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Showing results for tags 'plug'.
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I have had a slow "weep" of antifreeze for a while in my "99. Just a drop or two over a couple of days. Pulled the cooling fin off the left rear cylinder and found a leaking "special plug" (description from the Yamaha parts breakdown). It appears to be a rubber plug with a steel core that has internal threads. Has anyone had this problem and are there instructions available for removal and installation?
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Stopped by the dealership and saw something that impressed me enough to pass on the info here. Heated vest, chaps and gloves. I tried them on and they will get the job done. Vest and chaps are water proof and some sort of nylon type material. Gloves are leather with fur inside and very comfortable. All three items have individual controls and can be used as a single item or interconnected to each other so that only one plug need to be attached to the battery. Very cool. Prices: Gloves, $139.00, Vest $129.00 and chaps were $149.00. For the women in the crowd who are always cold, put them in a Joe Rocket for First Gear outfit along with these heated goodies and they will be having a heat stroke in the dead of winter.
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Hi, Is there a drain plug for the coolant somewhere on these engines? Or does one have to improvise like on a VW where they tell you to pull a rad hose to act as the drain? Also, I think I need a new O ring for the coolant by pass valve as I have a leak there now. Any suggestions for a non yama solution? Thanks, Brian H. -
I've read a lot about the pros and cons of headsets and still can't decide whether to buy a set or not. Brenda and I have ridden my '06 RSV for almost 2 seasons without them and have gotten along alright but if they could help hear the radio better or for us to talk to each other, I'd buy a set. I currently wear a half helmet and am looking at an open face while Brenda already has an open face model. I've heard some people say that the intercom is noisy because it is always live. I guess I could buy Mic-Mutes for more $$ but is it really worth it? I see on EBay that you can buy stereo headsets for helmets that don't have a Microphone so that you can listen to the audio. These come with an 1/8" stereo jack. You can then buy the adapter that allows you to plug it into the headset plug on the bike. Anyone tried these? I don't want to spend the money on headsets only to find out that they don't work well at highway speeds or that there's other drawbacks. Any feedback (positive or negative) would be appreciated. Thanks; Rod.
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Never, NEVER, work on your scoot when you are mad at the freaking world. I have a ride this weekend and was going to change the oil. Spent over a decade in the USN as a dang knuckle dragger so you'd think I would always know righty-tighty lefty-loosey. Over torqued the drain plug and she's stripped. Now what? Options??
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My intercom plug doesn't allow me to talk through it. I first thought it might be the cable that goes to the helmet, so I switched them around to no avail. I even put a dab of dialectic grease in there thinking maybe a connection wasn't good. Well...a connection isn't good but the grease didn't help. Is there a common fix to this? The plug is quite loose compared to the passenger's plug so I figure something has just moved out of tolerance. Is the plug/wire replaceable? Parts are dealer only? Does this sound like a good time to "sell" the Scala Bluetooth headset idea to my wife? -
How do you remove spark plug wires?
