewed with a Oscilloscope measuring the pickup coil input pulse and the corresponding output pulse for each cylinder.This is not something you need to worry about now. If all is well to this point and the obvious has been checked including Spark plugs and plug wires it's time to check the TCI. Before removing it (a patience trying task) I would plug in a spare unit. Every first gen owner should have a working spare or know where you can borrow one. If the TCI is defective remove from bike, open the case by removing the 4 phillips screws exposing the soldered side of circuit board. place in oven at 100 degrees for 30 minutes to remove any moisture in module. You can remove any corrosion from solder side of circuit board with gentle strokes of an old tooth brush and an electronic contact cleaning spray. If you have soldering ability and a low wattage iron resolder all connections below the heatsink nuts on the circuit board. These are the contacts leading to the out side connectors. The heatsink nuts hold the switching transistors that fire the ignition coils. Resolder the 3 terminals of each transistor. with a magnifying glass carefully inspect the remaining solder connections on the board. Anything that has a dull color or hairline crack should be resoldered. You have now fixed probably 95 % of TCI failures. Actual componet failures are rare and can only be accomplished by electronic techinicians with specialized desoldering stations and a schematic of the TCI. Not to mention parts availability for a 20 year old technology. Watch used TCI's can be bought on Ebay ocassionally for $50 bucks. 10. The best way to check a TCI is on the bike but I have plans for bench testing later.
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