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Showing results for tags 'oil'.
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I have a Rivco spin on oil adapter for my Mk1. What I'm missing is the NUT that holds it on the bike. Does anyone know the size or better yet does anyone have one they would be willing to part with? I called Rivco and the whole thing is discontinued and they could not or would not help me at all..
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OK, I need confirmation on this from our friends up in Central Canada !! Yesterday, I was at a Ham Radio Convention, in SeaSide, Oregon. ( a yearly event ) I ran into a fellow from Calgary Canada ( An older fellow, as myself ). The discussion went to Gas Price's !!! ( much higher in Canada, he tells me ) My point, here, he say's a personnel friend of his works for one of the companies extracting Crude Oil, in the Oil sands area up there. ( North of Montana ) This fellow told him that the Cost of extracting the Crude from the Shale Sands, up there is about $25.00 a barrel, when the stuff is ready for shipping to Refineries. (( Of course there is no pipe line, so they send the stuff to China )) So, can any of our Canadian Friends, here confirm what this fellow told me. Being a fellow Ham Radio Operator, I tend to believe him. But, you never know, so I'm looking for any confirmation here, as to the cost of crude oil from Centeral Canada ??:whistling:
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I will be changing oil before I leave for Las Vegas from Seattle. What wt oil would be recommended for that area in Late June. I'm Guessing 20/40 or 20/50 wt?
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Fighting another that don't want to go. I don't change this thing with every filter but was this time and can't get it to lay down in grove as it should. Not the 1st time!! What do the rest of you stick them on there with. Don't really want to see oil on my new floor. I leave enough spots on Skid's.
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I just took my bike out of storage and noticed I have an oil leak from the top rear cylinders. I am planning on getting a valve adjustment in the near future if I can get an appointment. Is there anything I can do now to stop it or just leave it till they do the valves? Thanks Much Keith
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Does anyone know a good shop that can work on my bike. I need a tire changed and an oil change before returning to California. I have an 83 Venture. thanks Al -
I have a 1986 Venture that I purchased last fall. About two weeks after purchasing the bike I pulled a boneheaded mistake by driving off of what I thought was about a 5" curb (that turned out to be more like 8" tall) at a very slow rate of speed and basically dropped the lower crankcase ontop of the concrete curb. I noticed a pretty significant oil leak under the bike when I got home. At first I thought I had cracked the oil filter cover but after hauling it to the local Yamaha dealer to have it checked out it turns out that the crankcase itself was "bent". They gave me two options...turn it in to insurance as totaled (I don't have full coverage) or "JB weld" the oil cover on semi permanently until the next oil change at 10 or 12,000 miles. The "JB weld" idea worked pretty good last fall with just a few minor drips but this spring it seems to be getting much worse. Any suggestions on what else I can try? -
If you would like to response please read my posting throughly to understand each fact and statement. I'm very interested in your expert opinions and experiences. I've now had my progressive for about 500 miles and I really like them in the twisties and on nice smooth roads. However the slight bumps are beginning to annoy me. And I have nothing to say good about bigger bumps. These were purchased New from Sky_Doc_17 for a 91 VR. The old oil were drained for over 24 hours out the drain plug. I put the tight coils in first. I have no spacer except the OEM washer to center the springs in the forks to prevent the springs from rubbing against the inner forks. I have Zero front air pressure. I'm weigh in at about 175 lbs. The forks were completely compressed using a floor jack. I experiented from 5.5 inches of oil to 9.5 inches of oil from the top of the forks. Just a very slight improvement if any at the current 9.5 inches. I was told that even at 10 inches that is in all respect safe for all internal fork and spring components. It was recommendated 20 wt. I was also told that the oil wt does not have any relationship to when the forks are compressed but only on the decompression or expanding of the forks. The 20 wt slows the decompression action a bit more