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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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I'm getting different answers. I know my OD light comes on when I switch into 5th. Do the '07s do it in 4th? -
Passing Lamps - where is the switch???
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Hi All, I just bought a 2000 Royal Star Millenoium Edition with the factory passing lamps, but I do not see how to turn them on. They do not come on with the high-beam or low-beam. Is there a separate switch? Thanks PK -
I installed The new JMCB-2003 CB this weekend. when purchasing the unit i ordered the yamaha mounting kit. the kit is for the star bikes. you remove the left mirror and bolt the mount in its place the the mount and cb mount to the rear of the bolt and the mirror bolt into a hole in the cb mount plate. well this doesnt work with the 1st gen as the clutch resovoir is a bit higher then the bolt on our bike that has no mirror in it. the bolt is used to hold the stereo control switch box. this also was an obstacle. wha i did was remove the switch from it mouning tab by the 2 small scres on the backside. I then turned the mount over so the switch was down rather then above the mounting bolt. tropuble wasa now due to the angle of the metal piece and the switch box when mounting the cb down tight over the stereo switch it pushed down on the switch and cause trouble with the switch operation. So i removed the stereo switch and drilled a new hole so it mounted about a 1/4" lower. installed the cb and all fit well now. I then removed the stock antenna and installed a Firefly cb antenna with fold down mount from http://www.walcottcb.com/ I wanted to keep the single antenna so i added a splitter in the cable so the antenna works for bolth cb and stereo. I suppose the splitter take away from the cb power but im just looking for communication for group riding. not long distance talking. with the stereo input tapped into the stereo speakers the music from my stereo and Ipod with fm modulator is heard in my headset along with the cb. they also have a way to connect cell phone and gps if you like. in the first photo you can see a hole in the front of the cb on the chrome mount the is the hole they say to use to mount it but i used the hole in the back that for the mirror instead because othe the resevoir being higher on the 1st gen. you can also see the new lower stereo controls position.
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FAULTY IGNITION SWITCH Temporary Repair A few weeks back I stopped for gas, and when I turned the key on there was no electrical power, except for the radio. There was no lights on the dash, no headlights, or any other power, except for the radio. After checking all the fuses, which were okay, it was suggested the ignition switch could be the problem. To get to the ignition switch wires you will have to remove the seat and the top cover by the key (two Allen head bolts), and then remove the Fuel tank, by first removing the breather tube on the top of the tank, the electrical connection and the fuel line (under the tank). There are two Allen head bolts at the front on each side of the tank, and one bolt near the seat, before you can remove the Fuel tank. After removing the fuel tank there are two plastic covers on each side of the switch, which are held on by a small Phillips head screw and a plastic plug. http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image001.jpg Referring to the manual, Section 8 page 2 stated that switches could be tested for continuity. The manual states, on the main switch there should be continuity between the brown/blue wire and the red, and between the blue/yellow and blue/black wires, when the switch is turned on. I used a multi meter and started checking the wires for continuity. This should be done on the backside of the plug, to prevent damage to the plug connections. I found that I had continuity between the Blue/Yellow Wire and the Blue/Black Wires, however I did not have continuity on the Brown/Blue Wire and the Red wires. I used a 10-gauge wire and inserted it on the backside of the plug between the Brown/Blue Wire and the Red wires and then I had power on the dash and fuel pump started clicking. Therefore, I spliced the Red wire and the Brown/blue wires and connected a 10-gauge wire to the spliced ignition switch wires. I ran this new 10-gauge wire to the handlebars and connected these to a 50-amp single pole toggle switch, which I taped to the handlebars. Please note the 50-amp switch is most likely much larger than required. http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image003.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image005.jpg New Switch http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image007.jpg Wires (on new switch) http://www.venturerider.org/switch/image009.jpg When there is no continuity between the Brown/Blue wire and the red wire there will be no power, except for the radio. These wires close the circuit to the main fuse, battery, starter relay, starter motor, and the Start Switches (including the clutch, neutral, side stand, and stop switches). -
Possilbe bad Switch on my Yamaha Passing Lamps
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Has anyone had trouble with the little switch on the Yamaha Passing Lamps for an '05 RSTD. If so, what, and how, was the problem resolved. Thanks in advance. -
Can anyone tell me how much trouble it is to replace the front brake switch that activates the brake light. Mine is shot and I have a new one on order.. I need to know if it is a relatively simple job to replace it or if I have to pay my local dealer $80/hour.
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Cruise Question: My '88 Royale will be going along fine on cruise when all of a sudden, it shuts off. I can't associate it with hitting a bump or anything like that. Any ideas? Answered: If the resume light comes on and you can reset the cruise; the Clutch lever has to much play (this should also allow you to start the motor in gear), or the rear brake switch is to tight and needs adjusting. The clutch lever is the most common; it can be a worn bushing or a bad switch, or on high mileage bikes it can be a warn pivot hole in the lever its self. The series circuit for this goes from the clutch switch to the hand brake switch to the cancel switch to the rear brake switch. These switches are all normally closed, so any switch can kill the cruse. Has it lost 5 miles per hr from the set speed? This could be the vacuum pump or the speed sensor on the speedometer. Their are tests in the service manual to check out these possibilities Fred Vogt The following problem came up at V-Daze in Kalispell MT. . The member got the bike to a Yamaha shop that worked long hours to try to get this member back on the road. They changed the stator, regulator and even put a new battery in the bike and because they didn't find the problem they didn't charge the member for the work or the parts they used. I would like to thank that dealer for trying so hard to resolve this member's problem and if they read this. "thank you for your support" Symptom: Battery shows discharge with the motor running, if the clutch lever is actuated it charges again. If the front or rear brake is actuated it charges, but not as much as if the clutch lever is depressed. The curse control will not work. All of the fuses are ok. If you disconnect the wiring to the clutch switch or ether brake switch the bike charges normally. If you disconnect the cruise control unit it dose not help. If you disconnect the vacuum pump it dose not help. If you disconnect the cruise controls on the right handle bar the bike charges normally. Checking resistance with a meter shows no shorts or shorts to ground on any of the connectors. Solution: Upon dissembling the cruise controls on the right handle bar we found a wire from the cancel switch pinched under a screw that held the switch together. After taping the wire and reassembling the controls the bike worked normally. Note: To say that this was a bizarre problem would be an under statement. It was obvious that this wire was pinched at the factory when it was assembled; but waited for 30,000 miles to show it's ugly head. I call this type of short an active short and is very difficult to find because unless voltage is present it will not show a short on any meter. The path for the cruise control cancel voltage is from the rear brake to The front brake then to the clutch switch then to the controls on the right handle bar and finally to the cruise control unit. I doubt that this problem is going to be a common one but; it dose bear thought because any short in the canceling circuit of the cruise will give similar symptoms. Fred Vogt 1037