Vance posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
After removing the tank and dogbone, I went to pull up the spark plug cap on a front spark plug. I could pull it part way up before hitting interference from above, but not far enough up to clear the plug. I didn't want to force anything and kink the wire or break the cap, so I stopped there and put it all back together. How do you get the plug wire up far enough on those front plugs to allow access to change the plugs? What's your technique? -
My bike has been doing a lot of backfiring on deceleration but has been running like a deer on the highway. Yesterday I went for a four hour ride and it even started stalling before I got stopped at the lights so I had to keep the revs up just to keep it going. I have not got a clue where to begin but I guess I should be starting with the diaphragms and carb slides. I am also thinking that plug wires and plug caps should be replaced: The plugs are new. Any particular type or brand recommended? I see some on e-bay on a pretty regular basis. Any clues would be helpful and appreciated. I am sure this has been discussed before so a link might be helpful too. I suppose a valve adjustment and carb synch would also be in order. -
I want to be able to plug this Garmin Zumo 550 into my audio plug in on my cassette so I can hear the voice prompts through the speakers or through my headset. Does anyone know if this unit is capable of doing that as I don't think I will be able to hear the voice prompts as the bike is running. Help
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After a great weekend with putting at least 500 miles on the bike and it running great, I dropped a cylinder at lower RPM's today. As I was slowing down to pull into City Hall to pay speeding ticket I got in my wife's Maxima, there was a loud "pop" and a cylinder went dead. It did not sound like an exhaust pop. After I came out and was riding home, I had a definite miss up to about 2,500 RPM's and then it seems like all four are pulling good. After getting off work tonight, I went out in the garage and started the bike and let it run for about 30 seconds at a little above idle. I then cut it off and felt of each exhaust. The right rear was still cold. I put another spark plug on the wire and restarted the bike. It had very good fire. I then pulled the diaphragm and it looked good. I kind of sounds like the pilot jet may be clogged on that carb, but I don't know where the pop came from unless it was thru one of the carbs. I am going to take a look at that plug and may pull the carbs to look at that one. I am open for suggestions if anyone has any. Thanks, RandyA
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I have the fairing apart and am looking for the plug in for the CD player. There are plugs color coded with red, white, blue, yellow, and gray. What is the plug for the CD player? Or is it somewhere else? Or has this one had a CD player installed and still has the wire and it hasn't been removed?
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I'm wiring my 2003 venture for a trailer plug. I'm using a Hoppy #48915 which is supposed to convert independant signal/brake light, to the common combined system. I ran 4 relay's so I didn't stress the system. The problem is, all I get on the plug is tail lights, no signals or brakes. I tracked all five wires back, and even right before they go into the converter they all work fine. On the other side of the coverter/plug, of the 4 wires, only the tail light has power. Did I get a bad converter? I've read where people have used Hoppy #48845, and I don't see anything different with what I have other than the converter is in the plug and not inline. Where an I going wrong:confused24:? Thanks Steve
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I was going to order some new OEM spark plug caps for around $110.00. My dealer showed me some NGK caps that are hard plastic and only cost $5.00 each. Using fuzzy math, I could replace these 5 times for the price of the OEMs. Has anyone actually used these caps and found them good or bad? Using the old adage, "you get what you pay for" I am a little leary. Thanks in advance!
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I have a 1990 VR that I was getting ready for a nice road trip. Turned on the key and started checking all lights, turn signals, horn, etc. Everything functioned as it should until I tried the hazard lights. They always have functioned just fine in the past. Now, this time, they are "dead". Turn signals work just fine, front and back, both sides, but hazard lights won't come on at all. Anyone have an idea where to look to make repair ? I looked for a broken wire or loose plug in that maze behind the headlight. I checked the hazard light plug and switch. Where is the "flasher" located. Everything looks fine. HELP !!!! Thanks. Red Baron
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After owning my '85 for about two years, I finally have it on the road (put on about 3000k) and it seems to run fine, but I don't have anything to compare the performance to as this is my first bike. Power wize I don't seem to have a problem overtaking a friend's '04 V star 1100. I do seem to have a weak #1 cyclinder because if I take off the spark plug wire at idle, there is no RPM change. I know it fires because if that is the only plug wire attached the cyclinder does fire. I did a compression test and it came in at just 130 (after 10 cranks) and up to 150 with some oil. The others seem to be at 150 -160 after only a few cranks. I checked valve clearance and they are right on. I'm thinking the rings are the problem. I read somewhere on this forum about using Sea Foam in the oil for sticky rings. Does this work? I think the bike sat for a number of years so it could be the problem. Is there any suggestions to trying this before I pull it apart?