than the 15 wt and that difference are felt in high speed racing conditions when every little difference counts. So the 20 wt should really be a more smoother ride. So if you use an oil with less than 20 wt, I'd appreciate your response only if you have actually experimented with different weight fork oil. Otherwise to say that you prefer the 10 or 15 wt oil and have only used that wt oil doesn't help with the evaluation. I've read just about all the threads on progressive springs and seem like most riders weighing in at 250 plus like the springs all around performance. Now when my wife and I ride we weigh in at about 305 lbs and I really feel very little difference and that maybe becase the additional weight is mostly on the rear shocks. I've read one posting that it took a couple of 1000 miles to break in the springs. Is there something that I may have left out? If not then is there anything else I can do, besides gain about 100 PLus lbs for my 5' 8" stature? Oh one more item. I have Sky_Doc_17 replacement cover for removing the anti dive unit. Oh another item. I did try different tire pressure frmo 35 lbs to 42 lbs. Not much difference. I prefer to use manfacture recommended tire pressure than running it lower. -
I have picked up a 1983 venture for a parts bike but it is in good condition so i am going to get it running. First thing i did was clean the carborators and it ran pretty good, took it for a short ride only to find out i could not shift into 4th or 5th, after checking a few things and reading in the forums i took apart the clutch only to find a pin missing there is only 5 pins with one tab bent over and the pin is nowhere to be found. I have removed the oil pan only to find no pin there either. Could someone tell me where i can get the updated one that has a soild cover to hold the pins in. I will also need a pan gasket and a pin. Does anyone have any idea where the pin went. Not sure if that is why the other owner sold as parts bike. Have looked on top of oil pump and around that area. Any help would be great. Thanks Dave -
Every so often the oil warning (bottom left) symbol comes on. It stays on for a while, then goes off. Sometimes it does it a couple of times in a row, then goes off. No particular pattern. There is plenty of oil in the sight window. I do know how to check it. Oil can be new or old. Driving fast or slow. Short haul or long haul. Level or hill. Once it goes off I may not see it again for weeks. The rest of my computer is working. I have two theories based on the best source - near total ignorance. Some kind of electrical connection issue working up on me, or an actual issue with the sensor/sendor. My understanding is this isn't an oil pressure sensor, but something else. What else I don't know. It works like my toilet bowl for all I know. Any clues or suggestions you can send my way much appreciated. Thanks Tom -
When setting still the speedometer reading jumps around and doesnt work going down the road cleaned up contacts but it was coverd with fork oil, Shorted out would be my guess, Any other ideas. Thanks Orlin
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My good friend, Cowboy, has a 2001 Yamaha 1600. He is starting to have some slippage in the clutch. I went on a search on the internet and found the Service Manual for his bike as well as a great write up on changing out the clutch springs, clutch disk and oil pump gear. (On some of the older 1600’s there was a weakness in the oil pump gear and many folks swapped them out when they did the clutch springs.) My friend looked at everything I sent him, including a website to get the parts he would need. He traded emails with the parts manufacturer with some technical questions he had and the direction it took cracked me up so much I just had to share it with you. I have edited out non- pertinent stuff to shorten it and redacted company names to protect the guilty. Here is the email thread. Enjoy: The Cast: Cowboy – My friend Max - President/Product Design AKRefugee - Me COWBOY: Hi Max, I sent a email yesterday about replacing the oil pump gear at the same time. Did you ask your fiend what he recommends? Hollerback Yah'll, Cowboy MAX: This is all I could get: “Some earlier years had a weak oil pump shaft that could be upgraded.” COWBOY: Max, Thank you very much for your quick response I'm going to do more research about that pump shaft. I've got the feeling that I'm going to replace that while I'm in there to do it right. Meanwhile if someone tells you of a recommended replacement pump shaft, manufacturer and part number, kindly pass it along to me. That would be much appreciated. Meanwhile I will be calling to do business with you within the next 3 weeks. You will be hearing from me. I'm