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VR Assistance

  1. I'ts time to order new rear break disk, last year on the way from Minesota's PiP rear inner pad is broke and touch metal to metal, for quick fix i'm replace pads only, but rotor has some damage and inner pad has almost twice wear then outer one. Found good performance break dealer at Chicago motorcycle Show, and they ask me is it my rear disk floating or nonfloating:confused24: I have no idea what they asking me for. This two are listed For Royal Star Venture DF 463 W, and DF 498 W Please can you help me to figure out wich one is right disk for rear brake Thaks.
  2. Well, got my horn installed this weekend. Sounds 1000 times better than the stock. I noticed on one of the install pdf files that someone posted that they say (right under the photo of the horn) that the air inlet (the nipple that you had to insert into the side of the air pump housing) must face to the rear or be routed to the rear with a plastic hose. This is so the dirt and debris can't get into the air pump. This sounds like a very important thing to do as, with it in the position in which most of us have installed the horn, it is very much exposed to dirt, debris, rain etc. How many of you have actually done this with theirs? I've attached a copy of the pdf file.
  3. OEM Bag Rails- Do the Lines Look Right to You? By Brad Norris “Boomer” OK, I couldn’t wait until I bought a set of OEM bag rails from a guy on bay. These were the Real McCoy and came in the OEM box. I made special time on a busy Saturday as soon as they arrived and mounted them up. Installation is quick and easy with the most time spent on removing the bags. After installation I admired them from all angles but wasn’t quite happy with the fit up. It appears to me that the bottom of the rails, when compared to the lines of the bag, just didn’t look right. The back end of the rails appears to be higher than in the front. Also, the back of the rails sat right under the turn signals- in fact, they touch each other. I quickly became suspicious of the Ebayer I bought these from but after looking at many pics on the forums I subscribe to, I saw the same trend in 95% of those I saw. Here is a side shot before with the camera leveling out on the rail. Muffler removed for clarity. http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic1.jpg The rear distance from the bottom of the bag to the bottom of the rail is much different from the front measurement. Mine was out ¾”. To make the “gaps” closer to each other, either the back of the bags must be raised or the rails lowered in the rear. Since it is impractical to raise the bags, I decided to lower the rails. To do this, remove the bag and loosen the front mounting bolt on the rail. Here’s a back shot of the bike with the OEM mount up. Note that the rail rubs the signal. http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic2.jpg I would suggest you do your own measurements to determine where to drill the new hole for the rear mount. Use a small “C” clamp on the rear mount when you think your measurement is close and then set the bag back on to see how it looks. It’s a bit tricky, but better to measure twice- and drill once. Important- Since the chrome rail you will drill into is “U” shaped, be mindful that you will have to put a metric nut behind it for the bolt. If you drill too close to the edge of the rail, you may not have enough room to thread the bolt in the new nut. The back of the rail has foam in it. Just make way for the new nut. I can’t remember the size of the nut but I bought it at Home Depot. When you have the final position, hold the back of the rail in place and use a spring loaded center punch to mark the new bolt location. http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic3.jpg A spring loaded center punch makes this task a bit easier. If you don’t have one, GET ONE. Here’s a pic of mine: http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic4.jpg Be sure to put some scrap metal behind the bracket before you push the drill through the fender and god forbid…the tire! Now, place the rear bolt that came with the rails through the support in the hole you just drilled and fasten with a nut (metric). Retighten the front bolt and install the bag. You should have something that resembles this: http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic5.jpg When you’re done, you will notice the rails-to-bag lines look much better. http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic6.jpg In the rear, the bag rails no longer rub the signals. Enjoy! http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic7.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic8.jpg
  4. i found this on another site thought some of you may like to have a look this is not mine im just placeing a post here Travelcade "Road Sofa" by Saddleman for the RS Venture (used, low mileage). Part #Y963J. It features gel inserts front and rear for the comfort of the rider and passenger. It is equipped with a removable riders backrest that is fully adjustable. A goodie pouch is secured by velcro to the rear of the rider backrest and it includes a hideaway shoulder strap for off-bike use. Included with this package is a matching cover for the trunk mounted passenger backrest. The seat material (#96-22 Black) is called SaddleHyde.... it feels and looks like leather, is easier to clean and care for and it offers greater protection from the elements..... $450 Canadian. Shipping is extra and photos are available upon request. ken.jo@shaw.ca
  5. Graphic Equalizer in place of Cassette. Submitted by John Richie Most of the credit for this installation process goes to Kevin Wisor who brought up the topic back in Dec 06. I am providing the steps with photos. The 7 band graphic equalizer is the Pyramid Model 403G, $25.00 at www.etronics.com, advertised as 100 watt amp with a 12 db boost for each band. Dimensions are 4.8"W x 4.75"D x 1"H. The new sound is an improvement over factory, especially if you boost all of the bands, but is only for the speakers, not the headset. This setup disables the cassette player and removes the connector for the CD player (attached to cassette circuit board). The equalizer fits perfectly in the original case for the factory cassette player, but does require modifying the face plate to accept the front of the equalizer. Removal of the cassette player also removes the factory AUX plug, so run an extension line from the factory head unit to a new location on the inner fairing. The speakers work both with the power turned on or off for the equalizer. Installation requires tapping into the speaker wiring harness, as the equalizer needs an output source from the factory amplifier. I cut the wires from the front left/right speaker harness, and used as the left and right “output” as shown on the electrical connection diagram. These go to the “input” on the equalizer. Run new wires to all speakers from the equalizer. Since I could not locate the rear speaker wire in the front fairing harness, I just ran new wires to the rear speaker(s). This disengages the factory fader control on the handlebar remote, but the equalizer has a fader control for the front to rear. The basic installation steps follow, with photos: Remove (split) the Front Fairing. Remove headlight assembly. Remove the brackets holding the stereo head