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Showing results for tags 'rotor'.
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I've got a question for those that have had their stators jump off the crankshaft when they've left the puller on overnight. When I started to pull mine, I loosened the attachment bolt several turns, then attached my puller with 100mm long bolts. I don't see how it could jump off--it still has the attachment bolt that'll stop it in 1/8" or so. You would have to remove the bolt completely for it to jump off, but what would you push on?? Of coures as of this morning when I left for work mine still hadn't come loose. Am I missing something?? Also, what is special about the PCW Racing puller that make it cost so much?? It says that it's guaranteed to pull the rotor first try. The only difference I see is that the bolts that you screw into the rotor have that piece on them that keeps them straight. Frank
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Does anyone have a suggestion as to why my rear brake rotor seems to be only making good contact with the outer half of the swept area? Rotor is new and the caliper recently rebuilt by one of the pros on this board. I have been underwhelmed by the braking action at the rear - it is worse than with the old, worn rotor, caliper and old rubber brake hoses!
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Will a First Gen MK 2 rotor fit a 1984? Thanks, Dave
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I don't post often because I'm so technically challenged but I figured it was a good time to post this as riding season is upon us (finally). Every since buying my 06 RSTD used I've been plagued by the brakes. The sqealing and the quish quish noise described in previous posts drove me crazy. It sounded like a bike that was ready for the scrap yard. Anyway, I had new pads put on this spring and same issue was back withing 40 miles. Having read this in a post from last year, last night I went out and soaked a rag in brake cleaner and spun each wheel while holding the rag on the rotor. On the front I put a soaked rag between the pad and rotor and had my wife apply light brake pressure while I spun the wheel. I then took the bike for a 50 mile ride and to my surprise it felt like a new bike. Hopefully it will last for a while and then I'll do it again. I was shocked at how black the rags got from the crud on the rotors. ride safe Greg:cool10:
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I'm in need for a rear rotor for an '86 to '93. I've got the rear wheel off and would like to get one asap so I can enjoy life again. Thanks, Thanks, Thanks!!!!!
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Anyone have a lead on obtaining a rear rotor for 1988 venture? -
This maybe a simplistic question but I have to ask. I have been working on putting a 1988 venture back on the road after some neglect. My question is: the rear rotor is a two piece design with bolts/studs holding the outer and inner ring together, does the ring normally have play or should it be locked down? The rotor is in good condition no nicks or excessive wear----so is this normal or another piece to replace.. Please let me know...
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Ohh - Probably a dee dee dee question - I pulled my front wheel expressly to remove the * unsightly * rotor covers from my otherwise lovely RSTD. For some reason I can't for the life of me find the wrench to fit those bolts. My trusty metric hex set says no! What up? It's not Torx is it? Am I hallucinating? -
Does anyone know where I could possibly lay my hands on a 2008 LEFT engine guard? Used preferably (cheaper) and where in Canada (or shipped to Canada) can I find a rear rotor for a 2006 Midnight? The extremely few places I've found won't ship to Canada.. Seems the steel might violate some kind of HLS or something.. Cheers
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Would anyone know if rotor covers off of an '86 venture would fit an 84'? Thanks in advance
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More redneck engineering questions for you guys. Actually, for anyone that may have tried to or done this. I need (want) a spare rear wheel for my '07 Venture. Even with used wheels I'm finding they are way expensive. But I can find VMax wheels for almost nothing. Looking at photos, OTHER THAN THE WHEEL STYLE, it LOOKS like the only difference is the rear brake rotor mounting is a different bolt circle diameter. So, for anyone that has tried it... will it work if I get a VMax rotor? Is the spacing correct? Or will I have to let the moths out of the wallet?
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RE: help me out of this mess Post earlier- 87 Venture Royale with pulsating brakes and washer questions- Got my new brake pads today, and then I spent time aligning the caliper housing. I swear that aluminum bracket was cantered a few degrees off of perpendicular to the axle. I threaded a large carraige bolt through it and used "my little freind" (see pic). A few whacks clearly nudged it. I wonder how it got bent. Then i had to only shim the back bolt with one thin washer. Everything looks square, and the pads are even and the rotor is tracking very close to center front and back. I can't test drive it of course until my new throttle cables arrive, but the rotor is no longer hanging anywhere in the rotation of the wheel. [ATTACH]35449[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]35450[/ATTACH]
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How much would you pay far a complete rear brake job ---- rotor pistons and seals and the labor to do it
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Just spent an all nighter on a friends 85VR. The equalizer for the front & rear break has been removed,the 2 front breaks opperate from the front resavour. The back break opperates from the foot pedal. PROBLEM is no rear break... 1 resivour is full of fluid 2 caliper has been blead till only fluid/no air 3 pistons are not ceased 4 rotor cleaned with break cleaner 5 lots of pressure at peddle while bleeding 6 new pads Dont know what else to look at, any ideas? :canada:
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Anyone have experience in silencing the front break squeak. I have new pads. Should the rotor be turned like a car's?.
