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Showing results for tags 'replace'.
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Can anyone inform me of which " xenon or hid bulb to install in my 03 venture..i dont want to replace the housing ..just the bulb on my headlight and passing lamps...thanks.
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Am going to put a set of RK mufflers on my 06 RSTD. I realize it would definitely, probably, maybe, be easier to pull the bags off to replace them. Question is, , ,it is that much easier, , , , , , worth all the trouble pulling and replacing the bags. . . . . ..
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My '87 VR clutch is starting to slip when I apply too much throttle in top gear. I guess I'll have to replace the friction plates soon. What brand of plates do you recommend ? Jim O'D........ Australia:confused24:
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the side stand switch doesnt actuall "kill" the bike anymore. should i replace it? i cannot seem to find a new one. could it be something else????
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After 115000km my cruse control was not working on further investigation I discovered that my clutch handle has a slight movement in worn is there a way to fix it or do i have to replace it thanks
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I want to replace my seat, and am impressed with the Ultimate. Trouble is, that means I have to replace the passenger seat and my wife is not one for change, she wants to know if anyone has any experience with the passenger seat. She finds no problem with the stock seat and says it is the right thickness ( GEEEZ) but other than width I can't find anything about how thick the dang thing is. I told her Ultimate offers a trial and her response was I know you need a new seat so if you are happy with yours that means I have to switch. Good grief anybody out there have any experience with the passenger seat?
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Does anyone have a front pillow tuffed seat laying around from a RSV they want to get rid of for a decent price, mine is coming apart and I dont want to replace it with something differant and I cant afford to have it recovered right now.
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So you just acquired an old Venture/Venture Royale. Stop right there Mister! Unless you heard it running, and even if you did, there are things you need to know before it travels another 10 yards, unless you are pushing it. The 1983-93 Ventures are among the most reliable and best handling Full Dress Tourers of their era. There are, however, things to know and do if you want to get anywhere close to the legendary 250k miles on it. The Venture, especially the earlier 1200 had very few real issues, but there are two things to check before you proceed. The first is the rear subframe that had a nasty habit of cracking under stress. Check all around the rear suspension, and clean off the oily bits so you can assure yourself this is not a problem with the one you have. The later models do not have this problem. Second gear is weak too on those bikes. If you rode it and it jumped out of second under acceleration, then yours is suffering. You have two choices. You can use the info on this site and in the Manual to rebuild the transmission, or you can change straight from first to third and forget about it. Other than that, any foibles are minor and are associated more with age than anything else. Before you even shell out the hard-earned there are a number of things easily checkable. Good plastic parts are rare and expensive. Repairing cracks in fairings, replacing broken tabs isn’t difficult, but it is time-consuming and should be reflected in the price. The engines are pretty bullet-proof. Like with cars, it is the bodywork that sells these bikes and top dollar should only ever be paid for one with a fairing and cases that are close to perfect. There is lots of pain doing it any other way. If the bike comes with lots of verifiable service history then the mileage is irrelevant. If it doesn’t then you need to do some work before it runs. You can check that the coolant is topped up and clean before you buy. If it is low, or gone, or brown then you have a neglected pile of iron, and bid accordingly. Be aware that coolant leaks can all be fixed, at a price. I know this because mine leaked coolant everywhere, and it cost me to fix it. O-rings at $3 apiece are a minor purchase, until you start counting just how many of them there are! If the cooling system is in good order then the fan will fully control the temperature within the green zone in any weather, at a standstill. Some early bikes had poorly calibrated temp. gauges and they climb nearly to the red, but they should never actually get there. If the gauge reaches