unit, move head unit to left side (out of the way). Remove the four mounting bolts for the cassette deck, and remove the two screws that hold the cassette face plate to the inner fairing. Unplug AUX line and cassette deck wire connector. Keep the cassette deck front door closed for removal of cassette unit from the inner fairing. Carefully (toward the front of the bike) pull the cassette unit out of the inner fairing. Photo of cassette deck. Cut clear protective tape, remove the two lid screws, and lift the top from the deck. NOTE: Do NOT remove the side screws that hold the door assembly! Bottom: remove screws, clamps, and remove the cassette works (mounted with four rubber shock mounts). Pull off the rubber grommet protecting the rear deck wires and reuse when installing the equalizer. Also, I used the connector cap for the CD connector to cap off the original wiring harness connector for the cassette deck. Measure and cut the face plate of the cassette housing to allow mounting of the equalizer. Carefully cut the plastic face plate with a Dremel. The equalizer should be pushed into the face plate enough to use the fader and power button, but not too far or the front door will not close properly. The cut area should be made to fit between the top lip and the 2 fairing mount screw holes at the bottom of the cassette plastic face plate. After I did the rough grinding, I carefully used a small file to fine tune the cut area until the equalizer fit snugly in the face plate. Final mounting of the equalizer in the housing. I did not use the supplied mounting brackets for the equalizer, but instead removed the side screws from the equalizer box, drilled a hole on each side of the cassette housing, and mounted the equalizer with a metric machine screw on each side. The equalizer is held in the front by the plastic face plate and on the sides by the two mounting screws. Re-use the rubber grommet from the cassette deck wires to mount the wires from the equalizer on the rear slot of the housing. Re attach the top lid to the cassette housing and cover with clear packing tape to protect from water damage. Make sure that the door opens and closes properly. Reinstall the equalizer/cassette housing unit in the inner fairing, and again check the door for smooth operation. Disconnect the wire to the rear speaker(s) and run a new set under the seats and gas tank to the front fairing. Since I removed the trunk from my RSV, I only use one speaker in the rear, mounted between the bars of the passenger back support. For those with the trunk, the factory configuration uses only one set of wires for the two rear speakers (mono sound), so now is your chance to run two sets of wires, one to each rear speaker, for true stereo sound in the rear. Hook up all of the wiring for the equalizer using the supplied wiring diagram. Turn on the key, power up the equalizer, and check that all is well. Re-mount the front fairing and enjoy. Thanks, John Richie
  6. Here is a chart some of you may find useful, since this question gets raised occasionally. It compares the engine rpms of a stock 2nd gen Venture against what they become when a V-Max rear gearset is installed. Mph is down the side, gear number is across the top, stock gearing rpms are on the bottom of each box, and the rpms with the V-Max rear gear is on the top of each box. To make things a bit more readable, the rpms are rounded off to the nearest 10, which isn't detectable on most tachometers anyway. If you're one who doesn't like math, then don't bother to read the rest of this. The stock gearseat has 33 teeth on the ring gear and 10 teeth on the pinion gear, where the V-Max rear gear has 9 teeth on the pinion gear. Basically, the V-Max rear gear will raise the engine rpms about 11% over stock: (33/9) / (33/10) which simplified goes more like this: 10/9 The numbers in the chart are calculated figures based on the results of one of my dyno runs, which eliminates the speedometer error (about 10%) inherent in our bikes. The dyno indicated an engine speed of 6610 rpms at a road speed of 87.33 mph in third gear with a V-Max rear gearset. Then I calculated out the miles per hour and the transmission ratios to get the rpms at other road speeds and in other gears. Since my bike is a Royal Star which has a different primary gear ratio as well as different transmission ratios then the Ventures, I had to calculate through all these different ratios to get what rpms in a 2nd gen Venture would look like. For starters, at 90 mph in third gear it goes like this: 6610 / 87.33 x 90 / (29/25) x (30/25) / (85/51) x (87/49) = 7510 where (29/25) is a Royal Star third gear, (30/25) is a Venture third gear, (85/51) is a Royal Star primary reduction ratio, and (87/49) is a Venture primary reduction ratio. And that is with the V-Max rear gear since that's what I started with. To get the rpms with stock Venture gearing, multiply by 9/10. Clear as mud? You were warned. I drew a few different charts showing rpms with various transmission and rear gear ratio combinations on both Royal Stars and Ventures. I made them for myself quite a while back, partly because our bikes don't have tachometers and I wanted to know what rpms I was running without spending the coin it takes to buy one, and partly because I wanted to know what would happen with different transmission and rear gear ratio changes.
  7. I have around 50,000 mile on my 02 Midnight. This year maintenance I will be removing the carburetors for cleaning, lubing and adjusting the steering, replacing the fuel filter, spark plugs (Iridium), rear breaks pads, new rear Avon tire, Air Filters, Clearview windshield and oil/filter. These part number and pricing may be some help. Yamaha Fuel Filter: 1FK-24560-10 $12.19 (Dealer) Spark Plug: "Iridium" NGK DPR8EIX-9 (2202) $9.99 each Total $39.96 (Dealer) Break Pads rear: EBC FA124HH (HH for heat) $21.19 (JC Whitney) Air Filters: K&N YA-1399 $82.20 (JC Whitney) Tire Avon Venom: 150/90HB-15 305321 $123.95 (Southwest Moto Tires) Clearview Windshield XXLarge: $135.00+shipping (Clearview Shields)
  8. I posted this a while back on a similar post and I suspect what you are experiencing is an alignment problem. I have used a procedure for mounting a rear tire on any Venture that will align the rear end perfectly every time. I was told about this proceedure by a Venture mechanic back in 89 or so and have used it ever since. 1. Before removing the tire, put the bike in gear. 2. When removing the rear tire, loosen slightly the 4 - 14mm nuts to the rear member. This will also give you a little wiggle room to remove one of the wider tires. 2. With the tire off remove the 4 - 14mm nuts and remove the rear member and drive shaft. Grease the drive shaft splines and slip it back in the drive tube. This can be a bit tricky but feel for the inner spline U joint and move it up and rotate it where the drive shaft enters the U joint and the studs enter the holes. Put the 4-14mm nuts back on but leave them a bit loose. 3. mount the wheel into the rear member. Grease the axle lightly and slip it into the wheel through (1.) the large washer and (2.) the caliper bracket. Tighten the axle nut to where it pulls the axle through and snugs into place and then loosen the nut. With a 10mm allen wrench, you can rotate the axle. Turn the axle until you feel a loosest spot around the circumference of the axle. Mark this spot at the pinch bolt slit with a file for future alignments. 