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  1. Is your Venture vying to look like an old Harley? Last year I developed a leak that I thought was the mid-cover gasket so when I repaired the stator that started to dye and the center bearing in the transmission, I replaced all the gaskets. Now that should have been that, but the leak is still there spotting the floor like a bad puppy. I have let the trike set for a long time (2 months) and noted that the leak was getting worse, so I took a look at the underside of the motor and found the culprit. It was the seal on the shift shaft at the rear of the motor and this was first time that I have had this seal leek. The fix Having a trike to work on will make this easier because I can put the trike on auto ramps that will make the oil go forward in the engine and not have much come out when the Mid-gear & clutch cover are removed. It also gives me an extra 6.5 inches of space under the bike that will make this job a lot easier. If you have a lift it would make this job easier also. 1) Remove seat, tank top, side covers. 2) Note the position of the clamp at the end of the shaft, mark the shaft so you can put it back in the same position. My shaft was marked. Remove the 10MM bolt & Spread the clamp with a blade screwdriver and remove the clamp with the screwdriver and leave it attached to the screwdriver. (See driver.jpg) 3) Place oil collectors under the case covers cuse it’s gonna leak. Now remove the foot pegs, clutch cover & mid-gear cover. 4) Remove the clutch spring (s) & pressure plate. Use a screwdriver to remove the clutch plates keeping them in order so they can be put back in the same position (yes it is important!). (see Rplates.jpg) You do not have to remove the clutch plate held in place with the wire. 5A) Bend the locking tab away from the nut & while holding the clutch boss with Yamaha or home made tool, use a 30MM socket and remove the nut, plunger and ball bearing. (See tool1.jpg) If you have an impact wrench go to 5B 5B) You can use an impact wrench to remove the nut, but you will need the tool to torque the nut when you reinstall the boss. 6) Remove the clutch boss, thrust washer and clutch basket. 7) Lift the claw on the shift mechanism and pull it out about 2” this will clear the seal. (See claw.jpg) 8) I had to make a tool to remove the old seal because I have did not have anything that would do the job. (see tool2.jpg) 9) Be sure to oil the new seal then Install the new seal by taping into place. I did this by using a ¾”socket with wheel bearing grease on the end & 6” extension inserted in the socket backwards. (See tool3.jpg) Now use the female end of the extension to seat the seal into place. 10) Now reinstall the shift shaft by lifting the claw into place on the shift barrel. 11) Install the basket, washer and boss on the shaft and tighten the nut to 50 FT LB holding the boss in place with the tool. Lock the nut in place with the locking tab. 11A If you don’t have a tool to hold the boss & because this shaft is part of the transmission, if you re-attach the bracket to the shift shaft and put the motor in 2ed or 3ed. Then it should be possible to hold the foot brake down and torque to 50 FT LB. I have not tried this but I can’t see why it would not work. 12) Install the clutch plates the way you found them. (See Iplates.jpg) 13) Now reinstall the clutch Ball bearing, plunger, presser and spring(s) torque bolts to 5.8 FT LB. plate (remember to align the dots on the presser plate & basket “See dots.jpg”) 14) Use the screwdriver to put the clamp back on the shaft & a pair of Forceps to put the bolt back in the clamp, tighten clamp with 10MM socket. 15) Put the case covers back on and torque the bolts to 7.2 FT LB 16) Replace foot pegs or the floorboards. 17 Replace any lost oil. This repair is not particularly difficult, but the space is very small to work in. I did have a problem in removing the old seal and had to make a tool. Fred
  2. I have the new 2007 Star Venture. I have about 12,400 miles on it. Its sitting on a lift, waiting for a new drive shaft. Noone in the U.S. had the part, it had to ordered from Japan. Anyone else having a problem with their bike. The wife explains" the wheel fells like its sliding", mostly around turns. she kept questioning the tire pressure. Now we kept hearing a whinding sound as the bike slowed, loudest sound came, down shifting into third gear. like a WUAAAAA sound. I brought the bike in a fewtimes, because, it felt like to front end was hopping. I had the front end checked 3 times, like the pads were rubbing, after a while 4000. miles we had the rear brakes checked, still nothing. The service rep, rode the bike after changing the gasket on the left side of the bike from a leak. He herd the noise, and brought the bike back in and removed the tire, and checked the drive shaft. sure enough, the teeth were chipping off, and the threads were rounding off., upon dropping the rear end oil, we found small peices of metal on the magnet. so we ordered, evey part connected to the shaft, for replacement.
