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VR Assistance

  1. 05 RSTD cruise control will not stay on. Just started on the last ride it will stay on for about 3 miles then shuts down, I reset the switch and it will do the same not sure were to start.
  2. Guest

    Not motorcycle related

    Tonight a friend called and said his front brakes are lock up both sides, so I said master cylinder is bad or the caliber pistons.. He was blocking traffic so we called a wrecker they towed to a parking lot in a safe area. Then I notice some wiring hook to the master cylinder trace the wires back to the inside to a toggle switch flip the switch and brakes unlock. He just bought the car and that switch was use for burn outs when, I guess when you are racing.. This is the first I ever seen or heard it. Anyone ever heard of this?
  3. Hi everyone, new here, purchased a very nice 1990 venture. When I got it home notice a bit of oil and found a crack in the shift position switch and the switch was quite oily. has anybody run in to this before? Thanks!
  4. hey guys i found this tip but not able to contact the writer to see if it worked or not? " Overheating Solution Just want to pass a tip to Venture owners who have an overheating problem, especially in cities on hot days. I bought a 1983 Venture Royale which probably had two or three owners. One of them connected the t-fan to a manual switch which I thought was a good idea. But the temp needle would almost jump to red, even with the fan on. My problem is now solved. I took the tstat out and also found that the fan switch was incorrectly connected to the fan. Instead of bringing air to the engine it would run inversed and push the air through the radiator. Imagine! Now the needle never goes more than halfway on the temp gauge and with the fan on it will go down to just over 1/4. Please pass this message on the V-folks as it might help someone out with heating problems. Keep up the good work and thanks. Norman Rémillard " now my question is is it ok or not to run it without the thermo and do it this way,reason im looking and asking is,i live in st.pete florida always hot and in town stop and go traffic the gauge gets way up there 3/4 and a hair above if i sit to long with no real airflow,so i already have my fan switch hooked up so i can turn on for sure when needed,but what about it? no thermo make it run cooler or not? thnx in advance for any and all help. troy
  5. Does anyone have a stock black plastic Ignitions switch cover lying around they wouldn't mind getting rid of? Kind of tired of the scratched up chrome one that I've got. Search pinwall and they only had a tan one from a millennium and partshark wants $41 for a new one. Thanks
  6. I put Ponch gauges in my 03 and like it so much but something was missing......some sort of electric monitor. I chose a Kury volt meter and put it in the space where the Cruise switch was. I mountedthe Cruise in the top of the gas tank cover (see pic). So let me know what you think. Thanks Kent
  7. I finally finished up on my assorted projects, and doing my best to get some pictures up. The main project was the gauge set from Ponch, but I decided to add a twist, and try to put a digital voltmeter where Ponch had the cruise on-off switch located. I tried to eliminate that switch, but wasn't able to feel confident that it was a good idea (though it seemed possible, maaaaybe). Eventually went to looking for a place to re-locate the switch, so the voltmeter could be in the gauge cluster. I wound up with the cruise button mounted in the plastic cover ahead of the gas cap. So far very satisfied with the whole set-up. My biggest worry is that some wire will be in a bad spot and get pinched in the neck area of the frame as the handlebars are turned, or just wear through from rubbing somewhere. We have LOTS of snow here as yet, and this will have to remain un-road-tested for some time yet. My projects included a repair of a broken bolt in the saddle bag rails, changing the rear-end lube, changing and re-locating the fuel filter, changing oil and filter, checking air filters, and wiring in a relay for the ignition switch. The bike looked like a bomb went off in it for a while there, but it's all back together now. My thanks to Mike E (eusa 1) for the bag rail bolt and cap, and to Ponch for a well designed and well made set-up for the gauges. I think it's a fine addition to the bike.
  8. I have a few questions about the "ignition switch failure". First, let me say mine has not failed. I'm just preparing in case it does. I would like to do the bypass of the switch but before I do I would like to ask a couple of questions. Can you have the bypass wired with a toggle switch ready to use and still start the bike with the key and start button as if the bypass was not there? I have read where some have the bypass in their saddle bag ready in case the failure occurs while on the road. Why not have it in place ready to use if needed? How does the bypass work? I understand all power, except the radio, is lost when you have a failure. Once toggled and power is restored, is the key and start button still used to start the bike? I would assume so but if I knew for sure I would not ask. If not please expalin the starting procedure. When you read this and laugh just know I am ignorant when it comes to this kind of stuff, so go easy on me with your replies. Thanks...
