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Showing results for tags 'relay'.
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I may need to replace a sometimes flakey turn signal cancel unit- not the relay itself. Mine is a 1987 modelbut others may work. Thanks! -
Under the right side cover (the one above the passenger floorboard) there are 2 relays. The larger one is black and is the flasher relay. The other is blue. Does anyone know what this relay is for? Just noticed today that mine makes a buzzing sound when the key is on and the bike is in gear. Put it in neutral and the buzzing stops. Wondering if this is normal or if the relay is going south for the winter.
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Just when I figured out one problem I get another. I recently put the Plug and Play LED turn signals and tail light in my 99. Found out that the board or wire in the tail light was shorting out when I tightened down the bottom screw of the lens. Fix that and all seemed well. Got back yesterday from a ride to Vermont and still all is good. Put the bike away after a good cleaning, then this morning I get a call from the wife and she said the my passing lamps are on. They were not on when I went to bed last night. They're wire to a relay to the ignition switch and no other lights are affected (on). I will start tracing wires when I get home but am looking for a little advice what could cause it. Had one thought...Can a relay fail in the closed position?? Thanks. Bill
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I'm getting a set of the yamaha passing lamps soon. My question is this...I've read a lot of posts where you use a relay to hook them up. Is there a reason not to hook them up the way Yamaha says to?? Does it cause a problem if you don't use the relay??? :confused24:I understand that by using a relay you isolate the circuit and reduce the load on the headlight circuit.... and I'm sure that's better, but is it necessary??? Thanks folks....I'm sure someone will clear this up for me.
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I have searched the other forums and threads for an answer to my problem but I haven't found one yet. My right turn signal blinks rapidly while the left blinks normally. I have tried to locate any possilbe shorts with no luck. The manual suggests the flasher relay as the culprit and I am leaning that way also. My question is: Has anyone ever heard of a flasher relay failing for one side and not the other? If so then a new relay it is for me. If not any assitance will be appreciated.
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I got myself a Stebel Air Horn but did not wish to place it where the factory horn was located , nor inside the front fairing like most others . The fact that inside the front fairing muffled the optimal decibels that the Stebel air horn provided . Relocating it in place of the factory horn allowed optimal decibel sound on the right side of the RSV, but not on the left side . I wanted equal amount of sound on both sides of the RSV, so I searched numerous possible location as to where to mount the Stebel air horn . I looked towards mounting up in front under the triple tree on the front forks , but not enough clearance and bad idea if the front forks were fully compressed . I looked towards mounting under trunk , but did not want the navigator to jump up and disrupt my driving if I were to suddenly blast away , if you know what I mean . So, I looked towards the underside of the RSV. And to my observation , there was enough room behind the lowers and along side of the oil filter to where a large enough cavity was located to mount the Stebel air horn . I made a mount simply out of 1/8” x 3/4 “ x 2 ½” metal strapping . Using the exiting mounting bolt on the Stebel at which I believe was a 1/4” diameter by 1”, I drill a 1/4" hole on one end to secure to the Stebel horn . I drilled a second hole 3/8” measuring from center of the 1/4 “, 1 3/8” to center . Pictures 1 and 2 show how I made the bracket. Note:You may want to pre-wire the horn mounting as I did by making pig-tails with plug-in terminals as you will have to remove the horn during oil changes. As you see in picture 3, a 14mm acorn nut that is connected to a bolt which passes through the frame . I removed the acorn nut and removed the bolt. Taking that bolt and passing back through the 3/8" hole on the new mounting bracket on the Stebel horn and placed it back into original hole and re-tightened the bolt with the orriginal acorn nut . You will want to maneuver the horn to where it does not make contact to any other part of the RSV, especially the oil filter, then tighten down the bracket . In pictures 4, 5 and 6, you can see that the Stebel horn does hang down lower that the driver’s floorboard brackets , but not as nearly as much that the motor’s oil pan . I have not had any issues as of yet going over obstacles such as trailer loading or curbs, but do take precautions at the least . I also used the air tube inlet that was provided with the Stebel air horn and routed the opposite end up and behind the lowers to not take in water during rain or road wash. Wiring the Stebel, I used the relay provided when I purchased the horn. I mounted the relay under the right side battery cover. There are numerous threads on how to wire up the relay. I chose to go connect the main power to the relay straight to the battery and ground it to the frame. To activate the air horn, I connected the factory horn terminals themselves. Therefore I did not have to monkey around running longer wires, nor adding more drain on the RSV’s wiring. Muffinman was gracious enough to supply the terminals tome and I cannot remember the correct name of these. I have seen at the auto parts store. These terminals have 1 female with 2 male blades on them, which allowed me to both connect the factory horn wiring and the wiring back to the Stebel horn relay . I have been running my Stebel air horn in this location for almost 6+ months now. Placed over 3K miles on the scoot even through major rainstorms. By mounting the Stebel under the scoot, the horn itself is projecting it’s blast towards the ground, echoing the 138 decibels equally on both right and left sides of the RSV. The Stebel horn has not taken in any water to cause malfunction as of yet and with the horn itself is pointed to the rear, it does not scoop up any rain or dirt. Plus I still have the factory horns as well! BEER30
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I have a used 1stgen. rear shock. It was graciously given to me by Gibvel, and I no longer need it. I will do the same. Free to whoever wants it. Either you pay the shipping or we make arrangemnts for a relay. Let me know
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OK I can turn a wrench but I am a electrical Idiot!!!! When I install driving lights on my 85 do I need a relay?? Why and what does it do?? Where does it go?? Was planning on wiring directly to battery thru a fuse to a switch. Horns I have came with relay maybe they will help me to understand.
