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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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This past weekend, on the Central Kentucky ride, the switch that controls the speaker/headphones got a bit strange acting then quit working altogether. When I got home, I took it apart and found one of the legs on the switch had broken off, and because of its size, will be mostly impossible to repair. I wonder if anyone has a spare that they would sell. Either the switch button or the black plastic enclosure that the switch fits in to. I would appreciate any thoughts on a technique to repair it as well.
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Ok I have a very odd problem. It is not so much a problem as it is a nuisance. If I use the kil switch ti shut off the engine then when I want to start the bike up I have to 1) turn the switch to run 2) push the starter button 3) turn the kill switch off then on again and then start it. If I just flip it on then off then on again then I will be push starting. I have to try to start it before turning it of then back on. Any ideas? It is like some possessed anti theft or something. Shaun
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Hello I am new here and was wondering if anyone has ever has had a problem with the starter not ever going off? I took my starter switch apart and am unable to figure out how to put it back together also. Even with the starter switch apart it still turns over and will not shut off! Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks you alll so very much in advance.
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In the highly unlikely event that you collide with something small in road and the sidestand switch is damaged, cut the lead going into the switch. You will find two wires. Remove a little insulation and twist the wires together. Just make sure the stand is up before you leave. Didn't show up until I stopped for fuel. Put the stand down and the plunger must have stayed mashed, 'cause the bike wouldn't start in gear, only neutral. And died when I put it in gear. (Stand up or down) Switch must be jammed in open position.
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I installed a set of driving lights about 6 months ago. I wired them independently, with a relay and switch. The lights have recently started going out and coming back on at random times. When i installed them i made sure to have very good ground connections to avoid ground problems later. My question is, could a bad relay act this way? I have already replaced the switch, and since the switch is a lighted switch, i can see when the lights go out. When they do go out after i shut down my bike for awhile, i try them and they work. I think it could be the relay. When i replace it what should i look for? Im sorry, electrical circuits are not my strength.
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I have just started noticing that my passing lights are on sometimes, and not at others. Since I bought the bike with them installed, I have never seen a switch for them. I thought they ran with my low beams, but lately if I pull up to someones back end at a light, in the reflection they are sometimes on and sometimes off. I think it is a short, but wanted to check to see if I am missing a switch. High/low beam doesn't make any diference. I guess I could rewire them to run with both. Is it better to wire a switch in, like I had on my 1st gen?
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i just had something like this happen when i left the hood open on a car in the rain. i replaced the wires and all was fine. THIS BIKE WAS PERFECT FOR THE PAST 1000 MILES UNTILL YESTERDAY I LEFT IT OUTSIDE IN A HORRIBLE RAINSTORM. i checked all the spark plug boots ( three of which are new) to see if the water got into them but they all have there protective seal over the top and bottom of the boot. its arcing somewhere but WHERE? I was just telling myself the other day how much i liiked that the rain didnt affect this bike. IT was a bad storm the other night, so far its been drying for about 1 day and still misfiring. i checked the kickstand wires which i already had rigged and i even cut and attached the wires for the kill switch and i think i already removed the tip over switch, please please help, ps im sure i wouldnt be having this problem if only i had closed the vents on the side of the motor.... -
I have determined by testing and using a jumper wire that my 83 VR has a bad wire from the switch to the first junction behind the headlight. Running a second wire is no big deal but wanting to do a good job of it, how do you get the switch out of the casting for the master cylinder/lever. I have taken the "bracket" loose and everything is good to pull the little section of old wires out but it appears that the wires do not unplug from the switch and I need to get the swith out to have a better look (switch shows as part number four on the parts breakdown and is part number 26H-83980-00-00 - sells for about $35.00) Any help? Steve Neal -
My kickstand switch is intermittent and has killed the engine going down the highway. Any experts out there with an easy fix?
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I am coming from the wing and with that you could listen to the radio and then if the CB kicked in it would mute the radio and you would hear the CB. The dealer told me this system is independent meaning you either listen to the radio or switch to CB and listen for that. Also if I was to purchase a GPS would I be able to plug it into the aux near the cassette and have that work with the CB and radio. Hope my question makes sense.
