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VR Assistance

  1. I have a 08 RSV and getting ready to install a Biker's Choice tach. It says the green wire goes to the negative terminal on the coil. Is there a coil diagram available to show me where the negative terminal is? Thanks
  2. Has anyone tried this tach? Electronic Specialties 328 EZ Tach Plus [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z32OHW]Amazon.com: Electronic Specialties 328 EZ Tach Plus: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31m4HzTo%2BuL.@@AMEPARAM@@31m4HzTo%2BuL[/ame] Or any suggestions for hand held tachs.
  3. Would this be OK to sync the carbs? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300529194899&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT Where can I get the Yamaha engine tach, part #YU-08036-A, 90890-03113 Thanks, Melvin
  4. I guess this can really go for any 3" tach. Can you post pictures of how you have it mounted to your scoots? Anybody have a Baron's mini-tach for sale?
  5. Oy. A brief moment of carelessness and I snapped the end of my tach needle off. I already had it removed from the tach shaft (the hardest part), too. Does anybody have a nonfunctional tach (or speedometer, for that matter) they don't mind either sharing the whole thing with me or sending me the needle from? It's kind of a pain to pop off but it will come with a little coaxing. I will later reveal my project if I can score a new needle.
  6. I've been putting off lubing "Uglys" tach. It has bad case of slows but I've got to get in there anyway and thought I would lube Tach While I was doing other things. What is best thing to lube it with??
  7. Hi everyone! So I figured that I wanted to make my first post a good one, so here it is. Pics at the bottom. I had been looking into my options for a tachometer for quite sometime and was rather unimpressed with the steep price tag and the style of the available motorcycle tach's. So I did some internet hunting and found a company based out of Michigan that makes Retro style tachometers for classic and muscle cars. You can find them at Classic Instruments. I thought to myself, oh now wouldn't that look good on my RSTD. Before I knew it, I was whipping out my cards to make a purchase online. With a lots of humming and hawing about which model to get, I ended up getting the All American Nickel 3-3/8" Tachometer and the chrome cup insert. Total $198US. Took about 4 days to ship to Canada! Not bad eh~! http://www.classicinstruments.com/images/products/AN80SHC.JPGhttp://www.classicinstruments.com/images/Tach%20Cup.jpg Once I received my new purchase I went to work right away. However, I had to really think about where to mount it, how to mount it and how to get it to work. So in case if anyone is wondering, read on. First off, where to mount it. I have a Uniq Cycle Classic speakers system (long story, I have the system but I currently waiting for a replacement amp because the first one was faulty. Not happy with those guys.) that will occupy the left and right portions of the handle bar, so that was a no-go. I decided to mount it dead-center about the speedometer display because that would give me enough space to not interfere with the windshield. Second, how to mount it. I was stumped for a while on this one. One of the problems was the chrome cup insert was far too long. If I were to mount it, the tach would stick way out over the front of the speedometer unit. I noticed that the tach itself was quite a bit shorter than the cup, so I decided to cut the cup insert down. I cut about an inch or so from the opening. I also cut down the screws (the ones that you bolt on the wiring to) on the back of the tachometer to shorten it down some more. After the trimming work I had reduced the length on the tach enough for the front of the gauge to sit flush with the speedometer unit. I spent a good amount of time trying to figure out a way of fixing the tach to the top of my speedometer without having to drill holes or welding to the pretty speedo casing. So I took an old stainless steel stirring ladle from the kitchen and went to work bending it into shape. I apologize for not taking step-by-step photos of the process, I was just... lets say... in the groove. I ended up bending the ladle with a slight arc, following the curve of the speedo casing, and a sharp 'S' shaped bend at the end. I drilled a hole in at the end of the 'S' shape and easily mounted it to the one screw that holds the speedo casing in the front (if you stand right in front of your bike and look at the speedo casing, you will see the bolt). The ladle works perfectly because it has a slight curve to it already and it follows the curve on the speedo casing. I then took the cup insert and the ladle and welded them together. I would assume that you could use some kind of adhesive or jb-weld. But since I have a MIG that I am always trying to find uses to justify its purchase, it was quick work . It was a simple one bolt job from there to permanently but non-destructively fix the tach to my bike. Third, the wiring. Not fun trying to figure this one out on your own. I will just write down what was the winning combination. Then tachometer has a 4 position selection screw on the back for calibrating. 