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How many switched 12v wires are available in the fairing that can be used for power for a light relay? What color are they ?
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I want to mount some fog lights on my rsv. I read a previous post about the platnum burners. When mounting them do I need to use a relay or an in line fuse? I haven't never messed with a relay so what size do I need if I need one? Can I hook my driving lights up on the same relay or not? If someone has better advice on fog lights please let me know. Thanks hairman
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OK guys need some help here, I got my Stebel Air Horn during the week from http://www.twistedthrottle.com and I got the plug and play wiring kit to go with it figuring to make it eaiser to install. Well the connections they have are different from what I have seen here, which are, connect the black wire from the relay post 85 to the ground, so I hooked up to the battery negative. Run the red wire from the relay post 30 with the built in 30amp fuse to the positive battery terminal. Run the yellow wire, from post 87 and hook up to the positive of the air horn. Next connect the ground wire to the negative side of the horn and ground it at the mounting bolt. Install the fuse next. Next run the blue wire from post 86 to the existing horn hot wire. Ok so here's the deal got it all done tried the pink wire first and the horn was quiet and was on at time of turning key on. So tried the brown wire, and same thing. SO then tried both together and got the sound I was looking for from the horn but it still, as soon as I turned the key on the horn sounded. I'm curious as to what will happen if I take the wire on post 85 and hook that up to the pink wire and just hook the brown one up to the post at 86. Any ideas or knowledge of what will make this work with the wiring kit, or am I better off just wiring it the way Larry has it? I do like the whole connection thing they include nice wire harness to plug right into the relay, makes for a clean look and easy to unplug. Anyway, any help would be appeciated, Scott.
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My plan is to add 2 amber led's on the front guard and 2 red led's on the reat guard. My intent is to replace the reflectors that are there now. The question is - Can I safely connect the led's to the existing light relay that I installed for my passing/driving lights so that they will be energized with the ign. switch ?? btw - it's a 30 amp light relay and it's powered from the aux/cigarette lighter and it is fused.
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I found on ebay a set of Yamaha lights, bought them and installed them w/o doing my homework. First - didn't know I should leave the switch in line Second - didn't know I should have put a relay in line Third - and most importantly, I didn't know what the hell I was doing Now, 3 days later, they are switched, they are fed with a 30 amp lighting relay and most importantly the GREEN wire going to the turn signals IS NOT a system GROUND. All it does is make the driving lights and turn signal alternate flashing. That may not be a bad thing but I opted to fix it. After having the front off the bike 3 times in as many days, I'm afriad to walk by with an allen wrench in my for fear one of the front pieces will just automatically fall off. All in all it was a VERY learning experience - Thank you guys for the help and instruction :clap2:
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I bought the Stebil air horn & wiring kit last winter. I plan on putting it on this w/e. Where do I locate the Relay? - I mean the physical location, not electrically. craigr
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In an earlier thread, some of you guys gave me the idea to use a rear window defroster relay/timer for a manual over ride on the cooling fan on my scoot. Well, got it done. It works perfectly. On for 10 minutes then goes off by itself. I got rid of the OEM stereo and replaced it with a Pioneer CD stereo a while back. I left the mute and seek switches on the handle bars thinking I might have a use for them later. I modified the switch by taking out the mute switch and replacing it with an amber lens. I had to run a fourth wire to the switch to light the bulb that I took out of the relay. So the seek switch became the fan switch and the mute became the indicator light. I don't remember what kind of car I took the relay out of, but I think it was a mid to late 80's Lumina. You can see the number on the relay in the picture if you need it for reference later. At the same time I also replaced the thermostat and flushed out the old coolent and replaced it with some new stuff. Also the radiator cap didn't look so swell so I replaced it with an extra one I had on hand. The local auto dealer here is an Auto Value store, so the Napa number (156) wasn't much help. On another thread that some one else posted, another member posted a picture of the box that he got his thermoatat in from Napa. Along with the number 156, there was also a number 33708. We were able to use that number as a cross reference. We founs a Stant #13758 that fit perfectly. It was also a 180* thermostst same as the OEM stat.