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OK I am resembling the bike finale and the 4 way flasher switch is acting up I have no turn signals or 4 ways and sometimes I will flicker it back and forth and they will work and so will my turn signals. Is that a sign that the switch is going or am I missing something else in the picture. By the way if any body has a switch for sale let me know. Thanks Al Or is there a way to by pass the switch to make the turn signals work. -
Well folks, this morning mine finally gave me the firm signs that my ignition switch is on the way out. For a long time my trip odo would reset itself and I would have a flicker of the electronics when turning on my high beams; I had isolated that problem to a weakly connected and very corroded ground. BUT, in the last week or two I have noticed a flicker on my speedo when I turn the ignition ON (before starting) and didn't think much of it until this morning... I turned my key to the 'ON' position and then noticed that the display went completely out. When I went to turn the key back off to further investigate I found that it came back on when put a little pressure on the key to turn it from the "ON" position back to 'OFF'. So, now the experimentalist in me comes out and checks to see if I can duplicate the symptom/problem. Sure enough, when turning the ignition to the "ON" position, if I turn it all the way to the right it acts as if it is in the 'ACC' position and a little pressure counter-clockwise puts it back to functioning as if it is in the 'ON' position. Hmmm, so not the question is: 1) Disassemble switch, attempt cleaning/repair, reassemble and ride on? 2) Permanently install the by-pass I built and just let it go? 3) Dump 280+ at my local dealer for a new ignition switch? (haha- NO.) 4) Partshark and get a replacement switch for ~160 5) E-bay/pinwal get a replacement switch for 170 (don't believe me, go look for yourself - what a joke) 6) Of course there is always the "pretend like it isn't a problem until I am in the middle of BFN and my bike dies 'unexpectedly'". -- (haha -- this too is a big ol negatory) I think I will likely go with option #2 and a #1 planned in the near future and #4 as a back-up plan. I actually have a switch all wired up and ready to go where all I would need to do is snip the current wires and tie the bypass in. What I would like to come up with is an easy setup that would allow for my switch to be installed and ready to go allowing for a simple 'unbolt the tank and plug in the switch wires' solution, that way there is not the risk of someone flipping the switch and riding off with my bike without the key (I realize that is VERY unlikely to happen but still a possibility). So, I guess I'll need to get out the trusty old 'dingy' wiring diagrams (THANKS AGAIN!!!) and some thought. I guess I am venting more than anything here, so don't mind me and my mindless writing; although I wouldn't argue with suggestions -
The neutral switch on my 87 XVZ1300 is leaking oil. After opening the side cover I see that the wiring is cooked pretty well and I'd like to replace the switch assembly while I'm in there. Have a source for a new old stock 1984 XVZ1200L switch and am wondering if that would work as a replacement? The price is reasonable as compared to the dealers crazy price. If it won't work, does anyone know where I can get a reasonably priced replacement switch. Part numbers on the package of the possible replacement part are 41R-82540-01 A890725C 62 0612-3 -
Any suggestion as to what and where to purchase. Mine is not a Royal and I bought one off Ebay that mounts between the grip and the power switch assembly - Problem is, on my bike the throttle grip and the power switch do not seperate so the bracket cannot fit between them. Thanks in advance. Roger -
The fuel pressure switch sends constant voltage to the fuel pump relay on my bike. I can see this when the pressure is low but when pressure is achived I stll get 10.2 volts up to the relay ?????? is this normal ????? The relay will close when it gets 10.9 volts or higher. I guess I am just wondering if I need to change it or not. Or just let the pump run full time LOL.... Any help would be appreicated... -
I'm about to have my ignition switch replaced again (44K miles). The first time was around half that mileage. The first time Yamaha also paid for redoing the locks on the saddlebags, trunk & helmet locks. This time they'll fix the ignition, but, said they won't do the other part. This really annoys me. They wanted to know how this has happened twice to me, never to anyone else. They think I must carry a wad of keys. I don't. Only the bike key, not even on a key ring. I don't want to carry 2 keys &, yes, I know I can have 1 key cut on one side for the ignition & the other side for the saddlebags, etc. That is what I will most likely do, as it's the cheapest way to solve the problem for me. Regardless, I still think Yamaha should fix the problem at their expense under warranty. I guess I'm looking for advice. Thanks in advance for any insight. I only feel a little better after venting this.
