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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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It never ends, this shinola. Wanted to do a 50-miler today to start working up to a road trek, weather cooperating, up in the 50s. Left the house, went two miles to a gas station. As I was coasting up to the pump she just unceremoniously up and quit. Like I hit the kill switch. After the fork rebuild, triple tree grease job, clutch slave cylinder replace and assorted small jobs it also did this after it warmed up the first time. Just sitting in the driveway idling, then it just died. Ran the battery down trying to start it, so put the charger on and it fired off again after a couple minutes. Figured the battery had gotten down in the cold and down time since before Christmas and that it didn't leave enough juice for ignition. Then today it happened again. I have started my flyaway kit and had a socket set and a combo screwdriver in the trunk, so removed the top cover to look at the fuses and connections again. I know I have a broken spade on the ignition fuse, but it also controls the starter, which spins just fine. Tried wiggling wires and anything I could reach while cranking, no luck. Decided maybe it was a charging issue so I unplugged the headlight, put everything together again and suited up, just in case, hoping that maybe there would be enough volts without the headlight to get back home. She fired up, so I hopped on and prayed that the 3 lights between me and home would be green. They were, and I made it a mile before she quit again. Pushed it to a school parking lot, and this time I pulled the tail light bulbs. JUST TO GET HOME Y'ALL!! Anyway, she fired back up and I made it within 3 houses of home. Do-able. I've looked at everything including: the emergency cutoff switch, the side stand switch and relay, the wiring to the fuse block and TCI (Ignitech), I have a Radioshack digital meter but I'm beginning to suspect its voracity. Rode around the block for about 10 minutes with it hooked to the battery. I get 13.5 volts idling, then it drops to around 13.1 around 3000 rpm. Dash gauge shows the drop, too. I checked the resistance on the pickup coils and got 136, 272,272, and 267 ohms respectively, book says should be 110± 10%. So those are way off. Think I'll cruise by Radio Shack and see if they can check the accuracy of my meter... So there you have it, sorry for the long post. I've looked for corrosion and loose or broken wires. Battery is right at a year old and freshly serviced with acid. Still suspecting it's a charging problem the way the voltmeter is acting. I haven't check the voltage regulator yet but that's my next step. Thanks for your help! Richard
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I have a 2008 RSV, I pulled up to a stop light one day when the light turned green I let out the clutch and the bike stalled out. When I looked down I had no power, I checked the main fuse and battery both were good. My neighbor looked on his phone while I was checking these, he said the ignition switch was notorious for going bad. I pulled the ignition switch cleaned it up, I put it back together and it worked fine. I rode for a week with no further problems, then getting ready to leave for work the same thing happened. I used a volt meter and checked the ignition switch sometimes it would make connection sometimes not, when I got the bike home I looked at the ignition switch again. I could get power and even got it to start a few times however I could never get the neutral light to come on. I put a universal switch on and get power to everything except I still do not get a neutral light and it will not turn over. I have checked the clutch switch, kick stand switch, neutral switch, automatic kill switch, manual kill switch, and the starter button. I suspect it is the ignition cut off relay or the ignitor, I have had no luck locating the ignition cut off relay and not sure if there is any way to test it if I did find it. Has anyone experiences this problem? I have a random short in the radio, not sure if it is in the remote head or the main radio. I did find it shorting out so I disconnected the radio, after looking at a wiring diagram I noticed what looked like a wire going into the radio so I pulled the fuse and reconnected the radio. This does not seem to effect anything I have looked at.
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Good Afternoon everybody if any of you have been following my progress (i assume not) I have been rebuilding an 87 Venture royal and i have hit another snag... I finally got the bike running (by cleaning out 10 pounds of rust from the fuel lines and gas tank) and i am onto testing my cooling system and my temp gauge doesn't move. i tested the thermo switch and its resistance changes with temperature (like it says in the manual) and so i check the back of my gauge and it reads its getting voltage but still nothing so i'm stumped anyone have any ideas? here are some pics of the bike in progress
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There's been several times members here have by passed their ignition switch due to either switch failures or as a preventive to ward off failures. Today I decided to also do that to my bike and at the same time do a write up on it per a recent posting on this topic. For those who wonder why this is needed or desired the ignition switch has the majority of the power going thru one wire to feed lights and ignition requirements. Needless to say the switches contacts take a beating over time caused by overheating & normal wear & tear. The accessory part of the switch seems to never have this type of failure so this does lend credence to overloading on the one line being feed. By adding in a common 30 amp auto relay to that part of the circuit we can take the majority of the power off the switch before it gets there and route it directly to the line the switch powers, thus saving the switch. You'll need a couple of short 14 gauge wires, push on terminals, shrink wrap, and a 30 amp auto relay to do the job plus a soldering gun and wire stripper. To start you need to remove the drivers seat and gas tank. The gas tank is held on with a single bolt on the end by the seat plus two allen head bolts on the sides up front. Remove the cover by the ignition/gas cap. Disconnect the overflow vent hose and the fuel sender wires. The tank can be lifted off and set down out of the way now. Disconnect the (-) negative cable from the battery as you'll have one wire live otherwise. On top of the