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Some months ago I was asking about this swap- I am nealy complete now but need some advice on wiring the (electric) anti-dive soleniods to work. Do I simply use the brake switch to feed them 12V? Do I setup a relay? Do they need a different voltage? Any help is deeply appreciated, Mark Koontz '83 Venture Wichita, KS -
I need help my thermastat gague on my 86VR is nor working some one said to check relay dose any one know where it is and how do i check it what do i do
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I've been contemplating buying this product; however, when I look at the installation instructions, I can't "fathom" how to connect it up using a relay either for the switch as a whole or separate relays for each accessory connected. Does anyone have suggestions...wiring diagram c/w relay, etc?
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Ordered 2 horns. Question, I am going to mount them on the rear bolt holding the passenger floorboards. Can I splice the wires from one relay to both horns? The relay is 30 amps. I was thinking of wireing one horn and spliceing the wires from that horn to the other horn. Hope you can understand what I mean. tew47
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Has anyone done a cross-reference on the starter{solenoid} relay------other than going to the Yamaha dealer------I thunk that on my 92 the starter relay has seen better days!------it only clicks--------the battery is fully charged.
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hi all i need some electrical advise on a 2002 ford windstar mini van. not mine but a friend of ventureriders. it would not start even with jumper cables. took battery out and down to auto parts store. they tested it, was low on charge but good battery. they charged it to specs. the ternamels were dirty as well as the battery clamps. cleaned all of them. before putting battery back in used jumper cables to start the van, van started up. installed battery. thought everything was ok. but now the remote door opener won't unlock the doors. also the radio does not come on and the twin side doors will not open with the electric motors. doors will open manualy. have checked all the fuses and rotated the control relay for the doors with another same rated relay from another circut. no fix. they said the remote door opener was working before removing battery. anyone have ideas. thanks in advance don c.
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I have an 83 stock Venture (no cb or intercom) and the previous owner had installed a standard car radio in place of the original. I replaced it with a Kenwood KRC-38MR with remote control pad several years ago, and it has performed quite well. Then last summer I replaced the cycles' fuse block and rather than run everything off of one accessory feed I inserted a relay (energized by the accessory circuit) and added a secondary fuse block thru which I fed all of the accessories (so I could split out various light circuits separate from the radio circuit). The new radio circuit was fused at 5 amps and was connected to a noise suppressor that was there previously. Everything worked fine when I was testing it in the garage on the accessory position (without the cycle running). The first time I ventured out (no pun intended) and attempted to turn the radio on, I could not hear anything until I stopped - then it was making stuttering sounds, as if it was getting intermittent power in rapid succession. Within a few minutes I got no sound at all - lights are on and it changes stations, etc, but no audio output. Fuses are all intact. The leads to the speakers are reading a constant 6 volts. I verified the voltage going to the radio appears to be constant as far my cheapo voltmeter shows (slightly higher than 12 volts when the engine is running, as I would expect). So the first question is whether anyone has any ideas as to what I have done to the radio itself, and more importantly, is there a flaw in my design of running the radio off of a relay circuit? Am I possibly getting voltage spikes that are somehow filtered thru the accessory circuit, but being reintroduced via the relay? Assuming I have blown the radio, any suggestions as to a reasonable relacement with an eye for future additions of a GPS, MP3, cell phone and headset interfaces, etc... on a bike that has no built-in provision for those things currently? Thanks for any suggestions or ideas, Mark (Windrider1983). -
I was hoping for some suggestions on where I could pick up a "Trailer Isolation Relay" in Canada. I need to wire up my Aluma MCT trailer and thought it would be wise to use a relay kit to protect the bikes wiring. I was also wondering how many actually use a relay kit. Is it really necessary or will the Venture handle the trailers LED lights without overloading anything. Thanks Jim
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After rebuilding the #2 carb cause it was dumping fuel out the overflow got the bike running and everything adjusted went to go for a test ride and less then a 1/2 mile from the garage it died like it ran out of gas got it back home and checked the fuel pump relay and power to the relay and checked resistance of the #2 coil little higher than the tolarance,the pump runs for the start up 5 seconds but not much fuel comes out,maybe 5 cc at the most, How much fuel should it be pushing? enough to get pressure to the carbs?
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hello I am trying to find a part number for a fan motor relay on a 83 venture. I just bought this bike and it was having overheating problems and i diagnosed it and found out the relay is bad. I have checked autozone ect for a relay. does anybody have a relay part number they have tryed. the wiring diagram shows that when the notch is on top that plug 1 and 2 is for the coil and 3 and for is the switch ... can you please help i am trying to get this bike ready for a ride from wa state to texas in apr. thank you wolfmedic:255:
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