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“Fiscal Cliff” put in a clear perspective which explains why so many of our American colleagues are dead against tax increases of any kind. Lesson # 1 * U.S. Tax revenue: $2,170,000,000,000 * Fed budget: $3,820,000,000,000 * New debt: $ 1,650,000,000,000 * National debt: $14,271,000,000,000 * Recent budget cuts: $ 38,500,000,000 Let's now remove 8 zeros and pretend it's a household budget: * Annual family income: $21,700 * Money the family spent: $38,200 * New debt on the credit card: $16,500 * Outstanding balance on the credit card: $142,710 * Total budget cuts so far: $38.50 Have you got it???? OK now, Lesson # 2: Here's another way to look at the Debt Ceiling: Let's say, You come home from work and find there has been a sewer backup in your neighborhood.... and your home has sewage all the way up to your ceilings. What do you think you should do ...... Raise the ceilings, or remove the crap? Tough decision, Eh?????
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On my bike (96 Royal Star) I have the original exhaust and those 4 big old mufflers. Say I had a bunch of carbon deposit inside the mufflers...how would you go about cleaning or flushing them out? Could ya remove them from bike and get a few cans of carb cleaner and a air hose and go to sprayin and a blowin? Would that accomplish anything or not? -
Just finished this morning replacing my rear shock. easier than I thought went through the right side did not remove tire. Not a bad 2 hours job.
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I have a new rear shock on order and need to find someone who has replaced thiers to get tips and pointers on how to replace it. What to remove and what not to remove. Any help would be great. John
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what size socket do you use to remove the brake pad pins from the caliper? Is it a 6mm 12 point? Thanks
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These are the videos I promised on replacing the seals on a Gen 1. I did not document the entire breakdown. I assume we all know how to remove the calipers, antidives, & remove the front tire. This video starts as if you were doing progressives spring upgrade. The write up on here from skydoc was very easy to follow. I did use an impact gun for the 18mm allen bolts under the forks as they were spinning when I tried to remove them by hand. I used 5wt oil & have 8lbs of air in my class with progressive springs. It was recommended I use 7wt, but I could not find it. I have 15wt in it before but that was too harsh. befor the summe I will change the oil again. The best wt for me at 225lbs is either 7wt or 10wt w/o any air in the forks. I will figure that out! REMOVING THE SEALS [ame= ] [/ame] REASSEMBLY [ame= ] [/ame] I've put 50 miles on my bike & the forks seals are holding perfectly! I would be happy to answer any questions if you're planning to do it. -
I would like to move the trunk back on my 93 Royale trike and its not clear to me how to remove the trunk. I would appreciate it if someone could give me a few hints on where to start.
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Ok so I have searched for tips to rmove saddlebags, but I have not found any. I need to replace the rear brake pads and I can't figure out what all I need to remove to get the bag off? Any tips or suggestions???? -
is there a picture showing where the ground wire is for the R/R ? I have the gas tank off, and I understand its on the right side of the bike near he neck. do I have to remove the other plastic plate, wrapped around the ignition? Just checking, for a lose ground
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On my in to work this morning my low beam went out everything is okay hi beam and charging.. So my question is I have the rubber boot off and bulb unplugged, does that bulb just pull out or does it need to be turn, there is a clip there as well and does that need to be remove... Geez I wish my daughter was here her hands are much smaller... Thanks in advance
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I just mounted a 1st gen center stand on my 99 RSV. I now need to remove the rear wheel to replace the wheel bearings. Is it possible to do this using the center stand instead of the bike lift? I'd hate to remove the center stand to facilitate the bike lift. I'd have to remove both bags and one side rail but will I still need to jack the bike up to get the wheel out or is the center stand going to be high enough ( the rear wheel is 1.5" off the floor with the center stand).
