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VR Assistance

  1. I was doing some spring maintenance this past weekend which included changing the spark plugs on my RSV. I took some photos of how I easily installed the spark plugs without worry of cross threading by using a plastic tube to start the threading and hand tightening. I know that I read this tip somewhere (probably here) but thought I would post a photo of it for those who may not know this trick. The handle at the top of tube is a nail punch which made it easy to turn the tube and when the plug was hand tight you could see it slip. Once hand tight simply pull tube off plug and torque to spec. As we all know a photo is worth a 1000 words - right?
  2. So I'm in the process of removing the 16 valve cover bolts and adding washers to stop my couple of small leaks. I'm also replacing the spark plugs as I work in each area... I pop off the spark plug cap to replace the front left plug and I see what looks like a big washer behind it... When I removed it, it was a 1984 quarter. How the heck did a quarter get in that tight area behind the cap...? That just hits me as weird... the plugs looked like they were in for a long time... but it's a 1989...
  3. Could someone let me know if the two rubber plugs at the bottom of the main jet body inside the flote cover need to be tight. I have the carbs of for cleaning and both plugs are loose, not sure if this is ok or not, if not where would i get new ones. Thanks Dave
  4. I have a 94 Saturn SC2 with 175K miles. I'm the second owner since 50K miles. The Saturn has been receiving routine maintenance. In the last week I would feel an occasional electricial miss. Well I got new plugs and wire. It does not have a distributor cap nor a rotor. As I was installing the new plugs and wire this is what I uncovered. I replaced the plug about 30K miles ago but the wires I do not believe ever been replaced. 4 of the 2 wire where it connects to the coil/or whatever end, the wire cap was all croded really bad. The other 2 of the 4 were quite shiny. On the Spark Plug end 3 of the 4 plugs seemed fairly white rather than light tan. Maybe that is normal these days for electronic ignition. The 1 plug was all covered in oil. When I cleaned the oil off the plug looked quite clean where I was expecting it to be black with a lot of crude. Questions 1) What would cause 2 of the 4 wires to be extrememly croded at the coil end ( full of white residue). 2) What would cause the 1 spark plug to be soaked in what looks like fresh oil.
  5. if you have the latest December 2011 MCN. Downtime files has my letter. Seems he does not have a "for sure" answer to my question. I did have an issue with #2 carb, which is now fixed. But that does not explain why all the NGK caps and spark plugs failed. He thought maybe oil got into the caps. FYI- No, that's not it. I truly believe NGK is now making junk(which I have stated before). And think about it. OEM caps are roughly $25-$40, NGK $4. So you get what you pay for in this case. I have a total of 6 or more bad spark plugs from NGK in the last 3 years resistor and non-resistor. Remember the spark plug is simply an extension of the wire connected to the engine's coil for spark to jump in a hostile environment. I NOW have changed the caps back to OEM(10k ohm) and spark plugs to Denso iridiums. Plus all my carbs set up on low speed screws at 2.5 ccw +/- a quarter turn connected to EGA . 13.6:1 at idle. And were not rich when tested on load. ...cheers:)
  6. Can anyone give a quick tutorial on what the codes on spark plugs mean? for my 83 VR (1200) The manual says I need DGK DPR8EA-9 or X24EPR-U9(Nippon Denso) (is Nipon Denso the manufacturer???) The plugs that are in the bike from the PO are NGK R DR8ES-L (which the largest CTC in Canada (Kingston, ON) doesn't stock! so...what do you folks recommend?
  7. I read in another thread, I think started by Monty (Thanks!) about resistor plugs making eh scoot run bad, so, I checked and sure enough... I went to try and get some non resistor plugs, and man what a hassle. The parts guy said no place stocks non resistor type plugs anymore. He was kind enough to call several different places to find a set. So they will be here in the morning. Whew. In the midst of all this, I tried to remove the #4 plug, and it is seized in the head. I learned about this while wrenching cars, so, I can get it out ok, but now I need to find a thread chaser. I was all over town trying to find a 12mm thread chaser, and everyone tried to sell me a tap. After arguing with the 12th guy about the difference between a tap and a thread chaser, I gave up. Does anyone here know where to find a thread chaser for these bikes? Even a brand name or a website would help.
