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Malibu Headlamp Replacement Rob Spiegel, Senior Editor, Automation & Control 11/23/2011 GM seemed to get a lot of things right when it introduced the new Generation 7 Chevy Malibu in 2008. I got one of the higher-end models with a six-cylinder engine and a very smooth shifting six-speed automatic transmission. I was generally happy with the car until a headlamp bulb burned out. I went to the local auto parts store and bought a replacement bulb for about $12. Then I popped the hood and found that I couldn't get to the back of the headlight assembly. The owner's manual was no help at all -- its advice was to consult the dealer for bulb replacements. A quick Internet search revealed the awful truth: To replace the headlight bulb, you needed to remove the front bumper (among other parts). The dealer confirmed this and quoted $150 labor to replace one bulb. The steps needed to replace the headlight bulb are as follows: Open the hood and remove the plastic cover above the radiator (14 screws). Jack up the car and remove the wheel (five lug nuts). Remove the wheel-well liner (15 screws and pop-rivets). This exposes two bolts that hold the bumper in place; remove these bolts and slide off the end of the bumper. Now, you can reach the three bolts that hold in the headlight assembly; remove the headlight assembly and replace the bulb. Replace everything (29 screws, nuts, bolts, and pop-rivets). If you think you might as well replace both lamps while you're at it, you'll still have to remove the other front wheel, wheel-well liner, the other side of the bumper, and the other headlight assembly (25 additional fasteners). In my Toyota Camry, I could replace both headlight bulbs in less time than it takes to read this paragraph -- without needing a single tool. Just open the hood, twist the bulb socket a quarter turn to remove it, and plug in the new bulb. What's next? Will we have to remove the dashboard to change the oil? Remove the rear seats every time we get gas? I can't believe that there wasn't a way to provide easier access to parts that require replacement many times over the life of a car. Maybe the monkeys who designed the car don't think it's going to last very long?
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I'm embarrassed to say this but I tried to remove the left side crankcase to install my new clutch spring. I got the clutch installed on the right side but only after I screwed up the gasket and the starter clutch wiring on the left side crankcase. How hard is it to remove the left side crankcase and replace the stator coil wire since I think I damaged it while trying to remove the cover? Also it feels like the (left) crankcase cover has something keeping it from coming right off ( springs back when pulled on). Is there something I need to know about when removing that cover?
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Well my body decided to give me a break and I was able to get back to working on the RSV. I have installed the accessory fuse block , the ignition relay and emergency bypass (Between the relay and ignition switch as per one of the schematics I found here, thank you) and have run a couple of 14 gauge "hot" wires from the new fuse block up to the fairing for the relay to the lights and one for ...well, whatever I think of next. Now I was about to remove the ignition switch to repair it since Mike (eusa1) has kindly offered to guide me through the work (Where else can you get this kind of help?) but, here's where I hit a snag. I don't have a bolt extractor so I was going to use a dremel tool to slot the bolt heads and use an impact driver to remove the bolts, but it looks as if even my smallest 15/16 in. wheel will cut into the switch housing before I have a usable slot. What size cut off blade did those who did it this way use? Also does anyone know what size bolts I'll need to replace the ones I remove? Or are they re-usable if I remove them this way? Once this is done, I'll be splitting the fairing to install a relay for the driving lights and headlight, but first, I want to complete this work.
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I am going to remove my rear wheel this weekend for a tire replacement. I have a jack and the carbon one adapter and a tire. What all do I need to remove before the wheel? The manual I have, says to remove the muffler, saddlebag guide bar (left and right) exhaust pipe, rear brake caliper, and of course the axle. This sounds like a major job. Do I need to take off BOTH saddlebag bars? And, does the exhaust pipe have to come off? I figured, I'd just remove the Right saddlebag and muffler, then remove the caliper and snatch out the axle??? I'm sure once I get into it, I will realize what has to come off. Just wanted some input, so I would be prepared. Sometimes, I spend too much time trying to "NOT" remove something that would have been easier to just remove in the first place. Thanks, for any tips that might make the job easier. dana -
does anyone have a stock clutch spring laying around from an upgrade? I have a friend who wants to remove the heavier spring and replace with a stock one.