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, 8 cylinder, 12PALT. Sorry V-Twin friends, this mod is only for us!. I basically ran a wire from the 'signal' terminal on the back of the tach to the ignition wiring. It runs with many of the wires that are located above the ignition coils. The one you want is the only wiring harness that is made up of just two wires, white and black. I hooked up the signal wire to the white wire, set the tach calibration to 12PALT and SUCCESS! For me, the 12PALT setting works. It does act a little funny at about 4000 rpm while accelerating, where the needle with suddenly retreat slightly and the advance forward. Now I know there are other ways to set up the tachometer. Classic instruments sells a multiple ignition coil adapter gadget, or there is this one that you can build yourself. I'm going to live with my setup because its totally livable in my books. I also wanted to have a nice clean look for the tachometer wiring, and didn't want any ugly wiring exposed. I tried to look for some nice 'chrome' plastic wire covering but couldn't find any. So I ended up going to the plumbing section at the local Canadian Tire and buying a 20" braided steel flexible hose. I cut off each of the screw ends and slipped the wiring through it (I bought a pack of trailer automotive wire while I was at crappy tire for the tach wiring). I slipped one end of the steel hose through the rubber grommet that is supplied with the tachometer and the other end of steel hose around the speedo unit and into the steering cover. From there you just wire up the tach + and - terminals to the auxiliary wiring harness that is located under the seat. I also jumped a wire from the + terminal to the 'light' terminal on the tach, which keeps the tach light on all the time. I will try to take some night-time pictures. From there I just bought a small tube of silicone caulking/adhesive and put it around the rubber grommet, braided steel hose, tachometer and cup, and between the bottom of the cup insert and the speedometer casing. The last one is important, it prevents the tach cup assembly from scratching the speedo casing, and it eliminates and noise from vibration. The tachometer unit does not interfere with the windshield in any way so it can be used with or without it. One thing that I did notice that when I went for a ride on a hot day, I got a bit of condensation on the inside of the gauge glass. I remedied that by drilling two holes on either side of the gauge just behind the glass. This should prevent the build up of condensation. It also allows you to use a can of compressed air to clean any condensation that may build up (and it works really well too!). All in all it was a successful modification. I am really happy with my cool retro tach, its easy to read (due to its large size) easy to see placement, and its lower price point. http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8552.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8554.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8553.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8545.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8547.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8564.jpg?t=1276000546
  8. I've notice something over the last few days. The tach on my '84 don't seem to enjoy the cold mornings at all. I've been dealing with temps in the teens and 20's most mornings lately and when I fire the bike up the tach just don't want to get with the program. Don't want to move at all or if it does it's sluggish. Later in the day as it warms up into the high 20's or better it's back to normal. I've had this bike for three years now but this is the first time I've ridden it daily into the winter months so I've never noticed if it was problem before in the cold. Anybody else have this as an issue? Mike
  9. Any one tried taking apart the Baron's tach to see if it will fit as a gauge for Ponch's gauge set? I unscrewed the main cap and the face of the tach looks to be just the right size. I can see using a small plexiglass square infront of the tach face for protection. Can use weather sealant to keep the plexiglass attached to Ponch's plate.
  10. I have a tach that is for a 4,6 or 8 cylinder hookup. Where should I attach the lead wire (Grean for signal) from the tach? The rest of them are self explanatory its just the lead wire I am somewhat confused about. TIA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  11. I have some free time this weekend and want to take the tape deck out but leave the AUX jack for my mp3 player. I have looked all over and cant find the specific thread for tape deck removal. Can someone point me in the right direction please. Also I want to install a tach. I am looking at this one here http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Sunpro-Super-Tach-II-2-5-8%22---Black-Face-&-Chrome-Bezel-Actron_16990020-P_N3342_P|GRP2032____ will that one work and how difficult is the install ( I am by no means a mechanic) LOL
  12. I want to hook up a dwell-tach meter that I have from the old days when you could work on a car to my 2nd gen to set the idle speed. There's two wires on it and I think one went to ground and the other to the coil. Anyone know where to hook up to get a reading for tach?
  13. I purchased this tach a year ago without any problems to date. Yesterday while leaving Salisbury NC and heady about eighty miles to my house it quit near Gastonia NC. When I got home I shut of the bike and turned the key back on and the tack did not cycle like it should but the needle droped lower than 0. Today I put the key in and it went up to 8,000 and back to 0 like it should, so I started it and went for a little test run. After two miles it went back to 0. I stopped and fueled up and it is working fine again and has not acted up. I originally thoght something is loose but before I tear into it I was hoping someone else has some input. The tach may be bad also.
  14. Anyone have one laying around they aren't using and might like to sell cheap? I have a really old Baron's tach mounted to the brake reseviour appx. 9-10 yrs old (goes up to 12k rpm which they no longer sell). I have talked to V7Goose and Bummer (thanks guys for your help and suggestions) and seems it has kicked the bucket. I really can't afford a new Baron's tach and am planning on doing one of Ponch's kit in the future, but in the meantime I would like to replace the one I have since it doesn't work properly anymore w/ another one.
