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Showing results for tags 'shaft'.
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Last fall my '86 developed a whine coming from the rear tire area, I checked it out as best as I could and decided that the inside wheel bearing by the final drive was probably shot. So this spring I got a new set of bearings and replaced them, lubed & greased up the clutch hub and changed the oil in the final drive and made sure the backlash was OK. The oil from the pumpkin was VERY black but there was only 1 very small piece of metal on the magnet & I did not find anything in the bottom of the drain pan. I got it together tonight & just got back from a test ride and am frustrated that the sound is still there . . . but much easier to pinpoint now that the bearing is corrected. I'm getting a wine that is audible from the drive shaft area of the bike. Using a long screw driver as a stethoscope and the bike running in gear on the stand, the sound is the loudest at the input of the final drive. Is it likely that the drive shaft just needs to get lubed up again or something more serious? If that is not it does the big bearing for the input shaft go bad @ about 100K? Has anyone replaced the big bearing for the input shaft on the final drive? Is it difficult? OR . . . it best to start looking for a new final drive and leave that one alone? Thanks, Mike -
I have recently been given an "88 Venture Royal , with 104k miles , and its been pulling a very heavy trailer on long trips . The guy said he was concerned about the milage , and its starting to make a little noise it 4th & 5th gears . In fact it makes a very loud gear whine in all gears , that changes with speed both pitch and volume . At 45mph and up , and holding a steady speed it is the worst . It goes away if you coast , gets quieter if you accelerate or decelerate . My first thought is pinion gear , which this thing has 2 of . And I can't tell if its motor end or final drive end . And it is leaking motor oil at the front drive shaft , and is definitely worse with a passenger . With the bike on it's center stand , and in gear , I can rotate the rear wheel 3 to 4 inches of play . What would be normal here ? I'm hoping for only the crush sleeves on the pinion shaft to be beat up / bad . Has anyone had any experience with this ? -
here is a peek at the new bike to come. if I was 25 again I'd sure give it some thought http://www.motorcycledaily.com/2011/10/honda-confirms-v4-shaft-drive-crosstourer-going-into-production/ Dray
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83 model, bought the bike w/22k, now 33k. Pulled in the clutch (didn't "feel" right) shifted to first, lunged forward. went to shift to second, still in 1st. Housing is broke, hav TIG access, I'm not concerned, as I can weld it back together. I am concerned with the way the shaft "feels"(might be broken) The 437 page pdf manual doesn't really address the transmission shifting shaft. Thinking about purchasing a Clymer manual. Thought I would check with all the Venture Rider wisdom first. Previous owner installed floor boards and heel/toe shifter. -
Is this any good. The final drive is out of my 91 vr and when I changed the gear oil it had metal flakes in the oil . WHen I removed and replaced it the drive shaft pulled out and better minds than mine says that I had broken the pinion shaft.. NOt sure if its any good as far as a repair . Or if the drive shaft can be removed from the shaft its incased in. Help please as I would hate to throw this away if it would be of some use to another person, or is it a paper weight now? David
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So... my tranny needed some work. I have the parts. I am swapping gears and bearings over to my new transmission drive shaft. I have the end of the shaft with the proverbial wore out shims done which is the main cause of the second gear slip! I am trying to get the gears and bearings off the other side of this shaft. I see no circlip and the assy is tight...even put some light pressure on it with my press. The parts schematic shows a circlip, but I see none... ( part number 25 if you can open the attachment) Anybody? Hate to push to hard and damage something. -
Does anyone know a reliable supplier for Butterfly Shaft Seals for Mikuni BDS34 Carbs? MikesXS.com has the single-lipped version and I guess they might work, motorcyclecarbs.com has both the single and double-lipped at a fairly high price. The problem is that motorcyclecarbs.com is offline at the moment and, in any event, they do ship very slowly and are not highly recommended. Surely someone else in this vast country stocks them? Thanks for your help.
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The CMS and therefore the gas gauge is not functioning. The knob and faceplate are missing from my petcock reserve switch. There is a stopper tab connected to the shaft that points fore or aft. Assuming OFF is in the middle, if the shaft is turned all the way clockwise would that be the REServe position or the On position?