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I need to remove the Reflector with the word Yamaha in it. It is located between the two side bags at the rear/bottom. Can someone provide some general steps of instructions so I do not dismantle things that are not needed. I tend to do that alot, remove things that are not needed. -
Do you have to remove the tires from the bike to balance them?
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So, Saturday I decided to take my 01 BMW F650 GS Dakar out for a ride. Great bike and a lot of fun. The battery'd been fading for the past few months and everytime I'd start out it would "drag" a little and then light off. Well, Saturday I found I'd waited too long-no cranking. That's OK, 'cause it was my own fault for waiting too long. Anyway, got the new battery today and went to change 'em out. Never done that on this bike in the three years I've owned it. Get the manual out. OK, let's see, unlock trunk bracket and remove trunk, unlock and remove tailpiece, remove seat, remove right front TURN SIGNAL(?) (4 bolts), remove right side trim (5 bolts), remove center trim piece (2 bolts) and voila, there's the battery! What the ?? Must be getting old, 'cause I remember doing a ring job on an H2 750 Kawasaki and only having to pull 18 bolts to drop the exhaust and pull the Heads and Cylinders!! It's like the little elves in the black forest hung the battery on piano wire and then built the bike around it. No wonder BMW service is so pricey:whistling:
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After three months of inactivity, I've finally gotten back to the fork seal replacement on my '87 VR. Can't see how to remove the air ride collars on the upper tubes though. I've loosened the bolts a bit, but now the rubber tubes on them spin the bolt back with each turn. I need to get these off to get the upper tube out to finish the seal install. I tried the method from the tech library section, but I just can't get the seal and bushings seated properly that way. This is my "last gasp" effort as I have pretty much had it with this job. I'm not certain I can even get it put back together now, but if I can at least get the fork together and the wheel back on, it will be easier to move the bike. Failing that, I will completely strip it and put the parts on ebay. It was running quite well when I stored it last November and everything still works, so I may be able to get some decent money for the pieces, but I need to get it out of my garage and somewhere else to dismantle it...so, I need to get the fork and the wheel back on so that I can move it. Now then...how do I remove the air ride collars? The description in the manual says "Remove air ride collars." Wow...that's really helpful! Sorry, but since I'm not that bright or talented, I need just a bit more info. Right now, my angle grinder with a cutting blade is looking mighty attractive! Andy
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Is there a secrete in how to remove the left and right lower air vents on an MKII?
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Hi. This is the first time I post on this forum. I need to know the part number for the bleed screw that bleed the carburator on a first gen 1983. I have one badly round off and cannot remove it at all. I would like to know if it's available before attempting something '' drastic'' to remove it! Thanks. Denis
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Is there an easy way to remove my TCI? It looks very hard to get at.
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I'm sure this has been covered, but I thought it bears repeating. My starter cranked very weak. All connections were great and little loss through the solenoid. Skydoc_17 suggested that I install a VMAX starter (4 brush vs. 2 brush), which he sold me at discount (thanks). This Totally solved my problem-period! I read a tutorial somewhere that detailed removing exhaust pipes (it's not that involved and you don't need to disconnect the exhaust)! You DO need to remove the radiator and lower hoses. The bypass tube leading from the thermostat housing and the housing itself (remove the plastic elbow from the water pump and take the entire assembly out). Use new O-rings for everything and use some vasoline to lube them (or something similar). I have a first Gen and I needed to remove the air dam and it was easier with the right side crash bar removed. I spent about 3 hours, but I changed the thermostat and did some other things as well. I should have taken pictures, but that would have cut into my drinking time!