  8. I want to replace the vacuum plugs on the carburetors of my 2000 RSV. I have stared at the carburetor parts fiche for too long and I don't see the plugs. I know, if I can't find them, my local Yamaha Parts person is likely not to be able either. It would behoove me to call them with an exact part number, prior to my visit. I know I can get them at an automotive parts store, but the ones at O'Reilly's look cheap, and they have a smaller outside diameter, so the original clamps are too big. Thanks, dana
  9. 87 Venture. top right of fairing there is a relay. Have a jumper I put in the socket to allow turn signals to work. If I leave it in the battery will go dead. Local dealer absolutely no help. Would like part number or even name of whatever relay plugs in there. Also, ignition switch sticking and headlamp sometimes will not work after starting. Would like to replace that as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  10. At 25,000 miles I bought new plugs for my 04 RSV, put them in the bike and went on about my way, ofcourse the bike did not seem to run any better. Well last weekend me and Deanna my daughter were going to ride to St Simons on Sat. so friday night with 31000 miles on the RSV I took the plugs out of the truck and actually put them in the motor. Bike ran much better then. We also found the right frount plug wire was not push down on the plug all the way You know these thing run pretty good on 3 cyls. and very smooth on all 4. 46.5 mpg on the trip, running between 65 and 70 mph. On the way back DeAnna's 06 v-star 1100, dropped the frount cyl, came home on the back cyl. wide open 55 mph. found the 1100 v-star have fuel shut-off valve like lawn mower to shut the fuel off to the needle valve in the carb. frount failed.
  11. i think the sea foam is fouling out my plugs. i used the ngk's recommended by the manul. has anyone tried a different plug? in your opinion, which is best?
  12. OK so I did my first work on my 2008 RSV. Oil change and filter. No problem! Spark plugs a diferent story. According to the owners manual and the Service manual easy to do, just pull the plugs, well I could not figure out how to get to the front 2 plugs. Did a search here and I have to remove the gas tank. Also in my owners manual it says I have an Auxiliary DC Jack and terminals. The terminals are right next to the battery, but I cannot find the jack. Anybody? Conclusion: Owners manual kinda sucks, service manual not much better. This site has way better info. By the way, used Purolator Pure one oil filter, and Risolene 4T semi-synthetic 20-50 oil. I am going to have the dealer do my carb sysnch this time because I just dont have time, but the next one I will do a search here and try and do it myself.
  13. Ok, I'm wondering....... I used the NKG DPR8EA plugs for a couple years and wasn't happy with the life span. I changed to the NKG DP8EA plugs a year or so ago. Not much difference in how long they last. I run them at .035 gap and they are consistant with a nice tan burn on all of them. No fouling and gaps are barely off spec. I can clean and regap them and not get a lot of improvement. It's the same story every time. The bike starts and runs great for about 4,500 to 5,000 miles and all of a sudden it gets picky about starting. I mean real picky. Down right bitter about starting. It will always start, but it's a stand off for a while. A quick change of plugs and she's back to touch of the button. Same way every time. I expect more life from a plug than that but I can not find a reason for the the plugs failing at such a regular schedule. None of the obvious stuff anyway. Caps and wires were new two years ago and still test like new. No corrosion, no resistance issues. The battery isn't the problem either. It's full charge and as soon I change the plugs she's like new again. Any suggestions? Mike
  14. I haven't had my Gen 1 all that long and I did not know anything about the spark plug condition. I found a tip sheet that said that the best plug for my bike would be the NGK DPR8EX-9. It was not a big deal to find the plugs and replace the current NGK Iridium DPR8EIX-9 plugs. The Iridium plugs looked pretty good when I removed them. Since I have installed the new plugs I have noticed that the bike doesn't run as well. Cold starting isn't as snappy as it had been and the engine is a little lethargic when rolling off of idle. Outside of that I cant tell much difference. Was the Iridium plug really the better plug? Ray
