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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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I need a brake light switch for the front brake master cylinder. This is for a 84 Venture Royale with cruise control. Does anyone know the part number and if it still can be purchased thru Yamaha? I think I read somewhere that you needed a four wire switch when having cruise. Thanks
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My 96 Royal has passing lamps. Looking at the owner's manual, there is supposed to be a switch located somewhere in or around the left handlebar control. I assume it is supposed to be a momentary switch that only turns the lights on when the switch is pushed and held? Is this switch part of the control housing, or is it mounted externally? Whoever mounted the lights on the bike added a toggle switch to the left light housing. I can't even reach the switch unless I stand in front of the bike. Can anyone post pictures of the proper switch for me? Anyone know of a source for it?
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I need a little help! My bike won't start. I just finished working on my turn signals (the cancellation unit connection was loose and dirty) started her up and was getting ready for a little drive with the working turn signals, but first stopped by work to get something (about 2 minutes away). Went in and came back out and would not start. The power comes on and accessories and but there is nothing at all when I hit the starter...nothing. I have tried the following.... Checked kill switch (many times) Trying with kickstand up and down... clutch in and out...etc. Jumped the kickstand shutoff switch check fuses What other things should I check? It is sitting in a parking lot, so easy stuff first is best. Is there an easy way to check the starter switch? Is there a way to bypass the switch to get the bike started so I can get it home to the garage? Any advice is welcome
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I have a short in my light bar. (I guess that's what you call it...The chrome bar that holds the turn signals and the ?Fog lights? They are on sometimes and off sometimes. It is not the switch (which seems to be built on to the cigarette lighter. When they are working, the switch will turn them on and off; but when they are not working, turning the switch on and off several times, never brings them back online. I have removed the seat and jiggled wires and never got the lights to go on or off or even flicker. Even when they are not working, everything else on the bike works, even the front turn signals which are attached to the light bar. My next plan of action is to open the fairing and trace the wires. Just thought I would ask about this, in case there was some common problem that was known and someone could point me in that direction. Thanks dana
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What is the beat way to lower the pedal? By looking at it I would have to remove the floor board, loosen the bolt on the brake shaft, rotate it forward and re-tighten the bolt. Then adjust brake light switch. Is there anything else I should do or have over looked? tew47
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Well my body decided to give me a break and I was able to get back to working on the RSV. I have installed the accessory fuse block , the ignition relay and emergency bypass (Between the relay and ignition switch as per one of the schematics I found here, thank you) and have run a couple of 14 gauge "hot" wires from the new fuse block up to the fairing for the relay to the lights and one for ...well, whatever I think of next. Now I was about to remove the ignition switch to repair it since Mike (eusa1) has kindly offered to guide me through the work (Where else can you get this kind of help?) but, here's where I hit a snag. I don't have a bolt extractor so I was going to use a dremel tool to slot the bolt heads and use an impact driver to remove the bolts, but it looks as if even my smallest 15/16 in. wheel will cut into the switch housing before I have a usable slot. What size cut off blade did those who did it this way use? Also does anyone know what size bolts I'll need to replace the ones I remove? Or are they re-usable if I remove them this way? Once this is done, I'll be splitting the fairing to install a relay for the driving lights and headlight, but first, I want to complete this work.
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I'm installing a set of white, 5 inch long LEDs on the rear, for the purpose of getting dangerously approaching vehicles attention to a momentary switch? I'm not sure how legal this is but I would like the two lights to alternate back and forth at a much faster rate than a normal turn signal. Does anyone know of such a gadget?
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I have some under the kitchen cabinette lighting. It has one of those touch sensor things that increase the light 3 brightness then off. Its about 2 to 3 years old and is used alot for it really brightens up the kitchen counters. One day my wife went to put it on and the touch switch flashed/sparked then nothing after that. SoI took about the controller circuit board and found a blown fuse. I unsoldier the fuse and then went looking for a 3amp 250 volt glass fuse (like an auto glass fuse). Places do have the fuse but I need one with fuseable wires at the end of the fuse so I can soldier it to the circuit board. None at Radio Shack. None at Fry's Electronic. So I cliped off one end of the wire off the old fuse and tried to soldier it to the new fuse. no luck the soldier won't stick to the metal end of the fuse. So then I went looking for a singel fuse holder that I could soldier. No luck. So I'm thinking, what if I bought an auto inline fuse and soldier it and found a place to tuck the fuse holder. Does anyone see any reason why that wouldn't work or be unsafe? Next I'll need to find a touch sensor switch for I'm guessing that the touch switch shorted out causing the fuse to blow.
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Looking for one of these, the box, bracket and the bolt. I'd like to make a sw box out of it. If you have one let me know what you would want for it.