impressed with your timeliness. Till then, Happy Trails, Cowboy MAX: My brother is being a little thick headed…He does that If I get more I will forward it along. Meanwhile YES replace it. COWBOY: FYI, The engine oil pump drive shaft was not part of the transmission recall for 2001 Roadstars. There is superseded part # on this component meaning that Yamaha engineers did improvements to this part. I got this Information from a very reputable service shop manager and parts manager (redacted), (Service is Joe, and Parts is Steve). This is a bonafide Yamaha Retailer. So if anybody calls about all Roadstars up to 2001 (V1600's) and asks about this oil pump shaft it is recommended by many of the Yamaha Roadstar forums. The part costs $68.97 COWBOY: Max, Can you look into this because I need an answer from you or your engineers on this subject that has just come to my attention. Steve at (redacted) said something about clutch "cork" degradation as the clutches wear vs. Kevlar degradation. He said the stock clutches as they wear the cork sludge doesn't hurt the tranny but that the Kevlar degradation or sludge does. What's the skinny on this? Please reply. THIS IS WHERE THE FUN BEGINS MAX: My answer is simple- Stop listening to those nitwits COWBOY: I hear you but I would like a technical answer to this. I know that they're trying to steer me away from your product. I am convinced that yours is a far superior product as far as performance is concerned but the affect on the wearability on the tranny in the long run is a concern to me as a consumer as well. I was a Senior Product Designer for 14 years in the defense industry so I do have a technical background. Please look into this for me. A plausible explanation of why this is not true is all I ask for. Thanks Cowboy MAX: It’s a false negative. It is simply NOT true! o The moon is made of cheese. o “Not its not!” (max) o How do you know you have never been there….! COWBOY: Max, Please respond technically. I respect you, please respect my request. At this point my friend sent it to me saying you won’t believe this you have to read this. COWBOY: AKRefugee. I'm sending you this discourse that I had with the president of (redacted). Can you believe his responses ! Read Below. Unbelievable !!!!! AKRefugee: Wow, that was an "interesting" response. One of those "trust me I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express" moments. I will check my sources and see what they have to say. My gut feeling thought is that the Yammi guy really doesn't know s**t from shinola on the subject so he pulled something out of his a** that he heard someone else say one time. Remember this is the same shop that sent me out the door with rear brake pads that were so worn that they could have flipped in the caliper and killed me so I am a bit leery of their shops folks anyway. As far as I know, oil degradation is what causes sludge and that has nothing to do with the material being lubricated, only the operating temps and outside contaminants, but remember I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night so I might be pulling something out of my butt as well ;-). I have asked my friend to keep me updated on any additional responses and will post them here if he sends me anymore of this conversation. I just hope that the future responses as as funny as these last ones,
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As I get into restoring my 84 VR, it has been recommended that I replace all the fluids. So, which ones do you recommend and where have you found is the best place to get them? Specifically thinking: oil, final gear, coolant, etc. Again, an really new and trying to get up to speed as quick as possible. Thanks, Mark
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I have just bought an 08 with 2000 miles.....have been reading threads about synthetics....still confused...what viscosity should be used? i live in Ontario Can which has temps all over the map last week 70 deg this week 40's.....yamah sells semi synth.and afull synth.....have always used yamalube 20w40/50 in 04 vstar for 76000 kms no problems .....so with this its a decision after this has been broken in...I have a friend with 92 goldwing he uses shell diesel oil from wallyworld.... any thoughts please