the red zone, then a cooling system rebuild will be needed (and some of it should be done anyway). Draining, flushing, cleaning out the radiator and physically cleaning the smaller pipes is a must. Sediment gathers there and flushing won’t shift it. Once that is done, regularly changing the coolant and flushing will keep it clean. Now we can keep it cool, we can think about getting it hot. Before that the oil and filter need changing, and the air filter needs cleaning and/or replacing. K&N make one which can be had for around $50 with careful shopping. You will never need another. If your bike came with one, have a beer to celebrate. When you change the oil for the first time, what comes out will tell you much about the bike’s history. Firstly, about three quarts should come out! It should not be black nor have any metal bits in it. Any “foam” … like mayo, around the filler, filter or anywhere else tells you that water is going where no water should ever go. Waterpump shaft seals, headgaskets and the frail cylinder head connectors can all leak and cause this. About those plastic pipe connectors. There are two of them. They do not come out in one piece and are about $20 each. Each has three of the aforementioned o-rings. Do the math. So the oil should be plentiful, free of slivery streaks and wrist pin clips, and dark but not too black. It should not have gasoline in it either (rare). If it is like that then change the filter and fill it up. Do not overfill it. About halfway up the sight glass is plenty. Anymore and it will be spraying through the breather and all over your beautiful new air filter. Have another beer, you have a good motor. Leaks around the valve covers are common and not a big issue. Oil pouring out is a big issue. The original gaskets were poor but better replacements can be easily sourced. If any of the sixteen bolts holding the covers down is leaking, replace the rubber. If you try to tighten them down to fix a leak you will, over time, simply make it worse. If you are going to replace these gaskets then that is a good time to check the valve clearances. If they are uneven, especially if they are “tight”, then they need adjusting. This is fiddly but not hard and you can borrow the tool from members here. Replace the plugs and, if the plug wires are original, remove the caps and snip ¼” off the wire. Check the cap resistance. It should be 10k Ohms. Trying to fix dodgy caps is fraught with difficulties. I would get new ones. Moving on to the fuel supply. There is a hard to get to filter behind the fuel pump on the lower left of the bike. Change it. Cut the old one open and inspect the contents. A little bit of brown deposit is to be expected, but brown sludge or obvious rust means that the tank is suffering. Most of the tank can be cleaned on the bike there is enough access through the various ports. You did look down the filler for heavy rusting before you brought it home? It takes about five minutes to get the tank off my Triple, and about four hours (if you know what you are doing) to get the tank off the Venture. The petcock is likely to be stiff. Move it to “reserve” and leave it there. Use the gas gauge which is accurate, and carry a small MSR Fuel Bottle in the side case. That will get you a few miles if you run out. Be aware that leaking petcocks are a nightmare. Rebuilding one with new filters and seals will cost around $40. A new one can be had from about $54 up to $75, depending on where you buy. While you are down there, the gas pipe has a very sharp bend and could be quite close to needing replacing. While you were doing all of that charge the battery. If it looks old it probably is. Have it load tested or replace it. So …. We have fresh oil, fresh gas, new plugs and no obvious signs of distress. The coolant is clean and topped off and the battery charged. Turn the key, wait a couple of seconds and hit the starter. Unless it’s cold you will need little or no choke. Leave the throttle completely alone until the engine is running. Run the engine for no more than fifteen seconds then shut it off. Now feel each of the exhaust headers, carefully. They should all be warm. If one or more remains cold then the respective cylinder(s) are not firing. If they are all warm, then start it up again. Go quickly around the bike as it warms up looking for anything amiss. What you do not want to see are oil, fuel or coolant leaks. There will be a bit of smoke as it warms, but not much. There should be none from the exhaust. While we are on the exhaust …. One in poor shape will cost. Just the gaskets in the system add up to a hefty $100 if you need to replace them all. The collector can rot out, and it can rattle. The rattle can be ignored or fixed later. If the joints around the collector leak then it will need fixing. This is one to check before you buy because it’s a good negotiating point. Check out