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Thanks to Vincent, AKA: Playboy, for this EXCELLENT tech article. Packing Swing Arm Bearings 1. Remove the rear wheel as you normally do and your halfway there. 2. Drain the final drive and remove the speed sensor wire and four acorn nuts and simply pull out final drive and drive shaft. This is a great time to catch up on a lot of those little maintenance items. . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga1.jpg 3. Un clip the speed sensor wire from the swing arm and remove the clamps from the brake line. So you don’t have to hunt for them later re insert the clamp bolts back into the swing arm finger tight. Just allow the caliper to hang over out of the way. Be sure and check pads for even wear. 4. Now its time to remove the shock and the dog bones or leveling links. Before removing top bolt from shock remove seat and right side cover. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga2.jpg 5. Un clip the shocks vent line located beside battery on right side. Then remove round black plastic cover where you add air to rear shock ( it just pops out ) http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga3.jpg 6. Remove the nut from the valve stem. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga4.jpg 7. Now just work the vent line and air line down from top and pull out top bolt from shock. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga5.jpg 8. To remove Y pipes you will need to remove left side cover also. Under the lower section of the Y pipe loosen clamp closest to the rear. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga6.jpg For the section attached to rear cylinders you can loosen that clamp as well or remove the two nuts on the flange going into head . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga7.jpg Remove the bolt where the mufflers slide on . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga8.jpg 9. Now you can just work the Y pipe out and to the rear. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga9.jpg 10. Next pop off the chrome covers on both sides. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga10.jpg you will notice a bolt head on the left side. 30mm I think remove this bolt from the left side . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga11.jpg This bolt requires 72 ft/lbs on re installation. 11. On the right side you will notice a Allen head bolt with locknut loosen or remove nut then remove bolt . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga12.jpg This bolt only needs 5.1 FT/lbs of torque. Locknut requires the 72 ft/lbs. Don’t worry about the swing arm falling out when you remove the bolts. Now you can work the swing arm out from under the bike with just a wiggle. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga13.jpg The rubber boot protecting U joint should come out with it . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga14.jpg 12. Place the swing arm in a vice with drive shaft side down. Pull of the rubber boot so you can see the back side of the right side bearing. Insert the left side bolt from the inside. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga15.jpg Using a wooden dowel rod tap out the bearing and seal. This will allow minimum distortion to seal so you can re use it . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga16.jpg 13. I used a seal puller on the right side seal because I had one but working carefully with a screw driver or very small pry-bar you can get that seal out with out much distortion. 14. Inspect bearings and races for pitting or wear marks I doubt you will find any unless this has been neglected for a very long time. My bike was @ 30k and had some grease still on bearings Probably just what the factory put on them. 15. Re-pack your bearings with a good quality grease. Insert the right bearing and reinstall seal flip over the swing arm and repeat for left side. 16. Reattach the rubber boot and work the swing arm back up into the bike. Don’t worry about the trying to get the boot back on just yet. Just get it in there where the swing arm bolts will be close to lining up. Lift the swing arm up and slide something under it to support it. . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga17.jpg 17. Reinstall both bolts just enough to get the threads started good and then work the rubber boot back over the U joint. Long handle needle nose pliers and a monkey hook are real handy here. 18. Tighten both swing arm bolts. The left bolt must be tightened first. Remember right side is only 5.1 ft/lbs and locknut is 72 ft/lbs. 19. Everything else goes back in reverse order. Don’t forget to lube those pivot points on the shock while your there. Something that works well for me when it comes to reinstalling final drive and drive shaft is that I pull the driveshaft off the final drive, put the bike in gear, I then insert a large Allen wrench into the hole of the driveshaft where the spring fits for a handle and install the driveshaft into the U joint. You can turn the gear on the end of shaft to determine that your in the U joint and not beside it. Hope this helps because it is not the dreaded job I thought it would be. Could have done it in a afternoon but it was a 100 degree day and trying to take pics on all the steps took some time. Vincent aka PLAYBOY
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Can someone tell me where the anti tamper covers for the air adjustment are located or post a pic of them. Been looking in the service and parts manuals but they must be under a different name or terminology for me to find them. And what is the best way to remove them when I find them.
