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Showing results for tags 'replace'.
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Hey guys! I need to replace my carb intake manifolds because they are cracked. I believe i have found the part, but im stupid with part numbers and all of that, so is this correct? 4XY-13586-01-00 YAMAHA JOINT, CARBURETOR 1
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On my last road trip, my right lower wind deflector bracket broke on my 99 RSV. I didn't realize how well they work until I had to go without them. I've tried brazing and welding and now I am ready to just replace it. Does anyone have one laying around that you would be willing to part with or know where I can get one other than the Yamadealer.
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I have a new rear shock on order and need to find someone who has replaced thiers to get tips and pointers on how to replace it. What to remove and what not to remove. Any help would be great. John
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Intereted in someone ho has triked their 2nd gen venture. My shoc has started dripping a little oil so i know it is not long before i need to replace it. If you have one let me know. Thanks
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Best thing since sliced bread. Took longer to installed the bleeders then to do the job. Here are a couple pics of how bad my master clutch looked like. Ended up having to use paper towels and Q-tips to clean the sludge out of there. the speed bleeders made this so easy to do. It also helps if your remove the number one cyl fin to replace the bleeder. Last change was seven years ago. (way to long) With the speed bleeders I will change once a year from now on. [ATTACH]72443[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]72444[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]72445[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]72446[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]72447[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]72448[/ATTACH]
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Is this battery still the best choice? The connector looks like a side mount. My OEM is a top mount. I can get one locally from East Penn for $165cdn. I need to replace my battery and research on here seems to point to the Deka as the best choice, mind you most of the info is a few years old. Thanks.
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Does anyone have a CB for a first gen they don't need. I need one to replace a bad one.
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Our headsets have been intermittant (at best) for some time now...yesterday's ride they were unusable. What is the best way to have them repaired...take to dealer, or where? Or, should we just replace them...if so, with what?
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I am want to replace the antenna. It has a cb antenna on it(its big and white) and want to put one like on the goldwings. ive look at a goldwing today and it looks like i will have to change the mount and the cable. my bike does not have a cb. and it has a jvc cassett radio. i am wanting to replace it to. any pointers are leads would be great.
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Today I picked up DenDen's 83 Standard. Some folks here know how well he took care of this bike. He wanted to part ways with the bike since he no longer rides so he made me a deal I couldn't refuse. There's some work to be done of course since it hasn't been on the road in about 4 years. maybe more, but that bike is sure in very good shape for a 29 year old. There's no broken plastic except for one tab on a side panel which should be easy to fix since the tab is there. Mechanically I'll need to fix a water leak somewhere below the radiator, rebuild the forks, & either rebuild the rear master cylinder or replace it, & replace a 8 year old battery. As far as I know at this point those are the things needing attention. Got a few extra parts he tossed in as well. I don't expect to put it on the road till spring so during the next few months & winter I'll be going over this bike bringing the old girl back to pristine condition once again. Larry
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Can someone tell me if its ok to replace my grips with regular grips and take the weights off what will happen
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I've checked the Classifieds, and didn't find anything there, but does anyone know of a good site to check for replacement lower wind deflectors? On my recent trip to DC, one of the brackets broke and I lost one somewhere along the line, and need to replace it, but given the condition of the other one, I figure I'd replace both. I can get the replacement mounting bracket fairly cheap from Yamaha, but the deflectors are a little pricy. Thanks.
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My speedo and rpm gauge lenses are hazy and there is a crack in the rpm gauge. Is there a way to replace the clear plastic lenses without replacing the whole gauge unit?
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I need to replace my engine guards and saddlebag guards. I can't find the right part numbers. All I can find is beat-up take-offs. I'd prefer to not replace crash-damaged parts with scraped up guards. What other options do I have? Baron Customs? Someone triked a bike and has new saddlebag guards? Ideas? Dave
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How do you remove the cover for the rear speakers...imm trying to replace them!
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Brake Pad Replacement
utadventure posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I replaced tires today on my '86 and need to do brakes next. This is my question. Do you replace the pads with the calipers in place or do you remove them from the mount/rotors? Dave -
Can anyone inform me of which " xenon or hid bulb to install in my 03 venture..i dont want to replace the housing ..just the bulb on my headlight and passing lamps...thanks.
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Am going to put a set of RK mufflers on my 06 RSTD. I realize it would definitely, probably, maybe, be easier to pull the bags off to replace them. Question is, , ,it is that much easier, , , , , , worth all the trouble pulling and replacing the bags. . . . . ..
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the side stand switch doesnt actuall "kill" the bike anymore. should i replace it? i cannot seem to find a new one. could it be something else????