  15. 1983 VR, 86,000 km Here's whats happening: A few rides ago, I noticed my temp guage dropping to bottom every few minutes...like a loose wire or something. Today, I noticed my voltmeter reading 9-10, previoulsy it was always at about 13 After a fairly long ride, there wasn't enough power to start...like battery was dead. On the way home it was missing occasionally...like starved for fuel or spark. At one point, I was sitting at a light and put on my turn signal, and the tach was pulsing with the flasher! It was bouncing from 1100 to 3000 when at at idle (tach reading only...not revs) So does this sound like TCI is on its way out...or could low battery from poor stator output do all that?:mo money:
  16. At the Asheville East KOA road today half way back to KOA tach drops to 0. Roll of throttle tach shows RPM's again, roll on throttle about 2000 drops to 0. Coasting down hill shows RPM's 3000 roll on throttle hard RPM's come back. Cleaned the connection on left side any thoughts what could be hope not the TCI, starts fine idles good. Your help as always appreciated.
  17. I installed a new tach to the bike today and it works. Simple and easy installation. VERY simple.. Bike idles at 1,000 rpm and it's fun to watch it wind up into the 6,000 range when dropping the hammer.. I couldn't see where the rev limiter was kicking in as I was too busy watching the road BTW, where DOES the rev limiter kick in and what's red line on this engine? Being old air force, I'd be putting VnE and VnR markers on the gauge hehe.. All I need now is to make a bracket that brings it up and twists forward to align it properly, or I might just leave it as is since I would be using it for reference only anyway..
  18. Got 83VR non running, lot of work later runs great but tach reads low, and slow to respond to throttle changes. Dash was FULL of ants, disassembled, and flushed ants out with water, then dried with aircompressor. Any way to verify tach signal at rear of dash correct? Volts?, Ohms? Think this signal is pulsing ground/vs 12v behind coil#2 @2xRPM?, May put o-scope on just to see what it reads. Haven't used my scope in long time-hope it still works. Suspect tach gears/springs may have light corrosion needs lube (pull dash again:(), but would like to verify everything else first.
  19. I have just purchased a new KOSO GP Style Tachometer with Water Temperature, BA551B23, (first item on page 12 here): http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/ Paid $150, delivered. The idea was to reduce the number of gauges I need by one to fit them all under the dash, like this: [ATTACH]46369[/ATTACH] So far, my report is decidedly mixed. First, the gauge is very impressive in the details of construction and parts supplied. But that is dampened by the absolute WORST Chinenglish - no, let me rephrase that - the documentation that comes with this thing is not NEAR good enough to be even derisively called Chinenglish - let's say Chinengiliberish! Not only is the wording so bad that much of it is totally unintelligible, but a few very key points are absolutely WRONG! The wiring harness is very impressive, with each section connected by plugs. The harness for the water temp sensor is just barely long enough for our bike, but I guess that is better than being too short! The tach input can be picked up by EITHER connecting to a coil or wrapping a wire around a spark plug lead. Compared to the minimal length of the temp sensor wires, the wires for connecting to a coil are plenty long enough to connect to your buddy's machine as he rides next to you on the highway. The gauge mounting hardware is all rubber mounted, and while the bar clamp is specifically sized to use on a normal 7/8" bar, it will work on our 1" bars with a bit of effort. The gauge itself is a bit larger than the 1 7/8" mini Drag Specialties tach which I prefer, but if you get it positioned just right it does fit under the dash at full lock, but just barely! Partially because this gauge is completely electronic, the wire connections are just slightly different than usual - one wire connects to battery hot, and another wire connects to ignition 12V. There is no separate wire for dash lights, so they are on all the time. While this probably makes no difference to most folks, it irks me a bit since I have the other gauges wired separately to a switch specifically for dash lights. Oh well . . . I can learn to live with that. The tach is truly a universal tach, as there are settings to select for both two stroke and four stroke engines, from one cylinder all the way up to 12 cylinders! But you do need quite a bit of imagination to understand what the instructions are trying to tell you about how to set those selections. Likewise, the temperature gauge can be set to display either Celsius or Fahrenheit. Unfortunately, the biggest issue is that the gauge did not work for more than 5 minutes! Everything seemed fine when I first hooked it up and set the proper formats, but the next time I turned the key on, the LCD display (temperature and configuration settings) was completely blank. The tach still seems to work OK, and the lights are on, but I can't get anything from the mode buttons or any display at all on the LCD screen. So now I am waiting to see how much trouble it will be to get this thing replaced. I'll let y'all know how that comes out. Goose
  20. 83 VR After all engine and clutch trouble, took on short test ride today. First time on anything so big. Sure can feel the horses:big-grin-emoticon: Still a little engine tuning to do, running pretty good, minor backfire in #3 (I know-seafoam)(recheck sync) Tach indicates ~1400, digital tach indicated 940 (if set correctly??), sounds like about 900, any slower would not idle. Is tach adustable? Biggest problem: Forks bottom out on little bumps. Came back checked air=zero, nada,zip. Pumped in about 2psi at a time and checked. At about 15psi forks shot up-spraying oil out of right fork seal. Pumped up to 18psi. 30 minutes later pressure = zero again. Forks still up, but pressed on frame and they fell back down. I know nothing about MC forks, never messed with them. Help! Suspect I am looking at complete fork rebuild. Where do I start. Thanks for all the help so far, Dingy, Rocket, Squeeze, MiCarl and many others Brian