  9. on 83. Did not notice when last was working (maybe last year), but just finished fuse upgrade and added running/fog light and stebil horn. Running tail light works. Also added 4 relays 1. headlight and acc bypass ignition key switch(at fuse panel){to limit load on key switch} 2. fog light 3. horn 4. spare, not used at this time checked foot brake switch and have 12v on1 side, and 12v on other side when either foot or handle brake applied. 0v when switch normal. CMS no indication of problem. pulled and replaced both brake bulbs, no change removed truck and got to rear 3 wire connector at brake light 12v on blue(running) 12v on yellow(brake) when brake applied//??4v when brake off?? good ground on black temp jumpered power to yellow side of connector and bulbs worked(sockets ok) semi perm installed jumper from rear brake switch output to yellow at brake housing now all works ok, but have CMS fault(tail lts) only when brake applied Thinking lack of current(amps) to drive brake lights due to corrosion or partial open even though I have 12v at brake housing. Unsure why I have 4v when brake off(corrosion )? Probably need to pull seat (if I can remember how) and check underseat harness, but I am suspecting problem with the CMS(such a pain to pull dash) any other ideas?
  10. Will a 99 kickstand switch fit my 85?? I'm tired of playing with the one I have it just don't want to get better and there is one on Flea-Bay I could grab cheap.. I know I'm asking for trouble putting 2nd Gen parts on it. Probally slow it down quite a bit!!!
  11. Not 100% sure of this, but it seems as it's been the neutral switch all along! Just conducts enough to light the dash but not enough to energise the sidestand relay! All this time it has been on the sidestandwith the neutral light on, but no spark. In order to change the vacuum lines and carb mounts I've had it on the center stand. Finally got done with all that stuff and decided to do some serious electricaql troubleshooting. Measuerd the resistance on the neutral switch to ground and found about 20 ohms or so. Reminded me of when my kickstaqnd switch went out, wasn't open, but had around 6-8 ohms, enough to kill the starting circuit. Soooo, long story short, put the kickstand up, used the clutch to start, and within 30 seconds it was running!! Very rough, but runing. I wonder if 2-3 year old gas has anything to do with it?!!? It has new plugs but they may be somewhat fouled out already. A full tank of High test and a can of seafoam should do something, followed by new plugs again!
  12. O7 RSV has been sitting for 17 days. Turned on key. Lights came on. Hit start button. Heard click and lights go out. That's all. Turned key off and back on. Nothing. No lights, nothing. Thinking ignition switch is bad since I have been reading a lot about that here. After about a minute I turned the key back on. Lights came on. Everything looked normal. Hit start button. Same thing. Heard click. Lights go out. Did this several times. Always had to wait about a minute before switch would work. Checked battery and serviced cables and posts. Battery only 1 year old and has been on battery maintainer. Battery showed 12.98 volts. Checked fuses in left side fuse box. Checked battery + to frame. Full voltage. From all I have been able to glean from this extremely informative site I believe it is my starter relay or its connections. How do I get to it??? Or am I on the wrong track?? Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Jim
  13. Probably a wasted request but what the hey... thought I'd give it a shot anywayz Maybe someone out there has a pair collecting dust somewhere ... either that or maybe decided to switch back to stock or another brand .... if you wanna find a new home for those Khromewerks, gimme a shout.