4. With the axle pulled through and snug, tighten the pinch bolt and then torque the axle nut to 110 lbs. This gets the axle and inner wheel splins into perfect alignment with each other. 5. Now go back with a good 14mm boxed in wrench and tighten the 4-14mm acorn nuts on the rear member in a cross pattern. This now pulls the drive shaft into alignment with the rear member. 6.You are finished with this part and can now put the caliper back on along with everything else that you took off. Now you really don't need to go through this entire process, but you do need to raise the bike where the rear wheel is off the ground and loosen everything up as follows: 1. Raise the bike with the rear wheel off the ground. 2. Loosen the axle nut completely. 3. Loosen the axle pinch bolt. 4. rotate the axle until you feel the loosest spot and mark this spot on the axle at the pinch bolt slot. 5. Loosen all 4 - 14mm acorn nuts from the final drive assembly. Now you are ready to tighten it back up starting with: 1. The axle to the point the axle nut just starts to tighten. 2. Tighten the pinch bolt 3. Torque the axle nut to 110 lbs 4. Tighten up the 4 - 14mm acorn nuts in a cross pattern. If it's still making a clicking noise then take it back to the dealer and have them look at it. If the rear fluid was not flushed at 500-1,000 miles, then you might have a set of needle bearings going bad in the final drive
  9. Have any of you fine folks retrofitted rear speakers onto your first gen? How'd ya do it? Jeremy
  10. I was thinking about putting SS brake lines on my 05 RSV. For those of you that have done this, how much difference did you notice from the OEM brake lines to the SS? Since Yamaha doesn't seem to offer them for the rear, I presume its because the rear line is so short there wouldn't be a noticable improvement. Am I thinking right on the reason for no rear SS line? Just wonder if there is enough improvement to justify doing it. Cheers, Gary B
  11. GREAT write-up from Melon13. I recently took my stock mufflers off my new Venture and added Road King Classic mufflers and have been very pleased with the installation. I wanted to keep the Venture heat shield and add it to the RK pipes for a better look so I took the heat shield off the stock Venture pipes and attached to the RK's. For the installation I picked up two Harley Davidson muffler clamps for the RK pipes at the local HD store for $8.95 ea. After installation I also drilled out the rear baffle of the RK's with a bi-metal 1 1/8 inch hole saw and got the sound I wanted from the RK's. Drilling is optional of course and some riders have drilled out both the front and rear baffles using a drill bit extension and others just like the stock RK sound without drilling. I picked my Road King Classic mufflers up on E-Bay, one word of caution, the Classic style RKpipes have the slanted rear which I wanted but there are some RK pipes that do not have this style and have the bullet style rear end similar to the Venture factory pipes, make sure you get the style of RK pipes you are looking for, especially if E-Bay is your source. I also purchased an adapter from our member, SofaPilot who made a mount for mounting a RK pipe to the rear exhaust mount of the Venture, this eliminated the need to cut off and re-mount the stock rear bracket from the Venture pipes. First step is to remove your rear side saddle bags and then remove the stock exhaust, loosen the muffler clamp underneath the front of the pipe and remove the bolt from the rear of the pipe and pull the stock pipes off the bike, since I had a new bike this was a breeze, but this could be harder for those who have older bikes. http://www.venturerider.org/rkmufflers/1.jpg After removal of the stock muffler I took my Dremel tool and cut the three rivets holding the stock heat shield to the Venture pipe. http://www.venturerider.org/rkmufflers/2.jpg Looking at the heat shield next to the RK pipe in the following picture you can see the square opening for the muffler clamp, just below this square opening cut the heat shield in the center, DO NOT cut the top section above the opening, just the bottom section, this will allow the heat shield to expand around the RK pipes. Next drill three 1/8 inch holes in the heat shield, I drilled them near the spot welds. Now put the HD muffler clamps over the muffler end and position the heat shield so that opening is to the inside, hint, the factory dimple in the HD classic pipes goes to the inside, I aligned my opening on the same side as the dimple in the pipes with a slightly downward angle so that I could easily get to the muffler clamp once the muffler is on the bike. Be sure and put the HD clamp on BEFORE putting the heat shield on the RK pipe. Now drill through one of the 1/8 inch holes in the shield and into the RK pipe and put ONE rivet in. http://www.venturerider.org/rkmufflers/3.jpg I then installed the RK rear bracket I got from Sofa Pilot onto the RK pipe. http://www.venturerider.org/rkmufflers/4.jpg Next thing to do is put the muffler on the bike, I used a rubber hammer and with some gentle pings to the bracket area, (NOT THE REAR OF THE MUFFLER) Mine went on fairly smooth and I temporarily attached them using the RK rear bracket. Now carefully align the heat shield so that it is even all around and not touching the muffler, you can then mark the remaining two holes with a pencil or felt tip and take the RK muffler back off the bike, drill the two holes where marked and place rivets in the remaining holes and remount the RK muffler. When I remounted the RK's for the final time I went down to the local auto supply and got some anti-seaze compound in a tube and made sure the exhaust pipe coming out of the Venture was clean and coated it with anti-seaze before the final install. Instead of marking both holes I ended up being able to drill one of the holes while the RK muffler was mounted and the heat shield was aligned, I then took the RK muffler back off and drilled out the third hole and riveted. I then used a standard drill with a bit extension and then drilled out the RK mufflers after installation from the rear of the bike. I used a magnet to retrieve any metal filings left. inside the muffler. RK's installed, you can see the rear mount attached to the RK pipe. http://www.venturerider.org/rkmufflers/5.jpg Finished product. http://www.venturerider.org/rkmufflers/6.jpg Hope this helps anyone interested in doing this modification, I love the sound that I achieved with the Road King pipes.
  12. I see in a couple of posts that some people are very adament about not using DOT5 brake fluid. I have been using it for well over a year on the RSV in the clutch and front and rear brakes as well as in the front a rear brakes on my 1997 Honda Shadow ACE for about 4 1/2 years. I have had no problems, leaks, loss of brake strength or anything to indicate this is the wrong stuff. I do know that you need to be careful and not mix any different types. Please explain why you feel that this is so wrong. If Im headed for trouble I would like to fix it before but it should have happened already if it was.
  13. Hey folks, does anyone know of a kit that turns your rear turn signals into a combination tail light/turn signal? I own a '06 RSV. I have a friend who bought such a kit from HD, and it really looks great. T/Y!!