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does anyone have 1 cam shaft from a 1st gen, 2nd gen, or vmax that they're willing to donate to the cause of building a shim tool by flyinfool ? will pay for shipping. the cams can be bad, really need to play with the hex area between the cams where the shim tool rides. TIA
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Hi All, Just wanted to get aquainted with everyone so that as I go through my project and ask for help you'll know what I'm up to. A couple er 3 years ago I started a project to put a Venture drive train and electronics into a legend's race car. Not just a standard legend but one that would have two seats and be registered for the road. Fast forward to now,,,,,,The frame has been widened and is complete, the body has been widened and is mostly complete except for the hood and grille. The rearend is installed with a 4link. The engine/trans is mounted but not yet connected to the drive shaft. The current project is the exhaust. We intend to run them into side pipes. The two biggest projects left is an offset drive between the trans and the drive shaft to reverse the direction of rotation and to get the output back to the center of the vehicle to line up with the drive shaft and of course the electrical system. I intend to incorperate the complete electrical system from the bike into the car including the dash board/speedometer, stereo, CB etc. At the moment I don't have any pictures handy but I'll try and get some posted later. Thanks in advance for allowing me to lean on your knowledge as I'm sure I will as I attempt to get this project going. TR
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On the Gen II is the swing arm adjustable left to right? I have installed a Tri Wing trike kit and when the drive shaft is lined up, the diff is offset about 1-1/8".
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Rear end trouble...need advice HELP
CMIKE posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Saturday we rode down to Hammond LA to eat some crawfish, It was a spur of the moment day trip, there and back. Crawfish were good but kinda expensive. On the way back...the I noticed the normal SCREAM seemed to get louder. The closer I got to the house, it was almost unbearable...you really need ear plugs now.:puzzled::puzzled: When I got home I parked it outside the shop to let it cool off before putting it in the shed and noticed a puddle of oil about 2" round under it when I moved it into the shop. It smelled like gear oil. Got to looking...oil all over the rear wheel and tire...and some on the frame under the bike. Today I got a chance to tear it down to see what is going on...looks like it was leaking oil at the flange where the pumpkin connects to the drive shaft tube. Yep the seal on the drive shaft is toast but it was replaced not to long ago during a tire change. Pulled the pumpkin off and the cup where the drive shaft slips into seems very loose. Like maybe the outer pinion bearing is gone. It seems it has about 1/8" slack in it. I think on the drawings it is called the gear coupling. About how much slack should be in the Gear Coupling. I do not remember any slack there in the past but maybe I am wrong. I need somebody to tell me what they remember on their final drive. I already called a dealer and he said bring it...but wouldn't you know this would happen in the best time of the year to ride. HELP me out with some advice -
When you guys flip the axle over on the trailer to put it on top of the springs, do you still rest it on the flat part (open channel up) or the round shaft side( open channel side down as in manual on the spring? Weld plates on or just drill the shaft to align the spacing? thanks
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I managed to break the antenna on my '86 VR today right at the CB load (wide part). Anyone have the entire antenna shaft where it screws into the mount that they would part with for a reasonable amount? Thanks for your help.
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Friend took his new to him RSV in to get an oil leak checked out and was told that the shifter shaft had play in it and oil was leaking from the "wallowed" out area of the crankcase around the shifter shaft. I have never heard of this nor can I find any info on such a thing happening. Shop says it will be $6000 to fix because you have to replace the ENTIRE crankcase and basically rebuild it all. Assuming they are right, is there any repair for this? The bike shifts fine and is excellent otherwise. -
With a little time to spare before work today I decided to start the job to pull the final drive and lube the drive shaft. In a matter of two hours I was able to pull the tire, remove, clean, moly and reinstall the hub. Pull the final drive and drive shaft clean her up, moly it and reinstall it. I was pleasantly surprised how easy and quick it was. Guess I’ll be putting this job on the yearly to do list.
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OK, I'm sure this is nothing but......I found the attached fragement of metal in an area where I have been working on my 2nd Gen rear hub. I've done the following:- Remove hub and shaft from bike. Pulled shaft out of hub and regreased both ends, replace checking spring was in place. Remove hub gear wheel from hub after removing circlip and dust cover for regreasing. Now I'm sure this fragement has come from somewhere else as it is so clean, but just thought I'd check in case anyone hase see anything like it before from the rear end of one of these bikes. Its clearly broken at one end and has a tapering V groove on one side. I hope the pics are good enough for identification. All help gratefully recieved. Cheers
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Having searched the tech section, I just want to clarify something. Having greased the splines on the end of the drive shaft I've gone to insert it back in the drive shaft tube. After a little jiggle it went in and i was able to loosly fit the four acorn nuts prior to doing the alignment process as reccommended in the tech section. My question is (probably a dumb one) is, is it possible for the end of this shaft to miss its connnection with the UJ and simply lay in the bottom of the tube? I think its gone in but not sure. Cheers
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pulled the rear end and lubed everything from hub to drive shaft with moly paste. also got a new rear tire and replaced brake pads. I have put several hundred miles on since the work. Last night the wife and i were arriving at home when i noticed a "creak" somewhere in the rear end. It goes with the rotation of tire or shaft. Any thoughts? Did I miss something? Thanks for the help.