  14. I just got my tach-gauge set-up from Ponch. Looks great, and looking forward to getting it installed. I'm thinking of making a change in it though. I looked at this digital voltmeter: http://www.digitalmeter.com/cgi-bin/...nfig=ent-datel I'd like to mount that where Ponch has the cruise button. My plan was to mount the cruise button somewhere else (in the dash, bottom edge of the dash, inner fairing, I'm not sure). I'd like to add the voltmeter to the gauge cluster, and I don't need to SEE the cruise button, just be able to reach it. Normally, I turn the cruise on when I start the bike, and not touch the button again. Only rarely do I turn it off, mostly when I'm riding in the dark and the cruise dash lights get a bit annoying. My question now is: Can that on-off switch be wired around and just let the cruise be on full time? The cruise control button on the handlebars does all the actual controlling of the cruise. I'm pretty sure my car and pickup cruise is on every time I start the vehicle, unless I choose to turn it off. Could the bike be the same way? The on-off switch is a bit more than on-off. 3 positions, off, on(to turn it on), and the central position that apparently doesn't turn it on, but keeps it on once it's been turned on. One possibily would be to find a simpler smaller switch that could be located mostly out of sight but within easy reach as you ride. Any thoughts, or outright know-how, on this idea?? Larry
  15. 1999 RSV with 57,000 miles When I put my blinkers on or when I push to cancel, switch feels kind of mushy, and sticks a bit. Can I just shoot some lube in there? Or is that a bad idea? If I do have to take it apart to clean it, what do I need to watch out for? I can already imagine some little spring flying out and hiding in a far corner of the garage. Thanks, Ross
  16. Venture owner. While my 08 RSV was in the shop getting the ignition switch replaced, I traded it on a 2007 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic. My Uncle, who is a huge HD fan, talked me into going by the local HD dealership and ride one. So I did. And I was hooked. I wasn't even thinking about a HD. A GW, yes, but a HD, no. But I'm glad I did. The handling was superb, the ergonomics are great and it feels like a very well built machine. Fuel injection is great. Switch on and press the start button. And guess what, it has a CD player. My RSV had 1 mile on the odometer when I bought it and had nearly 40,000 when I traded. I enjoyed every mile I put on it and plan on doing the same with this HD. I don't plan on abandoning this web site though. I enjoy the forum, met too many good people and plan on making some more "meet and eats". Glenn
  17. My wife bought me a couple of Sidewinderz LED light strips for Christmas for mounting under the tank to light up the engine, but there is no controller or switch of any kind - just the light strips with about 16" of wire on the end of each one. Does anyone have a recommendation as to a simple light switch kit I should get for these? Electrical is not my strong suit, so I'm fumbling with this a little. I did find this controller on the CruiserCustomizing.com web site, but still not sure it's what I need. http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?Category_ID=49&manufacturer_ID=563&product_ID=32058&sblid_name=Street_FX_Electropods_L_E_D_Light_Kit_Power_Distribution_Module&model_id=0
  18. Black Owl

    Xt 225

    Anyone have any experience with the XT 225? Particulary interested in any information on electrical issues and/or ignition switch problems. Thanks in advance
  19. 2001 RSV with 55k miles. Went to start my bike and didn't wait for the 'clicking' fuel pump? to stop before I pressed the starter button. I quickly let off of the starter switch - the bike didn't have enough time to start but did briefly crank. I then set the ignition switch to off, then on, and no power at all; no fuel pump noise, no lights, no radio, nothing. Same thing after numerous attempts. What I have done: All fuses including the main checked and ok. Even replaced some including main. Battery terminals clean and wires secure. Battery checked and voltage is fine. Wires clean and secure to the starter relay. Replaced the ignition main switch with a new one because it was showing signs wear. Still no power when the ignition switch is set to on or acc. What else should I check?
  20. When I got to work last night I parked in the garage as normal. Several hours later I came in off the road and noticed the smell of gas. I look around my 2002 RSV and noticed a small wet spot under the left side. Well I thought it must have came from one of the overflow tubes. I decided to start her up. When I hit the start switch it turned over about three times and then just stopped!!! I hit the start switch a few more times and just got a thud. The third time I held it longer and it turned over and started shooting gas out the left side exhaust. It seem to run ok. Hope I make it home. Guess I should do an oil change in case some gas got purged passed the rings down into the crank case. Has anyone had this happen before?