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I mentioned in an earlier thread that my ignition switch has started to go (Have to wiggle it around to get things going). I am now attempting to install a fuse block (ATC style - 6 positions) and some relays (Driving lights, headlight) to avoid a repeat of this problem. I also plan on installing a switched bypass - just in case. In the meantime, I ran across a thread where someone disassembled their ignition switch, cleaned it and reinstalled it. I was wondering if this is worth the trouble? Will it last or die an early death? I read another thread that stated that sanding the contacts might remove all or most of any coating they had leading to an early failure. If this is true, I see no reason to do that much work only to have to replace the switch later. The stores in this area are light on parts so I had to get a 6 fuse block. It's a bit big, and trying to fit it near the battery is tricky. I'm thinking of attaching it by means of a hook and loop fastener to the rear fender just behind the driver's seat. The only other available spot is under the front of the driver's seat over the various vent hoses. As far as I can tell, the seat doesn't press it against the hoses but it is still a tight fit. The fender seems like a better option. I've attached pics of the block and the two potential mounting spots. If I go for the fender, I will have to attach something to the bottom of the block to fit between the existing wires - sort of a smaller pedestal. Squeezing it under those wires would make a fuse change too difficult. Does anyone see a disadvantage to the fender mount? There should be enough weather protection but I could try to fabricate some kind of cover to give it a bit more protection if necessary. Sorry this is so long, but I want to get it right the first time. I hadn't planned on this and had been saving towards the upgraded clutch kit, which I also need. Now this has thrown me a bit of a curve as dollars are a bit tight these days- as most of us know only too well! Andy
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So ... went out to the cold garage this morning (36 F. - ouch - Winter is definitely coming!) to start the bike and...no dash lights. The radio was coming on, as was the alarm but no dash lights and no start. As I was in a hurry (Club breakfast.) I started the Triumph and headed out on that. Oh the irony! Had to use my English bike because the Japanese bike wouldn't start. The exact opposite of the 70's! When I got back, I pulled off the seat and checked the battery - 12.71 V. which, given the temps and my efforts to start it earlier, seemed reasonable. Tried again and got a flash at the dash. Aha! Played with the key and, sure enough, everything is on! Moved the key a bit and off it all goes. Damn. The ignition switch! There is a tiny 2 or 3 degree arc between working and not working. I guess I waited too long to install a relay on the passing lights (I have them on all the time...gets cagers to notice me.). So...has anyone successfully repaired this switch or am I looking at a replacement? I've checked most of the main threads to date and it seems everyone either puts in a replacement or uses a permanent bypass. I wouldn't mind using a bypass that still requires the key to be on, but wouldn't that also require a properly working ignition switch? At least my gas tank was nearly empty, so removal should be a touch easier.
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I just bought a 1999 Venture this week, there's a problem with the cassette deck. The PO got a cassette stuck in the thing and couldn't get it out. As a result, it won't turn off, and the battery will drain in 3 days. His solution was to wire a switch into the fairing that turned power off to the radio/cassette. The problem with this is I loose the FM channel presets when I turn the switch off. I'd like to remove the cassette and create a space for my MP3 player. If I unplug the cassette, will the radio still function? or do I need to jumper some pins on the plug? Thanks, D.W.
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First, This is my first post to Venture Riders. This looks like a great place to be if you ride a Venture or Royal Star. Secondly, I would like to apologize; this post will be a bit long. I have an electrical problem that has me baffled. I have a 1997 RSTD, 31280 miles. Bike runs great, very comfortable, love the look. But it developed an electrical issue. Riding along, the bike died. Other electrical items remain on. Turn the key off then back on, it started right back up. This condition was very random; it may be fine for the rest of the ride or it may die again in an hour or it may die in a mile. After research I believed it was the ignition switch. Everything I read, heard or saw indicated the switch was bad. Since the Yamaha switch ws so expensive, I decided to use a generic switch and duplicate the switch circuit; one hot wire in and 3 power wires out. I built the circuit, replaced the switch, spliced in the wires. Turned the key, had lights, turn signal, horn, CB, fuel pump etc. Hit the starter button, nothing. Pulled in the clutch, nothing. Raised the kickstand, blew the main fuse. Aha, the kick stand switch. Jumped the switch, put in a new fuse, turned the key and blew the main fuse again. Pulled the starter cut out relay, and reading the service manual checked the continuity across the blue/yellow pin and the sky blue pin. The relay appears not to have continuity. There is infinite resistance showing on my meter in both directions. I believe the relay is bad. So is the relay bad and it caused the issue, or is it bad because of the ignition switch issue. OR is the kickstand switch bad and it caused both the stalling problem and the possible dead relay? Again, sorry for the long first post. Thanks in advance for any advice, I really appreciate any help John -
I want to put some some small 55 watt plattuiem burners on the mirror brackets for my 91 VR. Being that the PTT switch by the left grip is not used for I use blue tooth, I would like to activate the Burners by the PTT switch as a signal. Also I would like to put a regular lighted toggle switch to activate the Burners for longer use. I plan on using a relay. My thoughts are that I can do this, but would like conformation that I would not be creating a electricial problem.