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Conversion to Single Antenna Thanks to Steve Bumgardner (Bummer) While removing the gas tank I managed to lean in too far and snap the center load on the CB antenna. Guess I should have put it up while I was working on the bike. Live and learn. Problems: The stock antenna is $140 or so, and it's obviously not very stout. The twin antenna system reduces the efficiency of the CB antenna. Probably not enough to worry about, but it's there if you like to sweat that sort of thing. Solution: One antenna serving both radios. Note: Some splitters reduce output power. Testing indicates that the Firestik splitter does not reduce final output power to the antenna. 4 watts in, 4 watts out. Many thanks to Marshall Gammon for his site http://bludolphintravel.com/gmg/marshallmod.htm It was a wonderful starting point. Preparation: Read the manual with the splitter. Read and understand the manual that came with your SWR meter. Check out the help files on the Firestik site http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs.htm If you've never worked with coax you should probably read http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/Coax_Procg.htm for tips. Parts: 1 Firestik Firefly 3 foot CB antenna $18.00 http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_97&products_id=897 1 300-340 stud mount base $5.00 http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=251 1 folding mount $15.00 – This part is way too sloppy but it works if you require a folder. http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?cPath=29_112&products_id=262 1 90 degree PL-259 adapter $5.00 http://www.walcottcb.com/360359-coax-right-angle-adapter-p-233.html 1 CB FM splitter $18.00 http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=221 1 PL-259 male plug $2.50 1 PL-259 reducer model UG176 $.50 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103401 1 Motorola female $1.50 2 Motorola male $2.00 Solder and shrink tubing Installation: The CB lives in a plastic box under the trunk. The lid is held in place with two rubber straps. This mod assumes access to the CB by removal of the trunk as needed. (Remove six screws in the bottom of the trunk, then close the trunk and carefully rotate the rear up and forward. There's wiring up front. I used the 'balance with forehead' technique to hold it up whenever I needed to get to the CB. The red spot's almost gone. Be careful. It's way too easy to put a nasty scratch in the trunk while you're doing this. Sigh.) Remove and do as you will with the old antenna. Mine may eventually grow up to be a flag mast. Remove and retain the wire between the antenna and the CB. Place the stud mount base on the antenna support with the nylon washer at the top. If you are using one place the folding mount in the stud mount, with the fold pointed front/back. Screw the antenna into this. Don't get carried away with the antenna itself. All else should be tight. Screw the 90 adapter into the bottom and aim it toward the radio. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image002.jpg Antenna base. I had to use a file and cut two notches in the stud base. Most PL-259 females have notches all around so that the locking points on the male can keep it from rotating while maintaining good contact. This one had none. A half dozen swipes with an edge of a triangular file did the job. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image004.jpg The notch Use the old wire to measure where to cut the CB Antenna Out wire on the splitter. Solder a PL-259 male plug on the wire you cut off. This is your new antenna wire. Put a male motorola plug on the CB Antenna Out wire of the splitter. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image006.jpg Wiring details. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image008.jpg Finished wiring – I didn't shorten the FM antenna wire the first time. It doesn't have to be, but it makes the box a bit crowded. Screw your new antenna wire into the 90 at the base of the antenna. Test for continuity and shorts. The tip of the antenna should have continuity with the center of the CB antenna wire. It should not have continuity with the outside of the plug. The CB antenna wire shield (outside of plug) should have continuity with the antenna support that came with the bike. Screw the end of the antenna wire into the splitter's Antenna In plug. Route this wire through the hole the old antenna wire went through. Plug the CB out wire into the CB box (gray plug). Remove the FM antenna, base and all. Cut the end off of the FM wire and solder the female Motorola plug on. The core goes to the center of the plug. The shielding goes to the body of the plug. Use some shrink wrap to cover the whole thing. Cut a notch in the side of the plastic box and route the FM antenna wire with the new plug into the box. I made a notch in the lip of the top and a matching one in the slot of the box. I kept this a tight fit to keep water out. Plug the splitter's FM Out lead into the FM antenna wire, fold it up into the box beside the CB. Place the splitter under the wires coming into the box on the left. Massage all the wiring to fit. Close it up. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image010.jpg In the box. Now that everything fits, it's time to set the Standing Wave. THIS MUST BE DONE or you'll toast your CB output transistor. Remove the plug from Antenna In on the splitter. Remove the plug between the splitter and the CB. Add a male PL-259 to male motorola patch cord to the antenna input wire (gray plug). Let the patch cord and the antenna wire dangle outside the box. Put the trunk back in place. Plug the antenna wire into Antenna on the SWR meter. Plug the wire from the radio into Radio on the SWR meter. Set the standing wave as per meter instructions. I got a meter at the Rat Shack. I got a http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=934 and a http://www.walcottcb.com/12mfpl-pl259-to-motorola-female-12-long-p-198.html to connect the meter to the antenna system. I had to screw the adjuster on the antenna most of the way in. After some tinkering with the tip I got a 1.3 on 20 and just under 1.7 on 1 and 40. Once the antenna SWR is set you have to tune the splitter. Connect the antenna to Antenna In on the splitter. Connect a male motorola to male PL-259 patch cord to CB Out on the splitter. Connect these to your meter and check SWR. You'll have to turn the CB adjusting screw on the splitter to bring the SWR back down to where it was when you set the antenna. Mine is turned all the way down. You can now set the AM as per splitter instructions. When the antenna and splitter are both set disconnect the meter and the patch cord. Put the antenna wire back on Antenna In and the CB out wire into the gray socket. Pack everything back into the box, put the lid on, and bolt the trunk back in place. Breaker, breaker, two nine. End result: Single antenna system for under $75.
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I saw 2 ventures the other day and they both had a cable coming up from the front of the tank over the tank with an L-shaped piece of plastic that stuck under the tank bib holding the cable in place. I presume this was used to plug something in for power. Is this a factory piece or aftermarket and where can I get something like this? Thanks Ya'll Bob http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/5/5_2_110.gif http://www.smileycentral.com/sig.jsp?pc=ZSzeb096&pp=ZNxmk393BBUS
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I have a set of six coils off a Nissan Maxima engine that have the coils right on top of the sparkplug boot. I was wondering that if they would fit on top of the plugs on my bike, could I bypass the coils I have and run the respective wire that goes to the coil to the spark plug coil. I believe they only require a hot wire and a ground wire. Has anyone done this? I don't see why it would not work if the room in the plug area is suffient. Any comments? RandyA
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The holes in the ears that hang down just beneath the frame. Just behind the oil plug and in front of the little shelf that the smog canister, for the California models, gets bolted to. The ones that the pin, that holds Carbon One's Lift adapter adapter to the bike, goes through. Anyone know what they were originally designed for. One of mine has a plug clipped into it to fill the hole so I wondered if they were actually designed for some purpose or if they may have been used at the factory and that's it. Inquiring minds want to know.
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I am looking for a microphone that I can switch easily between helmets. I don't need a headset as I listen through the external speakers. I ride Tailgunner and am constantly talking to the Road Captain so a handheld model won't work. I have an older J&M set that works fine, but it is a hassle to move around and the boom mic is giant. Does anyone know of a throat microphone available that will plug into my 2nd Gen's CB? I would also consider a compact mini-boom that I attach - as long as I don't have to mess with the ear phones. Any help is appreciated.
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I want to put satelite radio on My Gen 2 Venture. Which one do you recommend? I want to wire it right in and want a small reciever. How do you plug it in. I really dont want to plug it in to the Aux port. i find with my Ipod its a pain in the butt. Is there a better way?
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Does anyone have info on replacing the plug wires on a first gen? Can I go to resister wires and regular caps, and do I need 7, 8, or 8.5mm wires? I seem to remember a good tech article here BC, but can't find anything now. Gonna do a long trip in Sept and need to fix up the bike.
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At the Large White Plug, with the 3 #14 wires comeing from the Alternator: Do the following: Measure the AC voltage on each wire. You can stick the meter probs into the end of the White Plug. ( located just behind left rear cylinder, White connector, with 3 white wires thru it ) With Engine running, you should Read 9 to 15 volts AC, ( thats AC, not DC ) on each wire. If the voltage on " one" wire is substantially , Lower then the other two, then your Alternator is failing. This is a much better way to check it then useing the Resistance reading method given in the Service Manual.
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