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VR Assistance

  1. Well, yesterday I decided to take my new battery back to the store. It was pulling down to 7 volts during the initial starter inrush. It tested well on a load until the store turned it up to about 175 amp load. Then it fell flat on its face. Got another battery and gave it a 6-8 hour charge. Stuffed it in Mocha and hit the starter. WOW- starter has so much speed and torque I thought it was a different bike! BAD NEW BATTERY. Now I have a new fuse panel, new wiring, new master fuses, new 4GA battery cables, new grounds and a happy grin. I even put in an extra circuit from the battery to a relay for driving lights. The system holds 14.4 at idle, 14.6 at 2K and above. When I step on the rear brake it goes to 14.8 for a moment. Must be the anti-dive and the rear brake lights. Thanks to all who gave suggestions and told their tales of electrical woe. It all helped. I will take pictures of the problem areas I found and my cables and fusebox for our archives. Happy New Year JB and the now well charged Mocha
  2. OK, I turned the gas off to my house , to remove some gas appliances , and well Now my furnace wont come on, So ya ll will know it has a spark starter kind of like a grill. Tried the directions about turning off for 5 min, and all that stuff. Please help me!.....Fred
  3. Hey all, I may be able to pick up an old 1100 Virago with starter and carb issues. Has new rear shocks, battery and solenoid. I am looking at it as a winter project and will sell it come spring. What sort of problems do these bikes have besides starter issues? Any comments or advice is welcome. Rick
  4. The voltage on a 85VR dropped into the yellow 8volt area & drained the battery, replaced the rectifer/regulator worked just great for 2 weeks, now volt meter is down in the yellow zone again. Manual indicates that it may be the starter coil [where do I find the starter coil?] & have I burned out another rectifier? I enjoy wrenching, dont understand electrical :confused24::confused24:at all so walk me through slowly. Thanks in advance Stewart :canada:
  5. OK, here goes my stupid question. On my '88 VR after riding when I turn the engine off you can hear the starter disengage. This sure does not seem right. Is this natural? If not what is going on, and how can I fix it?
  6. The bike just died, Jeff is trying to help any buddy else want in. Head light, dash, tail, turn work. Jumped starter relay starter worked. will check kick stand, kill switch and emergency and starter relays. any other ideas. Did 600 M trip to WV ran fine , Thanks Dale
  7. Does anybody know if a 99 Venture starter will bolt in a first generation?? Frank
  8. This seems to be the year of the breakdown for me, so far I have replace the stator and rear wheel bearings on my 89. A couple days ago the bike would not start. Hit the starter and hear the relay pick but the bike does not turn over. Replaced the battery and the same thing. Put the bike in gear, give it a small push, and try it again. Works fine, bike turns over like a champ. Any thoughts on what might be wrong?
  9. My 93 Has Had A Noise Coming From The Starter Clutch For Some Time Now But Its Getting Worse, Only On Start Up And When The Engine Is Hot It Will Really Make Some Noise. If I Order #7 In The Picture Below , Will That Give Me Everthing I Need To Fix The Problem ?. I Know I Will Need A Cover Gasket. Thanks
  10. Posted on 7/29 about my electrical system gone whacko on the 02 RSV. After checking everyting I could, finally caved and took it in to the dealer. The good news is they found the problem, the Power Amp or MCU unit had failed. This is an audio component, but also has some of the guages and part of the starter system running through it. The bad news is this little beauty is over $1000.00 along with the starter relay that fried and labor, total $1500.00. I'm 4 months out of warranty so they said I had to eat it. Thought I would give customer service a call for giggles and lo and behold they agreed to cover the parts. Back on the road and so far so good. Of course the dealer had never heard of this happening before, sound familiar? Tony was the contact man at customer service and did a great job and quick. This is just for information in case anybody else has the problem. Thanks.
  11. Went to start my bike this morning, turned the key, hit the start button and nothing! Neutal light is on, and the headlight dimmed as I hit the start button. Does anybody have any ideas before I shell out $300 for a new starter motor? Thanks
  12. Hi all Got something really weird going on with my '02 RSV. A couple weeks ago the audio cassette/radio stated cutting out at higher volumes, but seemed fine at 9 or below. The whole display would cycle on/off like a circuit breaker was being tripped. Still trying to figure this out when the other day after a short ride I restarted it and the oil and temp warning light come on but dim. Pulled over to check it out and seemed fine so went to restart and here's where it gets wild. Turned the switch to on and the starter kicks in on its own and starts the bike! Shut her off and tryed it again and now stater won't kick in with the switch. Fooled around a while and bike starts on its own again, so rode home a few miles. Repeatedly self started in the garage, audio won't play on acc but does on "on", oil/temp lights get brighter when clutch is let out, no response on the starter switch now. Once while checking out the audio menu on acc, the starter just starts cranking her over and wouldn't stop until switched to "on" and the bike started. No blown fuses, engine warning light not blinking as manual says if an electrical fault. Checked continuity on the main switch, ok. Any ideas whats up here? Demonic possession? Help!