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]I am in the process of swapping out the tranny of my 83 and transplanting a tranny from an 86. Now back in 2005 after the very first Vogel, I had to replace the pinion gear in it. We pulled it out, dropped the oil pan to make sure there wasnt too much debris left in the engine. Its been 7 years and I have been riding around until about a year ago and the tranny finally quit shifting and I had to lay it up for this repair. We finally got it opened up this weekend and once we did we were in for quite a surprise to find quite a bit of metal bits, not just shavings but nice size chunks of the pinion gear, we fished it out with a magnet and got all of it out. We first realized what we were in for when I pulled the oil pump out and quite a few bits of metal fell out of it and when I shook it you could hear it rattling around inside of it. Take a look at the pinion and all the metal we took out 7 years later!!! If you take a look at picture #2 you will notice that the threaded part is broken off, this is what precipitated the destruction of the pinion........and when we pulled it all apart, the rest looked fine with the exception of the star wheel that rachets the shift, one of the pins was loose, becasue the tab that was supposed to hold it in place was bent and the pin was slipping out. I believe that is where my main problem was. [ATTACH]66290[/ATTACH][ATTACH]66291[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]66292[/ATTACH][ATTACH]66293[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]66294[/ATTACH]
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Ok, I got draggd into a conversation today about something I haven't been involved with for years. I don't even own a weed wacker or a chain saw let alone a dirt bike these days so I wasn't much help to the coworker. He recently bought a used, new to him Yamaha dirt bike from a dealer. He is having a ball with it but after talking to the service people at the dealer he came looking for me. Ya know, because I ride a bike. But he had been talking to them about 2 cycle oil for the bike. They told him he could ONLY use Yamaha or Polaris oil in the bike because ANYTHING else would gum up the motor. Now with that statement alone I would call BS by the dealer. From my experience, and I worked for several years in the lawn mower repair shops when I was younger find that info incorrect. As long as he uses the proper ratio for oil/fuel he should be fine. I gave him the only advice I gave any customer. Correct ratio and run the fuel empty before storing or changing oil types or brands. But I told him I'd ask around. I know some guys. Comments? Mike
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Well, I installed a new shock on the back of my 1st gen. That went well. I also decided to grease the splines on the drive shaft while I was there, now low and behold I have an oil leak at the rubber boot which according to the parts diagram looks like the drive shaft seal right before the u-joint. Anybody have any insight on the replacement of that seal? Also, my twinkie has started leaking. I'm sure a lot of curse words (Even some I may have to make up) will be used. I also have a little leak by the clutch slave cylinder or stator cover, not 100% sure yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
I read that this filter WIX 51358 is not recommend for our bikes and I slap one on mine when the part cross reference it.. I found out about this after the fact Now do I swap filters now or wait till next oil change.
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ok before I ask I already feel really stupid..... When checking the engine oil onmy 06 thru the little sight window should the oil level be between the lines when it is leaning on the stand or when the bike is straight up and down ? I am going to assume until one of you guys enlighten me that it is while on the stand...since you can't hold the darn thing up whilst standing on your head to see the window hidden behind the frame tube. Thanks for the help....more dumb questions to come. Kenny
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Good afternoon everyone. Went for a little ride today and noticed my kickstand had a bit of oil on it when I stopped. For whatever reason, when I first seen it I didn't think much of it. (Not sure why it didn't register right away.) Anyway, when I came back to the bike there was a couple of drips under the overflow hoses pictured here. It seems the leak was coming from the second hose from the left. I checked my oil and it seemed to be OK. I had the same issue happen last summer - only one time. It was fine after that. This is the first time this year it's happened. There's been no oil change done recently, however it's just about due. The only time it happened last year it was about 1000 miles into the most recent oil change. Then nothing for a long time. Now again. I guess I don't understand what's causing it. Also, can anyone tell me what each of those hoses is the overflow for. I'm assuming gas, oil, antifreeze, and ???. I'm not sure which is which - other than that second one, based on the oil coming from it. Any assistance would be great.