  21. On the 1st gen instrument cluster there is a reed switch mounted above the speedometer cable input. This reed switch senses the turning of the front wheel and outputs a signal to the cruise control & turn signal cancel circuit. Picture attached below. Does anyone know if this reed switch pulses 1 time per revolution of the speedometer cable or a different number? I don't have a spare cluster head to check for this, and don't want to dig into the one on the bike. I am working on a digital circuit to replace the flasher/hazard relays and the turn signal cancel circuit. I will use the count output by this reed switch to determine the distance the bike has traveled and use this input to cancel the turn signals at some distance traveled point. I know the front wheel circumference and the number of revolutions the cable makes per wheel rotation. With this info and knowing the number of times per cable revolution the reed switch pulses, I can calculate distance traveled. I am going to replace the bulb in the rear turn signal housing with 15 LED's arranged in a pattern that can produce five independent arrows circuits of 3 LED's each. Second picture below. These five arrow patterns will be sequenced to give the appearance of a moving banner in the direction of the turn. At this point I plan to light first the inboard arrow, then at about 1/5 second intervals light the next arrow until all five arrows are lit, then turn off the first arrow, then each of the other arrows at the same 1/5 second interval, until all are off. This will give a full sequence every 2 seconds. This sequencing will be repeated as long as the turn signal switch request is on, or the self timer cancels signals. Also, there will be a brake light circuit that will activate all the LED's steady in both turn signals when the brake is activated. If a left or right turn signal or hazards are activated, the brake light for the corresponding side in the turn signal housing, or both in case of hazards, will be deactivated allowing the side to flash. Center brake light will function as it does now. If I have room in the turn signal housing, I will also mount lower wattage LED's for tail light function. I have an analog (relay) circuit designed that will do the sequencing and brake functions using the existing outputs from the turn, hazard & brake switches. I will convert that design to a digital version which will be fairly compact and low power consumption. I am estimating about the size of a cigarette pack. This controller will also control front signals and dash indicators without the sequencing or brake light features. Gary
  22. The past couple of days my turn signals would sometimes work when the button was pushed left or right, other times it wouldn't work but if I toyed with the switch a few times they usually would work. Today riding home from work, they wouldn't work and nothing I did could get either one to flash. When I got home, I killed the engine with the kill switch and with the ignition switch still on. When the motor stopped running, I could hear a light buzzing noise somewhere near the front of the bike - at first I thought the fan might be running but it wasn't. It took me a minute to figure out that it's related to the turn signals. When I push down on the turn-signal switch or move it to center, the buzzing stops. When I push it left or right for one of the turn signals, the buzzing starts again but no turn signal. Slice the button the other way a little and the buzzing stops again. I guess it's more like a fast repeating click than a buzz. What could be causing the noise and the turn signal problem ?
  23. Ok took the RSTD out on the interstate for the first time today. I went to put on the cruise and when I pushed the switch on it did not come on. it did come on when I pushed it all they way up but not when I just push it to on and it clicked. is it normal to have to push switch all the way to the top of the switch travel before the cruise comes on? Thanks for the help
  24. Well now I know. Thanks to Freebird, I was looking at the passing lamp factory installation instructions in the tech library to find out how to adjust the aiming of the lamps. Who would have guessed that the adjustment CAN NOT be made from outside the lamps? You have to go inside, make an adjustment, put it back together and check it, then if it's not right, go through it again! Darn poor design, but at least now I know. Well, while I was looking through the instructions I found that there is a switch in the wiring circuit! I'm the 2nd owner, the PO had the lamps installed by his dealer. I thought that the lamps came on with the ignition switch, no other option. That little push button switch down by the 12V outlet is so well hidden I would never have found it without having access to the information in the instruction manual. A big THANK YOU to the Freebird, you're the man!
  25. Got on the bike yesterday, turned the key, and the engine would crank but not start. After turning the key on and off a couple of times, it finally started. While riding to lunch, the bike just shut down in the middle of the street. Played with the switches again and eventually it started again. I got it home and noticed that I wasn't hearing the gas pump clicking when I turned it on. Tested the pump and it is great. At one point while it was running, I accidently bumped the ignition key and the bike died but the lights stayed on. That is when I noticed a little play in the key. Is it safe to assume that I need a new main switch? Here are the two main questions....Is there a way to get the switch off without taking the radiator off? And...Why would the engine crank but not start? (I'm hoping that I don't have another problem.) Thanks in advance for any and all help!
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