  3. I've been working on my engine for the last few months and it looks really nice now. However, since I have the engine out of the frame there are a lot of other things I have been doing as well. Now before I put the engine back in, I decided to install zerk fittings in the shock linkage of this '89 Venture Royale. The linkage design was changed between for the '88 model year. There are two shafts, one joins the front linkage to the rear linkage, the second joins the shock to the front linkage. It took a lot of force to drive the first shaft out and it looks like it had never been lubed. rust pits in the shaft, dust seals disintigrating, etc. Then I tried to remove shaft 2. I used the bolt that threads into it , loosened it about 1/4 inch and used a drift punch against tthe head with a 16 oz. hammer. No movement. I soaked it with WD-40 and bought a 10X100 bolt (twice as long as the original), threaded it fully into the end of shaft 2 and hit it as hard as I could with a 24 oz. hammer about 30 times:starz:. It moved enough to get a feeler gauge under the head of the shaft. I think I'm going to have to remove the monoshock and use a hydraulic press to remove this shaft. In case there are other problems, does anyone know if the 83-87 version of the linkage will work on the 88-93s? I can get a complete linkage addembly from PinWall for about $40 plus shipping and I think I will just to get the shaft and bushings. The eight bushings run about between $14 and $18 each and the shafts are $21 each from MRCycles. Any advise on how to get the shaft out would be appreciated since I don't have a hydraulic press. I can't get to the front end of the linkage while it is still on the shock. I'll get pictures of the engine up soon, with the repaired paint and polished side cases!
  4. Thanks to Cougar for this excellent write-up FYI- Picture's of Rear Tire Removal Well, With all the searches and Folks Changing out there REAR TIRE. I learned A Lot today from you guys! And I said to myself ** SELF ? ** why not try this and takes some pics for other folks? Ok, here go's... I did what most of you said ! I did remove the Bags Because I had a hard time getting that little part out for my new Bag Rails. So they were off and Thats when the light went off and figured I have these Brand new Michelin Commanders laying around so I went to work on this project today.. With a Few emails to Mr. FreeBird! I got the Job Done! (thanks) Then I went Ahead and removed Both Mufflers (tell ya why in a bit) http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_029.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_007.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_025.jpg Then I Used a 1 1/16" Socket and took the main bolt off http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_019.jpg Then Remove the Rear Brake Caliber and place it on the passenger foot rest. This is also a good time to loosen the pinch bolt on the right side. The axle will NOT slide out if you don't. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_014.jpg Then undo the bolt for that swing arm thingy. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_011.jpg Now this is were I was glad I did remove the Left side bag and Muffler Cuz I could not for the life of me get that darn MAIN AXLE BOLT out with out having to take my socket extension and hammer it out.. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_003.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_010.jpg Here she comes! http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_005.jpg KEEP IN MIND THAT YOU PUT THIS WASHER BACK IN THE RIGHT ORDER WHEN PUTTING BACK TOGETHER! http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_008.jpg After the Shaft gets about half way is when I could pull the rest of they way on my own. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_005.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_027.jpg Note: My bike was on a Lorin Lift. So What I did was have that rear tire about a half inch off the ground when I pulled that Axle. (worked great) http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_018.jpg Then I lifted just a bit more and pulled from the right side until the tire kinda fell on its own. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_016.jpg Now the FUN PART! I just kept lifting http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_024.jpg MORE http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_026.jpg AND MORE http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_015.jpg AND MORE http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_017.jpg Man it was getting Scary! sheesh! http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_021.jpg Even with more room left the lift on my jack the tire Came right out! *VBS* PLOP! http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_004.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment.jpg Put back together in reverse order ~S~ I also did this as well. Took the main rear Diff off and there was no grease on the Splines. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_013.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_020.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_002.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_022.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_009.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_012.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_028.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_006.jpg This is what my Rear Brake Pads look like at 5,100 miles. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_023.jpg then I did the Front! (easy) And the lift kept the bike very stable even after the front Tire was removed.. I am impressed with the lift. When my tires get done being Mounted and Balanced I will go into the HUB and get that all greased up as well! (this was very simple after I got it all figured out and the help from reading what you Pro's had to say. Its just sometimes I need to SEE a picture to make me understand more *LOL* I hope this will help folks if needed.. I know I sure could have used something like this. ( this is on a 2K MM with 5,100 miles on her) Jeff P.S. PLEASE add any comments in case I made a mistake ! Thanks! NOTE: this Job could be done in 30 Min's with Pictures *LOL*file:///C:/VentureRider/wheel/showthread.php_files/rasberry.gif PLEASE READ ! OTHER NOTE'S BY, Denden, When you're re-assembling it... After you put the driveshaft in, put the differential on but leave the 4 nuts only finger tight. Then install the wheel and axle. Torque the axle nut to 110 ft/lbs. After the axel is torqued, THEN tighten up the 4 nuts on the differential. John Drummond, "Wrenchman" When you go to install the drive shaft a small diameter wire like an old antenna mast works great for holding the yoke up so you can slid the driveshaft in. Once the shaft makes contact with the yoke you can pull the wire out, and slid the shaft in to the yoke. This might take a try or two to get it in but works pretty well for lining up the yoke. Buz Rutan, "Naturbar" The author of the article says "I could not for the life of me get that darn MAIN AXLE BOLT out with out having to take my socket extension and hammer it out.." here is my addendum: On my 07 RSMTD - at the end of the axle shaft there is an place to use an Allen Head wrench - if you will turn it counterclockwise (loosen it) the axle shaft comes right out with no hammering (clockwise - or tightening to replace shaft)- also if you have slight pressure on the wheel assembly (i.e. tire resting on floor)while removing the axle it makes it much easier to remove.
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