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I have a 2008 RSV and I am very frustrated with it right now. It has a little over 20,000 miles on it and this is my third set of tires. I have used Metzler 880's twice and now I am using Elite III's. After my tires get a few miles on them I get a front end wobble at low speeds. I talked to the local Yamaha dealer. After the mechanic showed me the cupping I put on new tires, front and back. Both times with the Metzler's the front tires were cupped. Each time I put on a new set it quit for a little while. It has started now with the Elite III's and they probably don't have 2000 miles on them and there is no sign of wear at all. With the Elite III's I used Nitrogen and balanced them with beads. I think the Nitrogen has really helped with the wear and I was hoping the beads would help with the wobbling. So far nothing seems to help. I have read about tightening the front bearing but that doesn't make sense to me if new tires fix the problem for a little while. I really don't know what to do. The other problem is a nagging oil leak coming from the seal around the clutch shaft behind the master cylinder. I have had the seal replaced twice and it still leaks. The shaft feels smooth as it can be, no burrs at all. The second time the seal was replace liquid seal was put around the opening where the seal goes in case there might be a casting problem. But it is still leaking oil!!!!!! It is slower that what it was but I DON'T LIKE LEAKS and I don't think this bike should be leaking oil with this few of miles on it. Has anyone had either of these problems with their bike and what is the cure? I told my dealer that I have 2 more years of warranty left on this bike and it will be back for the next two years if this oil leak isn't fixed. But I am really running out of patience. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Damon Cates
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I have been working on the PCW clutch upgrade on my 2006 RSV with 42,000 miles. I road to work, then Iron Pony after work to pick up oil filter and oil. Bike has been running great minus the slipping clutch. I honestly dont know if my clutch upgrade worked or not because after I had put everything back together I turn the key to on and before I could hit the starter button the bike fired up on its own. NEVER done that before. I decided to take the battery cables off for a few minutes. Put them back on turned the key to one and the damn thing fires on its own again. The entire time the starter motor is running. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
Due to my work schedule I can never seem to get off work to attend "maintenace days", therefore this past weekend I relied on the forum and some general mechanical "know how" to do it myself. Most of the maintenance items are no big deal for most of you but a couple of things I completed was a personal accomplishment for me. The list of things completed: New tires front and back (E3's) mounted and balanced, brakes checked, engine oil and filter changed, rear hub and gears greased and oil changed. I would like to check my carbs and sync them and check/lub the steering head if need but goes beyond my comfort zone. Hopefully I can find some members close to central Arkansas that can help me with these things. I know I saved some $'s and I now feel less dependant on a dealer. Thanks to all who have posted pictures and descriptions it has been a HUGE HELP !!!!!!!!!!!
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For those who have installed Progressive Springs in their MKII, I have a few questions. I need to readjust my spacer length and so I'd like to come as close as I can to the perfect desired ride. I love what the progressive does to the handeling of my MKII, but mine is way too stiff. I would like to use a spacer size that would be the most appropiate for my 170 lbs(birthday suit). I rarely ride double and my storage trunks are pretty much empty. I would allow 10 to 15 lbs of stuff all together in my storage trunks. No Gas Tank Bag. I'm usually a one day rider so I travel pretty light. What length spacer do you use? What wt fork oil What length of non oil space did you leave after compressing your forks. Whats your weight? Hows soft and smooth is your ride? Would you like to use a different length spacer, or oil wt and why?
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Okay.. as most know I just finished the overhaul of my front forks including the installation of Progressives ( man, are they worth it !!) . I had a question about the fork oil and from what I was told there was 2 ways to determine the "amount" of oil. First was the amount of 409cc's or 13 1/2 oz. The second, was 5 1/2 -inches from the top. The 5 1/2 inches was what most threads stated and what the instructions stated. That is what I installed the oil to. It was way more than 409cc's. Now, yesterday we installed Progressives in my friend's 83. We measured and installed 409cc's in each tube. They were not even, even close to even. So we pumped the lowers and then remeasured and the levels were even but not to 5 1/2 inches, more like 6 1/2+ inches below the top. Now, we read the manual, the threads, the Progressive instructions, and all though they all state to "pump the lowers to extract the old fluid, none state to pump the air out to measure the new fluid. It was obvious that when we installed his oil, air bubbles must have affected the 5 1/2 inch reading and leveled it out after pumping the air out. None of the info we could read, stated what the level from the top should be once they are "pumped" For example, if you just wanted to check you levels of existing oil, to what level should the oil be at from the top ?? It seems that there should be a level statement as to before pumping and after. I had the same issue of non level measurements when I poured in my oil before pumping the lowers. It probably took about 15 + oz to level mine out to 5 1/2 inches below. We left his at 6 1/2 inches below with the original 409cc's. So what am I missing here ?