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My '87 VR clutch is starting to slip when I apply too much throttle in top gear. I guess I'll have to replace the friction plates soon. What brand of plates do you recommend ? Jim O'D........ Australia:confused24:
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After 115000km my cruse control was not working on further investigation I discovered that my clutch handle has a slight movement in worn is there a way to fix it or do i have to replace it thanks
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I want to replace my seat, and am impressed with the Ultimate. Trouble is, that means I have to replace the passenger seat and my wife is not one for change, she wants to know if anyone has any experience with the passenger seat. She finds no problem with the stock seat and says it is the right thickness ( GEEEZ) but other than width I can't find anything about how thick the dang thing is. I told her Ultimate offers a trial and her response was I know you need a new seat so if you are happy with yours that means I have to switch. Good grief anybody out there have any experience with the passenger seat?
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Does anyone have a front pillow tuffed seat laying around from a RSV they want to get rid of for a decent price, mine is coming apart and I dont want to replace it with something differant and I cant afford to have it recovered right now.
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Has anybody replaced the passenger headset connection? I bought the Bike used so don't know but it looks like it got caught in the rear wheel and was pulled off. I Generally work on my own stuff but this time I took it to the Stealer for repair. After taking it to them I think I know more than they do. OK here is my question.... To replace this cord do you have to replace the passenger volume control and CB talk button or does it unplug before or at the button controls? I unpluged the connection on top of the rear fender and it works to that point. thanks in advance for any help. -
So you just acquired an old Venture/Venture Royale. Stop right there Mister! Unless you heard it running, and even if you did, there are things you need to know before it travels another 10 yards, unless you are pushing it. The 1983-93 Ventures are among the most reliable and best handling Full Dress Tourers of their era. There are, however, things to know and do if you want to get anywhere close to the legendary 250k miles on it. The Venture, especially the earlier 1200 had very few real issues, but there are two things to check before you proceed. The first is the rear subframe that had a nasty habit of cracking under stress. Check all around the rear suspension, and clean off the oily bits so you can assure yourself this is not a problem with the one you have. The later models do not have this problem. Second gear is weak too on those bikes. If you rode it and it jumped out of second under acceleration, then yours is suffering. You have two choices. You can use the info on this site and in the Manual to rebuild the transmission, or you can change straight from first to third and forget about it. Other than that, any foibles are minor and are associated more with age than anything else. Before you even shell out the hard-earned there are a number of things easily checkable. Good plastic parts are rare and expensive. Repairing cracks in fairings, replacing broken tabs isn’t difficult, but it is time-consuming and should be reflected in the price. The engines are pretty bullet-proof. Like with cars, it is the bodywork that sells these bikes and top dollar should only ever be paid for one with a fairing and cases that are close to perfect. There is lots of pain doing it any other way. If the bike comes with lots of verifiable service history then the mileage is irrelevant. If it doesn’t then you need to do some work before it runs. You can check that the coolant is topped up and clean before you buy. If it is low, or gone, or brown then you have a neglected pile of iron, and bid accordingly. Be aware that coolant leaks can all be fixed, at a price. I know this because mine leaked coolant everywhere, and it cost me to fix it. O-rings at $3 apiece are a minor purchase, until you start counting just how many of them there are! If the cooling system is in good order then the fan will fully control the temperature within the green zone in any weather, at a standstill. Some early bikes had poorly calibrated temp. gauges and they climb nearly to the red, but they should never actually get there. If the gauge reaches the red zone, then a cooling system rebuild will be needed (and some of it should be done anyway). Draining, flushing, cleaning out the radiator and physically cleaning the smaller pipes is a must. Sediment gathers there and flushing won’t shift it. Once that is done, regularly changing the coolant and flushing will keep it clean. Now we can keep it cool, we can think about getting it hot. Before that the oil and filter need changing, and the air filter needs cleaning and/or replacing. K&N make one which can be had for around $50 with careful shopping. You will never need another. If your bike came with one, have a beer to celebrate. When you change the oil for the first time, what comes out will tell you much about the bike’s history. Firstly, about three quarts should come out! It should not be black nor have any metal bits in it. Any “foam” … like mayo, around the filler, filter or anywhere else tells you that water is going where no water should ever go. Waterpump shaft seals, headgaskets and the frail cylinder head connectors can all leak and cause this. About those plastic pipe connectors. There are two of them. They do not come out in one piece and are about $20 each. Each has