all the electrical components while it is warming up. Lights, flashers, horn etc. With luck they all work and the motor will warm until the fan cuts in. Let it cycle a couple of times before you shut it down. Check again for leaks. Yeah, I know you want to ride it but you can’t yet. Have a beer. We have checked that it will go but we haven’t ensured that it will stop. Tires should be less than ten years old (they have a date code) and free of any cracking. You are pushing 800lbs down the road on them and they need to be good. It goes without saying that they should have sufficient tread. Check the brake pads for thickness and freedom from oil. If the fork seals have blown then fork oil easily makes it onto the calipers. It’s obvious and needs fixing before you ride. Check rotors for thickness and that they are not binding. There should be no signs of brake fluid leaking anywhere, and the fluid should be changed. Check that the steering bearings are not obviously worn. While we are on the subject of hydraulic fluid, change the clutch fluid too J Now you can go for a ride. Just a few careful miles is enough. Check that the handling is not too strange … it should track true and not meander. The suspension should be compliant and not induce nausea causing your lunch to end up all over the instruments. The brakes should stop you in a straight line and the gears shift fairly smoothly. If your ride checks out okay and it doesn’t leak all over the driveway when you get back, then you have the makings of a great motorcycle so … Have a beer to celebrate. There is a whole bunch of stuff not included here. There are some minor fixes that are likely to be needed to things like the starter motor and electrical items. There is lots of information on the site to help. If you fell at any of the hurdles above, then there is an issue that needs resolving. All I tried to do here was go through a routine that would get you up and running safely. Above all, have fun, and lots of beer but not before a ride. Others will chip in to add stuff I missed, and correct mistakes I made but I hope this helps. -
Has anybody replaced the passenger headset connection? I bought the Bike used so don't know but it looks like it got caught in the rear wheel and was pulled off. I Generally work on my own stuff but this time I took it to the Stealer for repair. After taking it to them I think I know more than they do. OK here is my question.... To replace this cord do you have to replace the passenger volume control and CB talk button or does it unplug before or at the button controls? I unpluged the connection on top of the rear fender and it works to that point. thanks in advance for any help. -
Malibu Headlamp Replacement Rob Spiegel, Senior Editor, Automation & Control 11/23/2011 GM seemed to get a lot of things right when it introduced the new Generation 7 Chevy Malibu in 2008. I got one of the higher-end models with a six-cylinder engine and a very smooth shifting six-speed automatic transmission. I was generally happy with the car until a headlamp bulb burned out. I went to the local auto parts store and bought a replacement bulb for about $12. Then I popped the hood and found that I couldn't get to the back of the headlight assembly. The owner's manual was no help at all -- its advice was to consult the dealer for bulb replacements. A quick Internet search revealed the awful truth: To replace the headlight bulb, you needed to remove the front bumper (among other parts). The dealer confirmed this and quoted $150 labor to replace one bulb. The steps needed to replace the headlight bulb are as follows: Open the hood and remove the plastic cover above the radiator (14 screws). Jack up the car and remove the wheel (five lug nuts). Remove the wheel-well liner (15 screws and pop-rivets). This exposes two bolts that hold the bumper in place; remove these bolts and slide off the end of the bumper. Now, you can reach the three bolts that hold in the headlight assembly; remove the headlight assembly and replace the bulb. Replace everything (29 screws, nuts, bolts, and pop-rivets). If you think you might as well replace both lamps while you're at it, you'll still have to remove the other front wheel, wheel-well liner, the other side of the bumper, and the other headlight assembly (25 additional fasteners). In my Toyota Camry, I could replace both headlight bulbs in less time than it takes to read this paragraph -- without needing a single tool. Just open the hood, twist the bulb socket a quarter turn to remove it, and plug in the new bulb. What's next? Will we have to remove the dashboard to change the oil? Remove the rear seats every time we get gas? I can't believe that there wasn't a way to provide easier access to parts that require replacement many times over the life of a car. Maybe the monkeys who designed the car don't think it's going to last very long?