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1983 Venture XVZ12TK My key failed to turn the ignition main switch, and I could feel that the pins in there were totally trashed. Nothing was going to fix this but a replacement of the whole ignition. The old part number was 26H-82501-00-00. The new part number is 26H-82501-01-00. It finally arrived and what a surprise. The new part is designed in such a way that it cannot be installed without some major mechanical work on it. The two bolts that hold this main switch in place are in a recessed cavity, like a little volcano with a hole at the bottom for the bolt. (See photo Original Part.) I had to use two long extenders on my 3/8" drive to get to it, because it was so far up in the front end, but get to it I did and removed these bolts. However, when it came to installing the new switch, this recessed cavity is much narrower. Sure, the bolt will fit in there, but there is no way to also get in there a #10 socket or an open-end or box-end wrench, or even the points of needle nose pliers. None. Nada. Nix. I spent three hours cutting down three sides of the volcano walls on each side. (See results of this not-very-pretty work Replacement Part.) I used my drill with regular drill bits and a special side-cutting bit. I used my Dremel with cutoff wheels, grinding wheels, and even two dental bits that I obtained from my dentist some years ago. I even used a saber saw. Someone, somewhere didn't think about having to install this when they designed the replacement part. If I knew who to forward this information to a Yamaha HQ, I would certainly do so. Anyone know how to do this? Really, if this new ignition switch is common to a lot of years of Ventures, the pain will be spread a long way. I wonder if they use this part in new bikes, and if so, how to they turn the bolts? Comments welcome, especially if you can tell me how to get this info to Yamaha HQ. -
Quick question for you all. I was thinking about looking at an '89 for sale nearby. The listing says the brake fluid was replaced with DOT5. Has anyone done the switch to DOT5 fluid? Are there any concerns about using DOT5 on an older bike? Thanks in advance...
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how do i replace my ignition switch on 1986 yamaha vr ? thanks Al
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If you remember me with the stuck float, I've got it unstuck and tested by activating the kill switch. No more fuel out the overflow. Got it all back together. Now the Starter won't turn over. Kill switch is on Run. Lights and horn works. The last time the starter turned over was when I was turning the engine over trying to unstick the float. Open to suggestions. -
All of these safety switches I just cant get the starter switch to work, I still start the bike but I have a switch hooked to the starter relay (solenoid) and the + post on the battery. It works but if it doesn't start right away well all those amps going thru a 10 Gage wire the smoke starts puffing and soon there's fire. I bought a new right hand throttle Assembly from a site member so I'm sure the starter switch is good. All the possable relays and safety switches are mind boggling, kick stand,clutch,neutral switch on and on. On my riding lawn mower the first thing I do is bypass them. Is there any way to bypass all these switches and just get the starter switch to work or a way to rig a switch up to get the job done. I know the switches are there for safety reasons but as far as I'm concerned if you don't know your in neutral or the kick stand is up you probably shouldn't be riding the bike any way. Any help would be greatly appreciated its been a tough few years and the funds are tight so I really need a cheap quick fix if there is one. Thanks Pete
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I had the local stealer install the Yamaha driving lights. I had them wire the lights so they are on all the time except when the high beam is on. They didn't install the switch. So now I'm thinking is that practical or even safe? I ride at night and want as much light as possible on the road. I replaced the stock headlight bulb with a PIAA intense white. I'm wondering if I should re-wire them so they are relayed through a switch and I can turn them on and off regardless of whether or not the headlight is on low or high beam. How do you run your driving lights? Any comments or suggestions are welcome. Chris in Red Deer, AB -
Started when I switched dash lights out with LEDs. Suspect issue always there, but unseen with incandescent dash bulbs. I noticed every time I shifted up or down, any gear, neutral light would illuminate for just a fraction of a second. I was at first thinking mechanical, (play in shift shaft against neutral switch) as it seemed to happen just as clutch was re-engaging. Then I remembered that there was a clutch lever switch in the neutral cutout starting circuit. After playing with clutch lever some more, I believe the issue is in this electrical circuit. Does not matter if I shift or not, nor how much I may feather the clutch, always lights at same point just before clutch lever at full release (suspect point for lever switch). Also always just a fraction of a second flash, even if I play aroung the spot of the lever switch, I can not get neutral to stay lit for any more than a flash, unless in neutral of course. Not sure what exactly is happening in the circuit, but as I found out with the RLU dash light, the new LED bulbs will illuminate full bright with less than 2volts stray voltage. Not calling it a problem, and not likely worth time to figure out and correct/bypass/mod..etc. Just interesting fluke from using LEDs.
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I ha d Earl work on my 89 VR over the winter and one of the things I had him change was the switch and clutch lever because the cruise would cut off when I went over a bump in the road. Well, to make a long story short, I went for a ride today and the cruise doesn't work. When I turn the switch on, both the power light and the resume light come on and stay on. I cannot set the cruise. Also, the bike would not start with the bike in gear and the clutch handle in. I had to put the bike in Neutral to start it. I took the switch apart on the clutch handle and cleaned it and lubed it with dielectric grease and it now starts with the bike in gear and clutch in, but the resume light and power light are still on and the cruise does not work. The cruise worked, before I had the clutch handle changed, but would go off when the clutch handle was wiggled. So, I am not sure what to look for. I assume that I have a bad connection somewhere and will have to take the fairing off to look at the wiring. Is there a difference in the switches on the clutch handle, between years, as I had Earl change the switch that I bought off fleabay and now wonder if there is a difference in the switches. Has anyone had this problem before? Any suggestiions would be appreciated. Jim
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