  13. I was in to the relays when the starter switch stuck, dose any one have some relay boots the want to let loose of ? They are broken all but one or may be know some where I might get some. Probably not good for them to just hang there. Thanks, Dale
  14. What are the basic settings for my carbs. I have heard that there are starter settings on the sync screws and idle screws.
  15. Really guys, I'm not a whiner, just trying to edumacate myself here --- I came home today to test the RSV start up and battery: 1. Turned ignition to ON (used Squeeze suggestion too!) 2. Amber ck engine light came on for 2 seconds and went off 3. Hit the starter -- red coolant and oil lights came on and went off as soon as starter was released. According to the manual, the Amber ck engine light shld come on AS THE STARTER IS PUSHED -- not when the ignition is turned to on. The bike is turning over right away and idling nicely. Soooo......? What's up with the amber light coming on with the ignition and not with the starter? Thnx for your patience and help, DREBBIN
  16. First Generation Venture Starter Clutch Repair Thanks to GeorgeS for the GREAT write-up On my 89, I completed pulling the Rotor and Starter Engage Clutch Assembly today. --- Here Is what I found ---- ---- One of the three mounting bolts, was--- loose---- and backed out about 1/2 turn!!!!! It appeared to have not had any Loctite applied at the Factory. ---- The other two mounting bolts were Tight, they -- Obviously--- had Loctite applied at the Factory Installation. -----One of the small springs was bent, another had damage on the end, and the third appeared to be OK ----- One of the spring caps, had lots of wear on the open end, and tip. Other two, not bad. ----- The about 1/2 Inch thick material that makes up the Center of the " Starter Engage Unit " ( which appears to be Brass, its copper color, but much harder then copper) Has a Crack completely through it !! Another photo of Cracked engage Unit. Also the ElectriX After market Stator. ( For anybody who may be interested, note the larger diameter wire, than they used on the Stock Stator units ) Another comment, on pulling the Rotor, It did not move Until it finally came off. It Flew Off. After applying heat for about 30 seconds, on the 4th try, of heating and Tapping with hammer, it flew off, went about 2 feet. ( I used an Automobile harmonic balancer puller, you will need to buy 3, 8mm bolts, 3 1/2 inch long, fine thread ( 1.25 pitch ) ( High Strength Steel bolts ) for the rotor pulling job. Also a butane soldering torch will come in handy ( map gas, whatever you have for heat ) I did not find any Damage on the 72 tooth Gear, behind the Rotor. -----I'm adding a close up view, of the three Mounting Bolts, so you can see the " Staking method " used by the Factory, as called for in the Service Manual. One bolt was loose so, obviously they did not Do It Right. Note: In the photo below, see the 8mm 1.25 thread pitch " Tap " I used to clean out the threads in the bolt holes. This is the best way to remove the Old Loctite there, before reassembly, be sure to clean threads with solvent, before reinstalling the " NEW " bolts that you are going to order , when you order your New " Starter Clutch Engage Unit " -----Also adding Photo close up of the springs + weights that fit into the assembly. ( Note: the Crack in the Brass material ) -----Also Photo of Starter, and Gear Drive to the 72 tooth sprocket. ----- Also view of Entire Engage Unit as to how it fits to the flywheel ( rotor ) -----------My, Entire Engage Unit, needs to be Replaced. --------- -------The Unit has 57,300 miles on it.------ ------- The first time I heard the noise was around 20K. -------- I have Done All the Other Fixes as discussed on this web site: This is the first time I have pulled the Rotor Off. It took me about 4 hours, but I'm retired, and I don't work fast for anybody anymore !!! ( that includes the wife !!! ) Still waiting for the New Parts to get here. ( Going to be 50 F tomorrow !! well I guess I will just have to ride the Busa until I get this job done , Darn !!! )
  17. Well it looks as if my battery is belly-up. What are the opinions on replacement batteries for the 1st gens? I'd like to go maintenance free if possible, but looking for the bang-for-the-buck factor. Don't want to throw a wad of cash out, but will spend a bit more for a better battery. Also, does anyone have a good way to do a load test on a battery to make sure if it is the problem or not? I could hook up a 12 volt load to it, but I have no idea how long it should last. The battery reads 13 volts after a couple of nights on the battery minder jr, but won't crank the starter more than a couple of revs before the relays chatter. Fluid levels are good, battery light is off. I ran a new cable I made out of heavy guage aircraft electrical wire to the starter. I've looked at the archives, but I think many good battery threads, must have been lost back in the crash. The dang electrical problems ended my season early, and I want this thing running well before spring. Any other ideas will be appreciated.