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Somebody can help on how is the best and carefull way to remove the HD pipes to reinstall the original ones? I already remove the clamp, but seems that the inner pipe didn't moved at all when I can see that the bracket on the back already moved at least 3/4". Even the buffer is out, but I don't want to scratch anything. Thanks, Carlos :stirthepot:
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I have a 2006 RSTD. I am installing the original mufflers on the bike. Do I have to remove the saddlebags to get to the back bolt?
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This has probably been discussed before BUT I cannot seem to find anything about how to remove labels off new gas tank(enviromental label yellow)
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I have a small tree growing up through the deck attached to my house. This deck is only a little bit above the ground, so I can't get underneath it to get to it. The only way I see to get anywhere near it is to remove some of the deck boards and reach down. Anybody have any idea how I can get rid of it? Frank D.
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I replaced a faulty ignition switch today, and while there is plenty of info on the forum on how to do it, I wanted to share how I dealt with the tamper proof bolts that hold the switch to the frame. There is no "head" to get a tool onto these bolts, so many guys use a dremel or die grinder to cut slots into the head so they can remove the bolts with a screw driver. Another option is to just drill out the bolt and then remove the remaining bolt after the switch has been removed. I decided that since I didn't need to salvage the switch or the housing (it was already broke) it wouldn't hurt to break it more. I used a small sharp chisel to break part of the switch base so I could get at the recessed bolt heads. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange014.jpg Then I used the chisel to tap into the side of the bolthead, making a gouge for the tool to bite into and loosening the bolt. It was just a matter of a couple of revolutions and I could turn it the rest of the way by hand. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange015.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange018.jpg I replaced the factory bolts with a couple of metric allen head bolts from my collection and I'm good to go. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange021.jpg Total time, start to finish to replace the switch.....1 hour, give or take.
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So, I just broke one of my eyebrows and im looking for another one, or a set if you have it. I cracked it while trying to remove one of them. Never work on the bike when your in an agitated state...........
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to have the dealer change out the rubber on the front, (removed from bike) do I have to also remove the discs from the wheel? I'm thinking not...but I want to be sure.
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Hey.. how do I remove the bags from an 83 without the key ? The bags are open, but seem to be locked on the bike. I need to get the bags off so I can remove a hitch from one of my part bikes. I don't want to damage the bags. Do I drill off the locks inside ?
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i want to remove the radio, cassette, cb, and air ride controller ( air ride disconnected). what parts will i need to convert it to a Standard? fairing pockets and covers? i tried ebay but couldnt find exactly what i needed. does anyone have these parts?????? ps: i have a working radio, cassette, and cb..... -
I want to put a fleece on my set just to cushion it up a bit, but don't want to cut it more than I have to. The best way to accomplish this would be to remove the driver backrest, so all I would have to do is cut about a 1 1/2" square out of it, slide it over the post and replace the backrest. There is a small screw at the top of the post that I would have thought would allow me to slide off the backrest, but it's still on there pretty good. I don't want to break anything so I'm not forcing it. Is there something else I need to do in order to remove it? The bike is a 2001 Royal Star. http://members.storm.ca/~cameron_antaya/ventureseat1.jpg http://members.storm.ca/~cameron_antaya/ventureseat2.jpg
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I bought a set of roto covers for my MKII a while back on craigslist, but it did not include the spacer. I thought that my machniest buddy could make a new spacer for me using the origional as a sample. I want to not shorten the OEM spacer incase I want to remover the roto covers for some reason, then I'll need the origional spacer. He can make one out of aluminum. My question is, would making one out of aluminum be ok. I would think it would be but I thougth I better ask. Another question: I need to remove the front axle, so I can get the spacer out. I see the axle nut head. But I also see an allen head screw the goes in at a 90 degree to the axle. Do I need to remove the allen head screw before I attempt to remove the front axle? Or maybe better yet, does anyone have an extra front axle spacer opposite side of the speedometer. for a 91 MKII? It be a lot easier to machine shorten a spare OEM spacer the width of 2 roto plates than to make a new complete spacer. -
ON my RSTD do I need to remove the rear wheel in order to remove the rear fender??? I'm all the way to the point of pulling it off - its completely loose - but these two mounts pictured under the frame where the seat attaches don't seem to allow enough room to lift the fender free. Help would be great.