  15. When I was at the parts house today, I asked for plugs same as the last set. He looked it up useing my phone # on the computer and said,"No problem". When I get home and get my Venture torn down, he has given me plugs with a 7 instead of an 8. (DPR7EA 9)They look the same ,so whats the diff, hotter?,colder? or what. Would it hurt to use them or should I take them back. 50 miles one way. Thanks Richard
  16. Hi Guys, I have had my Venture Royale since 1989. Done all the maint myself...everything. I have been an electronics tech for 30+ years. Last year I replaced spark plugs, spark plug caps with all NGK, along with new 7mm hypolon copper wires. I had always used NGK spark plugs since the begining. In fact I only changed spark plugs every 20k miles or so. They were that good, and my bike tuned that well. This year I have been having "misfire" issues at idle. I finally checked the spark plug caps , wires and spark plugs. 3 spark plug caps measured OPEN(should be 5k ohms) on my digital meter and cleaned all spark plugs...3 spark plugs also open. I use non-resistor type which should read almost zero ohms. I suspect These items are NOT made in Japan or they have changed their construction of these items. These above items only had 3k miles on them. Now I have the OEM parts back in. NGK...Junk I say. Don't get stuck like me.
  17. Hi there only had the venture about a week know, but have been checking through it for faults and doing routine maintenance . Apart from the slight whine from transmission , and the audio not working, oh and the slightly slippy clutch. The bike is awesome and in excellent almost as new condtion and im very very pleased i bought her ! But as ive been cleaning and checking over the bike ive found some wires that dont seem to go anywhere one has two wires with a corroded plug, which is strange as theres no corrosion anywhere on the bike at all. The other two plugs have four wires in one and two wires in the other all the wires appear to be black in colour ??? Ive looked in the manual but cant seem to find them ? Can anyone tell me what they might be for. Cheers Edge [ATTACH]59373[/ATTACH]
  18. Something I've always wondered about. First a little about my riding habits. I have a 99 RSV that I have owned since 2000. I ride on average 13-15K miles per year. Around 90% hiway miles and about 50% 2up. I don't race my bike, but I don't baby her either, I don't mind bumping the rev limiter once in a while, but don't do it every day. Now for my question. Why is it that my spark plugs only last around 10K miles at the most? The bike will run fine at lower to midrange RPMs, but at higher RPMs it feels like a miss or fuel starvation. Change plugs and all is good again. I run the recomended NGK DPRE8-9. I've tried equivalent Bosch but there's no difference. When I change the plugs, they are a nice grey/tan color with no signs of eroding, still gaped to spec (hurts my soul to throw them away). Look as good as new. Why can I get 90-100K on my plugs in the car, and less than 10K on the bike?
  19. OK I am wondering what I did or maybe there isn't really any difference. I changed the plugs today in my 2000 venture and the Clymers manual said they took a NGK DPR7EA-9 When I got the old ones out and the new ones in I was cleaning things up and happened to look at the old plugs, which by the way looked new after 12,000 miles anyway the ones I took out where NGK DPR8EA-9 Anyone know what the difference is? Is one hotter than the other? Just wandering Thanks Gentleman.
  20. Just moved up to 08 Venture from V Star 1300, Like moving from a Chevy to a Cadillac. Just wondered if you need to remove riders seat and gas tank to change spark plugs? If removing tank is it a easy procedure? On oil change any alternative to the expensive Yamalube? Like the Venture, took a while to adjust to the additional weight and winding shaft noise but overall happy. I know we are having a hot summer especially in the midwest but it seems this bike puts lots of heat out by the floorboards compared to other bikes. Thanks for any help and happy trails.