engine locate the wire harness coming from the ignition switch. There will be two red plug connectors going through a holder. Pull those out. The one you'll be working on will be the 2 wire one with a pink plug on one end disconnect that plug. Picture 1 shows it well. The next step is to splice a wire to the red wire with 14 gauge leaving it long enough to work with. Refer to picture 2 Cut the brown /blue wire leaving enough at the plug side to work with. Add a short length to both ends of the cut wire. Using a butt connector, soldered, and covered with shrink tubing will give a solid connection as well as protection . Add a female spade terminal to both of those ends. Do the same for the red wire spliced earlier too. Cover with shrink tubing after soldering them. Make a ground wire with a eyelet end on one end and a female terminal on the other. See picture 3. I used the closest bolt holding the radiator fill cap in place to ground the eyelet. The opposite end will attach to the relay. Connect the wires to the relay follows: spliced Red wire fastens to #30 terminal of the relay the brown /blue wire from the switch attaches to #86 terminal on the relay the brown /blue wire going to the harness connects to#87 terminal on the relay the gounding wire attaches to the #85 terminal on the relay. Wrap the wires up with tape and tuck them back into the harness holder. Pics 4 & 5 show the completed job with the relay as tucked in on top of the engine. Note: While this mod will prolong the life of the switch a long time there's always the posibilty that the switch can still fail through normal wear. If it does you can simply connect together the red wire and the brown/blue wire on the harness side to get you home. Some folks take this a step further and add a toggle switch between the two wires. I don't think it's neccassary on newer bikes but if you're experincing any ignition troubles now then I would certainly see the advatage of adding a toggle switch where you can get to it without having to remove the tank.
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My ignition switch is bad. Must be the second time because I have two keys, never knew I was only supposed to have one. I have seen much talk about adding a relay to take stress off the switch. I would like to put in the relay when I redo the switch. I am fairly handy, but the elecrical side of things is one of my glaring weaknesses. Is there a step by step post that shows how to do this? Any suggestions on where to get the switch? What type of relay to use? Can the switch be cleaned up and keep on using? Thanks, Ross -
I need to purchase a front brake switch for an 86-93 VR (with cruise)...any sellers? Thanks Dave -
I wanted to get a new housing for one of my passing lamps. Yamaha can't order just one. I decided to go with H3 Halogen so they (Yamaha) ordered the ones for the tour deluxe. They have a switch on one of them that I didn't want or need. What do I need to do to make this work, and get rid of the switch? I'm doing a makeover on my 99 RSV , and I'm trying to get things finished before the painted parts are done.
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I'm wiring up my heated vest and I am installing a hi low off switch. Anyone know what type of switch I should get? Spdt or dpdt? I would prefer one that I only need to wire in a single power source so it should have a built in resistor if there is such a thing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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I've looked for the switch everywhere. Owners manual doesn't say anything. Thanks -
Cruise Control Blows Fuses
Midnight Trike posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Turned the cruise on while riding today, cruise lights flashed then nothing. Checked the fuse when I got home and it had blown. Replaced the fuse, started the bike and turned the cruise on and it blew again. Went through the Clymer manual and the switch looks like it has continuity. Tried one more time and it blew another. Has anyone else had this kind of trouble with the cruise? -
I heard about this forum from the gentleman i purchased my bike from a year ago. it has been such a good bike I've had no issues so I spent my time riding instead of logging on. I do have an issue that came up today. I have a fully charged batter, fuses all check out, ground appear to be in place but I have NOTHING when i turn the key. it ran fine yesterday. help anyone!! Update: after taking off a bunch of plastic and removing the radio, i found a broken switch. not sure what it is, want to order a new one. it is a switch that attaches to the main buss fuse and is mounted inside the radio compartment. it has a knob that you push/pull to make something work. after i put the switch pieces back together, i now have power. it doesn't look like the kill switch (1NL-82501-00-00) that the yamaha dealer suggested. any guesses out there. help!!!! thanks for your time and input. final solution: I figured out the switch mystery. A previous owner put in an anti-theft switch. I found a perfect match at O'Reilly auto parts. A 75-amp push/pull switch. I'm going to get a new one and replace the one I reassembled previously. Thank you to all who gave me possible solutions. -
I have rear running lights which are wired directly to the ACC fuse block thru an illuminated switch. (switch lights when rear lights are on) What I want to accomplish is to add a relay feeding this switch and a 2nd switch for my front running lights. I already have the 2nd illuminated switch mounted on the dash.....now I just need to know how to wire it up! I have this wiring diagram for relays (see attachement) but CAN or should I run 2 switches off one relay? and how would I do it?
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hey all I just got a set of walmart driving light (18 bucks ) going to put them on the 83 . there are no other accessaries at all strickly stock bike. im thinking of just hooking them up just wires and switch that they came with complety seperate from anything else and get power from acess. fuse top of fuse block. lighted switch going through panel next to left storage box , and just turn em on when i want. anyone see any problems with this? i am planing to add more lighting to side and rear later on but im sure those will be led,s .. -
I am going to replace the thermo switch on my 1989 VR 1300. How big of a job is it to do? Do I need to take the right side of fairing off to get to it? I guess it went bad when the PO had it. It has a toggle switch on the left side of fairing to turn fan on and off. Thanks.