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Friend has a '07 Suzuki Boulevard, shaft drive. He removed rear wheel to get nail hole fixed, put back together driveshaft won't turn. Told him to pull back apart and make sure he got drive shaft in yoke,done, says the engine running put in gear let out on clutch can hear noise in rear of engine like something turning but driveshaft nor yoke is turning. What does he need to do? Any suggestions?:confused24:Thanks in advance.
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I have a vibration when going around 30-35 mph feels like the drive shaft has a shutter or the u-joint. What do you guys think? Any suggestions?
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Good Morning All, Last time I rode my 2005 RSTD, I noticed a vibration at higher speed. My RSTD has about 9830 miles on it. I have read several posts here about greasing the splines in the rear hub and the drive shaft. I would like to do this before a trip that I have scheduled for the 24th. Can any of you direct me to existing threads with step by step instructions on what must be removed to accomplish this? For instance, is it necessary to remove the rear fender and the exhaust header pipes? I am mechanically inclined, but I haven't ever removed the rear wheel on a shaft drive motorcycle before. Also, I have read threads where people have ruined seals trying to remove the drive shaft. I want the bike to be safe for this trip, but at the same time, I don't want to do anything stupid that will end up causing me to not be able to take the bike on the trip. So can any of you point me in the direction of some step by step instructions of this process? (Pictures would help if available.) Thanking You In Advance. Regards, Tony -
While removing my rear wheel to have a new tire put on, I decided to lube the drive shaft end that goes into the pumpkin. I have lubed the shaft end that went into the U-joint, but was never able to get the shaft out of the pumpkin end. The oil seal was stuck. I slide a mechanics pick around the oil seal and it came right out. However, I noticed the pinion was really loose. I could move it around - axially - by an 1/8 inch or so. Not good. Showed it to the mechanic at the local dealer and he agreed the nose bearing is likely shot. I typically replace the rear drive fluid every time I change the oil. The last several changes I noticed a good sized ball of shavings on the magnetic plug. Now I know where these shavings are coming from. Took the rear drive apart and the pinion nose bearing is shot. Unfortunately, the outer race is worn down so far there is not a shoulder to press against to remove it. Heated the race hosing with a butane torch and it tried to move it, but no go. The inner race on the pinion nose looks frosted (micro tearing of the metal, soon leading to full spalling). OK, bottom line - I need a rear pumpkin. Anyone have one available they would like to sell? Guess the KLR is going to see some additional miles over the next few weeks. RR
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Well, after servicing my bike, I've run across a potential issue. When I pulled the drive shaft out of the swingarm to check the upper splines, a coil of metal was wrapped around it. Looked like the coils that spin out of steel when it is drilled. I had a look up the drive shaft tunnel and all looked well...no leaks and everything in place...as far as I could tell. After all was back together, it seemed to be running just as it should...until the rumble started. The description is somewhat typical of what has been described before; quiet with power on, a low rumble on deceleration, somewhat quieter with the clutch in. Being the paranoid type...I'm going to have to discover what the hell this noise is. What I've done so far is slip the swingarm boot back to look at the yoke. The bolt is in place so that shaft isn't broken. There is no detectable in or out play in the output shaft. There is very little rotational play in the mesh with the drive gear, (as gauged by slowly turning the shaft and listening for the tiny click when the gears touch). Total slack in the drive system with the bike in first is about 2 inches, measured at the wheel. With the bike in neutral on the center stand, the rear wheel spins easily, without resistance or binding. When I roll the wheel forward by handd, (which dynamically puts the same forces on the system as deceleration), I can feel a slight rumble which feels like gears meshing somewhat roughly. It smooths out when rolling the wheel backwards. With a stethoscope, I pinned down that the rumble is coming from the pumpkin, not the middle shaft. So now I'm going to try a few things. Tonight I will loosen the 4 nuts holding the pumpkin to the swingarm and see if there is enough movement to realign the shaft a bit. If that fails, I will remove the pumpkin completely to check for play. (When I had the pumpkin off to service the rear end, I pulled the shaft out of the pumpkin. The seal came with the shaft, completely intact so it was reusable. The input shaft stayed with the pumpkin indicating that the shaft was also intact.) I'll basically have a good poke around and see what's what. I'm hoping for an easy fix but am prepared for tears and pouting. Attached are some pics of a strange bit of metal I found wound around the shaft when I pulled it from the swingarm. I have no idea where it's from....I'll have a better look when I'm in there again...unless it fixes itself then it will have to wait until the snow blows. -
I needed to grease the splines, so I also took the drive shaft out,,,, not a biggie,,, I done this before, even wrote on how to do it the easy way, without extra tools. Now it WON"T go in,,, it just won't go in,,, I mean it just won't engage. I can wiggle the u-joint, turn the U-joint, see the u-joint, get the shaft started into the u-joint, but it won't engage. Anybody have any ideas???????? 4 hours at this, and I'm a little frustrated.