  14. Sunday, after getting our camping stuff set up in Townsend TN, below Gatlinburg, my son and and grandson on their Yamaha FZ1, and the wife and I on the Venture took off down the Foothills Parkway to ride the Dragon. Just after we turned onto 129, as I hit a bump at the beginning of the first bridge, I thought I had a blowout or busted the rear shock. When I found a good place to pull over, the rear tire looked fine and when I checked the rear shock pressure, it was what I had it set on. When I looked under it, I saw that the rear suspension linkage had shifted forward and the frame on the cross bar was twisted and split. I have checked the frame several times on my 83 Venture and felt confidant that my frame had been replaced with a new one somewhere in its earlier life. I had asked what to look for on this site and was told to look for gussets and any signs of rust. There has never been any signs of rust and the frame looked beefy with gussets around this area. My first look with a flashlight does not indicate any rust present in the split areas and the frame walls look aproximately .075 thick and shiney. The bike is still sitting on the trailer that I hauled it home on Sunday night. At the moment I have the bike sitting upside down on my trailer. I have all the plastic off except the front fender and the rear frame section off. It appears that what has happened is the center section has twisted and split. I am taking it to a friend that has made a living as a welder and has built many racecars. I am going to have him look at it and see what we can do. I know that if he will agree to tackle it, it will be stronger than new when he finishes it. What really concerns me is this frame WAS NOT RUSTED AT ALL. It just twisted with the suspension pushing up and the engine weight pushing down on the other side. I did see areas that appeared to have poor weld penitration. I will post some pictures as soon as I can. Well, she is sitting upright and the rear suspension is on. I took it to my racecar building buddy and he did a great job getting it back right. He also added some 3/8 rod from the tower that has the suspension mount and center stand over to the frame, creating a triangulation for much added strength. I had my collector with me so we could see where we had room and it would not get in the way. Even though there was obviously some poor welding, but absolutely no rust, I feel I may have also contributed to the problem over the last nine years that I have had the bike. I have routinely spun the bike around while on the centerstand. My garage floor is very smooth and the bike spins easy, but I am going to stop doing that as this has probably put a lot of pressure on the frame in that area.
  15. Submitted by Bill Anton If this is something you may need to do (Sunday or Monday when bike shops are closed) print the procedure and put it in your owners manual. DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ===================== NOTE: This info is specific to the 1983-1993 Yamaha Venture motorcycle. Make intelligent (safe) changes for other motorcycles. Included in the procedure are REASSEMBLY torque specifications. The size listed is for the socket or wrench, not the bolt thread size. Initial tools required: - ratchet - 3" extension - sockets: 12mm, 14mm, 19mm - 14mm box-end wrench (if you loosen/remove the final drive) - 27mm flat wrench (rear axel nut) - 6mm Allen wrench (front axel pinch bolt) - pliers (for cotter key) OR get a get a 5/32" $0.75 hitch pin clip (Lowes / Home Depot) and never have to hassle with the archaic cotter key again - tie-down strap(s) - carpet / cardboard (for under forks) !! IMPORTANT: Control the bike's weight balance to make it safe to work around. You may have to ADD some WEIGHT to the REAR of the bike (saddlebags & trunk) BEFORE starting the procedure, so the front of the bike doesn't fall when the front wheel is removed in step 13. You should REMOVE everything from the saddlebags & trunk AFTER the front wheel is removed so the rear of the bike doesn't fall while working on the rear wheel. 1. Put the bike on the centerstand. 2. Connect tie-down straps from the bottom of the centerstand legs, to the engine guards. Pull them as snug as practical. 3. To keep the fork tubes from getting damaged in step 10, place a cardboard or carpet (from a car?) under the front tire area. 4. Loosen the right muffler-to-exhaust clamping bolt - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lbs. 5. Remove the right muffler mounting bolt - 14mm, and remove the muffler. REASSEMBLY - Torque 18 ft-lbs. 6. Remove the rear brake caliper - 2, 12mm bolts. REASSEMBLY - Torque 32 ft-lbs. TIP: Use axel wrench flat end to spread the brake pads during reassemble. 7. Loosen (not remove) the rear axel pinch bolt - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lbs. TIP: If the cotter key is aligned vertical, file marks on the pinch bolt end of the axel for easier future alignment. If it isn't aligned vertical, make the marks when you have the axel out. 8. Remove the rear axle nut and washer - 27mm flat wrench. *** DO NOT REMOVE THE REAR AXEL NOW *** REASSEMBLY - Torque 110 ft-lbs. TIP: Replace the cotter key with a 5/32" hitch pin (Lowes / Home Depot). 9. Front wheel remove: 1. Remove both brake calipers (2 bolts each) - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 32 ft-lb TIP: Get 2 pieces of cardboard 4"x4" and fold them in half and insert them between the pads to hold them apart TIP: Use axel wrench flat end to spread brake pads during reassemble. 2. Loosen the front axel pinch bolt - 6mm Allen wrench. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lb 3. Remove the front axel bolt - 19mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 75 ft-lb 4. Remove the front wheel. TIP: When you pull the wheel out, the speedo cable and drive will fall away -- don't worry unless you are over a dirt surface. REMINDER: On reassembly the speedo housing top-tab goes into the fork notch. 10. Carefully lower the front of the bike until the fork tubes are on the cardboard or carpet. 1. Start slowly pulling down on the fairing near the mirrors 2. As the pull-down becomes easier, slide one hand under the fairing for support 3. Squat a little as the fairing gets lower 4. As the weight increases, bring the other hand down for more support ****** REMOVE WEIGHT from the saddlebags & trunk for better counter balance. 11. Remove the rear axle. Notice the caliper bracket washer, it goes between the bracket and the swingarm. 12. Remove the brake caliper bracket. 13. Remove the 4 final drive attaching nuts - 14mm. then reattach one lower nut 1 1/2 turns so the drive shaft can't pull out of the U-joint and waste a lot of time to put it back together. REASSEMBLY - Torque 30 ft-lb 14. Pull the final drive rearward until it is against the nut. This gives a little more clearance to get the tire past the final drive. CAUTION: The wheel and tire weigh about 42 pounds. Be prepared for step 15. 15. Pull the wheel away from the final drive, and out of the swing arm. 16. Roll the rear wheel out under the fender and do what you removed it for. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Removal of the final drive unit at this point is recommended to lube the driveshaft splines (Molybdenum Disulfide Grease) as long as the wheel is off anyway. See the FINAL DRIVE REMOVAL procedure below. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* 17. Reverse the DISASSEMBLY procedures from 14 to 1. - in step 10, do the sub-steps in 3-2-1 order. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- FINAL DRIVE REMOVAL PROCEDURE (optional) ============================= 1. Remove the 4 final drive attaching nuts - 14mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 30 ft-lbs. 2. Pull the final drive out of the swingarm. NOTE on 86-93 models: The driveshaft oil seal makes the shaft "stick" to the final drive. The driveshaft can be pulled out with a firm force. DO NOT lube 86-93 driveshaft rear splines, final drive fluid lubes them. BE CAREFUL if you pull the shaft out of the final drive, oil can drain from the final drive. FINAL DRIVE REASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ================================ 1. Reinstall the driveshaft: 1. Pull (hard on 86-93 models) the driveshaft out of the final drive. Set the drive aside, being careful to keep it tilted up to prevent fluid loss. 2. Put the transmission in neutral. 3. Use a flashlight, and insert the driveshaft into the swingarm, and use it to align the U-joint so that the yoke is vertical (12 & 6 O'clock), and angled down toward the bottom of the swingarm. 4. Put the transmission in gear (so the U-joint can't turn). 5. Reattach the driveshaft to the final drive. 6. Insert the driveshaft into the swingarm, letting the front end drag on the bottom of the swingarm. 7. Wiggle the wheel mating gear on the final drive to mate the driveshaft with the U-joint - then put the 4 nuts on http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%201%20Kneeling%20position%20-%20rear%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%202%20Kneeling%20position%20-%20side%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%203%20Kneeling%20position%20-%20front%20side%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%204%20Kneeling%20front%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%205%20Parts%20removed%20in%2010%20minutes%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%206%20Centerstand%20tie-down%20strap%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%207%20Wheel%20out%201%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%208%20Worms-eye%20view%20of%20rear%20wheel%20well%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%209%20Rear%20brake%20caliper%20bracket%20position%20pin%20(Small).JPG
  16. Hey guys, help me out here if I've missed something, but why is it I've seen in the Yamaha catalog rear LED spoilers already painted for EVERY color they are EXCEPT the Black Cherry?!!!!! And even in the VOTE FOR FAVORITE COLOR forum, you didn't even mention BLACK CHERRY!! Whats up? Does people NOT reconize the 2006 Black Cherry?!! Is there a pre-painted spoiler somewhere out there? Help! mid life crisis
  17. and picks up a screw, gets plugged runs fine. However I am preparing for an Iron Butt sooo It seems as though Venom's are the most popular. I don't plan on down sizing the front tire (which is the plugged tire) the rear is a dunlap original. Should they both be changed at the same time because of different tred patterns?
  18. Interesting note from the Continental Tyre site on tire mileage: http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/motorcycle/img/void_uv.gifMileage A tyre which can achieve high mileage is an asset because a longer lifespan leads to lower costs. The mileage attained by motorcycle tyres and in particular that by the rear wheels of performance bikes cannot be measured in the same way as that of car or truck tyres. Because the motorcyles themselves weigh comparatively less they are able to accelerate faster and during this acceleration the rear tyre slips. This slipping leads to wear on the tyres. A pillion passenger whose weight is mainly placed on the rear tyre helps to prolong the life of the tyre. The rear wheel is pressed onto the road with more force, thereby reducing the amount of slipping. The tyre therefore lasts longer. Side note: Now that I've got everyone running Avon Venoms, I'm thinking of trying the Continentals! I find some of the information on their web site about the TK17 and new Milestone tires interesting. I need to get more information from them - they do not make the stock size for our front tire in the front tire design, but their fitment guide actually specifies to mount a rear tire on the front! First time I have seen this from a manufacturer. Anyone here run Continentals on their RSV? Which style? Your opinions? Thanx, Goose
  19. Starter This article should help the do-it-yourselfer understand the probable cause and cure for the starter. The starter is a high speed DC motor that uses carbon brushes much like the ones used in a rechargeable drill motor and can have the same or similar problems. If your starter drags (runs slow) when you try to start the bike in cold weather or when the bike is at operating temperature, you have one of two possible problems: You will need a battery or you need to fix the starter. If the battery is okay, you are going to have to remove the starter from your bike to find the problem. To remove the starter, I would suggest that yon start by removing the radiator and the thermostat housing. I have found the best way to remove the radiator is to take all the hose clamps and four 10 mm bolts on the side, loosen, then pull the top hoses off; then take the bottom ones off using great care with the small hose in the center of the bottom tank. This tube is the only one that is NOT SOLDERED! It is a press fit and if You pry too much or slip and hit it as I did, you will find yourself on the way to the local radiator shop to have it fixed. To remove the thermostat housing, remove the two 5 mm cap head screws at the bottom of the unit and remove the small metal tube; then the large plastic pipe from the housing or the pump. Now remove the two 10 m bolts holding the rear of the starter to the motor and remove it from the motor. NOTE: It's a tight fit, so spray some WD-40 on the front of the starter where it fits into the motor and carefully pry it out. Now that the hard part is done, you should clean the outside of the starter and look for a scribe mark on the front and rear covers where they meet the center part of the housing. Now, remove the two screws that hold the starter together and tap the rear cover off. Note there is an O-ring seal at this joint, so be careful not to damage it! You can now see the rear bearing and the brushes; check them for wear. Carefully remove the front cover and the armature from the center part of the housing. Note this cover also has an O-ring seal. Inspect the parts for rust and wear, use #600 emery paper to clean the corrosion from the commutator. A dirty or corroded commutator is the most likely culprit for a dragging starter with a bad rear bearing running a distant second. If the bearing is stiff when you turn it, try a thin oil or WD-40 on the back of the bearing until it turns freely. This should work unless the bearing is damaged; and in that case, it will have to be replaced. Yamaha does not have a part number for the rear bearing, so take the number off of the bearing and go to your local bearing outlet, then go down to your dealer and have the bearing changed. Check the armature shaft where it fits in the front cover and the gear at the end of the shaft for wear. If you find noticeable wear, the starter will have to replaced. Next, you should check to see that the coating on the copper wires of the armature is not damaged. If you find exposed copper wire, cover it with a coating of shellac, varnish or clear fingernail polish. The last thing to check is the commutator itself. To do this check the spaces between the copper bars to be sure they are free of foreign material and that they are slightly lower than the copper bars. Most starters will only need cleaning, but if the commutator needs work, Page 7-4 of the service manual covers the necessary steps to be taken. If you have decided to replace the brushes, install them before you reassemble the starter. If you found rust inside the starter and you have used the high pressure water at the car wash, you know what to do, or should I say you know what not to do. Reassemble the starter and remember to line up the scribe marks before tightening the screws, and you could also use some non-adhesive silicon to help the O-rings do their job. Test the starter before you install it by using jumper cables and a battery, then test it again after you have it bolted in place. If it passed the tests, reassemble the rest of the bike. Fred Vogt, #01037