  18. Anyone got any sugestions where I could find a deal on a used starter for an 88 1300? The bikes got nearly 156,000 miles so I don't want to spend $400+ on a new one, or $200+ for a rebuilt. I hope to find a good used one from a salvage yard for about $100+ anyone got any sugestions for a good yard that might have one. or perhaps a self rebuild solution? Needed ASAP JEFF
  19. Starter This article should help the do-it-yourselfer understand the probable cause and cure for the starter. The starter is a high speed DC motor that uses carbon brushes much like the ones used in a rechargeable drill motor and can have the same or similar problems. If your starter drags (runs slow) when you try to start the bike in cold weather or when the bike is at operating temperature, you have one of two possible problems: You will need a battery or you need to fix the starter. If the battery is okay, you are going to have to remove the starter from your bike to find the problem. To remove the starter, I would suggest that yon start by removing the radiator and the thermostat housing. I have found the best way to remove the radiator is to take all the hose clamps and four 10 mm bolts on the side, loosen, then pull the top hoses off; then take the bottom ones off using great care with the small hose in the center of the bottom tank. This tube is the only one that is NOT SOLDERED! It is a press fit and if You pry too much or slip and hit it as I did, you will find yourself on the way to the local radiator shop to have it fixed. To remove the thermostat housing, remove the two 5 mm cap head screws at the bottom of the unit and remove the small metal tube; then the large plastic pipe from the housing or the pump. Now remove the two 10 m bolts holding the rear of the starter to the motor and remove it from the motor. NOTE: It's a tight fit, so spray some WD-40 on the front of the starter where it fits into the motor and carefully pry it out. Now that the hard part is done, you should clean the outside of the starter and look for a scribe mark on the front and rear covers where they meet the center part of the housing. Now, remove the two screws that hold the starter together and tap the rear cover off. Note there is an O-ring seal at this joint, so be careful not to damage it! You can now see the rear bearing and the brushes; check them for wear. Carefully remove the front cover and the armature from the center part of the housing. Note this cover also has an O-ring seal. Inspect the parts for rust and wear, use #600 emery paper to clean the corrosion from the commutator. A dirty or corroded commutator is the most likely culprit for a dragging starter with a bad rear bearing running a distant second. If the bearing is stiff when you turn it, try a thin oil or WD-40 on the back of the bearing until it turns freely. This should work unless the bearing is damaged; and in that case, it will have to be replaced. Yamaha does not have a part number for the rear bearing, so take the number off of the bearing and go to your local bearing outlet, then go down to your dealer and have the bearing changed. Check the armature shaft where it fits in the front cover and the gear at the end of the shaft for wear. If you find noticeable wear, the starter will have to replaced. Next, you should check to see that the coating on the copper wires of the armature is not damaged. If you find exposed copper wire, cover it with a coating of shellac, varnish or clear fingernail polish. The last thing to check is the commutator itself. To do this check the spaces between the copper bars to be sure they are free of foreign material and that they are slightly lower than the copper bars. Most starters will only need cleaning, but if the commutator needs work, Page 7-4 of the service manual covers the necessary steps to be taken. If you have decided to replace the brushes, install them before you reassemble the starter. If you found rust inside the starter and you have used the high pressure water at the car wash, you know what to do, or should I say you know what not to do. Reassemble the starter and remember to line up the scribe marks before tightening the screws, and you could also use some non-adhesive silicon to help the O-rings do their job. Test the starter before you install it by using jumper cables and a battery, then test it again after you have it bolted in place. If it passed the tests, reassemble the rest of the bike. Fred Vogt, #01037
  20. The handlebar starter button seems slow to pop back out when I release it. Is that normal or can I spray some sort of electric contact cleaner on the button to free it up? Thanks
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