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Hi all, Today I picked up an 84 Venture Royale with 14K miles. Cosmetically she's a little rough so I will need to replace some things & add some bling. Is there a parts interchange manual published for this bike? Basically I need to replace some side panels & add some of the dress up trim. What years will be a direct bolt on to my 84? My immediate need is to replace the seat. I assume an 83 would fit, what others can directly replace mine? I appreciate any help especially on the seat. Thanks
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I have a Leatherman Wave Multitool and like to carry the two tool carriers with it on my belt. When I ride I always have it with me. Well, the sheath is wearing out and I am looking to replace it. Anyone have recommendations on what they have found to be good sheaths for this multitool? Iowa Guy
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Do these covers do anything, or are they just for show? Mine are oxidized & I want to polish & paint them. If I take them off to redo them I won't have to replace any gaskets or cause a leak?
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I seem to go thru garbage disposal, one about every 3 years. How often do you replace your garbage disposal?
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OK, I noticed today that my clutch started slipping , I have not had an issue with it since I changed the clutch spring and pressuere plate to a Barnett. I changed the oil yesterday and noticed the slipping today in 5th when I roll back on the throttle pretty hard. I use yamalube oil so that shouldn't have anything to do with it. The bike has 64,000 miles. Is it time to replace the clutch or could it be something else? I am going to go out and change the fluid now which I do not believe has anything to do with it but you never know. I changed it at around 46,000. Anyway do I need to just replace the friction plates or what do you all suggest. I ride 2 up most the time but am not a hard rider. I do pull a trailer 2-3 times a year on vacations for a week at a time. Thanks for your suggestions ps I ride around 32,000 miles a year and I have had the bike for 16 months
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I noticed that the rubber hoses that connects the YICS to the engine are quite soft! They really flexes a lot on idle. Is it a good idea to replace then with stiffer new hoses? -
I have an '83 venture that has the left hand muffler end piece just about rusted through. Is it possible to just replace end caps or is it necessary to replace entire muffler? What would bst and easiest replacement be. (I do not really want to increase Db level). I have Jardines on my '90 RSV which are a bit loud, but seem to have misplaced them OEM'S !!
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does anyone have a stock clutch spring laying around from an upgrade? I have a friend who wants to remove the heavier spring and replace with a stock one.
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Front tire: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/Ggerg1186/DSC02673.jpg Rear tire: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/Ggerg1186/DSC02674.jpg Both tires were replaced 7000 miles ago. I suppose it's time to replace them. Anyone wants the front tire the center still has plenty of tread left. -
I read a recent thread about using car tires for the rear of their gold wings........Will this work on a 2004 Yamaha RS Venture? And why would I do this. I will be needing to replace my tires shortly and just want to know. Okay, I know someone out there has some experience with this; help me out.
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I have used them on the two VTX's I have owned and beyond the ability to remove, clean and recharge them, I didn't find any real benefit. I didn't do any testing of fuel savings due to it's insignificance. So does anyone have any real reason to use them with the exception of never having to replace them? I have found them on ebay for $65, has anyone found them cheaper? BTW I posted this in the RSTD tech form because I have an 07 RSTD, I say this because I don't know if the Venture is different.
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I need to replace my font and lower tubes on my '87. Anyone know where I could get some and what other years will fit? Thanks
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Last week, I replace a bad coil on my RSV. It was the right rear (number 3) coil. I was talking to a couple of other RSV owners today and they commented that everybody they know who has had to replace a coil it has been the number 3 coil. If you have replace a coil, which one was it that was bad? I'm just wondering if there is a pattern here and if so, why the number 3 is going bad. -
So, preparing for a nice 90 minute ride to camp, checked the air pressure on the front and after removing the tire gauge, whoosh! All the air came rushing out. Much to my dismay, the whole stem came out too. Guess it's time to replace the whole valve stem with something other than rubber? Glad this happened in the garage though and not on the road.
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I want to replace the exhuast on my 1983 Venture. I have looked on ebay and have not found what I am looking for. Where can I find aftermarket exhausts
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