  21. I checked out the other threads on this plug topic and came up with two plugs. The original NGK-DPR8EA-9 (Napa - $2.29 each, I purchased today) and this plug in a IRIDIUM NGK-DPR8EIX-9 (Napa - $10.00 each). Napa did not recommend the Iridium, when I asked if they knew anything about them. Napa parts person said the Iridium have been known to burn holes or pits in the top of the pistons. I was planning on using the original plugs anyway. So far I have figured out that the tank and dog bones has to be removed to get the plugs out. Any further advise and help in any way here is appreciated. James (Fuzzy)
  22. It has come to my notice that some jobs on our much beloved (and very fast) classic Ventures, just are not hard enough already. You 2nd Generation folk may skip the rest of this thread. Your bikes take longer to complete their journeys, so y'all don't have time for the extra work we need to indulge in! So easy are they that folk are feeling the need to invent a few steps not envisioned when the Workshop Manual was written. So let's examine a few common problems: Removing the Spark Plugs .... Indeed it is fortunate that this operation rarely has to be performed because it is next to impossible without first removing the engine. Rarely has it been my misfortune to encounter spark plugs so difficult to remove, if you discount the one right around the back of the motor of my Ford Windstar. Whose idea was a V4 anyway? So .... engine beautifully balanced on that upturned bucket I found in my shop, and the plugs come out in a jiffy. Why didn't Yamaha think of that? Changing the oil .... This one is dumb. Surely you changed it when you had the engine out to remove the spark plugs! No? Well then you need a hoist. Having removed the idiotic piece of plastic hiding the oil filler from all but the most "investigative" of our membership, and having somehow found just the right sized wrench that will get off the filler cap, because it was too easy to put it somewhere ... you know ... reachable, then all you need do now is hoist the bike, spin it over and the oil will run right out. Or you could remove the drain plug. Nah! Too easy. Shimming the Valves .... This one is tricky. The Workshop Manual describes the process, because it's a Workshop Manual, and that is it's reason for being. It's a simple process although even I will admit that "shims and buckets" sounds more like a Harry Potter spell than a mechanical procedure. There is a fiddly, and very expensive tiny bit of metal that needs inserting where no metal should ever be inserted. For God's sake please don't forget to remove it when you are done! Getting hold of one is hard. It involves a PM to Skydoc_17, and a promise to return it. Thanks Earl Much easier to remove the cams, having carefully measured all the gaps. Oops! Where did that chain go? There are reasons to remove cams, but shimming the valves is not a good one unless, of course, there are other reasons why you may want to spend more time in the shop. Removing the rear wheel .... Here we have a situation where the very best in "Shade Tree Mechanics" do actually beat the pants off the manual. Start by removing the front wheel. Yes, you heard right, to remove the rear wheel one first removes the front. I know, it's crazy. Having removed the front wheel, and tied the center stand to prevent it flipping up, you can then lower the bike onto it's fork ends tipping the back end up so high it gets a permanent snow covering. Handy! Rear wheel is now a no brainer. There endeth the lesson. Meet here next week for "How to adjust the drive chain" ps ... Don't get upset, my tongue is firmly attached to the inside of my cheek!
  23. Does anyone have a source for H4 headlight plugs? I have a pair of headlights coming that I want to hook up to the stock Hi/Lo beam switch through a pair of relays. If I can get some male and female H4 plugs and sockets the wiring can be kept reversible back to stock.
  24. I put in new spark plugs ... NGK double checked the gap at .035 ... and now that they are in i have a slight backfire when coming off the throttle ... anyone have any ideas? I can take them all out and check them again but I was very CAREFUL when putting them in so as not to bump them and ruin the gap.
  25. Hey Guys thanks for the help on the bars now I was gonna change plugs just took a quick look got all the side covers off but doesn't seem to be enough clearance is there an easy way:rotf:or a trick to get swap em ? Oh its an 83 Thanks Tom
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