three of the aforementioned o-rings. Do the math. So the oil should be plentiful, free of slivery streaks and wrist pin clips, and dark but not too black. It should not have gasoline in it either (rare). If it is like that then change the filter and fill it up. Do not overfill it. About halfway up the sight glass is plenty. Anymore and it will be spraying through the breather and all over your beautiful new air filter. Have another beer, you have a good motor. Leaks around the valve covers are common and not a big issue. Oil pouring out is a big issue. The original gaskets were poor but better replacements can be easily sourced. If any of the sixteen bolts holding the covers down is leaking, replace the rubber. If you try to tighten them down to fix a leak you will, over time, simply make it worse. If you are going to replace these gaskets then that is a good time to check the valve clearances. If they are uneven, especially if they are “tight”, then they need adjusting. This is fiddly but not hard and you can borrow the tool from members here. Replace the plugs and, if the plug wires are original, remove the caps and snip ¼” off the wire. Check the cap resistance. It should be 10k Ohms. Trying to fix dodgy caps is fraught with difficulties. I would get new ones. Moving on to the fuel supply. There is a hard to get to filter behind the fuel pump on the lower left of the bike. Change it. Cut the old one open and inspect the contents. A little bit of brown deposit is to be expected, but brown sludge or obvious rust means that the tank is suffering. Most of the tank can be cleaned on the bike there is enough access through the various ports. You did look down the filler for heavy rusting before you brought it home? It takes about five minutes to get the tank off my Triple, and about four hours (if you know what you are doing) to get the tank off the Venture. The petcock is likely to be stiff. Move it to “reserve” and leave it there. Use the gas gauge which is accurate, and carry a small MSR Fuel Bottle in the side case. That will get you a few miles if you run out. Be aware that leaking petcocks are a nightmare. Rebuilding one with new filters and seals will cost around $40. A new one can be had from about $54 up to $75, depending on where you buy. While you are down there, the gas pipe has a very sharp bend and could be quite close to needing replacing. While you were doing all of that charge the battery. If it looks old it probably is. Have it load tested or replace it. So …. We have fresh oil, fresh gas, new plugs and no obvious signs of distress. The coolant is clean and topped off and the battery charged. Turn the key, wait a couple of seconds and hit the starter. Unless it’s cold you will need little or no choke. Leave the throttle completely alone until the engine is running. Run the engine for no more than fifteen seconds then shut it off. Now feel each of the exhaust headers, carefully. They should all be warm. If one or more remains cold then the respective cylinder(s) are not firing. If they are all warm, then start it up again. Go quickly around the bike as it warms up looking for anything amiss. What you do not want to see are oil, fuel or coolant leaks. There will be a bit of smoke as it warms, but not much. There should be none from the exhaust. While we are on the exhaust …. One in poor shape will cost. Just the gaskets in the system add up to a hefty $100 if you need to replace them all. The collector can rot out, and it can rattle. The rattle can be ignored or fixed later. If the joints around the collector leak then it will need fixing. This is one to check before you buy because it’s a good negotiating point. Check out all the electrical components while it is warming up. Lights, flashers, horn etc. With luck they all work and the motor will warm until the fan cuts in. Let it cycle a couple of times before you shut it down. Check again for leaks. Yeah, I know you want to ride it but you can’t yet. Have a beer. We have checked that it will go but we haven’t ensured that it will stop. Tires should be less than ten years old (they have a date code) and free of any cracking. You are pushing 800lbs down the road on them and they need to be good. It goes without saying that they should have sufficient tread. Check the brake pads for thickness and freedom from oil. If the fork seals have blown then fork oil easily makes it onto the calipers. It’s obvious and needs fixing before you ride. Check rotors for thickness and that they are not binding. There should be no signs of brake fluid leaking anywhere, and the fluid should be changed. Check that the steering bearings are not obviously worn. While we are on the subject of hydraulic fluid, change the clutch fluid too J Now you can go for a ride. Just a few careful miles is enough. Check that the handling is not too strange … it should track true and not meander. The suspension should be compliant and not induce nausea causing your lunch to end up all over the instruments. The brakes should stop you in a straight line and the gears shift fairly smoothly. If your ride checks out okay and it doesn’t leak all over the driveway when you get back, then you have the makings of a great motorcycle so … Have a beer to celebrate. There is a whole bunch of stuff not included here. There are some minor fixes that are likely to be needed to things like the starter motor and electrical items. There is lots of information on the site to help. If you fell at any of the hurdles above, then there is an issue that needs resolving. All I tried to do here was go through a routine that would get you up and running safely. Above all, have fun, and lots of beer but not before a ride. Others will chip in to add stuff I missed, and correct mistakes I made but I hope this helps.
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