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I'm so sick of being stumped on this 1st Gen I'm going to start arguing in favor of the 2nd Gens. Here's what happened this time. Bike had been sitting for a few months. Went down to crank it . It started without too much difficulty but I noticed the headlight wasn't burning. So I read through a few post and got a clue to check start button switch. So i did and noticed while cranked the light would come on if I wiggled the start button. Took the switch apart, cleaned it, put it back together. Cranked fine and light worked fine just like it was supposed to. I'm thinking problem solved and move on to something else. Reinstalling radio that has been disconnected for a while. So when I get the radio installed and begin to put it back together I turned the key and hit the start switch. The lights come on fine but now no engine start. nothing no click no starter spin nothing but the headlight lighting.:bang head: Nothing that I had done since last starting the bike should have effected the starter switch. But now with the key on and shorting the starter relay out it will crank and run but not by using the starter switch. What could have possibly happened?
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Hey everyone, just got my 1999 Royal Star Venture last week and the cruise does not seem to work at all. A couple of things I have discovered, please let me know if I am wrong. The main switch after being depressed to the "ON" position should spring back to the centered position??..Mine does not. Same with going to the "Off" position. It will stay in either of those positions and not spring back to a centered position. Secondly, when I turn the main switch to on, the "ON" light comes on and so does the "SET" light without touching anything else. Shouldn't that light only come on after depress the "SET/ACCEL" button? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!! Dan
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I have a question about a problem I'm having with my headlights Firstly, I have added a set of cheap walmart passing lights to my 89 Venture. I can be driving down the road with either my extra lights on or off and the little computer on my dash will blink on. I can turn off the passing lights and the trouble light will go off for a few minutes and then start blinking again. I installed a relay and tried to wire it the best that i can. The switch for the passing lights is the high/low switch for the dimmer switch on the left-side handlebar. BTW...my lights work fine. My question is: Has anyone else have this type of problem with this type of setup and what did you to alleviate the blinking light on the dash? It's starting to drive me nuts. Thank you gentlemen, I'd appreciate any help that you might think of. Ken
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I thought that all 1st Gen Choke Switch are all the same. Located at the bottom of the switch housing. What years are between Switch Housing and the hand Grip?
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Yamaha FRONT STOP SWITCH ASSEMBLY http://partstream.arinet.com/Content/Images/logos/YAM.png Part Number:26H-83980-00-00 can anyone tell me if this is the correct part i need for 84 w/cruise i went to clean the switch and pulled the rain cover off and found i had nothing butthe contact board i am finding that i enjoy working on my bike fixing the little things giving it a lot of TLC but i cant fix whats not there thispart list for 26.00 from i think yamy parts monster and yamy parts house thanks in advance for the correct part # i need -
Where is the dang thing? The schematic in the book says it has 3 wires, Br, Br/W, and Y/G. But I don't see it. I switch to LED's and want to put in an electronic turn signal relay. Thanks, Bill
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I am installing my new OEM passing lights on my '07 tomorrow. There is a tremendous amount of information here on relays, installation, etc. As usual, the fine folks at VR.org make seemingly tough jobs easy. I think I have all the answers I need except one... Dingy posted a great relays101 document here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43150 This document shows the diagram attached. I want to make sure I understand where I am going with terminal 85. I am going to run from 85 to my toggle switch and from my switch, I will tap into the wire of my choice detailed in the installation instruction chart attached. In my case, I want them on all the time so I will go from 85, to switch to Red/Yellow wire, correct? Thanks all!
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well i cant get any air to build up. pump clicks but has no output. this bike has sat for a few years. the motor should run not click. so would this be the pressure switch turning it off. and could i disconnect the switch and run compressor. or is the system smarter than i think.
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My fan is not working, I have isolated problem to the thermostat switch in the coolant tee. Anybody have a spare one ?? I need an 1st gen MKII version with 2 contacts on it. See attached picture. I can bypass it for now with a switch. Gary -
Just ordered some OEM driving lights. Now I gotta figure out a switch. What I would love is something reservoir mounted that included a toggle switch and a couple of USBs. I can't find that but I found this. It would be easy to get to and discreet. Anybody have any other suggestions? http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/bikers-choice-oval-mini-push-button-handlebar-switch-kit-for-1-inch-diameter-bars-chrome-each/part/BC-370268?action=fitment
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I have a 2005 Royal Star Venture. Recently (this riding season) I have been experiencing a problem. When listening to the radio, and trying to talk on the cb, the channel changes when I push the talk button. If the display unit is on the cb display, the cb channel changes. I've checked the connections in the fairing, and they are all good. Was wondering if maybe the talk switch was bad? I did have to spray some cleaner into it to be able to transmit. Any thoughts? Thanks, George