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I met Ron in Bancroft today at a planning meeting for some renovations that need doing there. I rode my bike the 5 hrs return He owns an 86 VR and was asking if I might know why his cruise control did'nt work. I asked if he could start the bike while NOT in neutral...he said "no" so I suggested it could be his clutch switch...or possibly his sidestand switch. I also suggested he check out this site for MUCH better technical assistance than I could ever provide. So Ron....if you read this WELCOME....there are a few threads with titles like "is this site worth the $12".. read some of them and decide for yourself. The folks here are a pretty decent bunch...relatively speaking!
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87 Venture. top right of fairing there is a relay. Have a jumper I put in the socket to allow turn signals to work. If I leave it in the battery will go dead. Local dealer absolutely no help. Would like part number or even name of whatever relay plugs in there. Also, ignition switch sticking and headlamp sometimes will not work after starting. Would like to replace that as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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This does not have a receiver.... So if you are a PGR member, it would be hard to switch from flag holder and back to trailer. I just saw it and thought this might help someone else. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.m748&item=190582644319&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D3155915016270951475#ht_500wt_1182
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I have heard that using the kickstand to shut the bike down is not the best option and that the kill switch is best. Any reason why? Thanks
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Hello, I finally got my 83 Venture running well enough to ride. Rode to work Saturday. All went well. Got home and went to leave again, Hit the starter button and nothing. No crank, headlight goes out, and gauge lights dim. It will start and run if I jump the starter solinoid contacts. I took my starter switch apart and cleaned the contacts but it made no difference. I found a guide on cleaning the switch by Dingy (old thread from 2009). I noticed that in picture 12, the switch contact pad looks like it is raised. Mine is completely flat/smooth. Would this keep it from making contact? Also, if i flip the kill switch on and off, I can hear a relay switching, so it seems like the kill switch is good. I havent had time to do the tests on the switch yet. I just saw what looked like a possibility. Any thoughts?
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Anyone Interested In Selling A Hazard Switch for 89 VR, before I bid on bay? -
The wife bought me three 18" red LED light strips to mount on the RSV, which I'll probably mount under the tank rim so that they will light up the chrome in the engine area. Just not sure about what kind of on/off switch to get or the best place to mount it. Any suggestions?
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I have a 2008 RSTD and want to add spotlights. I purchased as set that were original equipment to early 2000's Indian, which has the turn signal built into the bottom of the spotlight housing. They mount fine on the RSTD spotlight bar. Does anyone have a diagram of how these get wired into the right circuit? I have seen where RSTD owners have added a toggle switch for on / off. Where do folks mount that toggle switch? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. R.
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Well, my ignition switch is showing signs that it's getting ready to fail. I wired a bypass tonight, don't want to get left stranded in the middle of nowhere this weekend, headed to Copper Harbor, Mi. I have been reading the tech section for ideas on how to go about fixing the switch. How many have tried disassembling and repairing the switch ? This thread details fixing the switch. What I'd like to know is if others have had success doing this repair?
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Hi all! I have a really dumb question and I know it touches on my post yesterday about relays and driving lights but at the same time it is separate. Forum monitor please forgive me. I bought a relay and all of the parts I need to put a relay in. I printed a couple of different posts that had schematics and instructions. I purchased a simply on off push button type switch that is more robust than the one that comes with the Yamaha light kit. I have a couple of questions; (1) what is the difference between a simple switch that has two connect points and one that has three? Also I want to hook my lights up so they are on all the time whether I am using low or high beam. The official Yamaha instructions says" On all the time: Splice red power lead to red w/Yellow stripe lead (in natural nylon multi connector) My assumption is that what they are referring to is what the instruction I have read call "Switched Power" and that one wire goes from here to one terminal on the switch and one wire goes from terminal 86 of the relay on the coil side to the other connect point on the switch. Sorry, schematics confuse me. My apologies for the dumb question. Any help is appreciated Chris in Red Deer -
I turned my bike on yesterday and the driving lights wouldn't come on at all. The dealer did the install back last December and they didn't put the switch in as per the Yamaha instructions. I'm almost certain that the fuse inside the faring is blown and that I have a pinched wire either in the centre of the bar mount or when the bike is swung all the way out in one direction. I did notice that on the right hand side when I swing it out to expose it, that a blue wire looked pinched. Today I purchase all of the necessary parts to install a relay and a switch. I have been reading lots of the posts on this subject and my one question at this point is do I have to take the gas tank off in order to do this? One post with pictures says that the gas tank has to be removed. Has anyone installed a relay and a switch without having to remove the gas tank? Thank you in advance Chris