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Need to get to fuse panel. The inner cowling screw near the brake pedal just turns with no in or out movement no matter which way I turn screw.. Pressure against the cowling plastic doesn't help. Any trick to this? Seems like threads or nut? behind this is fubar. First time for me to try and remove. I guessing it has been off before since middle bottom push screw is missing. Wally -
Bought my ’08 RSV back in January. Runs great but has a few minor problems I’ve been getting to slowly. This weekend was cleaning and greasing the electrical connectors in the fairing. The audio has been cutting out intermittently – a problem well documented on this forum. I split the fairing OK but when I went to remove the light bar so I could remove the front portion of the fairing, saw that both 5 mm hex screws were completely rounded. Tried drilling one and using an extractor but broke it off (that’s never happened before:depressed:). I might be able to remove the fairing if I disassemble the running lights but that seems to be getting me further down that black hole I’m trying to avoid. The frustrating part – I can see the connectors I want to clean, just can’t get to them – all because of a couple buggered hex screws. Suggestions? It’s too early to drink.
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Last year I was stumped :scratchchin:on what this was all this was about, So I did my research and it only took a year to get it just right. but it makes since now. There is a method to this madness !!! At first I could not figure out what the difference was with Polishing and Waxing. then found out about cleaning clays. (what's that?) *lol* So basically vintage cars and Trike in my case. WASH Trike/Car Use cleaning clay to remove all the rest of any surface dirt. Use Polish (1) (2) or (3) after that to remove any surface scratch marks and finely WAX . There are different polish and wax applicators as well. All used with Griots Orbitals I use mostly the 3" on the Trike and I also have the 6 " for the Vintage cars. Today it is real humid out so I am doing this in the Garage with the Air Conditioner running. Man oh Man what a difference in the paint job after doing this the correct way. Rather than the basic way-- wash and slapping wax on. AMAZING !! So Shinny !! Jeff
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Ok, on a 2008 Venture, how much is involved in removing the fairing cover? I have seen the allen head bolts around the inside...do I have to remove the chrome trim on the front? The windshield? If so, how is that done? Thanks!
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It has come to my notice that some jobs on our much beloved (and very fast) classic Ventures, just are not hard enough already. You 2nd Generation folk may skip the rest of this thread. Your bikes take longer to complete their journeys, so y'all don't have time for the extra work we need to indulge in! So easy are they that folk are feeling the need to invent a few steps not envisioned when the Workshop Manual was written. So let's examine a few common problems: Removing the Spark Plugs .... Indeed it is fortunate that this operation rarely has to be performed because it is next to impossible without first removing the engine. Rarely has it been my misfortune to encounter spark plugs so difficult to remove, if you discount the one right around the back of the motor of my Ford Windstar. Whose idea was a V4 anyway? So .... engine beautifully balanced on that upturned bucket I found in my shop, and the plugs come out in a jiffy. Why didn't Yamaha think of that? Changing the oil .... This one is dumb. Surely you changed it when you had the engine out to remove the spark plugs! No? Well then you need a hoist. Having removed the idiotic piece of plastic hiding the oil filler from all but the most "investigative" of our membership, and having somehow found just the right sized wrench that will get off the filler cap, because it was too easy to put it somewhere ... you know ... reachable, then all you need do now is hoist the bike, spin it over and the oil will run right out. Or you could remove the drain plug. Nah! Too easy. Shimming the Valves .... This one is tricky. The Workshop Manual describes the process, because it's a Workshop Manual, and that is it's reason for being. It's a simple process although even I will admit that "shims and buckets" sounds more like a Harry Potter spell than a mechanical procedure. There is a fiddly, and very expensive tiny bit of metal that needs inserting where no metal should ever be inserted. For God's sake please don't forget to remove it when you are done! Getting hold of one is hard. It involves a PM to Skydoc_17, and a promise to return it. Thanks Earl Much easier to remove the cams, having carefully measured all the gaps. Oops! Where did that chain go? There are reasons to remove cams, but shimming the valves is not a good one unless, of course, there are other reasons why you may want to spend more time in the shop. Removing the rear wheel .... Here we have a situation where the very best in "Shade Tree Mechanics" do actually beat the pants off the manual. Start by removing the front wheel. Yes, you heard right, to remove the rear wheel one first removes the front. I know, it's crazy. Having removed the front wheel, and tied the center stand to prevent it flipping up, you can then lower the bike onto it's fork ends tipping the back end up so high it gets a permanent snow covering. Handy! Rear wheel is now a no brainer. There endeth the lesson. Meet here next week for "How to adjust the drive chain" ps ... Don't get upset, my tongue is firmly attached to the inside of my cheek!