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I have a second Gen Bike. The right front rotor is warped as I get a vibration when I use the front hand brake. I verified this by lifting the bike up and spinning the front tire. The rotor can be heard rubbing the brake pads at one area. Now for the question. I s there a way of unwarping the rotor or do you have to replace it? If it has to be replaced where is the best place to get one? And yes my wife says I am definatly warped. She says I landed on my head one to many times when I was still on active duty. AIRBORNE ALL the WAY:2133:
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Anyone have a rear rotor for my 86 that they want to sell? Mine is kaput!
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So I find myself having a few rear brake problems. I went to breakingparts and got both of my tires changed last week and found that the rear pads were gone, the inside was metal to metal. Earlier that day I had started to notice some feedback when applying the rear brake. I never thought the rear pads would be gone already because they only had 6000 miles on them. When we pulled the rear wheel, we found that the rotor was grooved. When I got home, I put on an old set of pads that should have several thousand miles left in them until I could get to the stealer and get a new set. I got the new set and put them on Monday and the brakes acted fine since then, so I thought. Yesterday I was riding on the interstate (75-80 mph) and noticed that 'burning brakes smell' and wondered if it was me. When I stopped I did not detect the smell near the rear wheel, but did find that that the rotor was hot. I called cyclebrakes.com today and have ordered a new rotor and new pads. When I talked to them, they seemed to think that my caliper may need to be rebuilt. They said that if the caliper needed to be rebuilt, that I would pretty quickly ruin the new rotor and pads. They also said that there was not a rebuild kit yet for a 2nd gen which I guess means just getting a whole new one from mama yama. Any thoughts or suggestions on potential problems that could be causing this and the rebuilding of the caliper idea would be appreciated. OHHHHH, and BTW we greased the splines while we had the wheel off and they were DRY. The last place I got a rear tire changed didn't grease the splines, but for some reason found it necessary to change the rear gear oil.
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Ok.....here I am again. In the middle of attempting to install Buckeyes upgrade stator. In pretty good shape so far. All the bolts came out fine from the cases and the only bolts that gave me grief were the retaining clip bolts on the wiring harness for the stator and the pick up coil on the inside of the case. Got that done. God Bless Dremel! The old stator tested fine and all the leads test equal volts but the top of the stator is black and melted. Good time for the change. While I'm in there I want to take a look at the starter engage clutch and install the stator cooling kit. I was surprised it didn't have one but I had one on the self. So with that said here is where I'm at. THE BOLT! The 19mm rotor bolt is one tough cookie. Been at it for a 1/2 hour working on it with a 1/2 drive impact wrench. Added a little heat, not much, with a propane torch and still no movement. I'm open for suggestion here. How hot can I go or should I? I really want to get to the starter clutch and get the cooling kit installed but I got to get past this danged bolt. Thanks Mike -
I've decided to sell the chrome rotor covers I have and one set of caliper covers once I decide which set I want to keep. Rotor covers have had lights removed and are slightly scratched from someone trying to clean them up. Just never got around to installing them. Got to decide if I want to keep original Ventureline caliper covers or aftermarket ones I currently have on the bike. Will post pictures as soon as I can find my camera. -
At least until this Dunlop Elite 3 wears out. I bought a used wheel off ebay. They didn't show the tire very well and I didn't care because I wanted the wheel and rotor. Well, lo and behold, it shows up today and the tire looks almost new. I'll run this tire off until it's gone and come back. I can't turn down a free tire. I bought the wheel, rotor and tire for 142 shipped. Now tire changes can be done at my convenience and faster. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm37.l1313%26satitle%3D400005069327%26category0%3D%26fvi%3D1&item=400005069327&viewitem=
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Does anyone have one of the shouldered spacers that is required for the installation of the chrome rotor covers?
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Front brakes on my 89 are due for replacement. I'd like to beef them up. I've always thought they were a little weak. I don't want to put stainless steel lines on as that seems a little expensive. Are there brake pads that are better than others like from Buckeye for instance? Also, my mechanic tells me that when he has test driven it and brakes, particularly with just the right hand brake, there is a surging uneven braking action. I have felt this too. He says that it is because the rotor may be warped. I don't want to buy a rotor but would buy a used one. Looks like they go for about $50 plus s&h. Any ideas? Iowa Guy
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I have the NEW rotor specs for 83 venture but would like to know the discard specs for the rotors. ( if there is discard specs ). If too thin I want to replace them.
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My present rotor is warped so I'm looking for a good unwarped rear rotor for my 86VR...If you have one for sale let me know ASAP....thanks Bob Martorana email bobcat04@earthlink.net Reno, Nv
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