  20. Frame Front Suspension Fork springs: At the 1985 V-Daze I attended a seminar given by Yamaha Motor Corp. and during that seminar, I asked this question "why do my front forks bottom when I stop on ruff pavement?". The answer "If you have more then 24,000 miles on the bike you should replace the fork springs" I left the seminar and rushed to the Progressive Suspension both and got the last set of after market replacement springs. I have over 176,000 miles on those springs and have been pleased with their continued performance. You can find a link to Progressive Suspension's web site on the links page of this web site. Fork seals: The fork seals on your Venture are tender and if you get even a small neck in the fork tubes they will start leaking! So before you replace the seals be sure to check the tubes for nicks. If you do find nicks, feel them and if you can feel it so can the seal, with a small fine file VERY CAREFULLY smooth only the high spot of the nick. Zerk fittings This article appeared In September l988 Issue of Venture road on page 15 and In 1991 Yamaha installed grease fittings as standard equipment There has been a lot of talk about installing zero fittings on the mono shock assembly and I have heard that at least one Priority Network dealer is doing just that. I decided to start with a set of arms off the wrecked '83 I have in the garage. Although this bike only had 14,000 miles on it, I could see some wear or pitting on all the metal surfaces and after some thought, I set off for the local auto parts store to purchase a 1/4-24 tap, a 7/32" drill, 2 long zerk fittings (11/16" overall) and 3 short ones (9/16" overall). The bill was $5.35 for the lot and as I drove home I could have kicked myself for waiting so long. Procedure... With the bike on the center stand, remove both mufflers and place a board under the rear tire to take the load off the assembly. Then remove the four bolts and the two bearings at the bottom of the mono shock. (Note: There are dust caps on each side of these bearings and they are not all the same, so make a note on where they came from). After you remove and clean both arms, you are ready to get started. I took my time with the first hole between the bushings marked "A", starting with a 1/16" drill, then a 7/32" drill and keeping the tap straight, I tapped the hole and installed one of the short zerks. The bushings marked "B" were not as simple because the '83 Venture has a metal bushing about .030" thick and I felt that the zerk was too long to go straight into the arm, so I used part of the weld to gain a little thickness but a thin washer would also have done the trick. Remember to drill the holes as close to the center as possible so the drill goes through the groove in the center of the bushings. (Note: 1984-87 Ventures have the thicker fiber bushing in the "B" position, so you only need to drill and tap through the one side of the bushing so that the zerk extends a little into the fiber to hold the bushing in place). The last two bushings marked "C" are drilled and tapped through the raised portion and then counter sink the holes with a clearance drill deep enough so the zerk extends into the fiber bashing. After you thoroughly clean the bearing surfaces, re-install the arms back in the bike and use enough grease to insure an even coating. Wipe off the excess grease. Now each time you change oil, give each of the fittings a little shot of grease for a smooth ride. Fred Vogt, #01037 On later models the procedure is the same and on the "C" bushings you will notice a flat spot where it looks like a grease fitting could go. http://www.venturerider.org/pictures/swing.gif Venture Rear Wheel Service You may ask, "Doesn't my dealer do that?" NOT UNLESS YOU TELL, HIM THAT YOU WANT IT DONE. This service should be completed every tire change or 10,000 miles (16,000k) or at least every two years; but in most cases it isn't done because we don't always have a dealer replace our tires and/or we don't tell him to do the work. So if you just bought the bike or you are not sure it has been done, it would be a good time to think about servicing the rear wheel of your Venture. The procedure is fairly simple to do on bikes without a trailer hitch and only a little harder if your bike has one. Remove the rear bags, right muffler, rear brake caliper and deflate the tire; then remove the rear wheel. If your Venture is a 1983, 84, or 85 you will need to remove the rear drive or differential and remove the drive shaft. Clean the drive shaft and coupling, then grease both ends before putting it back in (note: make sure that the shaft goes back into the u-joint. If you are not sure, remove the spring on the boot covering the u-joint and check it. Next clean the spline or gear on the rear drive and grease it with a good quality grease, personally I use a medium Moly based grease. Now find a couple of 2" x 4" and place the rear wheel spline side up on the boards. When you clean the hub and splines off you will see the spring clip or circlip that holds the hub in place; remove this clip and before you remove the hub mark the possession of the hub so you can replace it in the same holes it came from. Now clean the hub and inspect it for wear then apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip. Check the bearings inside of the wheel and check the bearing movement; if they are rough or worn replace them. Now for the mono shock pivots place a jack under the rear drive to take the strain off of the mono shock then dissemble. Clean and grease all of the pivot points and reassemble (if you have a 90 - 93 or you have had grease fittings installed, just give them a squirt). Before you install the rear wheel take the axle and put it back through the swing arm into the final drive to check the alignment. If you find that it is in a bind you will have to change the wedge shim between the final drive and the swing arm. Check the oil level in the rear drive or replace the oil if it has been 10,000 miles since it was serviced and check the brake pads for wear. You can now reassemble your bike and have another year or two of trouble free riding. Fred J. Vogt, #01037
  21. Mic-Mutes Installation Mic-Mutes is a product designed and marketed by VentureRider member Bill Morphy. This is a fantastic product and one of the best things I have done to my audio system. The one thing I have always disliked about the intercom system on the RSV is the fact that the mic is always on. In order to communicate with my wife, I need to set the IC volume on at LEAST 14 and that is borderline if you are in a noisy area or running at freeway speeds. Any higher though and the wind noise picked up by the mics is really a bother, not to mention that it severely degrades the music quality. Mic-Mutes solves this problem with a totally integrated system which allows you to toggle the mics on and off by using the push to talk buttons for the CB radio. Operation is very simple...just press and release either button (front or rear) to turn both mics on. To turn them off, just press and release either button again. To use the CB...simply toggle the mics on and then press to talk as you normally would. After using this system, I can honestly say that no RSV should be without it. This is a quality product at a fair price and not difficult to install. The hardest part of the installation is stripping the bike down and getting it ready. This is not difficult but a bit time consuming. You will need to split the fairing, remove the seat, remove the gas tank. The Mic-Mutes comes with a small black module that will need to be placed either under the seat or near the battery area. I placed the module just behind the battery. Look carefully and you'll see it in this picture. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic10.jpg The wiring is pretty simple and mostly plug and play. Under the rear seat, on the left side, you will see a 5 pin din connector. Simply unplug the connector and plug one of the included headset adapters in line with the separated plugs. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic1.jpg Now you will do the same thing with the 5 pin din connector inside the fairing. There are 5 of these connectors inside the fairing, you want the one that is marked with the red tape. Simply unplug that connector and plug the other headset adapter in line as you did on the rear. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic2.jpg Integrated into each headset adapter, you will see the telephone type jacks. There are two control module cables that come out of the black module. You will want to run the long one to the front jack and the short one to the rear jack. The best way to run the cable is along with the other wiring going to the front of the bike. As you can see in the following picture, there is a guard over the top of the wire way that you will want to remove to run the wires to the front. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic3.jpg After the wires are run, just plug them into the jacks. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic4.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic5.jpg Now that the headset adapters are installed and connected to the control cable, we have to connect the module to the passengers audio controller. This too is done under the rear seat. On the right side of the bike, near the trunk, is a 6-pin connector. Mic-Mutes supplies a tap slice connector to make an easy splice to this wire but I prefer soldered connections. Whichever way you decide to do it, you want to splice the yellow wire from the Mic-Mutes module to the green wire of the bikes connector. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic6.jpg The next picture shows my connection soldered. Then just tape it up well and this part is done. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic7.jpg The last step is to connect the power to the module. Most of you know that there is an unused power circuit under the seats of these bikes. It is located on the left side of the battery on the left side of the bike. It is simply two wires with a white connector which is not connected to anything. This is the easiest place to connect the power to the Mic-Mutes module. Again, Mic-Mutes supplies tap splice connectors for this splice but I chose to just cut the factory white connector off and use butt splices to connect the power. Very simple. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic8.jpg That's it folks. Just put everything back together and test. Mine worked perfectly and does exactly what it is advertised to do. Try it, you will like it. For more information or to order, check it out at http://mic-mutes.com/
  22. How much affect does a rear tire have on the tracking and unstable feel of a bike? A LOT! Much more than I ever suspected. In another thread several weeks ago I reported that I had to take off my rear tire before I had a new one available. Because I ride every day, I decided to re-mount an old Brickstone rear tire that I had sitting around for emergency use. This tire was flat as the proverbial fritter and mostly bald, but I figured I could run it for a couple of weeks. I was absolutely shocked with how bad the bike handled! This thing started trying to weld itself into every groove and ridge on the road, and if there was a spot near a light where the asphalt was bubbled or rolled up from the heat and weight of the cars, the bike would pitch hard back and forth as it contacted the uneven surface. Going over a ridge of uneven pavement between lanes was actually scary. All of this attributed to just the BACK tire alone. Last night after work I finally decided I had to mount the new Avon rear tire. Today, the bike handles absolutely perfectly again! No more tracking, the rolled up asphalt is undetectable, and the bike makes the transition between uneven lanes with hardly a blip. My front tire is an Avon Venom MT90 with 16,000 miles on it - same tire I had on it yesterday when it handled so badly with that old Brickstone rear. Today with a new Avon Venom on the rear, that 16,000 mile Venom on the front is handling every bit as well as I remembered when I first mounted the Venoms. I suspect that the quick handling that we get from the MT90 size up front actually made the impact of that flat rear tire worse than it was when it was still in use with the original front tire. On another note, anyone who has run the stock Brickstones is undoubtedly familiar with the infamous howl they make as they wear. I can conclusively tell you that the flat rear tire is where that howl is coming from! As soon as I put that old tire back on, the howl was back with a vengeance any time the bike as not being held in a perfectly straight line. The slightest hint of a lean left or right would just make that tire wail! Stay tuned for the next phase of this impromptu experiment. In about a month, while that new Avon rear tire is still new, I am going to re-mount the old fat Brickstone front tire to see just what effect that tire alone has on the handling of the RSV. I'll let y'all know! Final bit of information for anyone who has hung in here this far - I use a Harbor Freight tire changer that makes mounting skins a breeze. The learning curve is minor - after about the third tire change, the operation is so smooth and easy that dismounting and mounting a tire is truly a 5 minute operation. If you want to do this work yourself, that tool pays for itself with the very first set of tires you change. For anyone in North Texas who is interested, I'm more than happy to let you come over and use mine s'long as you bring a six-pack with you! I can't supervise without a beer, ya know? Good luck, Goose
  23. Thanks to Cougar for this excellent write-up FYI- Picture's of Rear Tire Removal Well, With all the searches and Folks Changing out there REAR TIRE. I learned A Lot today from you guys! And I said to myself ** SELF ? ** why not try this and takes some pics for other folks? Ok, here go's... I did what most of you said ! I did remove the Bags Because I had a hard time getting that little part out for my new Bag Rails. So they were off and Thats when the light went off and figured I have these Brand new Michelin Commanders laying around so I went to work on this project today.. With a Few emails to Mr. FreeBird! I got the Job Done! (thanks) Then I went Ahead and removed Both Mufflers (tell ya why in a bit) http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_029.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_007.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_025.jpg Then I Used a 1 1/16" Socket and took the main bolt off http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_019.jpg Then Remove the Rear Brake Caliber and place it on the passenger foot rest. This is also a good time to loosen the pinch bolt on the right side. The axle will NOT slide out if you don't. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_014.jpg Then undo the bolt for that swing arm thingy. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_011.jpg Now this is were I was glad I did remove the Left side bag and Muffler Cuz I could not for the life of me get that darn MAIN AXLE BOLT out with out having to take my socket extension and hammer it out.. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_003.