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I come here simply asking for a prayer or 2 if your are so inclined. I havent said anything as of yet till now because the docs werent sure what they were going to do. She has had a knot on the side or her neck for a wile now and I finally talked her into seeing her doc over it. They did a biopsy and pull quite a bit of fluid out for a test and it came back inconclusive. Now the docs are saying the only way to tell if its cancer or not is to operate and remove the knot from her thyrooid gland. Docs also sy it might explain why her apetite had fallen of in the last couple of months. ANywyas thanks for letting me ramble and humbly ask this favor of my family. David -
How does one remove the sticker put on the gas tank on a new bike warning about wearing a helmet? I tired with my finger nail but its on very well. I certainly do not wish to scratch the paint trying to remove it. Thank you in advance for the help.
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If you look inside of mine there are like little triangles facing forward and a bunch of them. Not sure of the purpose but I am wondering if I remove them somehow will I get a better tone. They really do not sound much different them the OEM's.....
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OK folks...at this time there are 185 folks signed up for Maintenance Day and about 35 "maybes". I can work with that but if you could all go to the calendar and narrow it down a bit that would be great. If you are signed up as a "maybe" and now know that you are coming, please remove your maybe and add yourself to attending. It costs me about $12.00 per person for the catering and I hate ordering way too much food because if I order for 200 and only 180 show up, it still costs me that other $240.00. Even worse than that is if I don't order ENOUGH food..that is always my biggest fear. So if you haven't signed up or need to change your status, please go to the calendar and add or remove yourself. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=220&day=2011-6-4&c=1
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I am looking at moving my TCI to the airbox but I can't see how to remove it from the stock location. I have the battery box out and don't want to remove the fairing. Can anyone tell me how this thing is mounted? Thanks
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kickstand removal question
nc jack posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
i'm the new owner of a 1996 royal star (xvz13a). the previous owner had somehow snapped off the prong used to lower the kickstand. i've read the posts about welding the kickstand, but i've purchased a new kickstand from a salvage yard and would prefer to replace the kickstand. here's my problem: i can't remove the bolt holding the kickstand because it screws out against the alternator cover and won't come all the way out. is there a way to remove this bolt without removing the alternator cover? thanks for any advice. -
You may have heard that I got my bike home last Wednesday following three months of repairs, and that there was a loud backfiring. The dealer had been unable to determine the source, but 5 minutes with Squidley and we had a prime suspect: the dealer hadn't hooked up a vacuum tube to the AIS (I presume). Pic: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3303/5699095405_9f3c32f19e.jpg This particular tube goes to the front, behind the right front exhaust header. We could see the lonely nipple with a mirror. We just couldn't reach it. Squidley says he'll be available to take off the exhaust so that it can be hooked up, hopefully solving the very loud backfire. But isn't this something I could do myself? First, is there an easier way to connect it? Force my daughter into anorexia so that she can reach in, perhaps? Loosen something or other, move it out of the way, tighten back up? I have an RSTD, so the front is somewhat more open than an RSV (I am posting in the RSV forum because it's seen more and almost as applicable). Second, if I do remove the exhaust headers, do I have remove both, or just the front? What all do I have to remove to get to that header bolt? Thirdly, thanks to those of you who will demand that I take the bike back to the dealer to have them fix their shoddy workmanship, but no. I've already been without her for three months, and I can't waste another month having them fix this. Dave
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