  21. Can someone please direct me to the post that describes how to turn off the digital tach, I can't seem to find it.
  22. Hi guys.. so here I am with the little digital tach that you wrap one wire around your spark plug wire, press S1 to set how it reads either single fire, double fire or what ever else it does.. It has the S2 and S1 button on it.. I'm getting set to Synch my carbs and hooked up the little tach device and now *I* have that bovine look of incomprehension on my face as to what I'm reading.. At idle, I'm either reading 550 RPM or 2300 RPM in either S1 or the S2 reading.. HUH? I thought the idle rpm was around 900 rpm on this thing.. but when I jog the throttle up to 1000 rpm it sounds higher rev that what I had synch'd at with before.. Can someone illuminate me as to what "Idle RPM" should be.. and what setting should this digi tach should be set at? I know it's a dual fire ignition system, right? ****************** Ok so AFTER using the dual fire setting on the tacho, and reading in the book that the engine should be set at idle (roughly 1000 rpm) I synch'd up my carbs, which were WAY off after this winter.. So yes, the engine sounds like I am now adjusting it at a much higher rpm sound than before, however, this is a HIGH rev sound for leaving your bike at "idle"?? It sounds too much like an engine at idle with the carb heat (choke) left on full... ?? If I drop it to where the shops tend to leave the idle its now closer to 600 rpm.. smooth.. not chuggy.. taste great, less filling kind of sound. This was my first carb synch with the digital tach and yeah it was nicer and easier.. ONE thing I noticed though that causes me issues when making adjustments. Either settings phillips screw, if you push against them the idle speed drops.. if you leave it alone it will come back.. so when I place the phillips screw driver against the screws, I have to be ever so gentle with it.. so to not muck up the idle rpm setting while adjusting.. is this common? Thanks again.. let me know what you think.. Cheers
  23. Well, I finished up the gauge and tach install..............AND EVERYTHING WORKS!!!!!!! WOOOHOOO!!! The guages were no problem. The tach was a differant animal. Not hard, just differant. Dug050 led me onto the path of righteousnous. Thank you sir! I made up the adapter with a resistor and diode at each coil and she reads about 900 rpm at idle, 2000 rpm with the choke pulled out on warm up. I hooked up to the front two coils. one was easy to get to, the other, not so much but I just took my time, thought things through and everything worked out. I may be making some faceplates with gauges and bringing them to maintainence day. Anyone interested? If I do, I will only be able to make up about 4 depending on the work flow at work and machine availability. Just pm me and we will go from there. I am going to contact the anodizer for color options. Mine are blue. See the attached pic. Now to make some carb covers.................
  24. Ok, my gauges (Equus) all work. Finished the install, changed the oil and cranked her up. Oil pressure came right up, water temp took a few and finally came up to about 180 degrees. Volts, no problem. The tach is not working. The light works but the needle does nothing. So here's the poop. I need some suggestions. The Tach is a Nitrous 2". I wired it as follows: White: Night lamp...tapped into the driving lights. Orange: Wired to the positive battery terminal. Black: Chassis ground. Green: To the negetavie lead on the coil. I am pretty sure it's the negative. According to the repair manual, it's the gray/orange (top terminal). My terminals are as follows. Red is the lower and white is the upper. So I connected it to the white terminal. Red: Is supposed to go to the ignition switch accessory position. I just tapped into the lights again since they come on when the key is turned to the accessory position. This may have been my down fall. I am not sure where to tap into the ignition at. I am not sure if it makes a differance or not. The tach does have a 4-6-8 cylinder switch. I tried all of these positions. Tech support was nooooooo help. Any ideas? I am bummed and pissed. I put alot of work into the tach housing. It really looks sweet, but it would look sweeter if the tach worked! Randy
  25. Well here are my gauges and tach. I designed both pieces with Cimatron E8.5 software and programmed the cnc for the cutter paths. Had them anodized, they did not come out as dark as I wanted, but I think they still look pretty trick. I am using Equus triple gauges and a Nitrous brand tach. Not hooked up yet, that's this weekends project, along with my Utopia backrest. Once this is done I am going to do the crashbar supports and add highway pegs. It's been pretty warm this past week in Michigan, so I gotta get this this back together and road ready.
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