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_010.jpg Here she comes! http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_005.jpg KEEP IN MIND THAT YOU PUT THIS WASHER BACK IN THE RIGHT ORDER WHEN PUTTING BACK TOGETHER! http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_008.jpg After the Shaft gets about half way is when I could pull the rest of they way on my own. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_005.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_027.jpg Note: My bike was on a Lorin Lift. So What I did was have that rear tire about a half inch off the ground when I pulled that Axle. (worked great) http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_018.jpg Then I lifted just a bit more and pulled from the right side until the tire kinda fell on its own. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_016.jpg Now the FUN PART! I just kept lifting http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_024.jpg MORE http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_026.jpg AND MORE http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_015.jpg AND MORE http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_017.jpg Man it was getting Scary! sheesh! http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_021.jpg Even with more room left the lift on my jack the tire Came right out! *VBS* PLOP! http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_004.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment.jpg Put back together in reverse order ~S~ I also did this as well. Took the main rear Diff off and there was no grease on the Splines. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_013.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_020.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_002.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_022.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_009.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_012.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_028.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_006.jpg This is what my Rear Brake Pads look like at 5,100 miles. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_023.jpg then I did the Front! (easy) And the lift kept the bike very stable even after the front Tire was removed.. I am impressed with the lift. When my tires get done being Mounted and Balanced I will go into the HUB and get that all greased up as well! (this was very simple after I got it all figured out and the help from reading what you Pro's had to say. Its just sometimes I need to SEE a picture to make me understand more *LOL* I hope this will help folks if needed.. I know I sure could have used something like this. ( this is on a 2K MM with 5,100 miles on her) Jeff P.S. PLEASE add any comments in case I made a mistake ! Thanks! NOTE: this Job could be done in 30 Min's with Pictures *LOL*file:///C:/VentureRider/wheel/showthread.php_files/rasberry.gif PLEASE READ ! OTHER NOTE'S BY, Denden, When you're re-assembling it... After you put the driveshaft in, put the differential on but leave the 4 nuts only finger tight. Then install the wheel and axle. Torque the axle nut to 110 ft/lbs. After the axel is torqued, THEN tighten up the 4 nuts on the differential. John Drummond, "Wrenchman" When you go to install the drive shaft a small diameter wire like an old antenna mast works great for holding the yoke up so you can slid the driveshaft in. Once the shaft makes contact with the yoke you can pull the wire out, and slid the shaft in to the yoke. This might take a try or two to get it in but works pretty well for lining up the yoke. Buz Rutan, "Naturbar" The author of the article says "I could not for the life of me get that darn MAIN AXLE BOLT out with out having to take my socket extension and hammer it out.." here is my addendum: On my 07 RSMTD - at the end of the axle shaft there is an place to use an Allen Head wrench - if you will turn it counterclockwise (loosen it) the axle shaft comes right out with no hammering (clockwise - or tightening to replace shaft)- also if you have slight pressure on the wheel assembly (i.e. tire resting on floor)while removing the axle it makes it much easier to remove.
  24. Hey everyone, Just took the Venture (83) up to West Va to ride in the mountains for the weekend. We did 1200 miles in three days!!!! It was the first over 100 mile trip that I have had the bike on. I noticed that around 80 MPH I would get a wobble that felt like the bike was flexing in the middle. The other way I could describe it was that feeling when you hit a rut in the road. Letting off the throttle would bring it back into control. I also noticed that it would do it on the mountain switchbacks around 65 MPH. I checked the front axel, brace and tire pressure (40 psi). I checked the rear axel, swingarm, shock pressue (35psi) and tire pressure (40 psi). Ichanged the dampining adjuster to "2". Now it seemed to get more tolerable after all this. I have not checked the front shock air pressure due to the fact that the line is still hooked up to the Class compressor. The rear line has been removed and fitted with a shrader valve. Could the lack of air in the front forks cause this? If so what should the pressure be in the front and rear shocks? Sorry about the long post. Thanks Ron B
  25. Drive shaft maint. On 1st Gen Here is a good article that was written by Mr. Fred Vogt. Fred published a lot of this type articles for the MTA's Motorcycle Roads Magazine. This service should be completed every tire change or 10,000 miles (16,000k) or at least every two years; but in most cases it isn't done because we don't always have a dealer replace our tires and/or we don't tell him to do the work. So if you just bought the bike or you are not sure it has been done, it would be a good time to think about servicing the rear wheel of your Venture. The procedure is fairly simple to do on bikes without a trailer hitch and only a little harder if your bike has one. Remove the rear bags, right muffler, rear brake caliper and deflate the tire; then remove the rear wheel. If your Venture is a 1983, 84, or 85 you will need to remove the rear drive or differential and remove the drive shaft. Clean the drive shaft and coupling, then grease both ends before putting it back in (note: make sure that the shaft goes back into the u-joint. If you are not sure, remove the spring on the boot covering the u-joint and check it. Next clean the spline or gear on the rear drive and grease it with a good quality grease, personally I use a medium Moly based grease. Now find a couple of 2" x 4" and place the rear wheel spline side up on the boards. When you clean the hub and splines off you will see the spring clip or circlip that holds the hub in place; remove this clip and before you remove the hub mark the possession of the hub so you can replace it in the same holes it came from. Now clean the hub and inspect it for wear then apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip. Check the bearings inside of the wheel and check the bearing movement; if they are rough or worn replace them. Now for the mono shock pivots place a jack under the rear drive to take the strain off of the mono shock then dissemble. Clean and grease all of the pivot points and reassemble (if you have a 90 - 93 or you have had grease fittings installed, just give them a squirt). Before you install the rear wheel take the axle and put it back through the swing arm into the final drive to check the alignment. If you find that it is in a bind you will have to change the wedge shim between the final drive and the swing arm. Check the oil level in the rear drive or replace the oil if it has been 10,000 miles since it was serviced and check the brake pads for wear. You can now reassemble your bike and have another year or two of trouble free riding. Fred J. Vogt, #01037
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